Pakaian (Jawi: ڤاکاين) is the term for clothing in Malaysia'snational language. It is referring to things to wear such as shirts, pants, shoes etc.[1] SinceMalaysia is a multicultural nation:Malay,Chinese,Indian and hundreds of other indigenous groups ofMalay Peninsula andBorneo, each has its own traditional and religious articles of clothing all of which are gender-specific and may be adapted to local influences and conditions. Previously, traditional clothes were worn daily. However, by excludingBaju Melayu,Baju Kurung many are now only worn on special occasions such as marriage ceremonies and cultural events.
Malaysian traditional clothing varies by region. Nevertheless, Malay clothing can be classified according to three distinct periods of history.[2]
Prior to the prevalence ofBaju Kurung andBaju Kebaya, it is believed thatkemban was the common woman's clothing of the ancientMalay Archipelago.[3]Kemban is essentially a type ofsarong, only worn by females. Traditionally, women wear two pieces of clothes; the lower one is wrapped around the hips covering lower parts of the body (hips, thighs, and legs) and is called askain sarong, while the piece that is wrapped around the upper body (chest and torso) is calledkain kemban. The third piece of cloth calledkain kelubung may also be used to cover the head (head, shoulders, and arms) from the scorching sun. On the other hand, the typical man's clothing only involved two pieces of clothes. A largerkain sarong wrapped around the waist which covered the lower part of the body, while a smaller piece tied around the head formed a headdress.
The only difference between the clothes worn by the members of the nobility and the common folk is the quality of cloth used. The members of the nobility used more expensive cloth such asbatik,ikat,songket, ortenun, as well as wore elaborate jewelry made of gold and precious stones. Today, this shoulder-exposing dress still features in traditional Malay dances and rituals especially inKelantan where it is regarded as an expression of aesthetics, elegance, and femininity.
Malacca was the strongest sultanate in the Malay Archipelago and was a center of entrepot trade, with traders from China, India, and the Middle East. According to theSejarah Melayu (Malay Annals),Sultan Mansur Shah, the sixth Malaccan ruler, banned Malay women from wearing only akemban as it ran contrary to personal modesty based on the Islamic teachings. With the guides from Tun Hassan Temenggong, the son of Bendahara Seri Maharaja Tun Mutahir, the traditionalBaju Melayu andBaju Kurung were born, adopting different elements from around the world. This style of clothing then remained largely unchanged over the next three and a half centuries.
When the Portuguese conquered Malacca in 1511, they introduced the termcabaya from the Arabic wordabaya to describe the blouse-dress traditionally worn throughout the archipelago. The features ofBaju Kebaya is notably very similar to the traditional MalayBaju Kurung andBaju Belah. In the 16th or 17th century, this style of clothing was adopted by the multicultural communities ofPortuguese Malacca.[4] The appearance of European elements can be attributed to the role of the Portuguese and the Dutch during the colonial era. Today, the Kristang community in Malacca still wears the original Portuguese stylekebaya as their traditional costume.[5]
The earlierBaju Kurung was longer and looser. In Johor, another version ofBaju Kurung emerged as it was first introduced during the reign ofSultan Abu Bakar to commemorate the move of Johor's capital from Teluk Belanga to Tanjung Puteri in 1866. Sultan Abu Bakar ordered that the woman's dress be down to below the knee with its neckline smooth and not baggy. TheTeluk Belanga style has no collar and the neckline is stitched in various forms of embroidery. During the reign of Sultan Ibrahim, the dress was changed at the suggestion of the Jaafar bin Haji Muhammad, the first Menteri Besar of Johor, where a pocket was added onto theBaju Kurung. At the same time, thekain kelubung remained relevant as a part of women's dress right up to the 1930s. Today, theTeluk Belanga style is synonymous with the standard traditionalBaju Kurung.
In the northern Malay Peninsula, a style of clothing known asBaju Sikap is preferred by men and was worn as early as 1786.[6] It is a part of the official attire of theSultan of Kedah and has been worn for the past two centuries among the royal family of Kedah for state official ceremonies.[7] Baju Sikap is considered one of the basic Malay clothing, that is a part of the Malay "suit six", usually worn during official events in Malaysia.
At the beginning of the 20th century, another style ofkebaya was popularised by the Malaccan Peranakan community, where it is locally known asKebaya Nyonya. This Nyonya style is different from its predecessors as it uses textile with Chinese motive that intricately embroidered with Chinese techniques. This style ofkebaya is usually accompanied by intricately hand-beaded shoes. Other than Malacca, this style is also popular in other straits settlements such as Penang and Singapore.
In 1960,Baju Muskat was first worn during the coronation ofthe third Yang di-Pertuan Agong inspired byTunku Abdul Rahman when he became the firstPrime Minister of Malaysia, who was a prince from the Kedah. TheBaju Muskat is a modified version ofBaju Sikap from the official attire of Kedah State Government Officials and thus become one of theregalia of Malaysia.
In the 1950s, theselendang began replacing the largerkain kelubung. By the early 1980s, theBaju Kurung Moden, a style ofBaju Kurung that closely followed western fashion and detailing was flourished. TheBaju Kurung continues to survive and prosper, especially due to its popularity during the Islamisation of Malaysia in the 1970s and 1980s as well as its introduction as a school uniform for public schools in the country.
Traditional Malay clothing for men is theBaju Melayu, a long-sleeved shirt which is worn over trousers and usually accompanied with a shortsarong called asamping which is wrapped around the hips. It is also often accompanied with asongkok ortengkolok.[8] Traditionally, Malay men may opt to wear thePending andBaju Sikap in order to complete the Malay "suit six".
On the other hand, Malay women wear theBaju Kurung. Baju Kurung is a knee-length blouse worn over a long skirt, known assarong. The blouse is long-sleeved and usually collarless, while thesarong has pleats on one side.[9] Atudong,selendang orkain dagang is sometimes worn with this. Another popular traditional costume for women is theBaju Kebaya, a more tight-fitting two-piece dress that is often considered less formal.[10] It is famously worn by the female flight attendants ofMalaysia Airlines.
Chinese immigrants who married Malays and adopted some of the Malay cultures are known as the Baba Nyonya orPeranakan Chinese. The traditional wear for Nyonya is theBaju Panjang and a style ofkebaya known asKebaya Nyonya, which are hard-made lace-like trimmed clothing, often with intricate embroidery.[3] On the other hand, the Baba usually wear clothing similar to the Chinese, calledBaju Lok Chuan.
Similar to Peranakan, the Chitty community commonly found in Malacca usually wear similar costumes. The Chitty women usually wear theKebaya Panjang or theKebaya Pendek with a sarong while the men wear dhoti with shirt or sarong with a head turban.
Those descended from thePortuguese often wear Portuguese-style outfits. Men often wear jackets and trousers with waist sashes, while women wear broad front-layered skirts. The dominant colours are black and red.[3]
Most indigenous people worebark costumes decorated with beads. TheOrang Asli ofWest Malaysia still wear clothing of natural materials, often out of tree bark and skirt. Leaf fronds are sometimes crafted into headbands calledtempok or other ornaments.[3] On the other hand,Siamese community of northern Malaysia, both women and men have traditionally worn attire of Thai origin.
InEast Malaysia similar clothes are worn. TheOrang Ulu of Sarawak wear hand-loomed cloths as well as tree bark fabrics. Beads and feathers are used for decoration. On the other hand, theIban are known for their wovenpua used in the traditionalNgepan costumes. In Sabah, the clothing of different tribes differs with different amounts, with tribes in close proximity having similar clothing. Notable ones are theKadazan-Dusun bamboo strips hat calledsiung worn by women, thedastar of theBajau worn by men.[3]
Traditional, Chinese men in Malaysia wear a dress called aTang suit. Tang suit is a type of jacket with a collar and a knot at the belly. It is mostly of floral motifs. On the other hand, the Chinese women wear thecheongsam, a one-piece dress with a collar, diagonally closed with small clips or toggles (fabric clasps). It sometimes can have slits at the side, as is made with a soft fabric such assilk.[3] The cheongsam is especially popular around the time of the Chinese New Year and other formal gatherings. Older well-respected women wear asamfoo, which looks like pajamas with a separate loose-fitting top fastened by toggles and ankle-length, or above the ankle, pants.
Indians in Malaysia as with elsewhere in the world wearsarees and usually worn with apetticoat of a similar shade. It is wrapped around the body so that the embroidered end hangs over the shoulder, while the petticoat is worn above the bellybutton to support the saree, which can be made from a wide variety of materials.
On formal occasions, Indian men wear thekurta, a knee-length collarless shirt that is adorned in mostly white or pastel colors.[3] Nowadays, Kurtas are also made out of colorful fabrics and worn with a loose trouser with a string tie at the waist called thepyjama. Indian men also wearSherwani,Lungi andDhoti.
The PunjabiSalwar kameez, a long tunic worn over trousers with a matching shawl is also popular among Punjabis.[3] The fabrics are imported from India, made of the best quality silk that is used in making sarees. On the other hand, the men wear Kurta with pants and a mandatory head turban.
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