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Old City orInner City (Azerbaijani:İçərişəhər)[2] is the historical core ofBaku, the capital ofAzerbaijan. The Old City is the most ancient part of Baku,[3] which is surrounded by walls. In 2007, the Old City had a population of about 3,000 people.[4] In December 2000, the Old City of Baku, including thePalace of the Shirvanshahs andMaiden Tower, became the first location inAzerbaijan to be classified as aUNESCOWorld Heritage Site.
Pagan temple in İcheri SheherOne of the gates of İcheri Sheher
The Old City, including itsMaiden Tower, is widely accepted to date at least to the 12th century, with some researchers contending that construction dates as far back as the 7th century. The question has not been completely settled.[5]
In 1806, when Baku was occupied by theRussian Empire during theRusso-Persian War (1804–13),[6] there were 500 households and 707 shops, and a population of 7,000 in the Old City (then the only neighbourhood of Baku) who were almost all ethnicTats.[7] Between 1807 and 1811, the city walls were repaired and the fortifications extended. The city had two gates: theSalyan Gates and theShemakha Gates. The city was protected by dozens of cannons set on the walls. The port was re-opened for trade, and in 1809 a customs office was established.[8]
It was during this period that Baku started to extend beyond the city walls, and new neighbourhoods emerged. Thus the termsInner City (Azerbaijani:İçəri Şəhər) andOuter City (Azerbaijani:Bayır Şəhər) came into use. Referring to the early Russian rule, Bakuvian actorHuseyngulu Sarabski wrote in his memoirs:[9]
Baku was divided into two sections: Ichari Shahar and Bayir Shahar. Inner City was the main part. Those who lived in the Inner City were considered natives of Baku. They were in close proximity to everything: the bazaar, craftsmen's workshops and mosques. There was even a church there, as well as a military barracks built during the Russian occupation. Residents who lived inside the walls considered themselves to be superior to those outside and often referred to them as the "barefooted people of the Outer City".
With the arrival of Russians, the traditional architectural look of the Old City changed. Many European buildings were constructed during the 19th century and early 20th century, using styles such asBaroque andGothic.
In 1865, a part of the city walls overlooking the sea was demolished, and the stones were sold and used in the building of the Outer city. The money obtained from this sale (44,000 rubles) went into the construction of theBaku Boulevard. In 1867, the first fountains of Baku appeared in the Boulevard.
In this period, two more gates were opened, one of them being famousTaghiyev Gate (1877). The opening of new gates and passes continued well into the Soviet period.
The church mentioned by Huseyngulu Sarabski was the ArmenianChurch of the Holy Virgin, built under Persian rule between 1797 and 1799 in the shadow of the Maiden Tower, defunct since 1984 and demolished in 1992.[10]
İcheri Sheher streetView of Old City fromMaiden Tower
The Old City was divided into several quarters, which also served as social divisions. Sometimes, the divisions of the Old City were named after their mosque: for example, Juma Mosque quarter, Shal Mosque quarter, Mahammadyar Mosque quarter, etc.[11]
In 2008, an ancient underpass, dated back to the 19th century, was discovered while holding reconstruction at Vahid park. The workers marched about 200 metres (660 ft) along the tunnel, but then stopped, having met with water and silt masses. Judging by the photographs taken in the cave, the tunnel is built very thoroughly, the walls, ceiling and floor of the tunnel are paved with white sawn stone. The workers also found a handful of coins of theSoviet period, suggesting that there was somebody in the tunnel before them, but the unknown went down at least 20 years ago.[12]
According to scholarVitaly Antonov, in the late 18th century Baku was the Caucasian center of the revolutionary movement, and the found underpass was dug to save the governor in case of mass riots in the city. Another version is that this passage is one of the several, leading to the ancientSabayil Castle, flooded by theCaspian Sea. There are several tunnels leading from the Palace of Shirvanshahs and Synykh Gala, situated in Icheri Shekher, to the sea. Synykh Gala was the mosque in the 15th century, in the times of theShah Ismail Khatai, and was destroyed by the troops ofPeter I. That is, the discovered passage is part of the underground network connecting the city of Sabayil to the land.[13]
The first knownmadrasa in the Old City was opened in the 12th century, and amongst its popular lectors wasBaba Kuhi Bakuvi. Four hundred years later, another distinguished scholar namedSeyid Yahya Bakuvi (born in 1403) founded aDarulfunun (the House of Arts and Sciences, a prototype of a modern university) at thePalace of the Shirvanshahs. But with the fall of the Shirvanshahs' state, the education in Baku gradually diminished. By 1806 there remained only twelvemollakhanas (primary and secondary schools, kept by mosques) in the Old City, and only three of them survived into the 20th century. Later, all such schools were closed and replaced with modern kindergartens and state secular schools.
In 2009, the World Heritage Committee praised Azerbaijan for its efforts to preserve the walled city of Baku and removed it from the endangered list.[15][16](SeeList of World Heritage Sites in Azerbaijan)
Baku Khans' Palace in Old CityPalace of the Shirvanshahs in Old City
Some scenes of famous Azerbaijani and USSR movies such asDiamond Hand,Amphibian Man,Aybolit-66,Teheran-43,Do Not Be Afraid, I'm with You, which are famous around the world were shot in Old City.[citation needed]
The well-known scene of "In Foreign Country – Istanbul" of "Brilliant Hand" was shot in Old City through the decision ofLeonid Gayday. The old streets of Old City, Shirvanshahs' Palace, minarets of mosques and fortress walls appear in the movie. A monument of Yuri Nikulin was erected in Icherisheher, where the movie was shooting.[17]
Other film scenes that were shot in the Old City include:[citation needed]
Arshin Mal Alan (1945), film directors: R.Tahmasib and N.Leshenko
For a long period of time, an explicit symbol of the Old City was amulberry tree located behind theDjuma Mosque.[citation needed] It was believed that the tree was several hundred years old. The tree made its way into many sayings and songs popular in the Old City and became a local landmark. The place where that tree was located was referred to as Mulberry Tree Square. However, in the 1970s, the mulberry tree was cut down, because of the nearby construction works.
Another popular landmark of the Old City is the local bookstore that sells mostly second-hand, but also new books. Situated amongst the Bukhara and the Multani Caravanserais, theMaiden Tower, andHajinski's Palace (otherwise known asCharles de Gaulle House because he stayed there duringWorld War II), it is a popular destination of Bakuvian students and bibliophiles, mostly because of its low prices.
The Old City of Baku is depicted on theobverse of the Azerbaijani 10manat banknote issued since 2006.[18]