TheSquaxin and otherCoast Salish peoples inhabited the southern Puget Sound region prior to the arrival of European and American settlers in the 19th century. TheTreaty of Medicine Creek was signed in 1854 and followed by the Treaty of Olympia in 1856; these two treaties forced the Squaxin to relocate to anIndian reservation. Olympia was declared the capital of theWashington Territory in 1853 and incorporated as a town on January 28, 1859. It became a city in 1882.
Aside from its role in the state government, Olympia is also recognized as a countercultural hub in the Pacific Northwest. The city'smusic scene gained prominence in the 1990s for its role in the emergence ofpunk rock movements such asriot grrrl andgrunge. Olympia is also home toThe Evergreen State College, a public liberal arts institution known for its non-traditional curriculum.Intercity Transit provides fare-free bus service throughout the Olympia area, which has high per-capita use of public transportation relative to other cities of its size.
The site of Olympia had been home toLushootseed-speaking peoples known as the Steh-Chass (or Stehchass, later part of the post-treaty Squaxin Island Tribe) for thousands of years. Other Native Americans regularly visited the head of Budd Inlet and the Steh-Chass, including the other ancestor tribes of theSquaxin, as well as theNisqually,Puyallup,Chehalis,Suquamish, andDuwamish. The first recorded Europeans came to Olympia in 1792.Peter Puget and a crew from the BritishVancouver Expedition are said to have explored the site, but neither recorded any encounters with the resident Indigenous population. In 1846,Edmund Sylvester andLevi Lathrop Smith jointly claimed the land that is now downtown Olympia. In 1851, the U.S. Congress established the Customs District of Puget Sound for Washington Territory and Olympia became the home of the customs house. Its population steadily expanded fromOregon Trail immigrants. In 1850, the town settled on the name Olympia, at local resident ColonelIsaac N. Ebey's suggestion,[6] because of its view of theOlympic Mountains to the northwest. The area began to be served by a small fleet of steamboats known as thePuget Sound Mosquito Fleet. It was declared the capital of the Washington Territories by GovernorIsaac I. Stevens in November 1853.[7] Olympia was the first and only capital of Washington in its history as both a territory and a state.[8]
Over two days, December 24–26, 1854, Governor Stevens negotiated theTreaty of Medicine Creek with the representatives of the Nisqually, Puyallup, Squawksin, Steh'Chass, Noo-Seh-Chatl, Squi-Aitl, T'Peeksin, Sah-Heh-Wa-Mish, and S'Hotl-Ma-Mish tribes. Stevens's treaty included the preservation of Indigenous fishing, hunting, gathering and other rights. It also included a section which, at least as interpreted by United States officials, required the Native American signatories to move to one of three reservations. Doing so would effectivelyforce the Nisqually people to cede their prime farming and living space. An additional agreement between the state, city, and indigenous groups, known as the Treaty of Olympia or as theQuinault Treaty, was completed during 1855.[9] One of the leaders of the Nisqually,Chief Leschi, outraged, refused to give up ownership of this land and instead fought for his people's right to their territory, sparking the beginning of thePuget Sound War. The war ended with Leschi's capture in 1856; he was executed two years later.
Olympia wasincorporated as a town on January 28, 1859,[10] and as a city in 1882.[11]
The1949 Olympia earthquake damaged many historic buildings beyond repair, and they were demolished. Parts of the city also suffered damage from earthquakes in1965 and2001.
Interstate 5 was built through the south side of the city in the late 1950s as a replacement for earlier highways that traveled through downtown Olympia. The freeway was originally planned to cut through the city, but was moved farther out to save costs. It opened to traffic on December 12, 1958, and was later expanded in 1991.[12]
Olympia is located in Thurston County[13] at the southern end ofPuget Sound onBudd Inlet, where theDeschutes Riverestuary enters the Sound. The river was dammed in 1951 to createCapitol Lake; in late 2022 the state government approved the dam's removal to restore the estuary at an unspecified date.[14]
The city is 47 miles (76 km) southwest ofSeattle, the most populous city in Washington, and 100 miles (160 km) north ofPortland, Oregon.[15] The cities of Lacey and Tumwater border Olympia.
As of 2024[update], Olympia had an area of 20.08 square miles (52.01 km2), of which 18.22 sq mi (47.19 km2) was land and 1.86 sq mi (4.82 km2) was water.[2]
The area is located near the southern limit of theFraser Glaciation and the underlying sediments consist largely ofVashon-agetill andoutwash deposited at that time; the area also includes former lakebeds and alluvial deposits associated withproglacial lakes that existed in the area near the end of Vashon-stage glaciation. Residual glacial topography in the area includesdrumlins,subglacial channels, andkettle lakes.[16] Much of downtown Olympia sits onreclaimed land.Tidewater areas were filled as early as the 1870s, but the major change occurred in 1910–11 with placement of the Carlyon Fill (named for mayorPhillip H. Carlyon). Over two million cubic yards (1,500,000 m3) of sediment weredredged, thereby creating a deep-water port at Olympia; the dredged material was used to fill tidelands, creating almost 30 blocks of what is now downtown.[17][unreliable source?]
Olympia has a warm-summerMediterranean climate (Köppen:Csb). The localmicroclimate has dry summers in July and mildly humid summers in early June and late August, with cool July and August overnight lows. It is part of USDAHardiness zone 8a, with isolated pockets around Puget Sound in zone 8b.[18] Most of western Washington's weather is brought in by weather systems that form near theAleutian Islands inAlaska. It contains cold moist air, which brings western Washington cold rain, cloudiness, and fog. November through January are Olympia's rainiest months. City streets, creeks, and rivers can flood from November to February. The monthly mean temperature ranges from 38.4 °F (3.6 °C) in December to 64.1 °F (17.8 °C) in August. Seasonal snowfall for 1981–2010 averaged 10.8 inches (27.4 cm)[19] but has historically ranged from trace amounts in 1991–92 to 81.5 in (207 cm) in 1968–69.[19]
Climate chart for Olympia
Olympia averages 50 inches (1,270 mm) of precipitation annually and has a year-round average of 75% cloud cover. Annual precipitation has ranged from 29.92 in (760 mm) in 1952 to 66.71 in (1,694 mm) in 1950; for water year (October 1 – September 30) precipitation, the range is 32.71 in (831 mm) in 2000–01 to 72.57 in (1,843 mm) in 1998–99.[19] With a period of record dating back to 1948, extreme temperatures have ranged from −8 °F (−22 °C) on January 1, 1979, up to 110 °F (43 °C), on June 28, 2021; the record cold daily maximum is 18 °F (−8 °C) on January 31, 1950, while, conversely, the record warm daily minimum is 69 °F (21 °C) on July 22, 2006.[19] Between 1991 and 2020 the mean coldest daily maximum was right on the freezing point at 32 °F (0 °C) and the warmest night of the year averaged a very mild 60 °F (16 °C).[19]
On average, 6.3 days annually reach 90 °F (32 °C), 1.8 days stay at or below freezing all day, and 78 nights reach the freezing mark.[19] The average window for freezing temperatures is October 8 through May 3, allowing a growing season of 157 days, nearly 100 days shorter than in Seattle.[19]
Olympia was historically dependent onartesian waters, including springs that supplied early settlers in Swantown and Tumwater. The artesian spring at Fourth Avenue and Main Street (now called Capitol Way) was the main community well where settlers, as well as the local Steh-Chass and visiting Native Americans, gathered to socialize. Settler accounts recall paying Native Americans to collect water here. The artesian well atArtesian Commons park, a former parking lot, is active.[23] Another still flows at the corner of Olympia Avenue and Washington Street. A small park was constructed around another spring in theBigelow Neighborhood.[24] The northeast end of Capitol Lake was the location of an artesian well until the construction of a new park that included changes to the shoreline. McAllister Springs, Olympia's main water source, is fed by artesian wells, and the formerOlympia Brewery is supplied by 26 artesian wells.
Efforts to protect and preserve the free-flowing artesian well on 4th Avenue in downtown Olympia began in 1991 with support from a local coffee roaster. Donations from the public were used to form "Friends of the Artesians", a group that researched the wells, maintained them, and tested their quality. They were later replaced by the non-profit organizationH2Olympia in 2009.[25] In 2011, the city of Olympia committed $50,000 toward improvements of an artesian well in a parking lot that the city purchased the same year.[26] Renovations at the well were completed in late 2011, including surface improvements, solar lighting, and a raised area to fill bottles. In spring 2012, sea-themed mosaic artwork created by community members was installed at the site of the well.
As of the2020 census, there were 55,605 people within the city. Thepopulation density was 2,825 inhabitants per square mile (1,090.7/km2). There were 25,642 housing units at an average density of 1,303 units per square mile (503 units/km2). The racial makeup of the city was 78.4%White, 9.6%Hispanic or Latino, 7.3%Asian, 3.1%African American, and 6.9% from other races or multiracial.[29]
As of the2010 census, there were 46,478 people, 20,761 households, and 10,672 families residing in the city. Thepopulation density was 2,608.2 inhabitants per square mile (1,007.0/km2). There were 22,086 housing units at an average density of 1,239.4 units per square mile (478.5 units/km2). The racial makeup of the city was 83.7%White, 2.0%African American, 1.1%Native American, 6.0%Asian, 0.4%Pacific Islander, 1.8% from other races, and 5.0% from two or more races.Hispanic orLatino of any race were 6.3% of the population.
There were 20,761 households, of which 25.6% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 36.2% weremarried couples living together, 11.3% had a female householder with no husband present, 3.9% had a male householder with no wife present, and 48.6% were other families. 36.3% of all households were made up of individuals, and 11.7% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.18 and the average family size was 2.83.
The median age in the city was 38 years. 19.5% of residents were under the age of 18; 11.2% were between the ages of 18 and 24; 28.5% were from 25 to 44; 26.7% were from 45 to 64; and 13.9% were 65 years of age or older. The gender makeup of the city was 47.3% male and 52.7% female.
The City of Olympia operates as aCouncil–manager government, with a mayor and 6 elected council members. The council appoints a city manager to operate the City and direct employees. As of the fiscal year 2023, the city had a general fund budget of $114 million and a full-time staff of 600.[30]
Despite its relatively small population, Olympia is internationally known for its local music scene, particularly in thealternative rock andpunk genres. It is most notable for its role in incubating theriot grrrl andgrunge movements of the 1990s.[33][34] The Olympia Music History Project formed in 2023 to research and document the area's music scene during the late 20th century, the peak of its influence.[35]
Olympia has been a starting point or home for numerous bands that have achieved international recognition.Nirvana, among the most popular bands of the 20th century and known for popularizing the Pacific Northwest-basedgrunge genre, has roots in Olympia: lead singerKurt Cobain lived in Olympia for several years during the band's rise to fame, and penned most songs on their bestselling albumNevermind while living there.[36]Bikini Kill started the influentialfeministpunk movementriot grrrl in Olympia in 1990, as a counterpoint to grunge. Other prominent Olympia-based bands in the riot grrrl movement includedSleater-Kinney, named after a street in neighboringLacey, Washington.[37]
In addition, local alternative rock record labelsK Records andKill Rock Stars have played a significant role in shapingalternative rock and its subgenres.K Records, founded by musicianCalvin Johnson, supported the early careers of Pacific Northwest artists includingModest Mouse andPhil Elverum. Kurt Cobain is said to have had a tattoo of Johnson's logo on his forearm.[38] During its heyday, Johnson and his label earned the attention ofBeck, then a rising star, who traveled to Olympia to record the collaborative albumOne Foot In The Grave with Johnson.[39]
Kill Rock Stars, founded in Olympia shortly after K Records, got their start releasing Bikini Kill's first EP, and eventually grew into an indie label hosting the likes of Sleater-Kinney,Elliott Smith, andXiu Xiu, among others.[40]
Today, Olympia continues to play host to a strong local music scene, including several annual music festivals across various genres, including South Sound Block Party, Oly Funk Fest, and Olympia Old Time Music Festival.[citation needed]
Olympia is a regional center for fine arts. A number oftheatrical experiences are available with companies such as Animal Fire Theater, Olympia Family Theater, Olympia Little Theater, Theater Artists Olympia, Broadway Olympia Productions, and Harlequin Productions at the historic State Theater, as well as Broadway Olympia's Black Box Theater at Capitol Mall. The Olympia Symphony Orchestra performs five regular-season concerts at the Washington Center and two pops concerts. The Masterworks Chorale Ensemble performs four regular-season concerts at the Washington Center for the Performing Arts.
Visual art venues include some of the local coffeehouses, Olympia Coffee Roasting Co.,Batdorf & Bronson, and Burial Grounds downtown, with the latter indefinitely closed. Art House Designs is an art gallery that also hosts a jazz performance space.Murals and public art installations ofsculpture are prevalent in Olympia and are especially featured on the State Capitol Campus and alongPercival Landing on the urban waterfront. The Washington Center for the Performing Arts also presents visual art exhibitions throughout the season in its lobby areas.
Notable art venues near Olympia include Art in Ecology, housed in Washington Department of Ecology's 322,000-square-foot, three-story building on the campus of Saint Martin's University. Art in Ecology is a long-established art-in-the-workplace venue that has works by numerous northwest artists. Permanent installations by Alfredo Arreguin, commissioned by the Washington State Arts Commission, are accompanied by changing solo and group exhibitions throughout the year. Appointments to view the works are needed; tours take about an hour.
South Puget Sound Community College has a gallery in its Minnaert Center with rotating exhibitions. Evergreen State College, northwest of Olympia, has a professionally curated gallery with rotating shows in the Dan Evans Library building. South of Olympia,Monarch Contemporary Art Center and Sculpture Park has an 80-acresculpture garden andart gallery.
Each year, theOlympia Film Society (OFS) produces a film festival and fosters film and video education in Olympia. It also shows independent, classic, and international films year-round at the art-decoCapitol Theater. A mostly volunteer-powered organization, OFS supports and presents a variety of cultural events, includingAll Freakin' Night, an all-night horror film screening with a cult following.
Arts Walk is public community event which takes places twice each year: on the 4th Friday and Saturday in April and on the 1st Friday and Saturday in October. It is estimated to attract 30,000 visitors and features the work of over 400 artists at more than 100 participating locations. The April event includesProcession of the Species.[41][42]
Olympia has a wide array ofpublic parks and nature conservation areas.[43]Percival Landing Park is one of three city waterfront parks, located on the southern-most point ofPuget Sound.[44] It includes 0.9 miles (1.4 km) ofboardwalk alongBudd Inlet, as well as a playground, picnic areas, and a large open space. The boardwalk leads north to an open-air amphitheater, a viewing tower beside thePort of Olympia, as well as the Olympia Farmers' Market.
Squaxin Park is a 314-acre park with an extensive trail system, playground and beach access.[47] Additional developed parks in the city include Sunrise Park,Watershed Park andWoodruff Park. Neighborhood parks include Friendly Grove, located in a small eastside community, Trillium Park, which was created by the efforts of adjoining neighborhood associations, andYauger Park, home to one of Olympia's publicskate parks.[48]
The city is home to the Capital City Marathon which began in 1982, considered among one of the oldest marathon events in the state.[49] In May 1984, Olympia hosted the U.S. Olympic women's marathon trial under the auspices of the Capital City Marathon. The city had won a bid ahead of several larger U.S. cities. The winner of the event wasJoan Benoit, who won agold medal at the first women's Olympic marathon at the1984 Summer Olympics later that year inLos Angeles.[50]
FC Olympia (formerly the Oly Town Artesians) is an amateur soccer club that was founded in 2014 and primarily played at Black Hill High School. They field an amateur men's team inUSL League Two and theEvergreen Premier League. The women's team was associated with the Northwest Premier League.[52] As of 2024[update], the teams play their home matches at South Sound Stadium and the women's team plays in theUSL W League.[citation needed]
The majority of Olympia is located in theOlympia School District.[53] It enrolled 9,782 students in K-12 in the 2021–22 school year.[54] The district has a total of 18 schools: 11 elementary schools, four middle schools and three high schools. Its high schools areOlympia High School (formally known as William Winlock Miller High School),Capital High School, and Avanti High School.
In the 2007–08 school year, Olympia began the Parent Partnership Program, which provides more opportunities to homeschooling families. Olympia's online high school, Olympia Regional Learning Academy (ORLA), is part of the same program. Private elementary schools include Olympia Waldorf School, Olympia Community School, St. Michael School, Holy Family, and Evergreen Christian. Private middle schools include Olympia Waldorf School and NOVA School. Pope John Paul II High School is a private high school.
In addition to primary and secondary schools, Olympia has a number of institutions of higher learning, namelyThe Evergreen State College andSouth Puget Sound Community College. The Evergreen State College offers bachelor's degrees in liberal arts and science, and master's degrees in environmental studies, public administration, education, and teaching. South Puget Sound Community College offers associate degrees in arts, science, biology, elementary education, pre-nursing, applied science, general studies, and business.
The Olympian is the local daily newspaper. The Tacoma-basedWeekly Volcano has covered Olympia entertainment since 2001. Progressive newspaperWorks in Progress is published monthly.[56] The statewide government channelTVW is based in Olympia. Online outlet NorthAmericaTalk, an aggregate for local community news and marketing, was established with headquarters in Olympia.
Olympia and Thurston County are included in the Seattle-Tacoma designated market area (DMA), and therefore are chiefly served by Seattle's network-affiliated television stations and some radio stations. Since 1983, Olympia has had a public, educational and government access television station, which was rebranded in 2016 as Thurston Community Media.[57] Olympia sits on the southern fringe of the FM signal ofNational Public Radio member stationKUOW. An AM simulcast is transmitted from a tower in nearbyTumwater.[58] Evergreen State College'sKAOS broadcasts a mix of educational and political programming, with student-driven music shows.[59]
Public transit services in Olympia and surrounding areas are provided byIntercity Transit, a local system that is primarily financed by asales tax.[63] Olympia Transit Center is the main hub of the system and is also served byGrays Harbor Transit, theMason Transit Authority,Lewis County Transit and intercityGreyhound andFlixBus buses.[64][65] Intercity Transit also operates a prototypebus rapid transit service, the One, from Olympia to Lacey as well as connecting express service toLakewood.[66][67] All Intercity Transit services have beenfare-free since 2020 as part of a demonstration program.[68] As of 2021[update], Olympia is among the top 50 metropolitan areas in the United States for public transit ridership per capita and is tied withPhoenix with 14.1 riders per capita.[69]
Amtrak provides intercity train service to the Olympia–Lacey area atCentennial Station, which is staffed by volunteers. It is served by the dailyCoast Starlight fromLos Angeles and theSan Francisco Bay Area and more frequentAmtrakCascades trains that operate from Portland to Seattle andVancouver, British Columbia.[70][71] In the early 21st century, several organizations have proposed the start of an intercity passenger-onlyferry service to connect Olympia to Seattle and other areas on Puget Sound.[72]
A previous sister city agreement withOlympia, Greece, is no longer in effect.[89] An attempt to create a sister city partnership withRafah,Palestine, was rejected by the city council in 2007.[90]
On December 12, 2023, the City Council passed a resolution calling for an "immediate and permanent ceasefire" during theIsraeli–Palestinian conflict. Furthermore, the city recognized the right of existence of both the Palestinian and Israeli states.[91]
^Washington State Department of Transportation (2014).Washington State Highways, 2014–2015(PDF) (Map). 1:842,000. Olympia: Washington State Department of Transportation.Olympia, Lacey & Tumwater inset. RetrievedApril 7, 2025 – via WSDOT Library Digital Collections.
^Buhain, Venice (April 19, 2007)."Council vote won't stop Rafah visits".The Olympian. p. B1.Archived from the original on November 12, 2023. RetrievedOctober 11, 2023 – via Newspapers.com.
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