Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used asbase notes inperfumery. They includeglandular secretions from animals such as themusk deer, numerous plants emitting similar fragrances, and artificial substances with similarodors.[1][2]Musk was a name originally given to a substance with a strong odor obtained from agland of the musk deer. The substance has been used as a popular perfumefixative since ancient times and is one of the most expensiveanimal products in the world. The name originates from the Late Greek μόσχος 'moskhos', from Persianmushk andSanskrit मुष्क muṣka (lit. 'testicle')[3] derived fromProto-Indo-European nounmúh₂s meaning "mouse".[1][4] The deer gland was thought to resemble ascrotum. The term is applied to various plants and animals of similar smell (e.g.,muskox) and has come to encompass a wide variety of aromatic substances with similar odors, despite their often differingchemical structures and molecular shapes.
Natural musk was used extensively inperfumery until the late 19th century when economic and ethical motives led to the adoption ofsynthetic musk, which is now used almost exclusively.[5] Theorganic compound primarily responsible for the characteristic odor of musk ismuscone. There are several ways of preparing the commercial musk, and the best method is to dry the pod by sunning and airing immediately after it is taken from the animal. Natural musk is usually packed in hermetically-sealed vessels and wooden boxes lined with tin foil because of its powerful diffusion of odor.[6]
Modern use of natural musk pods occurs intraditional Chinese medicine which, save for specially exempt drugs, uses a synthetic version of undisclosed composition created in 1994. The process was givenState Science and Technology Progress Award First Class in 2015.[7]
The musk deer belongs to the familyMoschidae and lives inTibet,[8]India,Nepal,Pakistan,Afghanistan,China,Siberia,Mongolia,Manchuria,Korea andNorth Vietnam.
The musk pod, apreputial gland in a pouch, or sac, under the skin of the abdomen of the male musk deer, is normally obtained by killing the male deer through traps laid in the wild. Upon drying, the reddish-brown paste inside the musk pod turns into a blackgranular material called "musk grain", which is then tinctured with alcohol. The aroma of thetincture gives a pleasant odor only after it is considerablydiluted. No other natural substance has such a complex aroma associated with so many contradictory descriptions; it is usually described abstractly as animalistic, earthy and woody[5] or something akin to the odor of baby's skin.[9]
Musk has been a key constituent in many perfumes since its discovery, being held to give a perfume long-lasting power as a fixative. Today, the trade quantity of the natural musk is controlled by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), but illegalpoaching and trading continues.[9]
Muskrat (Ondatra zibethicus), a rodent native toNorth America, has been known since the 17th century to secrete a glandular substance with a musky odor.[10] A chemical means of extracting it was discovered in the 1940s, but it did not prove commercially worthwhile.[10]
Glandular substances with musk-like odors are also obtained from themusk duck (Biziura lobata) of southernAustralia, themuskox, themusk shrew, themusk beetle (Aromia moschata), theAfrican civet (Civettictis civetta), themusk turtle (Sternotherus odoratus), theAmerican alligator ofNorth America, lynx musk,lungurion which, in antiquity, was highly valued, and from several other animals.
Incrocodiles, there are two pairs of musk glands, one pair situated at the corner of the jaw and the other pair in thecloaca.[11]
Some plants such asAngelica archangelica orAbelmoschus moschatus produce musky-smelling macrocyclic lactone compounds. These compounds are widely used in perfumery as substitutes for animal musk or to alter the smell of a mixture of other musks.
The plant sources include the musk flower (Mimulus moschatus) of western North America, the muskwood (Olearia argophylla) of Australia, and the musk seeds (Abelmoschus moschatus) from India.
Since obtaining the deer musk requires killing theendangered animal, nearly all musk fragrance used in perfumery today is synthetic, sometimes called "white musk". They can be divided into three major classes: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds, and macrocyclic musk compounds.[5] The first two groups have broad uses in industry ranging fromcosmetics todetergents. The detection of the first two chemical groups in human and environmental samples as well as their carcinogenic properties initiated a public debate on the use of these compounds and a ban or reduction of their use in many regions of the world. Macrocyclic musk compounds are expected to replace them since these compounds appear to be safer.[5]
Musk is often associated with religious significance. It appears in Buddhist, Hindu and Sufi texts and poetry.[citation needed]Kabir uses a musk deer parable that describes a deer smelling a beautiful scent that it searches for everywhere, unaware that the fragrance comes from its own navel. This parable symbolizes people's mistaken search for God or truth outside when it already resides within.[12] InIslam, musk is considered to be the most fragrant of the scents. It was widely used by theIslamic prophetMuhammad and his companions.[13]Alexander the Great[14] is also said to have perspired the odor of musk.[15][16] Popular scents in Arab Muslim tradition includejasmine,amber, musk and oud (agarwood).[17]
Orchid paired with musk is a recurring scent combination associated with women's clothing and bedchambers in classicalvernacular Chinese literature.[18]
Musk has been used to attract wild animals, including in man-made perfume mixtures. For example, in 2018 Indian authorities used the perfumeObsession byCalvin Klein to attract and thus trap a wild tiger that had attacked and killed more than a dozen humans.[19]
Musk sticks, which are artificially flavoured with a substance that is reminiscent of musk perfume, are a popularconfection inAustralia.[20]
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link) This article incorporates text from a publication now in thepublic domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Musk".Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 19 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 90.