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Okazuya

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Japanese-style delicatessen in Hawaii

Window display of okazu offerings

Okazuya (御菜屋 orおかずや) orokazu-ya are a Japanese-styledelicatessen common in Hawaii. Unlike western delicatessens found in North America or Europe, anokazuya is an establishment that sells readymade Japanese-styled food. "Okazu" refers to a side dish to accompany rice, while "ya" refers to a retail establishment.[1][2][3]

InHawaii, anokazuya offers an array ofokazu, food items that are soldà la carte, often by the piece, which can be combined to create a meal.[4] Many of the dishes may also be offered in the form of ready-to-gobento.[5][6] It is often considered the precursor to theplate lunch.[7][8]

History

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The idea of theokazuya was a result ofJapanese andRyukyuans immigration in the late 1800s. Thousands came toHawaii to work ascontract laborers in the fruit andsugar plantations.[6] While men labored in the plantation fields, women were doing household jobs such as cooking. Many of these women would eventually sell their cooked dishes to other plantation workers for additional income.[9][10] These establishments were essential in the daily lives of immigrants, particularly for bachelors who did not have the resources or knowledge to cook for themselves.[11][12] Although the localokazuya derive its name and recipes from Japan and Ryukyu Islands, they are still considered very much Hawaiian.[13] Many of theokazuya that exists today were started byRyukyuans who retired from plantation work in the 1940s.[14]

Numerousokazuya are standalonetake-out shops or attached to anotherfamily business like a neighborhood grocery store,[6] but there are a few that have a dining area or have an adjoining restaurant. Olderokazuya have typically remained afamily business passed down from generation-to-generation.[15] Consequently, the challenges of multigenerational establishments have forced several to close when family members choose other careers.[6][11][16] Much of the work is done manually, requiring 18 hours a day.[15][17] Each of the mainHawaiian Islands has anokazuya.[18]Oahu had as many as forty-twookazuya in 2000, but that number has decreased to less than half by 2022.[18] The oldest existingokazuya on Oahu isSekiya's which was opened in 1935.[19] One of the oldest in Hawaii wasNagasako Okazu-ya Deli inLahaina,Maui, opened in the early 1900s before it was destroyed in the2023 Hawaii wildfires.[20][21]

Okazu dishes

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Various standard okazu items

Numerousokazuya proprietors and workers typically start very early in the morning to prepare theokazu before opening the shop in order to target customers who purchase lunch before the start of the workday.[6][16][17] As a result, several dishes are sold at room temperature,[6] although a fewokazuya have modernized with equipment such asfood warmers. These dishes are often displayed to patrons on the window front or counter (sometimes without prices).[15][20][22] Very few remain open past lunchtime. While manyokazuya offer traditional and similar fare, ingredients and preparation ofokazu can vary greatly from one shop to another. "Fried chicken" at one shop may consist of battered boneless chicken thighs while another usespanko bone-in chicken wings.

As suggested by the name,okazu are dishes that are enjoyed with rice. Thus, many are characteristically salty or salty-sweet, with partial use ofshōyu (soy sauce) andmirin (sweet cooking wine) as ingredients. Several of these dishes were a result offusion cuisine, adapted to the ingredients and tastes of the time.Okazuya-stylechow fun is simpler than Chinesechow fun and is a common substitution foronigiri (rice). A "potato hash" (or "hash patty"), sometimes containing small amounts of cannedcorned beef, are described as pan-fried potatocroquettes withoutpanko. TheOkinawan dishrafute is pork belly simmered inshōyu sweetened with sugar. This popular concept was applied to dishes like chicken and hot dogs which were widely available and affordable, now known today as "shoyu chicken" and "shoyu hot dog" respectively.Tamagoyaki often includeSPAM,hot dogs, orfishcake.

In the present day, severalokazuya have included in their offerings modern local-Japanesefusion dishes such as "chickenkatsu," "furikake chicken," "garlic chicken," and non-Japanese foods such as Chinesestir-fries includingchow mein, Filipinoadobo, Koreankalbi, Hawaiianpoke, and Americansteak.[6][15]

Rice and noodles

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Vegetable side dishes

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Fried items

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  • Tempura - deep-fried battered shrimp, fish, or vegetables
  • Fried chicken - deep-fried chicken thighskaraage style or inmochiko batter
  • Fish cake - deep-fried fish croquettes made fromsurimi, sometimes stuffed with hard-boiled egg or hot dog
  • Korokke - or "hash balls," deep-fried potato croquettes in batter orpanko

Simmered items

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  • Nishime - simmered mixed vegetables, sometimes with chicken or pork
  • Shoyu - pork, chicken, or hot dog simmered in soy sauce and sugar

Grilled

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  • Potato hash patty - potato croquettes sometimes seasoned with corned beef
  • Tamagoyaki - egg omelette sometimes mixed with vegetables or meats
  • Teriyaki - thinly sliced beef, boneless chicken thighs,meatballs or hamburger steak grilled and glazed withteriyaki sauce
  • Tofu patty - a fish cake made with mashedtofu and canned tuna or salmon
  • Fish -ʻahi,mahi mahi,saba, orsalmon
  • Luncheon meats - SPAM, hot dog,ham

See also

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References

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  1. ^Mannur, Anita (January 2006)."Asian American Food-Scapes".Amerasia Journal.32 (2):1–6.doi:10.17953/amer.32.2.42q45g759q686875.ISSN 0044-7471.S2CID 146663990.
  2. ^Yano, Christine (January 2006)."Shifting Plates: Okazuya in Hawai'i".Amerasia Journal.32 (2):36–46.doi:10.17953/amer.32.2.7w6u2184865054r6.ISSN 0044-7471.S2CID 147504188. RetrievedSeptember 24, 2023.
  3. ^Yano, Christine R. (October 2009)."Becoming Local: Japanese American Delicatessens in Hawai'i".Chinese and Northeast Asian Cuisines: Local, National, and Global Foodways. (in Chinese). 財團法人中華飲食文化基金會: 19–1–19-18.doi:10.6641/PICCFC.11.2009.16.
  4. ^"What Are Okazuya?".connect2local.com.
  5. ^Folen, Alana (September 2, 2012)."Home, Sweet Home at Nuuanu Okazuya | Nuuanu Okazuya".Dining Out. Honolulu Star-Advertiser. RetrievedSeptember 24, 2023.
  6. ^abcdefgYamanaka, Katie Y (November 14, 2022)."This Mom-and-Pop Shop is Known for Building Better Bentos".Hawaii Magazine. RetrievedSeptember 24, 2023.
  7. ^"Origins of Plate Lunch".Honolulu,Hawaii:KHNL. November 27, 2002. Archived fromthe original on January 5, 2008. RetrievedNovember 12, 2008.
  8. ^Smith, Andrew F. (March 9, 2007).The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink. Oxford University Press. p. 326.ISBN 978-0199885763.
  9. ^McLean, Alice L (2015).Asian American food culture. USA: Bloomsbury Publishing. p. 14.
  10. ^"2019 'Ilima Awards Restaurants: D-H".Honolulu Star-Advertiser. October 13, 2019. RetrievedSeptember 24, 2023.
  11. ^abShimabukuro, Betty."Two friends are working on a guidebook listing all of Oahu's very special delis".archives.starbulletin.com. Honolulu Star-Bulletin. RetrievedSeptember 24, 2023.
  12. ^"Reader Poll: What's Your Favorite Okazuya on O'ahu?".Honolulu Magazine. August 10, 2021. RetrievedSeptember 23, 2023.
  13. ^Boehm, Deborah (1981). "Okazu ya".East West Photo Journal.2 (Winter): 24.
  14. ^Matsuda, Mitsugu (1968).The Japanese in Hawaii, 1868-1967, a Bibliography of the First Hundred Years. Honolulu: Social Science Research Institute, University of Hawaii.
  15. ^abcdBeriss, David; Sutton, David E (2007).The restaurants book: Ethnographies of where we eat. Bloomsbury Publishing. pp. 48–62.
  16. ^abOi, Cynthia (March 3, 1999)."Much Ado About Okazu".archives.starbulletin.com. Honolulu Star-Bulletin. RetrievedSeptember 24, 2023.
  17. ^abOhira, Rod (January 4, 1999)."Okazuya leaves sweet memories".archives.starbulletin.com. Honolulu Star-Bulletin. RetrievedSeptember 24, 2023.
  18. ^abDela Cruz, Donovan M; Chai, Jodi E (November 15, 2000).The Okazu Guide : Oh, 'Cause You Hungry!. Publishing: Watermark.ISBN 0970578709.
  19. ^"Ono Okazuya".PBS Hawai‘i. July 26, 2022. RetrievedSeptember 24, 2023.
  20. ^ab"RE-LISTEN: Okazuya (with Jodi Endo Chai)".PBS Hawai‘i. July 23, 2022. RetrievedSeptember 24, 2023.
  21. ^Wianecki, Shannon (September 13, 2023)."What We Lost in the Lahaina Fire".Eater. RetrievedSeptember 23, 2023.
  22. ^Hoshida, Greg (October 16, 2020)."A New Okazuya Continues a Long Tradition in Waipahu".Honolulu Magazine. RetrievedSeptember 24, 2023.

Bibliography

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  • Nabarrete, Zoe; Hookala, Cat (January 1, 2007). Hawaii's Lunchbox (Okazu) & Family Recipes. Morris Press Cookbooks. ISBN 0615230660.
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