Marblehead is a coastalNew England town inEssex County, Massachusetts, United States, along theNorth Shore. Its population was 20,441 at the2020 census.[2] The town lies on a small peninsula that extends into the northern part ofMassachusetts Bay. Attached to the town is a near island, known as Marblehead Neck, connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. Marblehead Harbor, protected by shallowshoals and rocks from the open sea, lies between the mainland and the Neck. Beside the Marblehead town center, two other villages lie within the town: the Old Town, which was the original town center, and Clifton, which lies along the border with the neighboring town ofSwampscott.
A town with roots incommercial fishing andyachting, Marblehead was a major shipyard and is often referred to as the birthplace of theAmerican Navy, a title sometimes disputed with nearbyBeverly. Marblehead was once the fishing capital of Massachusetts. It is also the origin ofMarine Corps Aviation. Three US Navy ships have been namedUSSMarblehead. A center ofrecreational boating, Marblehead has long been a popularsailing,kayaking andfishing destination, with several yacht clubs established in the late 19th century.
Marblehead is also home of the Marblehead Men's Softball League, which was established in 1939 and is the oldest and longest standing adult softball league in the world.
Marblehead was originally calledMassebequash after the river which ran between it andSalem. The land was inhabited by theNaumkeag tribe of thePawtucket confederation under the overallsachemNanepashemet. Epidemics in 1615–1619 and 1633, believed to besmallpox, devastated the tribe. Numerous shell mounds and burial sites have been found throughout the town's history, along with foundations of multiple villages and forts.[4] On September 16, 1684, heirs of Nanepashemet sold their 3,700 acres (15 km2); the deed is preserved today atAbbot Hall in the town.[5]
Marblehead's first European settler was Joseph Doliber or John Peach (highly disputed) in 1629, who set up on the shore near what is now the end of Bradlee Road. Three years earlier, Isaac Allerton, aPilgrim from theMayflower, had arrived in the area and established a fishing village at Marblehead Little Harbor. In May 1635, the General Court of Massachusetts Bay established the town of Marblehead on land that belonged to Salem. Marblehead residents, who never saw eye-to-eye with their more devout and conservative neighbors, were delighted, but less than a year later, the lawmakers reversed themselves. Marblehead finally became independent ofSalem in 1649.[6][7]
At times called "Marvell Head", "Marble Harbour" (by CaptainJohn Smith) and "Foy" (by immigrants fromFowey, Cornwall), the town would be named "Marblehead" by settlers who mistook itsgranite ledges formarble. It began as a fishing village with narrow crooked streets, and developed inland from the harbor. The shoreline smelled ofdrying fish, typicallycod. These were exported abroad and to Salem.
The town had one accused individual during theSalem Witch Trials,Wilmot Redd. She was found guilty of witchcraft and executed by hanging on September 22, 1692.
The town peaked economically just before theAmerican Revolution, as locally financedprivateering vessels sought bounty from large European ships. Much early architecture survives from the era, including theJeremiah Lee Mansion.
A large percentage of residents became involved early in theRevolutionary War, and the sailors of Marblehead are generally recognized by scholars as forerunners of theUnited States Navy[citation needed]. The first vessel commissioned for the army,Hannah, was equipped with cannons, rope, provisions (including the indigenous molasses/sea water cookie known as "Joe Frogger" ), and a crew from Marblehead. With their nautical backgrounds, soldiers from Marblehead under GeneralJohn Glover were instrumental in the escape of theContinental Army after theBattle of Long Island.The Marblehead militia had become the14th Continental Regiment of George Washington's army—and one of the few integrated regiments in the entire army.[8] Marblehead menferried George Washington across theDelaware River for his attack onTrenton. Many who set out for war, however, did not return, leaving the town with 459 widows and 865 orphaned children in a population of less than 5,000.
Marbleheaders rowing Washington across the Delaware
The community lost a substantial portion of its population and economy, although it was still the tenth-largest inhabited location in the United States at the first census, in 1790.[9]
When George Washington visited the town during his presidential tour of 1789, he knew the sailors of Marblehead well; they had served him honorably in the war. He observed that the town "had the appearance of antiquity."[10]
In the 75 years from the American Revolution to the middle of the nineteenth century, Marblehead experienced a golden age of fishing. TheWar of 1812 brought disruption similar to during the American Revolution, with fishing grounds being blockaded, and fisherman heading off to war, with over 500 Marbleheaders being captured by the British.[11] After the war, and later into the 19th century, wealthier citizens wanted a new bank to finance vessels, and to serve the town's fishermen and merchants. On March 17, 1831, with a capital of US$100,000, they founded theGrand Bank. The name was changed to National Grand Bank on October 3, 1864.[12]
Eleven Marblehead ships were lost in Gale of 1846, painting by William Thompson Bartoll
The town's fishermen had 98 vessels (95 of which exceeded 50 tons) putting to sea in 1837, where they often harvested fish off theGrand Banks of Newfoundland. However, a gale or hurricane in that area on September 19, 1846, sank 11 vessels and damaged others. With 65 men and boys lost in the storm, the town's fishing industry began a decline. The storm is depicted inFireboard: The Great Gale of 1846, c. 1850 by William Thompson Bartoll. A copy of the book is held by thePeabody Essex Museum.
During theCivil War, 1,048 Marblehead men went to war, joining both the Army and Navy. 110 died; 87 were wounded, many of whom died later of their injuries. During the war, Marblehead would raise almost $100,000 to supplement the war effort, an incredible effort for a town of 8,000 that relied mainly on fishing for income. Marblehead would be the first regiment in the state to answer the call for troops.[13] AGrand Army of the Republic veterans organization was formed after the war, and established headquarters in the old town house, where it still displays artifacts from the Marblehead regiments that served.
Burgess aircraft in Marblehead HarborMarblehead Harbor 1916
During the late 19th century, Marblehead had a short-term industrial boom from shoe-making factories. At the same time, the exceptional harbor attracted yachting by wealthy boat owners, and some yacht clubs established centers there. It would become home to the Boston Yacht Club, Corinthian Yacht Club, Eastern Yacht Club, Marblehead Yacht Club, Dolphin Yacht Club, and the oldest junior yacht club in America, the Pleon Yacht Club. This also caused numerous "summer homes" of wealthy Boston residents to be built on Marblehead Neck. The building boom would causeMarblehead Light to be replaced in 1896 with a new iron structure since the light of shorter tower was becoming blocked by the large new homes.
After World War II, the town enjoyed a population boom, developing as abedroom community for nearby Boston,Lynn, and Salem. This boom ended around 1970, when the town became built out. Marblehead today continues to be a sailing and small-town tourism destination in the summer months.
The Town of Marblehead has an open town meeting, and is led by a Board of Selectmen. A board of seven selectmen first met on Friday, December 22, 1648.[16]
The seat of the first town government used the existing Meeting House on what is now the site ofOld Burial Hill. The meeting house served as a place for the town to meet and the main church in town; a dual use that was typical during this time period.[17] The second meeting house was built around 1696 on Franklin Street, which would become known as the "Old Meeting House", also serving the dual use of a town meeting location and church. In 1726, it was decided by the town to construct a separate Town House, which was completed in 1727 (Old Town House).[17] However, the Old Meeting House would continue to occasionally be used for large town meetings, before it was demolished around 1825 after the new First Congregational Church was built (Old North Church).[17] TheTown House would serve as the town hall until the construction ofAbbot Hall in 1876, where the town clerk and board of selectmen still meet today.
Marblehead is comprised by a total of 4.4 square miles (11.4 km2) of land and 15.2 square miles (39.4 km2), or 77.61%, of water.[18]
Marblehead is situated on theNorth Shore of Massachusetts alongMassachusetts Bay andSalem Harbor. The town consists of a rocky peninsula that extends into the bay, with an additionalneck to the east connected by a longsandbar, now a causeway. This ring of land defines Marblehead's deep, sheltered harbor. Marblehead Neck is home to a bird sanctuary, as well as Castle Rock and Chandler Hovey Park at its northern tip, whereMarblehead Light is located.
Fountain Park andFort Sewall are located at the western edge of the mouth of Marblehead Harbor. The town land also includes several small islands in Massachusetts Bay and Dolliber Cove, the area between Peaches Point and Fort Sewall. The town is partially divided from Salem by the Forest River, and is also home to several small ponds. In keeping with the town's location, there are four beaches (one in Dolliber Cove, one inMarblehead Harbor, and two along the southern shore of town), as well as six yacht clubs, one public kayaking center[19] and several boat ramps.
Marblehead old train depot
Besides Marblehead Neck, there are two other villages within town, the Old Town to the northeast and Clifton to the southwest. Given its small area, most of the residential land in town is densely settled. Marblehead's town center is located approximately 4 miles (6 km) from the center ofSalem, 16 miles (26 km) northeast ofBoston and 12 miles (19 km) southwest ofCape Ann. It is bordered bySwampscott to the south and Salem to the northwest. (As Salem's water rights extend into Massachusetts Bay, there is no connection between Marblehead and the city ofBeverly across Beverly Harbor.)
Marblehead is home to the eastern termini ofMassachusetts Route 114 andRoute 129, which both terminate at the intersection of Pleasant Street and Ocean Avenue. Route 114 heads west into Salem, while Route 129 heads south along Atlantic Avenue into Swampscott towards Lynn. There are no freeways within town, with the nearest access being toMassachusetts Route 128 in Peabody and Beverly.
TwoMBTA bus routes—the441 and442—originate in town regularly with service to Boston, with weekend service toWonderland station in Revere. The formerEastern Railroad began service in 1839 and had lines connecting through Swampscott and Salem was discontinued in the late 1950s. The track routes were converted to bike trails and the three train depots were torn down.[20] TheNewburyport/Rockport Line of theMBTA Commuter Rail passes through neighboring Swampscott and Salem, with service between the North Shore and Boston'sNorth Station. The nearest air service is located atBeverly Municipal Airport, with the nearest national and international service at Boston'sLogan International Airport. Seasonal ferry service to Boston can also be found in Salem.
According to theKöppen Climate Classification system, Marblehead has ahumid continental climate or anoceanic climate, abbreviated "Cfb" or "Dfb" on climate maps. The hottest temperature recorded in Marblehead was 101 °F (38.3 °C) on July 23, 2011, and June 24, 2025, while the coldest temperature recorded was −20 °F (−28.9 °C) on February 4, 2023.[21]
Climate data for Marblehead, Massachusetts, 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1984–present
As of the census[33] of 2010, there were 19,808 people, 8,838 households, and 5,467 families residing in the town. The population density was 4,373 inhabitants per square mile (1,688/km2). There were 8,906 housing units at an average density of 1,966.3/sq mi (759.2/km2). The racial makeup of the town was 97.6%White, 0.4%Black orAfrican American, 0.1%Native American, 1.0%Asian, >0.1%Pacific Islander, 0.2% fromother races, and 0.7% from two or more races.Hispanic orLatino of any race were 0.9% of the population.
There were 8,541 households, out of which 31.2% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 56.5% were married couples living together, 8.0% had a female householder, and 33.5% were non-families. Of all households 28.7% were made up of individuals, and 10.7% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.37 and the average family size was 2.94.
In the town, the population was spread out, with 23.9% under the age of 18, 3.5% from 18 to 24, 28.0% from 25 to 44, 29.0% from 45 to 64, and 15.6% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 42 years. For every 100 females, there were 89.3 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 84.3 males.
According to a 2009 estimate,[34] the median income for a household in the town was $97,441, and the median income for a family was $129,968. Males had a median income of $70,470 versus $44,988 for females. The per capita income for the town was $46,738. About 3.2% of families and 4.3% of the population were below the poverty line, including 5.7% of those under age 18 and 4.6% of those age 65 or over.
Marblehead Public Schools oversees four schools: Brown andGlover elementary schools; the Village School (grades 4–6); Marblehead Veterans Middle School; andMarblehead High School.[35] The town is also home to the Marblehead Community Charter Public School, the first Commonwealth charter school to open in Massachusetts, as well as Tower School, a private day school for kindergarten through eighth grade.
The Town of Marblehead has the unique distinction of having an official town anthem "Marblehead Forever". It is performed at most major town events and commemorations. It was written by the Reverend Marcia Martin Selman to the music of the hymn tune "The Lily of the Valley", from a melody by J. R. Murray, "Songs of Rejoicing", 1888.[36]
Marblehead has multiple historic cemeteries and public and private burial grounds found within the town borders. There have also been Native America burials sites found throughout town.[43]
President George Washington: 1789, George Washington part of his ten-day presidential visit to Massachusetts
Marquis de Lafayette: 1784, after Revolutionary War was over, Marquis de Lafayette visited to honor General John Glover and to see his friend Elbridge Gerry. He returned in 1824 to Marblehead during his triumphal tour of the United States.[71]
John Adams: Came to Marblehead Harbor to take frigate to France in 1778 to negotiate a treaty of alliance.[72]
President Chester Arthur: 1882, U.S. steamer anchored off Marblehead, was "kidnapped" after returning from Salem and brought to Abbott Hall where he was welcomed by Marbleheaders and gave short speech.[59]
H. P. Lovecraft visited Marblehead in 1922, an event which had profound personal effect on him. He used Marblehead as his inspiration for the fictional town ofKingsport.
Sylvia Plath American poet, novelist, and short story writer. Visited Marblehead in July 1951.
See: Arts, Films section for actors who came for location shooting.
Castle Rock Marblehead,Alfred Thompson BricherMarblehead Harbor, Maurice Brazil PrendergastOn Deck of the YachtConstellation, John Singer SargentFirst International Yacht Race off Children's Island, M.H. HowesMrs Jeremiah Lee, Martha Swett,John Singleton Copley
Notable paintings & artists depicting Marblehead scenes and figures:
Hocus Pocus (1993) – Old town streets (bike ride scene), Old Burial Hill (daytime cemetery), Crocker Park (Abbott Hall bells ringing), Witches night time flyover
A television show has yet to been filmed in the town, but Marblehead has been mentioned in the following TV series:
Marblehead Manor (1987) was a sitcom about a wealthy Marblehead resident that ran for one season on CBS.
Cheers, set inBoston, made three references to the town.Sam mentions sailing to Marblehead in Season 1, Episode 6.Diane mentions Sam having taken her to abed and breakfast in Marblehead in Season 4, episode 15. Sam says that he will sail to Marblehead for relaxation in Season 5, Episode 1.
InSabrina, the Teenage Witch, Aunt Hilda makes reference to Marblehead in the sixth episode of the second season, entitled "Sabrina, the Teenage Boy."
The TV movieThe Crossing (2000) has General Washington (Jeff Daniels) speaking to Col. Glover (Sebastian Roché) about the men of Marblehead rowing across the Delaware.
The West Wing Season 4 episode 18, "Privateers", has Mrs. Marion Cotesworth-Haye of Marblehead denouncing the first lady's (Stockard Channing) membership of the Daughters of the Revolution, when they learn that her distant relative was more pirate than patriot.
The Handmaid's Tale mentions Marblehead in season one episode 7, entitled "The Other Side".
Marblehead', by Joan Thompson: The town appears in the eponymous book debuting in 1978.
The Hearth & Eagle, byAnya Seton, traces the history of Marblehead from early settlement in 1630 to modern times through the story of one family, originally from Cornwall, who eventually ran Marblehead's Hearth & Eagle Inn.
Rabbi Small, byHarry Kemelman, takes place in the fictional town of Barnard's Crossing, a place based on Marblehead. Kemelman lived in Marblehead for 50 years.
TheJesse Stone novels:Robert B. Parker supposedly based the fictional town of Paradise, in which the novels take place, on Marblehead. Both Paradise and Marblehead are on the coast in Essex County,Cape Ann is visible from them, and each has an annual Race Week yachting event.
Kingsport –Horror andfantasy writerH. P. Lovecraft derived great inspiration from Marblehead. Following his first visit in December 1922, he retroactively reconfigured his fictionalKingsport in its own image. As of 1920, Kingsport was an unspecified location on Rhode Island, only mentioned in passing. Lovecraft likely based the name on that ofKingstown, R.I. Lovecraft regarded his experience of visiting Marblehead in 1922, however, as life-changing. Thereafter, he based his Kingsport on Marblehead.
At the presidential level, Marblehead leaned towards the Republican candidate in results tabulated from 1968 through 1988, but has since swung predominantly to the Democratic Party, as with many other communities in Massachusetts.
Marblehead town vote by party in presidential elections[91]
^Howard, Hugh (2012).Houses of the Founding Fathers: The Men Who Made America and the Way They Lived. San Francisco, CA: Artisan Books. p. 65.ISBN978-1-57965-510-5.
^"1950 Census of Population"(PDF). Bureau of the Census. 1952. Section 6, Pages 21-10 and 21-11, Massachusetts Table 6. Population of Counties by Minor Civil Divisions: 1930 to 1950. RetrievedJuly 12, 2011.
^"1920 Census of Population"(PDF). Bureau of the Census. Number of Inhabitants, by Counties and Minor Civil Divisions. Pages 21-5 through 21-7. Massachusetts Table 2. Population of Counties by Minor Civil Divisions: 1920, 1910, and 1920. RetrievedJuly 12, 2011.
^"1890 Census of the Population"(PDF). Department of the Interior, Census Office. Pages 179 through 182. Massachusetts Table 5. Population of States and Territories by Minor Civil Divisions: 1880 and 1890. RetrievedJuly 12, 2011.
^"1870 Census of the Population"(PDF). Department of the Interior, Census Office. 1872. Pages 217 through 220. Table IX. Population of Minor Civil Divisions, &c. Massachusetts. RetrievedJuly 12, 2011.
^"1860 Census"(PDF). Department of the Interior, Census Office. 1864. Pages 220 through 226. State of Massachusetts Table No. 3. Populations of Cities, Towns, &c. RetrievedJuly 12, 2011.
^"1850 Census"(PDF). Department of the Interior, Census Office. 1854. Pages 338 through 393. Populations of Cities, Towns, &c. RetrievedJuly 12, 2011.