| Scottish Gaelic name | Uibhist a Tuath |
|---|---|
| Pronunciation | [ˈɯ.ɪʃtʲəˈt̪ʰuə]ⓘ |
| Scots name | North Uist[1] |
| Meaning of name | The etymology of "Uibhist" is unclear. |
 Lochmaddy pier | |
| Location | |
  North Uist North Uist shown within the Outer Hebrides | |
| OS grid reference | NF835697 |
| Coordinates | 57°36′00″N7°19′59″W / 57.6°N 7.333°W /57.6; -7.333 |
| Physical geography | |
| Island group | Uist andBarra |
| Area | 30,305 ha (74,885 acres) |
| Area rank | 10 [2] |
| Highest elevation | Eaval 1,138 ft (347 m) |
| Administration | |
| Council area | Comhairle nan Eilean Siar |
| Country | Scotland |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Demographics | |
| Population | 1,208[3] |
| Population rank | 13 [2] |
| Population density | 4 people/km2[3][4] |
| Largest settlement | Lochmaddy |
 | |
| References | [4][5] |
| Official name | North Uist Machair and Islands |
| Designated | 22 July 1997 |
| Reference no. | 1004[6] |
North Uist (Scottish Gaelic:Uibhist a Tuath) is an island andcommunity in theOuter Hebrides ofScotland.
InDonald Munro'sA Description of the Western Isles of Scotland Called Hybrides of 1549, North Uist,Benbecula andSouth Uist are described as one island ofYwst (Uist). Starting in the south of this 'island', he described the division between South Uist and Benbecula where "the end heirof the sea enters, and cuts the countrey be ebbing and flowing through it". Further north of Benbecula he described North Uist as "this countrey is called Kenehnache of Ywst, that is in Englishe, the north head of Ywst".[7]
Some have taken theetymology of Uist fromOld Norse, meaning "west",[4] much likeWestray inOrkney.[8] Another speculated derivation of Uist from Old Norse isÍvist,[9] derived fromvist meaning "an abode, dwelling, domicile".[10]
AGaelic etymology is also possible, withI-fheirste meaning "Crossings-island" or "Fords-island", derived fromI meaning "island" andfearsad meaning "estuary, sand-bank, passage across at ebb-tide".[8][11] Place-names derived fromfearsad includeFersit, andBelfast.[11]Mac an Tàilleir (2003) suggests that a Gaelic derivation ofUist may be "corn island".[12] However, whilst noting that the-vist ending would have been familiar to speakers ofOld Norse as meaning "dwelling", Gammeltoft (2007) says the word is "of non-Gaelic origin" and that it reveals itself as one of a number of "foreign place-names having undergone adaptation in Old Norse".[13] In contrast, Clancy (2018) has argued thatÍvist itself is an Old Norsecalque on an earlier Gaelic name,Ibuid orIbdaig, which corresponds toPtolemy’sEboudai.[14][note 1]
North Uist is the tenth-largest Scottish island[16] and the thirteenth-largest island surroundingGreat Britain.[17] It has an area of 117 square miles (303 square kilometres),[4] slightly smaller thanSouth Uist. North Uist is connected bycauseways toBenbecula viaGrimsay, toBerneray, and toBaleshare. With the exception of the south east, the island is very flat, and covered with a patchwork ofpeat bogs, low hills andlochans, with more than half the land being covered by water. Some of the lochs contain a mixture of fresh and tidal salt water, giving rise to some complex and unusual habitats.Loch Sgadabhagh, about which it has been said "there is probably no other loch in Britain which approaches Loch Scadavay in irregularity and complexity of outline", is the largest loch by area on North Uist although Loch Obisary has about twice the volume of water.[18] The northern part of the island is part of theSouth Lewis, Harris and North UistNational Scenic Area, one of 40 in Scotland.[19]
In common with the rest of theWestern Isles, North Uist is formed from the oldest rocks in Britain, theLewisian gneiss which dates from theArchaean eon. A zone running west from Lochmaddy to Baleshare has abundantmetasediments andmetavolcanics. The direction of inclination of layered textures orfoliation in thismetamorphic rock is typically to the north but varies widely across the island. Pockets ofmetabasic rocks equivalent to the Scourie dyke suite are developed in certain areas, particularly in the north. Banded metabasic rocks and Archaeangranites are found in the northwest around Loch Phaibeil. A band ofpseudotachylyte curves north the northwest through the centre of the island.[20]The island is traversed by numerousnormal faults many of which run broadly NW-SE though ranging from E-W to NNW-SSE.Loch Eport is developed along one such fault. The Outer Hebrides Thrust Zone runs along the eastern coast of the island and brings distinctive gneisses which form the rough hilly terrain along that coast. More recent geological deposits includeblown sand along the northern and western coasts andpeat inland.[21]
A number of standing stones from theNeolithic period are scattered throughout the island, including astone circle atPobull Fhinn. In addition to these, a largeburial cairn, in almost pristine condition, is located atBarpa Langass. The island remained inhabited for at least part of theBronze Age; a burial from this period was found on the Udal peninsula (nearSollas). For theIron Age, in addition to thewheelhouses typical of the Outer Hebrides, the remains of abroch(fort), from the late Iron Age, can be found atDun an Sticir; there was formerly another broch nearScolpaig, but it was replaced byScolpaig Tower in the 19th century.[citation needed]
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In the 9th centuryViking settlers established theKingdom of the Isles throughout the Hebrides. Following Norwegian unification, the Kingdom of the Isles became a crown dependency of the Norwegian king; to the Norwegians it was theSuðreyjar (meaning "southern isles").
In the mid-12th century,Somerled, aNorse-Gael of uncertain origin, launched a coup, which made the Suðreyjar effectively independent. Following his death, Norwegian authority was nominally restored, but in practice, the kingdom was divided between Somerled's heirs (Clann Somhairle), and the dynasty that Somerled had deposed (theCrovan dynasty). TheMacRory, a branch of Somerled's heirs, ruled Uist, as well asBarra,Eigg,Rùm, theRough Bounds,Bute,Arran, and northernJura.[22][23][24][25][26]
In the 13th century Scottish forces attempted to conquer parts of Suðreyjar, culminating in the indecisiveBattle of Largs. In 1266, the matter was settled by theTreaty of Perth, which transferred the whole of Suðreyjar to Scotland, in exchange for the sum of 4000 marks.
At the turn of the century,William I had created the position ofSheriff of Inverness, to be responsible for the Scottish highlands, which theoretically now extended to Garmoran.[28][29] In 1293, however, KingJohn Balliol established theSheriffdom of Skye, which included the Outer Hebrides. Nevertheless, following his usurpation, theSkye sheriffdom ceased to be mentioned and the Garmoran lordship (including Uist) was confirmed toRuaidhrí Mac Ruaidhrí. In 1343, KingDavid II issued a further charter for this toRuaidhrí's son.[30]
In 1346, just three years later, the sole surviving MacRory heir was Amy of Garmoran. The southern parts of the Kingdom of the Isles had become theLordship of the Isles, ruled by theMacDonalds (another group of Somerled's descendants). Amy married the MacDonald chief,John of Islay, but a decade later he divorced her. As part of the divorce, John deprived his eldest son,Ranald, of the ability to inherit the Lordship of the Isles, in favour of a son by his new wife. As compensation, John granted Lordship of the Uists to Ranald's younger brother Godfrey.
Godfrey had a younger brother, Murdoch, whose heirs, theSiol Murdoch, now claimed to own part of North Uist. This led to a great deal of violent conflict involving Godfrey's family (theSiol Gorrie) and those of his brothers.[31]
In 1427, frustrated with the level of violence generally in the Highlands, KingJames I demanded that highland magnates should attend a meeting atInverness. On arrival, many of the leaders were seized and imprisoned. Alexander MacGorrie, son of Godfrey, was considered to be one of the two most reprehensible, and after a quickshow trial, was immediately executed.[32]
In 1469James III granted Lairdship of Garmoran, including North Uist, toJohn of Ross, the Lord of the Isles. In turn, John passed it to his own half-brother,Hugh of Sleat.Hugh died a few years later, and in 1505 his eldest son, John, granted North Uist (and Sleat) toRanald Bane, the Captain ofClanranald. However, Hugh's second son, DonaldGallach, opposed Clan Ranald and established his ownde facto control of North Uist and Sleat. In the following year (1506), Donald was stabbed to death by his own younger brother –Black Archibald. The king authorised Ranald Bane to retake the lands by force.[33]
Three years later Black Archibald returned. He managed to ingratiate himself with James IV, by capturing and handing over two pirates[33] and in 1511, the king pardoned him for his crimes, and confirmed his possession of Sleat and North Uist.[33]
At some point before 1520, Black Archibald was murdered by Donald Gallach's son. Consequently, in 1520, James IV issued a charter awarding lairdship of Sleat and North Uist toAlasdair Crotach MacLeod the leader of theSìol Tormoid, who possessed neighbouring lands.[citation needed]
After the deaths of Alastair Crotach and his son William in quick succession Alastair's heir was his young granddaughter, Mary MacLeod. Donald Gormson, a descendant of Donald Gallach, took the opportunity to seize Sleat and North Uist. In 1554,Mary of Guise was appointed regent and issued a"commission of fire and sword" against Gormson, who managed to successfully resist. By 1565, the tables turned when he took the queen's side during theChaseabout Raid and was consequently back in royal favour.
Donald Gorm Mor, Donald Gormson's grandson, was granted a charter in 1596 which acknowledged him as rightful heir of Hugh of Sleat, and confirmed him as laird of Sleat and North Uist. In an attempt to solidify peaceful relations with the Siol Tormoid, Donald Gorm Mor married the daughter of their leader,Rory Mor. Unfortunately, the marriage failed catastrophically, leading to theBattle of Carinish in North Uist, the last battle in Scotland that involved bows and arrows. It led to theBattle of Coire Na Creiche, where Donald Gorm Mor won a more decisive victory, at which point theprivy council intervened, and imposed a lasting peace. Donald was succeeded by his nephew, Donald Gorm Og whose loyalty to the king resulted in him being made the firstBaronet of Sleat.
A century later, Sir Donald MacDonald, the 4th Baronet of Sleat, supported theJacobite rising of 1715, but fell ill and was forced to flee to North Uist.[34] When thePapists Act was passed the following year, requiring his attendance at Inverlochy, he argued that he was too ill to travel. Under the terms of the act, this made him a recusant,[34] and his lairdships were accordingly forfeited, under the terms of theForfeited Estates Act of the previous year.[34]
On his succession in 1723, the 7th baronet arranged for a middleman to buy back Sleat and North Uist from the Commissioners for £21,000 and pass them on to him.[34] In 1727, he was granted a royal charter formally acknowledging his position as laird of the Sleat and North Uist.[34]
North UistbardIain Mac Fhearchair the official poet to the chief, composed poetry criticizing both theScottish clan chiefs and theAnglo-Scottish landlords of theHighlands and Islands for the often brutalmass evictions of the Scottish Gaels that followed the 1746Battle of Culloden.[35][36][37]Among MacCodrum's most popular anti-landlord poems he mocks Aonghus MacDhòmhnaill, the post-Cullodentacksman ofGriminish. It is believed to date from between 1769 and 1773, when overwhelming numbers of Sir Alexander MacDonald's tenants on the isles of North Uist and Skye were reacting to hisrackrenting and other harsh treatments by emigrating to the region surrounding theCape Fear River inNorth Carolina. The song is known in the oral tradition of North Uist asÒran Fir Ghriminis ("A Song of the Tacksman of Griminish").[38]
During theFrench Revolutionary Wars, the scarcity of external supplies of minerals to theUnited Kingdom led to a boom in thekelp industry, which became North Uist's main source of income.[39] When the war ended, the availability of foreign mineral supplies led to an abrupt collapse in the demand for kelp-based products. The burning of kelp had also damaged the fertility of the land. As a result, thecrofters of North Uist could no longer afford the rents.[39] Even though the landlords reduced the rents (e.g. in 1827 the rents were reduced by 20%) many resorted to emigration.[39]
In 1826 the villages of Kyles Berneray, Baile Mhic Coinein, and Baile Mhic Phàil, at the north-east corner of North Uist, were abandoned by their inhabitants. Although some moved further south-east to Loch Portain, most of those affected moved toCape Breton, inNova Scotia.[39] By 1838, the number of people having left North Uist was reported as 1,300; before the 1820s, the population of North Uist had been almost 5,000,[40] but by 1841 it had fallen to 3,870.
The 7th baronet's heir, Godfrey MacDonal, the 4thBaron of Slate ran sheep on North Uist[41] orchestrating one of the most notable massevictions of theHighland Clearances.[42] In 1849, an attempt to evict 603 crofters fromSollascaused rioting. Rocks were reportedly thrown at the police officers sent from Glasgow to quell the riot.[43][44] In the convictions that followed thejury added the following written comments:
...the jury unanimously recommend the pannels to the utmost leniency and mercy of the Court, in consideration of the cruel, though it may be legal, proceedings adopted in ejecting the whole people of Solas from their houses and crops without the prospect of shelter, or a footing in their fatherland, or even the means of expatriating them to a foreign one...[45]
In 1855, Sir Godfrey decided to sell North Uist to Sir John Powlett Orde[40] who gained the reputation of being the worst type of landlord, utterly opposed to any attempt to improve the lot of his tenants. He, in turn, sold parts of the island to his son Sir Arthur Campbell-Orde, mainly in order to frustrate the terms of theCrofter's Acts, which could have allowedcrofters to apply for more land, but only on land with the same ownership. Sir Arthur eventually inherited the whole estate; he seems to have been a very different type of landlord, and was involved in the re-crofting ofSollas and other areas."[46]
In 1889, counties were formally created in Scotland, on shrieval boundaries, bya dedicated Local Government Act; North Uist, therefore, became part of the newcounty of Inverness. Following late 20th century reforms, it became part of the Highland Region.
In 1944, the Campbell-Orde family sold North Uist Estate, not the whole island, toDouglas Douglas-Hamilton, 14th Duke of Hamilton, who in 1960 sold it in turn to the5th Earl Granville,[47] and the current laird isFergus Leveson-Gower, 6th Earl Granville, who lives on the island.[48] The Granville family administers the estate through atrust fund called the North Uist Trust.[40] Some of themachair townships, however, were taken over by theBoard of Agriculture and its successors.[47]
The population of North Uist has now dwindled to around 1,200.[3]
The main settlement on the island isLochmaddy, afishing port and home to amuseum, anarts centre and acamera obscura.Caledonian MacBrayne ferries sail from the village toUig on Skye, as well as from the island of Berneray (which is connected to North Uist by roadcauseway), toLeverburgh inHarris. Lochmaddy also has theTaigh Chearsabhagh — a museum and arts centre with a cafe, small shop and post office service. Nearby is the Uist Outdoor Centre.
The island's main villages areSollas, Hosta,Tigharry,Hougharry,Paible,Grimsay andCladach Kirkibost. Other settlements includeClachan Carinish,Knockquien,Port nan Long,Greinetobht andScolpaig, home to the nineteenth-centuryScolpaig Towerfolly.Loch Portain is a small hamlet on the east coast — some 9 mi (14 km) from Lochmaddy, with sub areas of Cheesebay and Hoebeg.
In the 18th century, the total population of the combinedUists rose dramatically, before the population crash of theHighland Clearances. In 1755, the Uists' estimated combined population was 4,118; by 1794 it rose to 6,668; and in 1821 to 11,009.[4]
| 1841 | 1881 | 1891 | 1931 | 1961 | 1971 | 1981 | 1991 | 2001[49] | 2011[50] | 2022[3] |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3,870 | 3,398 | 3,250 | 2,349 | 1,622 | 1,469 | 1,454 | 1,404 | 1,271 | 1,254 | 1,208 |
From Haswell-Smith (2004)[4] except as stated.
According to the 2011 Census, there are 887 Gaelic speakers (61%) on North Uist.[51]
North Uist has many prehistoric structures, including theBarpa Langasschambered cairn, thePobull Fhinnstone circle,Dun an Sticir, theFir Bhreigestanding stones,Eilean Dòmhnuill (which may be the earliestcrannog site in Scotland),[52] and theBaile Searroundhouses, which were exposed by storms in January 2005.[53]
The Vikings arrived in the Hebrides in AD 800 and developed large settlements.
Newer sites of interest are the Uist sculpture trail with two art installations in Lochmaddy. Close by is the Hut of Shadows, a camera obscura.
On the Northern and western side of the island are several white sandybeaches such as Clachan Sands.
The island is known for its bird life, includingcorncrakes,Arctic terns,gannets,corn buntings andManx shearwaters. TheRSPB has a nature reserve atBalranald.[54]
The penultimate segment of "Lochdown", the 41st episode (3rd episode of 4th season) of the popular motoring television seriesThe Grand Tour, was filmed on a narrow strait close to Griminish, at the northwest corner of the island, with the presenters building a floating bridge to drive their cars across to the island ofVallay (unlike suggested in the episode, the last segment was filmed inSwindon, not onVallay).[61]
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
North Uist travel guide from Wikivoyage
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57°36′N7°20′W / 57.600°N 7.333°W /57.600; -7.333
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