^TheHigh Commission for Planning defines the city of Marrakesh as comprising the municipality of Méchouar-Kasba and the fivearrondissements of Annakhil, Gueliz, Marrakech-Médina, Ménara and Sidi Youssef Ben Ali.[2]
The city was founded circa 1070 byAbu Bakr ibn Umar as the capital of theAlmoravid dynasty. The Almoravids established the first major structures in the city and shaped its layout for centuries to come. The redwalls of the city, built byAli ibn Yusuf in 1122–1123, and various buildings constructed in red sandstone afterwards, have given the city the nickname of the "Red City" or "Ochre City". Marrakesh grew rapidly and established itself as a cultural, religious, and trading center for theMaghreb. After a period of decline, Marrakesh regained its status in the early 16th century as the capital of theSaadian dynasty, with sultansAbdallah al-Ghalib andAhmad al-Mansur embellishing the city with an array of sumptuous monuments. Beginning in the 17th century, the city became popular amongSufi pilgrims for itsseven patron saints who are buried here. In 1912, theFrench Protectorate in Morocco was established andT'hami El Glaoui became Pasha of Marrakesh and generally held this position until the independence of Morocco and the reestablishment of the monarchy in 1956.
Marrakesh comprises an old fortified city packed with vendors and their stalls. Thismedina quarter is aUNESCO World Heritage Site and contains theJemaa el-Fnaa square, a large number ofsouks (markets), theKutubiyya Mosque, and many other historic and cultural sites. The city serves as a major economic center and tourist destination. Real estate and hotel development in Marrakesh have grown dramatically in the 21st century. Marrakesh is particularly popular with the French, and numerous French celebrities own property in the city.
The exact meaning of the name is debated.[4] One possible origin of the name Marrakesh is from theBerber (Amazigh) wordsamur (n) akush, which means "Land of God".[5] According to historian Susan Searight, however, the town's name was first documented in an 11th-century manuscript in theQarawiyyin library inFez, where its meaning was given as "country of the sons of Kush".[6] The wordmur[7] is used now in Berber mostly in the feminine formtamurt. The same word "mur" appears inMauretania, the North African kingdom from antiquity, although the link remains controversial as this name possibly originates from μαύροςmauros, theancient Greek word for "dark".[4] The common English spelling is "Marrakesh",[8][9] although "Marrakech" (theFrench spelling) is also widely used.[5] The name is spelledMṛṛakc in theBerber Latin alphabet,Marraquexe inPortuguese,Marrakech in Spanish.[10] A typical pronunciation inMoroccan Arabic ismerrākesh (/mərra:kəʃ/) withstress on the second syllable.[11]
From medieval times until around the beginning of the 20th century, the entire country of Morocco was known as the "Kingdom of Marrakesh", as the kingdom'shistoric capital city was often Marrakesh.[12][13] The name for Morocco is still "Marrakesh" to this day inPersian andUrdu as well as many other South Asian languages. Various European names for Morocco (Marruecos, Marrocos, Maroc, Marokko, etc.) are directly derived from the nameMurrākush. Conversely, the city itself was in earlier times simply calledMarocco City (or similar) by travelers from abroad. The name of the city and the country diverged after theTreaty of Fez divided Morocco into aFrench protectorate in Morocco andSpanish protectorate in Morocco, and the old interchangeable usage lasted widely until about the interregnum ofMohammed Ben Aarafa (1953–1955).[14] The latter episode set in motion the country's return to independence, when Morocco officially becameالمملكة المغربية (al-Mamlaka al-Maġribiyya, "The Maghreb Kingdom"), its name no longer referring to the city of Marrakesh. Marrakesh is known by a variety of nicknames, including the "Red City" (Arabic:المدينة الحمراء,romanized: Al-madīnat al-ḥamrā'), the "Ochre City" and "the Daughter of the Desert", and has been the focus of poetic analogies such as one comparing the city to "a drum that beats anAfrican identity into the complex soul of Morocco."[15]
The Marrakesh area was inhabited byBerber farmers fromNeolithic times, and numerous stone implements have been unearthed in the area.[6] Marrakesh was founded byAbu Bakr ibn Umar, chieftain and second cousin of theAlmoravid kingYusuf ibn Tashfin (c. 1061–1106).[16][17] Historical sources cite a variety of dates for this event ranging between 1062 (454 in theHijri calendar), according toIbn Abi Zar andIbn Khaldun, and 1078 (470 AH), according toMuhammad al-Idrisi.[18] The date most commonly used by modern historians is 1070,[19] although 1062 is still cited by some writers.[20]
The Almoravids, a Berber dynasty seeking to reform Islamic society, ruled anemirate stretching from the edge ofSenegal to the centre ofSpain and from the Atlantic coast toAlgiers.[21] They used Marrakesh as their capital and established its first structures, including mosques and a fortified residence, the Ksar al-Hajjar, near the present-dayKutubiyya Mosque.[22] These Almoravid foundations also influenced the layout and urban organization of the city for centuries to come. For example, the present-dayJemaa el-Fnaa originated from a public square in front of the Almoravid palace gates, theRahbat al-Ksar,[23][24] and the major souks (markets) of the city developed roughly in the area between this square and the city's main mosque, where they remain today.[25] The city developed the community into a trading centre for theMaghreb and sub-Saharan Africa.[26] It grew rapidly and established itself as a cultural and religious centre, supplantingAghmat, which had long been the capital ofHaouz.Andalusi craftsmen fromCordoba andSeville built and decorated numerous monuments, importing theCordoban Umayyad style characterised by carved domes andcusped arches.[6][27] This Andalusian influence merged with designs from the Sahara and West Africa, creating a unique style of architecture which was fully adapted to the Marrakesh environment. Yusuf ibn Tashfin built houses, minted coins, and brought gold and silver to the city in caravans.[6] His son and successor,Ali Ibn Yusuf, built theBen Youssef Mosque, the city's main mosque, between 1120 and 1132.[28][29] He also fortified the city withcity walls for the first time in 1126–1127 and expanded its water supply by creating the underground water system known as thekhettara.[30][31]
In 1125, the preacherIbn Tumart settled inTin Mal in the mountains to the south of Marrakesh, founding theAlmohad movement. This new faction, composed mainly ofMasmuda tribesmen, followed adoctrine of radical reform with Ibn Tumart as themahdi, a messianic figure. He preached against the Almoravids and influenced a revolt which succeeded in bringing about the fall of nearbyAghmat, but stopped short of bringing down Marrakesh following anunsuccessful siege in 1130.[6] Ibn Tumart died shortly after in the same year, but his successorAbd al-Mu'min took over the political leadership of the movement andcaptured Marrakesh in 1147 after a siege of several months.[32] The Almohads purged the Almoravid population over three days and established the city as their new capital.[33] They went on to take over much of the Almoravids' former territory in Africa and theIberian Peninsula. In 1147, shortly after the city's conquest, Abd al-Mu'min founded the Kutubiyya Mosque (or Koutoubia Mosque), next to the former Almoravid palace, to serve as the city's new main mosque.[34] The Almoravid mosques were either demolished or abandoned as the Almohads enacted their religious reforms.[33] Abd al-Mu'min was also responsible for establishing theMenara Gardens in 1157, while his successorAbu Ya'qub Yusuf (r. 1163–1184) began theAgdal Gardens.[35][36]Ya'qub al-Mansur (r. 1184–1199), possibly on the orders of his father Abu Ya'qub Yusuf, was responsible for building theKasbah, a citadel and palace district on the south side of the city.[37][38] The Kasbah housed the center of government and the residence of thecaliph, a title borne by the Almohad rulers to rival the easternAbbasid Caliphate. In part because of these various additions, the Almohads also improved the water supply system and created water reservoirs to irrigate their gardens.[39] Thanks to its economic, political, and cultural importance, Marrakesh hosted many writers, artists, and intellectuals, many of them fromAl-Andalus, including the famous philosopherAverroes ofCordoba.[40][41]
Detail of theCantiga de Santa Maria #181. The cantiga #181 depicts the successful 1261–62 defence of Marrakesh by Almohad rulerAl-Murtada (with help from Christian militias) from the siege laid on by Marinid rulerAbu Yusuf.[42]
The death ofYusuf II in 1224 began a period of instability. Marrakesh became the stronghold of the Almohad tribal sheikhs and theahl ad-dar (descendants ofIbn Tumart), who sought to claw power back from the ruling Almohad family. Marrakesh was taken, lost and retaken by force multiple times by a stream of caliphs and pretenders, such as during the brutal seizure of Marrakesh by the Sevillan caliphAbd al-Wahid II al-Ma'mun in 1226, which was followed by a massacre of the Almohad tribal sheikhs and their families and a public denunciation of Ibn Tumart's doctrines by the caliph from the pulpit of theKasbah Mosque.[43] After al-Ma'mun's death in 1232, his widow attempted to forcibly install her son, acquiring the support of the Almohad army chiefs and Spanish mercenaries with the promise to hand Marrakesh over to them for thesack. Hearing of the terms, the people of Marrakesh sought to make an agreement with the military captains and saved the city from destruction with a sizable payoff of 500,000 dinars.[43] In 1269, Marrakesh was conquered by the Marinids, a Zenata tribe who overran the Almohads in Morocco. While Marrakesh remained a major city, it lost its capital status to Fez and underwent a period of relative decline.[12]
In the early 16th century, Marrakesh again became the capital of Morocco. After a period when it was the seat of theHintata emirs, it reestablished its status during the reigns of theSaadian sultansAbdallah al-Ghalib andAhmad al-Mansur.[44][45] Under the Saadian dynasty, Marrakesh experienced a new golden age.[46][47] Thanks to the wealth amassed by the sultans, it was embellished with sumptuous palaces while its ruined monuments were restored.El Badi Palace, begun by Ahmad al-Mansur in 1578, was made with costly materials including marble from Italy.[48][49] The palace was intended primarily for hosting lavish receptions for ambassadors from Spain, England, and the Ottoman Empire, showcasing Saadian Morocco as a nation whose power and influence reached as far as the borders ofNiger andMali.[50]
Litography depicting the city of Marrakesh, in 1860 byÉvremond de Bérard.
For centuries Marrakesh has been known as the location of the tombs of Morocco'sseven patron saints (sebaatou rizjel). Whensufism was at the height of its popularity during the late 17th-century reign ofMoulay Ismail, the festival of these saints was founded byAbu Ali al-Hassan al-Yusi at the request of the sultan.[51] The tombs of several renowned figures were moved to Marrakesh to attract pilgrims, and the pilgrimage associated with the seven saints is now a firmly established institution. Pilgrims visit the tombs of the saints in a specific order, as follows:Sidi Yusuf Ali Sanhaji (1196–97), a leper;Qadi Iyyad orqadi ofCeuta (1083–1149), a theologian and author ofAsh-Shifa (treatises on the virtues ofMuhammad);Sidi Bel Abbas (1130–1204), known as the patron saint of the city and most revered in the region;Sidi Muhammad al-Jazuli (1465), a well known Sufi who founded the Jazuli brotherhood;Abdelaziz al-Tebaa (1508), a student of al-Jazuli;Abdallah al-Ghazwani (1528), known as Moulay al-Ksour; andSidi Abu al-Qasim Al-Suhayli, (1185), also known as Imam al-Suhayli.[52][53] Until 1867, European Christians were not authorized to enter the city unless they acquired special permission from the sultan; east European Jews were permitted.[13]
During the early 20th century, Marrakesh underwent several years of unrest. After the premature death in 1900 of the grand vizierBa Ahmed, who had been designated regent until the designated sultanAbd al-Aziz became of age, the country was plagued by anarchy, tribal revolts, the plotting of feudal lords, and European intrigues. In 1907, Marrakesh caliphMoulay Abd al-Hafid was proclaimed sultan by the powerful tribes of the High Atlas and byUlama scholars who denied the legitimacy of his brother, Abd al-Aziz.[54] It was also in 1907 that Dr. Mauchamp, a French doctor, was murdered in Marrakesh, suspected of spying for his country.[55] France used the event as a pretext for sending its troops from the eastern Moroccan town ofOujda to the major metropolitan center of Casablanca in the west. The French colonial army encountered strong resistance fromAhmed al-Hiba, a son of SheikhMa al-'Aynayn, who arrived from the Sahara accompanied by his nomadic Reguibat tribal warriors. On 30 March 1912, the French Protectorate in Morocco was established.[56] After theBattle of Sidi Bou Othman, which saw the victory of the French Mangin column over the al-Hiba forces in September 1912, the French seized Marrakesh. The conquest was facilitated by the rallying of the Imzwarn tribes and their leaders from the powerful Glaoui family, leading to a massacre of Marrakesh citizens in the resulting turmoil.[57]
T'hami El Glaoui, known as "Lord of the Atlas", became Pasha of Marrakesh, a post he held virtually throughout the 44-year duration of the Protectorate (1912–1956).[58] Glaoui dominated the city and became famous for his collaboration with the general residence authorities, culminating in a plot to dethrone Mohammed Ben Youssef (Mohammed V) and replace him with the Sultan's cousin,Ben Arafa.[58] Glaoui, already known for his amorous adventures and lavish lifestyle, became a symbol of Morocco's colonial order. He could not, however, subdue the rise of nationalist sentiment, nor the hostility of a growing proportion of the inhabitants. Nor could he resist pressure from France, who agreed to terminate its Moroccan Protectorate in 1956 due to the launch of theAlgerian War (1954–1962) immediately following the end of thewar inIndochina (1946–1954), in which Moroccans had been conscripted to fight inVietnam on behalf of the French Army. After two successive exiles toCorsica andMadagascar, Mohammed Ben Youssef was allowed to return to Morocco in November 1955, bringing an end to the despotic rule of Glaoui over Marrakesh and the surrounding region. A protocol giving independence to Morocco was then signed on 2 March 1956 between French Foreign Minister Christian Pineau and M’Barek Ben Bakkai.[59]
The Gueliz district in Marrakech, was established outside the old city during theFrench Protectorate period (after 1912)
Since the independence of Morocco, Marrakesh has thrived as a tourist destination. In the 1960s and early 1970s, the city became a trendy "hippie mecca". It attracted numerous western rock stars and musicians, artists, film directors and actors, models, and fashion divas,[60] leading tourism revenues to double in Morocco between 1965 and 1970.[61]Yves Saint Laurent,The Beatles,The Rolling Stones andJean-Paul Getty all spent significant time in the city; Laurent bought a property here and renovated the Majorelle Gardens.[62][63] Expatriates, especially those from France, have invested heavily in Marrakesh since the 1960s and developed many of theriads and palaces.[62] Over the following decades, the demographic importance of the historic medina declined, due to much of it being converted from residential housing to commercial properties as well as due to the general expansion of the city beyond its traditional areas. In 1984, about 51% of the city's population lived in the medina, whereas only 22% did in 2004.[64]
United Nations agencies became active in Marrakesh beginning in the 1970s, and the city's international political presence has subsequently grown. In 1985,UNESCO declared the old town area of Marrakesh aUNESCO World Heritage Site, raising international awareness of the cultural heritage of the city.[65] In the 1980s,Patrick Guerand-Hermes purchased the 30 acres (12 ha)Ain el Quassimou, built by the family ofLeo Tolstoy.[63] On 15 April 1994, theMarrakesh Agreement was signed here to establish theWorld Trade Organisation,[66] and in March 1997 Marrakesh served as the site of theWorld Water Council's first World Water Forum, which was attended by over 500 international participants.[67]
In winter, theAtlas Mountains are typically covered in snow and ice.
The city is located in theTensift River valley,[74] with the Tensift River passing along the northern edge of the city. TheOurika River valley is about 30 kilometres (19 mi) south of Marrakesh.[75] The city has expanded north from the old centre with suburbs such as Daoudiat, Diour El Massakine, Sidi Abbad, Sakar and Amerchich, to the southeast with Sidi Youssef Ben Ali, to the west with Massira and Targa, and southwest to M'hamid beyond the airport.[76] On the P2017 road leading south out of the city are large villages such asDouar Lahna,Touggana,Lagouassem, andLahebichate, leading eventually through desert to the town ofTahnaout at the edge of theHigh Atlas, the highest mountainous barrier in North Africa.[76] The average elevation of the snow-covered High Atlas lies above 3,000 metres (9,800 ft). It is mainly composed ofJurassiclimestone. The mountain range runs along the Atlantic coast, then rises to the east of Agadir and extends northeast into Algeria before disappearing intoTunisia.[77]
Marrakesh features ahot semi-arid climate (Köppen climate classificationBSh) with long, hot dry summers and brief, mild to cool winters. Average temperatures range from 12 °C (54 °F) in the winter to 26–30 °C (79–86 °F) in the summer.[78] The relatively wet winter and dry summer precipitation pattern of Marrakesh mirrors precipitation patterns found inMediterranean climates. However, the city receives less rain than is typically found in a Mediterranean climate, resulting in a semi-arid climate classification.
Between 1961 and 1990 the city averaged 281.3 millimetres (11.1 in) of precipitation annually.[78] Barrows says of the climate, "The region of Marrakesh is frequently described as desert in character, but, to one familiar with thesouthwestern parts of the United States, the locality does not suggest the desert, rather an area of seasonal rainfall, where moisture moves underground rather than by surface streams, and where low brush takes the place of the forests of more heavily watered regions. The location of Marrakesh on the north side of theAtlas, rather than the south, prevents it from being described as a desert city, and it remains the northern focus of the Saharan lines of communication, and its history, its types of dwellers, and its commerce and arts, are all related to the great south Atlas spaces that reach further into theSahara desert."[79]
Source 2:Deutscher Wetterdienst (record highs for February, April, May, September and November, and humidity),[82] Meteo Climat (record highs and record lows for June, July and August only)[83]
A 2019 paper published inPLOS One estimated that underRepresentative Concentration Pathway 4.5, a "moderate" scenario ofclimate change where global warming reaches ~2.5–3 °C (4.5–5.4 °F) by 2100, the climate of Marrakesh in the year 2050 would most closely resemble the current climate ofBir Lehlou inWestern Sahara. The annual temperature would increase by 2.9 °C (5.2 °F), and the temperature of the coldest month by 1.6 °C (2.9 °F), while the temperature of the warmest month would increase by 7 °C (13 °F).[85][86] According toClimate Action Tracker, the current warming trajectory appears consistent with 2.7 °C (4.9 °F), which closely matches RCP 4.5.[87]
Marrakesh's water supply relies partly on groundwater resources, which have lowered gradually over the last 40 years, attaining an acute decline in the early 2000s. Since 2002, groundwater levels have dropped by an average of 0.9 m per year in 80% of Marrakesh and its surrounding area. The most affected area experienced a drop of 37 m (more than 2 m per year).[88]
According to the 2014 census, the population of Marrakesh was 928,850 against 843,575 in 2004. The number of households in 2014 was 217,245 against 173,603 in 2004.[89][90]
Marrakesh is a vital component of the economy and culture of Morocco.[91] Improvements to the highways from Marrakesh to Casablanca, Agadir and the local airport have led to a dramatic increase in tourism in the city, which now attracts over two million tourists annually. Because of the importance of tourism to Morocco's economy,King Mohammed VI vowed in 2012 to double the number of tourists, attracting 20 million a year to Morocco by 2020.[92] The city is popular with the French, and many French celebrities have bought property in the city, including fashion mogulsYves St Laurent andJean-Paul Gaultier.[93] In the 1990s very few foreigners lived in the city, and real estate developments have dramatically increased in the last 15 years; by 2005 over 3,000 foreigners had purchased properties in the city, lured by its culture and the relatively cheap house prices.[93] It has been cited in French weekly magazineLe Point as the secondSt Tropez: "No longer simply a destination for a scattering of adventurous elites, bohemians or backpackers seeking Arabian Nights fantasies, Marrakech is becoming a desirable stopover for the European jet set."[93] However, despite the tourism boom, the majority of the city's inhabitants are still poor, and as of 2010[update], some 20,000 households still have no access to water or electricity.[94] Many enterprises in the city are facing colossal debt problems.[94]
After theGreat Recession and the2008 financial crisis, in 2011, investments in real estate progressed substantially both in the area of tourist accommodation and social housing. The main developments have been in facilities for tourists including hotels and leisure centres such as golf courses and health spas, with investments of 10.9 billion dirham (US$1.28 billion) in 2011.[95][96] The hotel infrastructure in recent years has experienced rapid growth. In 2012, alone, 19 new hotels were scheduled to open, a development boom often compared toDubai.[92]Royal Ranches Marrakech, one ofGulf Finance House's flagship projects in Morocco, is a 380 hectares (940 acres) resort under development in the suburbs and one of the world's first five star Equestrian Resorts.[97] The resort is expected to make a significant contribution to the local and national economy, creating many jobs and attracting thousands of visitors annually; as of April 2012 it was about 45% complete.[98]The Avenue Mohammed VI, formerly Avenue de France, is a major city thoroughfare. It has seen rapid development of residential complexes and many luxury hotels. Avenue Mohammed VI contains what is claimed to be Africa's largestnightclub:[99]Pacha Marrakech, a trendy club that playshouse andelectro house music.[100] It also has two large cinema complexes, Le Colisée à Gueliz and Cinéma Rif, and a new shopping precinct, Al Mazar.[101]
Trade and crafts are extremely important to the local tourism-fueled economy. There are 18souks in Marrakesh, employing over 40,000 people in pottery, copperware, leather and other crafts. Thesouks contain a massive range of items from plastic sandals to Palestinian-style scarves imported from India or China. Local boutiques are adept at making western-style clothes using Moroccan materials.[93] TheBirmingham Post comments: "Thesouk offers an incredible shopping experience with a myriad of narrow winding streets that lead through a series of smaller markets clustered by trade. Through the squawking chaos of the poultry market, the gory fascination of the open-air butchers' shops and the uncountable number of small and specialist traders, just wandering around the streets can pass an entire day."[91] Marrakesh has several supermarkets includingMarjane Acima,Asswak Salam andCarrefour, and three major shopping centres, Al Mazar Mall, Plaza Marrakech and Marjane Square; a branch of Carrefour opened in Al Mazar Mall in 2010.[102][103] Industrial production in the city is centred in the neighbourhood of Sidi Ghanem Al Massar, containing large factories, workshops, storage depots and showrooms. Ciments Morocco, a subsidiary of a major Italian cement firm, has a factory in Marrakech.[104]
Marrakesh is one of North Africa's largest centers of wildlife trade, despite the illegality of most of this trade.[105] Much of this trade can be found in the medina and adjacent squares. Tortoises are particularly popular for sale as pets, and Barbary macaques and snakes can also be seen.[106][107] The majority of these animals suffer from poor welfare conditions in these stalls.[108]
Marrakesh, the regional capital, constitutes a prefecture-level administrative unit of Morocco,Marrakech Prefecture, forming part of the region ofMarrakech-Safi. Marrakesh is a major centre for law and jurisdiction in Morocco and most of the major courts of the region are here. These include the regional Court of Appeal, the Commercial Court, the Administrative Court, the Court of First Instance, the Court of Appeal of Commerce, and the Administrative Court of Appeal.[109] Numerous organizations of the region are based here, including the regional government administrative offices, the Regional Council of Tourism office, and regional public maintenance organisations such as the Governed Autonomous Water Supply and Electricity andMaroc Telecom.[110]
On 12 June 2009,Fatima-Zahra Mansouri, a then 33-year-old lawyer and daughter of a former assistant to the local authority chief in Marrakesh, was elected the first female mayor of the city, defeating outgoing MayorOmar Jazouli by 54 votes to 35 in a municipal council vote.[111][112] Mansouri became the second woman in the history of Morocco to obtain a mayoral position, afterAsma Chaabi, mayor ofEssaouira[111] and was elected to serve as Marrakech's mayor for a second term in September 2021.[113]
Since the legislative elections in November 2011, the ruling political party in Marrakesh has, for the first time, been theJustice and Development Party or PDJ which also rules at the national level. The party, which advocatesIslamism andIslamic democracy, won five seats; theNational Rally of Independents (RNI) took one seat, while the PAM won three.[114] In the partial legislative elections for the Guéliz Ennakhil constituency in October 2012, the PDJ under the leadership ofAhmed El Moutassadik was again declared the winner with 10,452 votes. The PAM, largely consisting of friends of KingMohammed VI, came in second place with 9,794 votes.[115]
TheJemaa el-Fnaa is one of the best-known squares in Africa and is the centre of city activity and trade. It has been described as a "world-famous square", "a metaphorical urban icon, a bridge between the past and the present, the place where (spectacularized) Moroccan tradition encounters modernity."[116] It has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage site since 1985.[117] The square's name has several possible meanings; the most plausible etymology endorsed by historians is that it meant "ruined mosque" or "mosque of annihilation", referring to the construction of a mosque within the square in the late 16th century that was left unfinished and fell into ruin.[118][119][120] The square was originally an open space for markets located on the east side of theKsar el-Hajjar, the main fortress and palace of the Almoravid dynasty who founded Marrakesh.[23][53]
Historically this square was used for public executions by rulers who sought to maintain their power by frightening the public. The square attracted dwellers from the surrounding desert and mountains to trade here, and stalls were raised in the square from early in its history. It drew tradesmen, snake charmers, dancing boys, and musicians playingpipes,tambourines andAfrican drums.[121] Today the square attracts people from diverse backgrounds and tourists from all around the world. Snake charmers, acrobats, magicians, mystics, musicians, monkey trainers, herb sellers, story-tellers, dentists, pickpockets, and entertainers in medieval garb still populate the square.[117][122]
Marrakesh has the largest traditional market in Morocco and the image of the city is closely associated with itssouks. Historically, the souks of Marrakesh were divided into retail areas for particular goods such as leather, carpets, metalwork and pottery. These divisions still roughly exist, though with significant overlap. Many of the souks sell items like carpets and rugs, traditional Muslim attire, leather bags, and lanterns.[123]Haggling is still a very important part of trade in the souks.[124]
The Medina is also famous for its street food. Mechoui Alley is particularly famous for selling slow-roasted lamb dishes.[125] TheEnsemble Artisanal, located near the Koutoubia Mosque, is a government-run complex of small arts and crafts which offers a range of leather goods, textiles and carpets. Young apprentices are taught a range of crafts in the workshop at the back of this complex.[126]
The ramparts of Marrakesh, which stretch for some 19 kilometres (12 mi) around the medina of the city, were built by the Almoravids in the 12th century as protective fortifications. The walls are made of a distinct orange-red clay and chalk, giving the city its nickname as the "red city"; they stand up to 19 feet (5.8 m) high and have 20 gates and 200 towers along them.[127]
Of the city's gates, one of the best-known isBab Agnaou, built in the late 12th century by the Almohad caliph Ya'qub al-Mansur as the main public entrance to the newKasbah.[128][129] The gate's carved floral ornamentation is framed by three panels marked with an inscription from theQuran inMaghrebi script using foliatedKufic letters.[130] The medina has at least eight main historic gates:Bab Doukkala,Bab el-Khemis,Bab ad-Debbagh, Bab Aylan,Bab Aghmat,Bab er-Robb, Bab el-Makhzen and Bab el-'Arissa. These date back to the 12th century during the Almoravid period and many of them have been modified since.[131][53]
The city is home to a number of gardens, both historical and modern. The largest and oldest gardens in the city are theMenara Gardens to the west and theAgdal Gardens to the south. The Menara Gardens were established in 1157 by the Almohad ruler Abd al-Mu'min.[132][36] They are centered around a large water reservoir surrounded byorchards andolive groves. A 19th-century pavilion stands at the edge of the reservoir. The Agdal Gardens were established during the reign of Abu Ya'qub Yusuf (r. 1163–1184) and extend over a larger area today, containing several water basins and palace structures.[36] The Agdal Gardens cover about 340 hectares (1.3 sq mi) and are surrounded by a circuit of pisé walls,[133] while the Menara Gardens cover around 96 hectares (0.37 sq mi).[132] The water reservoirs for both gardens were supplied with water through an old hydraulic system known askhettaras, which conveyed water from the foothills of the nearby Atlas Mountains.[134][135]
TheMajorelle Garden, on Avenue Yacoub el Mansour, was at one time the home of the landscape painterJacques Majorelle. Famed designer Yves Saint Laurent bought and restored the property, which features astele erected in his memory,[136] and the Museum of Islamic Art, which is housed in a dark blue building.[137] The garden, open to the public since 1947, has a large collection of plants from five continents includingcacti, palms and bamboo.[138]
The Koutoubia Mosque is also flanked by another set of gardens, the Koutoubia Gardens. They feature orange and palm trees, and are frequented by storks.[139] The Mamounia Gardens, more than 100 years old and named after Prince Moulay Mamoun, have olive and orange trees as well as a variety of floral displays.[140] In 2016,[141] at a location between the city and the Atlas Mountains, artistAndré Heller opened the ANIMA garden, which combines a diverse collection of plants with a display of works by famous artists such asKeith Haring andPablo Picasso.[142] In the same year, a large restoredriad garden set within a historical mansion, located inside the medina, was opened to visitors asLe Jardin Secret ('The Secret Garden').[142]
The historic wealth of the city is manifested in palaces, mansions and other lavish residences. The best-known palaces today are theEl Badi Palace and theBahia Palace, as well as the mainRoyal Palace which is still in use as one of the official residences of the King of Morocco.Riads (Moroccan mansions, historically designating a type of garden[53]) are common in Marrakesh. Based on the design of the Roman villa, they are characterized by an open central garden courtyard surrounded by high walls. This construction provided the occupants with privacy and lowered the temperature within the building.[143] Numerous riads and historic residences exist through the old city, with the oldest documented examples dating back to the Saadian period (16th-17th centuries), while many others date from the 19th and 20th centuries.[45][53]
TheKoutoubia Mosque is one of the largest and most famous mosques in the city, located southwest of Jemaa el-Fnaa. The mosque was founded in 1147 by the Almohad caliph Abd al-Mu'min. A second version of the mosque was entirely rebuilt by Abd al-Mu'min around 1158, withYa'qub al-Mansur possibly finalizing construction of theminaret around 1195.[128] This second mosque is the structure that stands today. It is considered a major example ofAlmohad architecture and ofMoroccan mosque architecture generally.[128] Itsminaret tower, the tallest in the city at 77 metres (253 ft) in height, is considered an important landmark and symbol of Marrakesh.[144][145] It likely influenced other buildings such as theGiralda ofSeville and theHassan Tower ofRabat.[129][146][21][147]
Ben Youssef Mosque is named after the Almoravid sultan Ali ibn Yusuf, who built the original mosque in the 12th century to serve as the city's mainFriday mosque.[148] After being abandoned during the Almohad period and falling into ruin, it was rebuilt in the 1560s byAbdallah al-Ghalib and then completely rebuilt againMoulay Sliman at the beginning of the 19th century.[149] The 16th-century Ben Youssef Madrasa is located next to it. Also next to it is theAlmoravid Qubba, a rare architectural remnant of the Almoravid period which was excavated and restored in the 20th century. It is a domed kiosk that demonstrates a sophisticated style and is an important indication of the art andarchitecture of the period.[150][129]
TheKasbah Mosque overlooks Place Moulay Yazid in theKasbah district of Marrakesh, close to the El Badi Palace. It was built by the Almohad caliph Yaqub al-Mansour in the late 12th century to serve as themain mosque of thekasbah (citadel) where he and his high officials resided.[151] It contended with the Koutoubia Mosque for prestige and the decoration of its minaret was highly influential in subsequent Moroccan architecture.[152] The mosque was repaired by the Saadi sultanMoulay Abdallah al-Ghalib following a devastating explosion at a nearby gunpowder reserve in the second half of the 16th century.[153] Notably, theSaadian Tombs were built just outside its southern wall in this period.[154]
Among the other notable mosques of the city is the 14th-centuryBen Salah Mosque, located east of the medina centre. It is one of the only major Marinid-era monuments in the city.[155] TheMouassine Mosque (also known as the Al Ashraf Mosque) was built by the Saadian sultan Abdallah al-Ghalib between 1562–63 and 1572–73.[156] It was part of a larger architectural complex which included a library,hammam (public bathhouse), and amadrasa (school). The complex also included a large ornate street fountain known as theMouassine Fountain, which still exists today.[156][157] TheBab Doukkala Mosque, built around the same time further west, has a similar layout and style as the Mouassine Mosque. Both the Mouassine and Bab Doukkala mosques appear to have been originally designed to anchor the development of new neighbourhoods after the relocation of the Jewish district from this area to the newmellah near the Kasbah.[156][158][159]
One of the most famous funerary monuments in the city is theSaadian Tombs, which were built in the 16th century as a royal necropolis for the Saadian Dynasty. It is located next to the south wall of the Kasbah Mosque. The necropolis contains the tombs of many Saadian rulers includingMuhammad al-Shaykh, Abdallah al-Ghalib, andAhmad al-Mansur, as well as various family members and later sultans.[154] It consists of two main structures, each with several rooms, standing within a garden enclosure. The most important graves are marked by horizontal tombstones of finely carved marble, while others are merely covered in colorfulzellij tiles. Al-Mansur's mausoleum chamber is especially rich in decoration, with a roof of carved and painted cedar wood supported on twelve columns ofcarrara marble, and with walls decorated withgeometric patterns inzellij tilework andvegetal motifs in carvedstucco. The chamber next to it, originally a prayer room equipped with amihrab, was later repurposed as a mausoleum for members of theAlawi dynasty.[154][160]
TheMellah of Marrakesh is the old Jewish Quarter (Mellah) of the city, and is located in the kasbah area of the city's medina, east of Place des Ferblantiers. It was created in 1558 by the Saadians at the site where the sultan's stables were.[165] At the time, the Jewish community consisted of a large portion of the city's tailors, metalworkers, bankers, jewelers, and sugar traders. During the 16th century, the Mellah had its own fountains, gardens, synagogues and souks. Until the arrival of the French in 1912, Jews could not own property outside of the Mellah; all growth was consequently contained within the limits of the neighborhood, resulting in narrow streets, small shops and higher residential buildings. The Mellah, today reconfigured as a mainly residential zone renamed Hay Essalam, currently occupies an area smaller than its historic limits and has an almost entirely Muslim population. TheSlat al-Azama Synagogue (or Lazama Synagogue), built around a central courtyard, is in the Mellah.[166] TheJewish cemetery here is the largest of its kind in Morocco. Characterized by white-washed tombs and sandy graves,[166] the cemetery is within the Medina on land adjacent to the Mellah.[167] According to theWorld Jewish Congress there were only 250Moroccan Jews remaining in Marrakesh.[168]
As one of the principal tourist cities in Africa, Marrakesh has over 400 hotels.Mamounia Hotel is a five-star hotel in theArt Deco-Moroccan fusion style, built in 1925 byHenri Prost and A. Marchis.[169] It is considered the most eminent hotel of the city[170][171] and has been described as the "grand dame of Marrakesh hotels." The hotel has hosted numerous internationally renowned people includingWinston Churchill,Prince Charles andMick Jagger.[171] Churchill used to relax within the gardens of the hotel and paint there.[172] The 231-room hotel,[173] which contains a casino, was refurbished in 1986 and again in 2007 by French designerJacques Garcia.[172][171] Other hotels include Eden Andalou Hotel, Hotel Marrakech, Sofitel Marrakech, Palm Plaza Hotel & Spa, Royal Mirage Hotel, Piscina del Hotel, and Palmeraie Palace at the Palmeraie Rotana Resort.[174] In March 2012,Accor opened its first Pullman-branded hotel in Marrakech, Pullman Marrakech Palmeraie Resort & Spa. Set in a 17 hectares (42 acres) olive grove at La Palmeraie, the hotel has 252 rooms, 16 suites, six restaurants and a 535 square metres (5,760 sq ft) conference room.[175]
TheMarrakech Museum, housed in the Dar Menebhi Palace in the old city centre, was built at the beginning of the 20th century byMehdi Menebhi.[176][177] The palace was carefully restored by the Omar Benjelloun Foundation and converted into a museum in 1997.[178] The museum holds exhibits of both modern and traditional Moroccan art together with fine examples of historical books, coins and pottery produced by Moroccan Arab, Berber, and Jewish peoples.[179][180]
TheDar Si Said Museum is to the north of the Bahia Palace. It was the mansion of Si Said, brother to Grand VizierBa Ahmad, and was constructed in the same era as Ahmad's ownBahia Palace.[181][182] In the 1930s, during the French Protectorate period, it was converted into a museum of Moroccan art and woodcraft.[183] After recent renovations, the museum reopened in 2018 as the National Museum of Weaving and Carpets.[184][185]
The former home and villa of Jacques Majorelle, a blue-coloured building within the Majorelle Gardens, was converted into the Berber Museum (MuséePierre Bergé des Arts Berbères) in 2011, after previously serving as a museum ofIslamic art.[186][187][188] It exhibits a variety of objects of Amazigh (Berber) culture from across different regions of Morocco.[186]
TheHouse of Photography of Marrakech, opened by Patrick Menac’h and Hamid Mergani in 2009, holds exhibits of vintage Moroccan photography from the 1870s to 1950s.[189][190] The Mouassine Museum, by the same owners, consists of a historic 16th–17th-century house in the Mouassine neighbourhood which has been opened as a museum and cultural venue.[191][192][193]
Elsewhere in the medina, theDar El Bacha hosts theMusée des Confluences, which opened in 2017.[194] The museum holds temporary exhibits highlighting different facets of Moroccan culture[195] as well as various art objects from different cultures across the world.[196] Various other small and often privately owned museums also exist, such as the Musée Boucharouite and the Perfume Museum (Musée du Parfum).[197][198][199] Dar Bellarj, an arts center located in a former mansion next to the Ben Youssef Mosque, also occasionally hosts art exhibits.[200][197] TheTiskiwin Museum is housed in another restored medina mansion and features a collection of artifacts from across the former the trans-Saharan trade routes.[201][202] A number of art galleries and museums are also found outside the medina, in Gueliz and its surrounding districts in the new city.[203][197]
Two types of music are traditionally associated with Marrakesh.Moroccan music is influenced by Andalusian classical music and typified by itsoud accompaniment. By contrast,Gnaoua music is loud and funky with a sound reminiscent of the Blues. It is performed on handmade instruments such ascastanets,ribabs (three-stringed banjos) anddeffs (handheld drums). Gnaoua music's rhythm and crescendo take the audience into a mood of trance; the style is said to have emerged in Marrakesh andEssaouira as a ritual of deliverance from slavery.[204] More recently, several Marrakesh female music groups have also risen to popularity.[205]
TheThéâtre Royal de Marrakesh, theInstitut Français andDar Chérifa are major performing arts institutions in the city. The Théâtre Royal, built by Tunisian architectCharles Boccara, puts on theatrical performances ofcomedy,opera, anddance in Arabic and French.[206] A great number of storytellers, musicians and others also perform outdoor shows to entertain locals and tourists on the Jemaa el-Fnaa, especially at night.[207]
The arts and crafts of Marrakesh have had a wide and enduring impact on Moroccan handicrafts to the present day. Riad décor is widely used in carpets and textiles, ceramics, woodwork, metal work andzelij. Carpets and textiles are weaved, sewn or embroidered, sometimes used for upholstering. Moroccan women who practice craftsmanship are known asMaalems (expert craftspeople) and make such fine products as Arabic and Berber carpets and shawls made ofsabra (another name forrayon, also sometimes called cactus silk).[205][208][209] Ceramics are in varying styles in monochrome, a limited tradition depicting bold forms and decorations.[205]
Wood crafts are generally made ofcedar, including theriad doors and palace ceilings.Orange wood is used for makingladles known asharira (lentil soup ladles).Thuya craft products are made of caramel colouredthuya, aconifer indigenous to Morocco. Since this species is almost extinct, these trees are being replanted and promoted by the artists' cooperative Femmes de Marrakech.[205]
Metalwork made in Marrakesh includesbrass lamps, iron lanterns,candle holders made from recycledsardine tins, and engraved brass teapots and tea trays used in the traditional serving of tea. Contemporary art includes sculpture and figurative paintings. Blue veiledTuareg figurines and calligraphy paintings are also popular.[205]
Festivals, both national and Islamic, are celebrated in Marrakesh and throughout the country, and some of them are observed as national holidays.[210] Cultural festivals of note held in Marrakesh include the National Folklore Festival, the Marrakech Festival of Popular Arts (in which a variety of famous Moroccan musicians and artists participate), international folklore festival Marrakech Folklore Days[211] and the Berber Festival.[210][212] TheInternational Film Festival of Marrakech, which aspires to be the North African version of theCannes Film Festival, was established in 2001.[213] The festival, which showcases over 100 films from around the world annually, has attracted Hollywood stars such asMartin Scorsese,Francis Ford Coppola,Susan Sarandon,Jeremy Irons,Roman Polanski and many European, Arab andIndian film stars.[213] The Marrakech Bienniale was established in 2004 byVanessa Branson as a cultural festival in various disciplines, including visual arts, cinema, video, literature, performing arts, and architecture.[214]
Surrounded by lemon, orange, andolive groves, the city's culinary characteristics are rich and heavily spiced but not hot, using various preparations ofRas el hanout (which means "Head of the shop"), a blend of dozens of spices which include ash berries, chilli, cinnamon, grains of paradise, monk's pepper, nutmeg, and turmeric.[215] A specialty of the city and the symbol of its cuisine istanjia marrakshia, affectionately referred to asbint ar-rimad (بنت الرماد "daughter of the ash"), a local meal prepared with beef meat, spices, andsmen and slow-cooked in a ceramic pot in traditional oven in hot ashes.[216] Tajines can be prepared with chicken, lamb, beef or fish, adding fruit, olives and preserved lemon, vegetables and spices, including cumin, peppers, saffron, turmeric, andras el hanout. The meal is prepared in atajine pot and slow-cooked with steam. Another version of tajine includes vegetables andchickpeas seasoned with flower petals.[217] Tajines may also be basted with "smen" Moroccan ghee that has a flavour similar to blue cheese.[218]
Shrimp, chicken and lemon-filledbriouats are another traditional specialty of Marrakesh. Rice is cooked with saffron, raisins, spices, and almonds, whilecouscous may have added vegetables. Apastilla is afilo-wrapped pie stuffed with minced chicken or pigeon that has been prepared with almonds, cinnamon, spices and sugar.[219]Harira soup in Marrakesh typically includes lamb with a blend of chickpeas, lentils, vermicelli, and tomato paste, seasoned with coriander, spices and parsley.Kefta (mince meat), liver incrépinette,merguez andtripe stew are commonly sold at the stalls of Jemaa el-Fnaa.[220]
The desserts of Marrakesh includechebakia (sesame spice cookies usually prepared and served during Ramadan),tartlets of filo dough with dried fruit, or cheesecake with dates.[221]
TheMoroccan tea culture is practiced in Marrakesh;green tea with mint is served with sugar from a curved teapot spout into small glasses.[222] Another popular non-alcoholic drink is orange juice.[223] Under the Almoravids, alcohol consumption was common;[224] historically, hundreds of Jews produced and sold alcohol in the city.[225] In the present day, alcohol is sold in some hotel bars and restaurants.[226]
Marrakesh has several universities and schools, includingCadi Ayyad University (also known as the University of Marrakech), and its component, theÉcole nationale des sciences appliquées de Marrakech (ENSA Marrakech), which was created in 2000 by theMinistry of Higher Education and specializes in engineering and scientific research, and the La faculté des sciences et techniques-gueliz which known to be number one in Morocco in its kind of faculties.[227][228] Cadi Ayyad University was established in 1978 and operates 13 institutions in the Marrakech Tensift Elhaouz and Abda Doukkala regions of Morocco in four main cities, includingKalaa of Sraghna,Essaouira andSafi in addition to Marrakech.[229]Sup de Co Marrakech, also known as the École Supérieure de Commerce de Marrakech, is a private four-year college that was founded in 1987 by Ahmed Bennis. The school is affiliated with theÉcole Supérieure de Commerce of Toulouse,France.[230]
TheBen Youssef Madrasa, north of the Medina, was anIslamiccollege in Marrakesh named after the Almoravid sultan Ali ibn Yusuf (1106–1142) who expanded the city and its influence considerably. It is the largest madrasa in all of Morocco and was one of the largest theological colleges inNorth Africa, at one time housing as many as 900 students.[231]
This education complex specialized in Quranic law and was linked to similar institutions inFez,Taza,Salé, andMeknes.[232] TheMadrasa was constructed by theSaadian SultanAbdallah al-Ghalib (1557–1574) in 1564 as the largest and most prestigious madrasa in Morocco.[232] The construction ordered by Abdallah al-Ghalib was completed in 1565, as attested by the inscription in the prayer room.[233] Its 130 student dormitory cells cluster around a courtyard richly carved incedar,marble andstucco. In accordance with Islam, the carvings contain no representation of humans or animals, consisting entirely of inscriptions and geometric patterns. One of the school's best known teachers wasMohammed al-Ifrani (1670–1745). After a temporary closure beginning in 1960, the building was refurbished and reopened to the public as a historical site in 1982.[234]
Golf is a popular sport in Marrakech. The city has three golf courses just outside the city limits and played almost through the year. The three main courses are the Golf de Amelikis on the road to Ourazazate, the Palmeraie Golf Palace near the Palmeraie, and the Royal Golf Club, the oldest of the three courses.[238]
The main road network within and around Marrakesh is well paved. The major highway connecting Marrakesh with Casablanca to the north is the A7, a toll expressway, 210 km (130 mi) in length. The road from Marrakesh toSettat, a 146 km (91 mi) stretch, was inaugurated byKing Mohammed VI in April 2007, completing the 558 km (347 mi) highway to Tangiers. Highway A7 connects also Marrakesh toAgadir, 233 km (145 mi) to the south-west.[240]
TheMarrakesh-Menara Airport (RAK) is 3 km (1.9 mi) southwest of the city centre. It is an international facility that receives severalEuropean flights as well as flights fromCasablanca and several Arab nations.[241] The airport is at an elevation of 471 metres (1,545 ft) at31°36′25″N008°02′11″W / 31.60694°N 8.03639°W /31.60694; -8.03639.[242] It has two formal passenger terminals; these are more or less combined into one large terminal. A third terminal is being built.[243] The existing T1 and T2 terminals offer a space of 42,000 m2 (450,000 sq ft) and have a capacity of 4.5 million passengers per year. The blacktopped runway is 4.5 km (2.8 mi) long and 45 m (148 ft) wide. The airport has parking space for 14Boeing 737 and fourBoeing 747 aircraft. The separate freight terminal has 340 m2 (3,700 sq ft) of covered space.[244]
Marrakesh has long been an important centre for healthcare inMorocco, and the regional rural and urban populations alike are reliant upon hospitals in the city. The psychiatric hospital installed by the Almohad caliphYa'qub al-Mansur in the 12th century[245] was described by contemporary historian'Abd al-Wahfd al-Marrakushi as one of the greatest in the world at the time.[246] A strong Andalusi influence was evident in this period, as one of the physicians in the hospital was fromDenia in eastern Spain and many of the personal physicians of the caliphs came from places such asSeville,Zaragoza andBeja.[246]
A severe strain has been placed upon the healthcare facilities of the city in the last decade as the city population has grown dramatically.[247]Ibn Tofail University Hospital is one of the major hospitals of the city.[248] In February 2001, the Moroccan government signed a loan agreement worth eight million U.S. dollars withThe OPEC Fund for International Development to help improve medical services in and around Marrakesh, which led to expansions of the Ibn Tofail andIbn Nafess hospitals. Seven new buildings were constructed, with a total floor area of 43,000 square metres (460,000 sq ft). New radiotherapy and medical equipment was provided and 29,000 square metres (310,000 sq ft) of existing hospital space was rehabilitated.[247]
In 2009, king Mohammed VI inaugurated a regional psychiatric hospital in Marrakesh, built by theMohammed V Foundation for Solidarity, costing 22 milliondirhams (approximately 2.7 million U.S. dollars).[249]The hospital has 194 beds, covering an area of 3 hectares (7.4 acres).[249] Mohammed VI has also announced plans for the construction of a 450 million dirham military hospital in Marrakesh.[250]
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