The termLederhosen (/ˈleɪdərˌhoʊzən/;German pronunciation:[ˈleːdɐˌhoːzn̩]ⓘ, singular in German usage:Lederhose,German:[ˈleːdɐˌhoːzə]ⓘ; lit. "Leather Pants") is used inEnglish to refer specifically to the traditionalleatherbreeches worn by men inSouthern Germany (specifically inBavaria andSwabia),Austria,South Tyrol andSlovenia. The termTrachten Lederhose is often used in German to avoid confusion with other types of leather pants. The longer trousers are generally calledBundhosen.[1]
Lederhosen probably originated during thelate Middle Ages.[1] They were worn for hard physical work, as they were more durable than fabric garments. Today, they are mostly worn asleisurewear. Lederhosen anddirndl attire are also common atOktoberfest events around the world.
La Couturière Parisienne stated that lederhosen were originally not exclusively Bavarian garments, but were worn all over Europe, especially by riders, hunters, and other people involved in outdoor activities. The flap (drop front), though, may have been a unique Bavarian invention. The drop-front style became so popular in the 18th century that it was known in France asà la bavaroise, "in the Bavarian style".[2]
While there are Lederhosen that go past the knee, these were mostly worn for special occasions; the everyday form of Lederhosen in the Austrian and BavarianAlps were cut above the knee. Workers and hunters alike preferred the added mobility, especially in the steep slopes of theEastern Alps. While the exact origin of this cut is uncertain, the first written account of its use was made byAugust Lewald during his tour ofTuxertal, Tyrol, Austria in 1835.[3]
While the popularity of lederhosen remained constant in the depths of the Eastern Alps, their everyday use steadily declined along the outer edges of the mountain range. Nowhere was this more bemoaned than in the Upper Bavarian town ofBayrischzell, where school teacher Joseph Vogl set out to preserve this Alpine tradition. In 1883, he established the Association for the Preservation of the National Costume in theLeitzach Valley and in Bayrischzell.[4] This association became the model for other preservation clubs known asTrachtenvereine, which spread across the outer edges of the Eastern Alps; from Munich toSalzburg and toVienna.[5] In Bavaria, the efforts to preserve traditional clothing and bolster a Bavarian identity were endorsed by the ruling class.King Ludwig II supported the creation ofTrachtenvereine, andKing Ludwig III famously wore lederhosen on trips to the Alps to show support for their preservation.[6]
Lederhosen are also part of the traditional costume ofSwabia and its former portion of theBlack Forest in present-dayBaden-Württemberg, but the lederhosen in these areas were always worn below the knee and never in the short style common in Bavaria.[7][8] These knee-lengthBundhosen are cuffed at the bottom, also unlike their Bavarian counterparts. While plaid shirts were worn with Swabian lederhosen at times, they are historically more commonly worn with a whitelinen shirt and colorful vest, most commonly red.[9] Also unique to the region is the color of the lederhosen. In contrast to brown, most Swabians, including farmers, wore black, while the region's winemakers wore yellow. These lederhosen also have a decorative motif that is unique to the region. Today, lederhosen and so-called traditional costumes are worn mainly for local festivals and partially designed according to modern fashion trends.[10][11]
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