| Mount Marcus Baker | |
|---|---|
Mt. Marcus Baker centered at top | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 13,176 ft (4,016 m) NGVD 29[1] |
| Prominence | 10,726 ft (3,269 m)[1] |
| Listing | |
| Coordinates | 61°26′16″N147°45′02″W / 61.4377778°N 147.7505556°W /61.4377778; -147.7505556[2] |
| Geography | |
| Location | Matanuska-Susitna Borough, Alaska, U.S. |
| Parent range | Chugach Mountains |
| Topo map | USGS Anchorage B-3 Quadrangle |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 1938 byNorman Bright, Peter Gabriel,Norman Dyhrenfurth,Bradford Washburn |
| Easiest route | Snow/ice climb (Alaska grade 2) |
Mount Marcus Baker (Ahtna:Ts'itonhna Dghilaaye’;Dena'ina:Ch'atanhtnu Dghelaya) is the highest peak of theChugach Mountains ofAlaska. It is located approximately 75 miles (121 km) east of Anchorage. This peak is very prominent because of its proximity to tidewater and is only 12 miles (19 km) north of thecalving face ofHarvard Glacier. Mount Marcus Baker is ranked 67th in the world when measured bytopographic prominence.
Mount Marcus Baker was originally called "Mount Saint Agnes"; according toBradford Washburn,James W. Bagley of theUSGS named it after his wife Agnes, adding the "Saint" in hopes of making the name stick. The name was later changed to honor a cartographer and geologist namedMarcus Baker.[3]
The peak was first climbed on June 19, 1938 by a party led by famed explorerBradford Washburn; the climb took almost two months owing to weather delays. Today's standard route is the North Ridge. Despite being much lower in elevation thanDenali, Marcus Baker is a similarly serious ascent, due to the remoteness of the peak and resulting length of the approach and climb.[3] A number of noted climbers have perished or sustained permanent injury in attempting to summit the peak as climbing conditions can change rapidly as storms arise. In early 1988, a State of Alaska Fish and Game biologist, 28-year-old Sylvia Jean Lane, succumbed to hypothermia as a two-day storm separated her from the two others in the climbing party attempting to dash to the top in a winter ascent.