| Madeira evergreen forests | |
|---|---|
.jpg) Laurissilva on Madeira | |
 Map of the Madeiran archipelago | |
| Ecology | |
| Realm | Palearctic |
| Biome | temperate broadleaf and mixed forests |
| Geography | |
| Area | 801 km2 (309 sq mi) |
| Country | Portugal |
| Autonomous region of Portugal | Madeira |
| Conservation | |
| Conservation status | vulnerable |
| Protected | 483 km2 (60%)[1] |
TheMadeira evergreen forests is alaurissilvaecoregion of southwestern Europe. It covers the archipelago ofMadeira and some nearby islands (Desertas andSelvagens) in the Atlantic Ocean.Laurel forest (Laurisilva) once covered the islands. Over centuries thelaurel forests were mostly cleared. Madeira's remaining forests are now protected.
The islands are an autonomous region ofPortugal. They lie southwest of the Portuguese mainland in theAtlantic Ocean, 978 kilometres (608 mi) southwest ofLisbon and 560 kilometres (350 mi) west of Morocco.
Madeira is the largest island and highest island, with an area of 741 square kilometres (286 sq mi). The island extends east–west approximately 57 kilometres (35 mi), and is 22 kilometres (14 mi) at its widest point. A mountainous spine runs the length of the island, andPico Ruivo, the highest peak, reaches 1,861 meters (6,106 ft) above sea level.Porto Santo Island, which lies 43 kilometres (27 mi) northeast of Madeira. is the second-largest island with an area of 42.2 square kilometres (16.3 sq mi).
TheDesertas Islands are a chain of three narrow islands about 25 kilometres (16 mi) southeast of Madeira, covering an area of 14.2 square kilometres (5.5 sq mi).
TheSelvagens are a group of small islands lying 280 kilometres (170 mi) south of Madeira, and 165 kilometres (103 mi) north of theCanary Islands. The Selvagens have a total area of 2.73 square kilometres (1.05 sq mi).
The islands are volcanic in origin.Basalt and volcanic ash are common substrate rocks, with some areas of uplifted limestone of marine origin. The volcanic soils are generally fertile, sustaining both the native forests and agriculture on the two larger islands.[2]
The islands of Madeira and Porto Santo are inhabited. The archipelago has a population of 289,000 (2016 estimate), mostly on Madeira.Funchal, on Madeira's south shore, is the islands' largest city and principal port.
The climate of Madeira is subtropical and maritime. The average annual temperature ranges between 15 and 20 °C at sea level. The climate becomes more temperate with elevation, and frost and snow occur most winters on Madeira's high elevations. Average annual precipitation ranges from 250 to 750 millimetres (9.8 to 29.5 in). Prevailing winds are from the northeast, and rainfall is higher on the windward north side of the island. The mountain slopes are frequently shrouded in orographic clouds and fog, sustaining cloud forests in the wettest areas.[2]
Madeira has about 1,226 native species of vascularplants. 66 vascular plant species areendemic to the islands,[3] including the endemic generaChamaemeles,Musschia,Parafestuca, andSinapidendron.[4] Madeiran endemics includePolystichum drepanum,Armeria maderensis,Goodyera macrophylla,Viola paradoxa,Crambe fruticosa,Matthiola maderensis,Sinapidendron angustifolium,Saxifraga maderensis,Sorbus maderensis,Genista maderensis,Pericallis aurita,Phalaris maderensis, andMusschia wollastonii. Another 54 species are endemic toMacaronesia. Over half of Madeira's plant species are also found in the Mediterranean Basin.[3]
Before Madeira was settled,laurel forests, known aslaurissilva covered most of the island. Laurissilva now covers 16 % of the island, and is found between 300 and 1,300 metres (980 and 4,270 ft) elevation on the Madeira's wet north-facing slopes, and from 700 to 1,600 metres (2,300 to 5,200 ft) elevation on the south-facing slopes.[2]
Laurissilva is characterized by evergreen trees with glossy leaves, and trees in the laurel family (Lauraceae) are prominent. The laurissilva is similar to the ancient subtropical forests of the Mediterranean Basin, prior to its climate cooling and drying during theice ages. The paleobotanical record of Madeira reveals that laurissilva forests has existed in this island for at least 1.8 million years.[5] TheCanary Islands andAzores are home to smaller areas of laurissilva.
The laurissilva of Madeira is of two main types. Moist laurisilva is found on north-facing slopes and canyons. The predominant trees areLaurus novocanariensis,Ocotea foetens,Persea indica, andClethra arborea. Trees are covered withepiphytic mosses and lichens.[3][2]
Dry laurisilva is found on south-facing slopes, and predominant trees arePersea barbujana, Laurus novocanariensis,Picconia excelsa,Visnea mocanera, andClethra arborea.[3][2]
Other laurissilva plants include the treesHeberdenia excelsa,Laurus nobilis,Pittosporum coriaceum, andRhamnus glandulosa, and the large shrubsIlex perado andIlex canariensis. The laurissilva has an understory of shrubs, ferns, herbs, mosses, and liverworts. Understory plants include the giantcranesbillGeranium maderense, theMadeiran squill (Scilla madeirensis), and the endemicorchidsDactylorhiza foliosa andGoodyera macrophylla.[2]
Mountain heathland grows on the high ridges and mountains above the laurissilva. Characteristic shrubs aretree heath (Erica arborea), besom heath (Erica platycodon ssp.maderincola), andMadeira juniper (Juniperus cedrus).[2]
Along the southern coast, low forests dominated by the endemicwild olive tree (Olea europaea subsp. cerasiformis) and the shrubsMaytenus umbellata,Chamaemeles coriacea (a Madeiran endemic),Dracaena draco, andAsparagus scoparius survive in coastal ravines up to 200 metres (660 ft) elevation. A secondary coastal shrubland ofEuphorbia piscatoria,Echium nervosum. andGlobularia salicina forms in disturbed areas. Low forests dominated bymarmolano (Sideroxylon mirmulano) occur along the northern shore, and in pockets above the south shoreOlea forests from 200 to 300 metres (660 to 980 ft) elevation. Other coastal plant communities include low shrubland, perennial grassland, and annual grassland.[6]
The laurissilva forests of the island of Madeira have been recognised as anImportant Bird Area (IBA) byBirdLife International.[7] Some 295 bird species and subspecies have been recorded on the Islands, and 42 of them breed here.Endemic bird species include theTrocaz pigeon (Columba trocaz),Zino's petrel (Pterodroma madeira),Desertas petrel (Pterodroma deserta), andMadeira firecrest (Regulus maderensis). TheMadeira chaffinch (Fringilla madeirensis) is an endemic forest species related to theEurasian chaffinch.[3]Berthelot's pipit (Anthus bertheloti) andAtlantic canary (Serinus canaria) are Macaronesian endemics.Tyto alba schmitzi is a Madeiran subspecies ofWestern barn owl,Accipiter nisus granti is a Macaronesian subspecies ofEurasian sparrowhawk, andFalco tinnunculus canariensis is a Macaronesian subspecies ofcommon kestrel. Theplain swift (Apus unicolor) breeds on Madeira and the Canary Islands, and ranges over northwestern Africa.[2] Two extinct species of rail, the Madeira rail (Rallus lowei) and Porto Santo rail (Rallus adolfocaesaris), once inhabited the archipelago, on Madeira and Porto Santo islands respectively.
Zino's petrel is a Madeiran breeding endemic, and the Desertas petrel breeds only on the Desertas islands. Other seabirds include theMadeiran storm petrel (Oceanodroma castro),Fea's petrel (Pterodroma feae),little shearwater (Puffinus assimilis baroli),white-faced storm petrel (Pelagodroma marina hypoleuca), andyellow-legged gull (Larus michahellis). Regular visitors include thelittle egret (Egretta garzetta),cattle egret (Bubulcus ibis),Eurasian whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus),dunlin (Calidris alpina), andruddy turnstone (Arenaria interpres).[2]
Two bats inhabit the islands – theMadeira pipistrelle (Pipistrellus maderensis), a Macaronesian endemic, and a subspecies oflesser noctule (Nyctalus leisleri verrucosus).[2]
The islands have two endemic lizards. TheMadeiran wall lizard (Teira dugesii) lives on Madeira, Porto Santo, the Desertas, and the Selvagens.
The islands have over 500 terrestrial invertebrate species, including insects, spiders, and molluscs.[2]
Portuguese settlers arrived after 1420, and are the first known settlers. The islands' trees were cut for their timber, andPersea indica was the most sought after. In the 16th and 17th centuries the southern side of Madeira was converted tosugarcane plantations. A system oflevadas, water channels 80 to 150 centimetres (31 to 59 in) wide, was constructed of stone and later concrete to irrigate the sugarcane fields. Forests and shrublands were denuded to provide charcoal for the islands' sugar mills. Goats, sheep, and cows were introduced to the islands, and forests were converted to pasture land, and the forest understory was grazed intensively.[2]
Many exotic plants and animals have been introduced to the islands. A few are invasive. Plantations ofPinus pinaster andEucalyptus globulus were planted at middle elevations. Eucalyptus has spread extensively on the south slope of Madeira, displacing native species.[3]
| UNESCO World Heritage Site | |
|---|---|
 Prehistoric Laurisilva forest in Madeira | |
 Interactive map of Laurisilva of Madeira | |
| Location | Island of Madeira,Madeira,Portugal |
| Criteria | Natural: (ix)(x) |
| Reference | 934 |
| Inscription | 1999 (23rdSession) |
| Area | 15,000 ha (58 sq mi) |
| Coordinates | 32°46′N17°0′W / 32.767°N 17.000°W /32.767; -17.000 |
Approximately 15,000 hectares (37,000 acres) of laurissilva remain on Madeira, mostly on the northern side of the island. 90% of the laurissilva is primary forest, and includes trees up to 800 years old that predate settlement of the islands. The remaining 10% is secondary growth in areas that were last cut during the mid-20th century.[2]
483 square kilometres (186 sq mi) (60%) of the ecoregion is inprotected areas.[1]Madeira Natural Park, established in 1982, protects an area of 444 square kilometres (171 sq mi), covering most of Madeira including the island's remaining laurissilva forests. From the 1980s goats and sheep were removed from the forests and the non-forested areas of the park, which has allowed the forest understory and shrublands to recover.
The Madeira Islands laurel forest was designated aWorld Heritage Site byUNESCO in 1999, covering an area of 150 square kilometres (58 sq mi).[2] It is believed to be 90% primordial forest. The paleobotanical record of the island of Madeira reveals that the laurel forest existed on this island at least 1.8 million years ago.[8]
UNESCO justified the inclusion of this place within the world heritage precisely because it is the largest remaining laurel forest, in the past spread throughout Europe while today is practically extinct. In addition, this type of forest is considered a center of plant biodiversity and contains numerous endemic, residual and rare species, especially bryophytes, ferns and flowering plants. It also has a very rich invertebrate fauna, appearing among the endemic species of the island, theMadeira laurel pigeon.[9]
The Selvagens were made a nature reserve in 1971, and the Desertas in 1990.[10]
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| Centro | ||
| Lisbon |
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| Alentejo |
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| Azores |
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| Madeira | ||