 Early 19th centurypañuelo.Metropolitan Museum of Art | |
| Type | Kerchief, shawl |
|---|---|
| Material | Piña fiber |
| Place of origin | Philippines |
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Thepañuelo oralampay is aFilipino lace-like embroidered neck scarf or shawl worn around the shoulders over thecamisa (blouse). They were square-shaped and were folded in half into a triangle when worn.Pañuelos are the direct predecessors of theManila shawl. The Spanish wordpañuelo (frompaño +-uelo) means kerchief, scarf, and handkerchief.
Pañuelos were traditionally made from sheer lace-likenipis textiles woven fromabaca fiber. They were square-shaped and were folded in half into a triangle when worn around the shoulders. They commonly featured floral embroidery (using techniques likecalado,sombrado, anddeshilado). In addition to the nativeabacá fiber, they were also made frompiña fiber, acquired frompineapples introduced by the Spanish. They also featured borders oflace or knottedfringes, a Spanish element which itself was acquired from theMoors.[1][2][3]
They were an integral and distinctive part of the traditionalbaro't saya ensemble of Filipino commoners and thetraje de mestiza ensemble of aristocratic Filipino women (along with thetapis and theabaniko fans), as they brought modesty to the relatively low neckline of the traditionalcamisa shirts. They were worn in the 18th and 19th centuries but are rarely used today in modern versions of theterno dress.[1][2][3]
Pañuelos were derived from traditional shawls in thepre-colonial Philippines known asalampay; head and neck coverings among pre-colonialTagalog women. These were carried over into theSpanish colonial period and acquired European design motifs. They were also luxury goods exported via theManila galleons toNueva España andEurope; sometimes as gifts to royalty.[1][2]
Pañuelos were copied byChinese traders during the 18th and 19th centuries, and sold to the Philippines, Spain, and other Spanish colonies. These copies were made from silk with Chinese motif embroidery. They became immensely popular in the Philippines and were quickly adopted into the local fashions of upper classLuzon women. Similarly, they became widely sought-after luxury exports soon after they reached the Americas, where they became known as themantón de Manila.[4][5][6] They are believed to have influenced later designs of therebozo ofLatin America.[7]
Since the 1930s,pañuelos have been part of the modernizedtraje de mestiza. In modern days,pañuelo can still be seen worn with the modernterno; especially on older women.Pañuelo oralampay has also been an integral part ofIglesia ni Cristo church uniforms worn by deaconesses in all locale congregations in the Philippines. This whiteterno, called saya in Filipino, resembles its early deaconess uniforms worn during the 1930s. They can be decorated with embroidery or have simple designs.
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