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Lardon

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Small cubes of fatty pork, possibly cured
Not to be confused withLard orLardo.
Preparation of lardons from fatback
The lardon, onions and garlic being prepared for acoq au vin

Alardon, also spelledlardoon, is a small strip or cube of fattybacon, orpork fat (usuallysubcutaneous fat), used in a wide variety of cuisines toflavor savory food and salads. InFrench cuisine, lardons are also used for larding, by threading them with a needle into meats that are to be braised or roasted. Lardons are not normally smoked, and they are made from pork that has been cured with salt.

InFrench cuisine, lardons are served hot in salads and salad dressings, as well as on sometartes flambées, stews such asbeef bourguignon,quiches such asQuiche Lorraine, inomelettes, with potatoes, and for other dishes such ascoq au vin.

TheOxford English Dictionary defines "lardon" as "one of the pieces of bacon or pork which are inserted in meat in the process of larding", giving primacy to that process.[1] According to theMiddle English Dictionary, the earliest occurrence of the word is in 1381, in the workThe Forme of Cury; it advises to insert lardons incranes andherons.[2]

Preparation

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Lardons may be prepared from differentcuts of pork, includingpork belly andfatback, or from cured cuts such asbacon[3] orsalt pork. According to food writer Regina Schrambling, when the lardon is salt-cured but not smoked in the style of American bacon, "the flavor comes through cleanly, more like ham but richer because the meat is from the belly of the pig, not the leg".[4] The meat (fat) is usually cut into small strips or cubes about one centimeter (38 inch) wide, thenblanched orfried.

Some chefs recommend usingpancetta as a substitute;[5]ham is also suggested.[6]

Usage

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Tartiflette with lardons
Fougasse deFoix, a provincial French bread filled with meltedgruyère cheese (reblochon cheese can also be used), bacon lardons, andcrème fraîche

It is common for the lardons to be used for two distinct purposes in the same dish. The fat rendered from the cubed pork is good forsautéing vegetables or meat during the early stages of a recipe, and the crisp browned pork cubes can be added as a garnish or ingredient just before serving: "the crispy bits are used to add a smoky, salty flavor and a pleasant crunch to all kinds of dishes". The rich flavor pairs well with cheeses and sturdy leaf vegetables like spinach and frisée, for which the hot rendered fat can be used as part of thesalad dressing.[7]

Lardons are frequently used inFrench cuisine to flavor salads,stews (such asbeef bourguignon andcoq au vin[8]),quiches (quiche Lorraine), potatoes,omelettes and other dishes.[9] A particular Parisian use of lardons is in thesalade aux lardons, a wilted salad (often made withfrisée (endive)[10] lettuce) in which the lettuce leaves are wilted slightly by the addition of still-hot lardons and hotvinaigrette.[11] A nineteenth-century recipe for apie à la chasse calls for beef to be larded with lardons made of ham and bacon.[6] A traditional dish from theAlsace region is thetarte flambée, a thin pizza-like bread covered withcrème fraîche,onion, and lardons.[12][13] A regional specialty from theSavoie istartiflette, which is made withpotatoes,reblochon cheese,cream, and lardons.[14]

Larding

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Larding of a piece of beef, using a larding needle

A traditional use for lardons is in a technique called "larding", in which long strips of chilled pork fat are threaded (with the use of a needle) into meats that are to be braised or roasted, such asbeef filets or veal (especially lean cuts[15]),poultry,[16] and leanfish such astuna.[17][18] These lardons are cut in strips about 3 mm thick and 3 mm wide, and the fat is chilled before cutting and threading. The technique is explained at length in the classic book ofFrench cuisineLa bonne cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange, which details two techniques: surface larding, or "studding", in which the lardons are threaded onto the surface, and interior larding, in which the lardons are left in a channel (made with a larger-sized needle than is used for studding) inside the meat.[19]

Madame St. Ange recommends larding forbraised calf's sweetbreads[20] (as doesThe French Laundry Cookbook[21]) and for a specific style of cookinghare.[22] American food writerJames Peterson specifically recommends using fatback for larding; salt pork, he says, "has a funny taste and won't work".[23]Julia Child recommends using lard or porkbellies (pancetta); she too thinks that neither salt pork nor bacon work, and suggestsblanching these first, to get rid of the overwhelming cured or smoked flavors.

The origin of larding is in the Middle Ages, when hunting game was a popular activity amongst the upper classes and the meat acquired from it was often too lean and tough because of the animal's natural physical activity; larding provided the equivalent of today'smarbling.

The needle used is a larding needle (also "barding needle" orlardoir).[23] There are two basic kinds of larding needle, hollow and U-shaped. Hollow larding needles are about 5 mm in diameter with some sort of teeth or hook to keep the lard strip attached; they are passed completely through the meat. U-shaped larding needles, often called by the French namelardoir, are long needles with a "U" cross-section.

Four larding needles, accompanied by two crossedturning spits, are found in the coat of arms of theConfrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, a French gastronomic society.[24]

In other cuisines

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In many cuisines around the world, pork fat is used as a flavoring, and lardons are found in various other cultures. InPuerto Rico, they are calledtocino and are added to dishes such asarroz con gandules.

InDutch cuisine lardons are used in many traditional dishes such asstamppot, and the split pea soupsnert.

See also

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References

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  1. ^"Lardon".Oxford English Dictionary. 1987.
  2. ^Lewis, Robert E.; Kurath, Hans (1970)."Lardon".Middle English Dictionary, L.2. Vol. 7. U of Michigan P. p. 657.ISBN 978-0-472-01122-3. Retrieved26 February 2010.See alsohttps://quod.lib.umich.edu/m/middle-english-dictionary/bibliography/BIB2732?rid=hyp.810.19981211t105002
  3. ^von Starkloff Rombauer, Irma; Marion Rombauer Becker; Ethan Becker; Maria Guarnaschelli (1997).Joy of cooking. Simon and Schuster. p. 705.ISBN 978-0-684-81870-2. Retrieved25 February 2010.
  4. ^Schrambling, Regina (2005-03-16)."The taste of bacon, cubed".Los Angeles Times.ISSN 0458-3035. Retrieved2019-06-28.
  5. ^Schrambling, Regina (16 March 2005)."The taste of bacon, cubed".Los Angeles Times. Retrieved25 February 2010.
  6. ^abDolby, Richard (1833).The cook's dictionary, and housekeeper's directory. H. Colburn & R. Bentley. p. 55. Retrieved26 February 2010.
  7. ^Diluna, Amy (14 July 2002)."Special Ingredient: Lardon".New York Daily News. Archived fromthe original on 4 June 2011. Retrieved26 February 2010.
  8. ^"Lardons: Chef's secret ingredient".Sacramento Bee. 28 November 2007. pp. F3. Retrieved25 February 2010.
  9. ^Worthington, Diane Rossen (2003).French. Pan Macmillan. p. 37.ISBN 978-1-4050-3558-3.
  10. ^Lomonaco, Michael; Andrew Friedman (2004).Nightly Specials: 125 Recipes for Spontaneous, Creative Cooking at Home. HarperCollins. p. 15.ISBN 978-0-06-055562-7. Retrieved26 February 2010.
  11. ^Peterson, James (2002)."Green Salad with Bacon (Salade aux Lardons)".Glorious French food: a fresh approach to the classics. John Wiley and Sons. pp. 52–53.ISBN 978-0-471-44276-9.
  12. ^Villegas, Maria (2005). "Tarte flambée".The food of France: a journey for food lovers. Murdoch Books. p. 56.ISBN 978-1-74045-471-1. Retrieved26 February 2010.tarte flambee.
  13. ^Schuffenecker, Gérard; Alain Kauffmann (1997)."La tarte flambée; Flammekueche".Connaître la cuisine alsacienne (in French). Editions Jean-Paul Gisserot. pp. 32–33.ISBN 978-2-87747-286-9. Retrieved26 February 2010.
  14. ^Willan, Anne (2007)."Tartiflette: Potato and Reblochon Cheese Melt".The Country Cooking of France. Chronicle Books. p. 60.ISBN 978-0-8118-4646-2. Retrieved26 February 2010.
  15. ^Riely, Elizabeth (2003).The chef's companion: a culinary dictionary. John Wiley and Sons. p. 165.ISBN 978-0-471-39842-4. Retrieved26 February 2010.
  16. ^Dolby474.
  17. ^Willan60.
  18. ^Ellis, Merle (12 May 1982)."Old-fashioned needle eyes beef trend". Reading Eagle. p. 27. Retrieved26 February 2010.
  19. ^Ébrard, Evelyn (2005).La bonne cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange: the original companion for French home cooking. Paul Aratow (trans.). Ten Speed Press. pp. 11–13.ISBN 978-1-58008-605-9. Retrieved25 February 2010.
  20. ^Ébrard303.
  21. ^Keller, Thomas; Susie Heller; Michael Ruhlman; Deborah Jones (January 1999).The French Laundry Cookbook. Artisan Books. p. 213.ISBN 978-1-57965-126-8. Retrieved26 February 2010.
  22. ^Ébrard416.
  23. ^abPeterson523.
  24. ^"History of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs".Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Archived fromthe original on 28 February 2010. Retrieved25 February 2010.

External links

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Look uplarding in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
Wikimedia Commons has media related toLardons.
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