Its north peak was first climbed on August 6, 1934, and its higher south peak was climbed four days later on August 10, byCharles Houston,T. Graham Brown, and Chychele Waterston, via the west ridge.[3][4]
Mt. Foraker base campSunrise over Mt Foraker (17,400 feet)
Mount Foraker was named in 1899 by Lt. J. S. Herron afterJoseph B. Foraker, then a sitting U.S. Senator fromOhio.[5]
TheKoyukon native peoples in theLake Minchumina area had a broadside view of the mountains and thus gave distinctive names to both Foraker andDenali. According toHudson Stuck, the Koyukon had two names for Mount Foraker:Sultana meaning "the woman" andMenlale meaning "Denali's wife".[3] The Denaʼina of theSusitna River valley called the mountain Be'u meaning his wife (Denali) and the Lower Tanana Athabascans to the north are reported to have had the same name (Denali) for Mt. Foraker as they had for Denali (federally designated as Mount McKinley), and it appears that the names were not applied to individual peaks but instead to the Denali massif. The mountain, along with Denali, was calledBolshaya Gora ("big mountain") inRussian.[citation needed]
1963 Southeast Ridge. 2nd ascent. July 7. By Jim Richardson and Jeff Duenwald. Expedition led by Adams Carter.[7]
1968Talkeetna Ridge, South Ridge FA byAlex Bertulis, Warren Bleser, Hans Baer and Peter Williamson (US). The summit was reached on July 26, 1968. 4th ascent of peak.[8]
1974Southwest Toe of Southeast Ridge, variation to the South Ridge, ascent by Peter Reagan, Joe Davidson, Bob Fries, Jim Given, Mark Greenfield, Pippo Lionni, Eric Morgan and Frank Uher.[9]
1975Archangel Ridge, the north ridge, FA by Gerard and Barbara Roach, Brad Johnson, David Wright, Stewart Krebs and Charles Campbell. Summit reached on July 14, 1975. Subsequently skied.[10]
1976French Ridge, the South/Southeast Ridge, FA by Henri Agresti, Jean-Marie Galmiche, Gerard Creton, Herve Thivierge, Isabelle Agresti (all France) and Werner Landry (US). Summit reached on June 3 and 4, 1976.[11]
1977Southwest Ridge, Nancey Goforth, Erik LeRoy, Chris Liddle, and Murray Marvin. The summit was reached on June 25, 1977, after 47 days spent on Mount Foraker.[13]
1984Pink Panther Route Daniel Vachon, Jean Francois Gagnon, Julien Dery (Canada)and Graham Sanders (Australia). Climbing the obvious S-shaped couloir in the middle of the East face to reach directly above the buttress and straight up to the S.E. ridge. Summit reached on May 25, 1984. From May 21 to May 27.[14]
1989Infinite Spur, second ascent or route by Mark Bebie and Jim Nelson (US). Summit reached on June 24, 1989, after 13 days on the mountain.[15]
1990False Dawn, on the southeast face, first ascent by John Phelan (US) and David Sharman (UK). Summit reached on May 27, 1990, after 5 days on the mountain.[16]
2016Infinite Spur, first solo ascent and fastest ascent to date, byColin Haley. Ascent time was 12:29 from the bergschrund to summit. The descent was completed in a whiteout via the Sultana Ridge over the ensuing 48 hours.[17]
Mt Foraker, on the left, is 3,000' shorter thanDenali on the right, but appears taller in this image due toforeshortening. Photo taken from Kashwitna Lake roughly 100 miles (160 km) south of the mountains.Mt Hunter is just to the left of Denali.
^Roach, Gerard (1976). "The Archangel - Foraker's North Ridge".American Alpine Journal.20 (50). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 277.ISBN978-0-930410-73-5.
^Bleser, Warren; Bertulis, Alex (1969). "Mount Foraker's South Ridge".American Alpine Journal.16 (43). Philadelphia, PA, USA: American Alpine Club:289–294.
^Reagan, Peter (1975). "Mount Foraker, Southeast Ridge".American Alpine Journal.20 (49). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 116.
^Roach, Gerard (1976). "The Archangel - Foraker's North Ridge".American Alpine Journal.20 (50). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club:277–284.ISBN978-0-930410-73-5.
^Agresti, Henri (1977). "Mount Foraker, South-Southeast Ridge".American Alpine Journal.21 (51). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club:149–152.
^Selters, Andy (2004).Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club Press. p. 263.ISBN0-930410-83-1.
^LeRoy, Erik (1978). "Foraker's Southwest Ridge".American Alpine Journal.21 (52). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club:359–365.
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