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Kumis is adairy product similar tokefir, but is produced from a liquidstarter culture, in contrast to the solid kefir "grains". Because mare's milk contains more sugars than cow's or goat's milk, when fermented,kumis has a higher, though still mild,alcohol content compared to kefir.
Even in the areas of the world wherekumis is popular today, mare's milk remains a very limited commodity. Industrial-scale production, therefore, generally uses cow's milk, which is richer in fat andprotein, but lower inlactose than the milk from a horse. Beforefermentation, the cow's milk is fortified in one of several ways.Sucrose may be added to allow a comparable fermentation. Another technique adds modifiedwhey to better approximate the composition of mare's milk.[3]
InMongolia, the drink is calledairag (айраг)[7] or, in some areas,tsegee.William of Rubruck, in his 13th-century travels, calls the drinkcosmos and describes its preparation among theMongols.[8]
Rinchingiin Indra, writing about Mongolian dairying, says "it takes considerable skill to milk a mare" and describes the technique: the milker kneels on one knee, with a pail propped on the other, steadied by a string tied to an arm. One arm is wrapped behind the mare's rear leg and the other in front. A foal starts the milk flow and is pulled away by another person, but left touching the mare's side during the entire process.[9]
In Mongolia, the milking season for horses traditionally runs between mid-June and early October. During one season, a mare produces approximately 1,000 to 1,200 litres of milk, of which about half is left to her foal.[10]
Traditionally, this fermentation took place in horse-hide containers, which might be left on the top of ayurt and turned over on occasion, or strapped to a saddle and joggled around over the course of a day's riding. Today, a wooden vat or plastic barrel may be used in place of the leather container.[11] In modern, controlled production, the initial fermentation takes two to five hours, at a temperature of around 27 °C (81 °F); this may be followed by a cooler aging period.[12]
Kumis itself has a very low level of alcohol, between 0.7 and 2.5%.[13]Kumis can, however, be strengthened throughfreeze distillation, a technique Central Asian nomads are reported to have employed.[14] It can also be made into thedistilled beverage known asarkhi.[15]
Kumyss, in the intestinal disorders of infants and young children
Archaeological investigations of theBotai culture of ancientKazakhstan have revealed traces of milk in bowls from the site ofBotai, suggesting the domestication of dairy animals.[16] No specific evidence for its fermentation has yet been found, but considering the location of the Botai culture and the nutritional properties of mare's milk, the possibility is high.
Kumis is an ancient beverage.Herodotus, in his 5th-century BCHistories, describes theScythians processing of mare's milk:
Now the Scythians blind all their slaves, to use them in preparing their milk. The plan they follow is to thrust tubes made of bone, not unlike our musical pipes, up the vulva of the mare, and then to blow into the tubes with their mouths, some milking while the others blow. They say that they do this because when the veins of the animal are full of air, the udder is forced down. The milk thus obtained is poured into deep wooden casks, about which the blind slaves are placed, and then the milk is stirred round. That which rises to the top is drawn off, and considered the best part; the under portion is of less account.[17]
This is widely believed to be the first description of ancient kumis-making.[18] Apart from the idiosyncratic method of mare-milking,[19] it matches up well enough with later accounts, such as this one given by 13th-century travellerWilliam of Rubruck:
Thiscosmos, which is mare's milk, is made in this wise. [...] When they have got together a great quantity of milk, which is as sweet as cow's as long as it is fresh, they pour it into a big skin or bottle, and they set to churning it with a stick [...] and when they have beaten it sharply it begins to boil up like new wine and to sour or ferment, and they continue to churn it until they have extracted the butter. Then they taste it, and when it is mildly pungent, they drink it. It is pungent on the tongue like rapé wine when drunk, and when a man has finished drinking, it leaves a taste ofmilk of almonds on the tongue, and it makes the inner man most joyful and also intoxicates weak heads, and greatly provokes urine.[20]
Rubruk also mentions that the Mongols prized a variety of kumis he callscaracomos ("black comos"), which was reserved for "great lords".
Kumis-flavored ice cream at a restaurant inAstana, Kazakhstan
Strictly speaking,kumis is in its own category ofalcoholic drinks, because it is made neither from fruit nor from grain. Technically, it is closer to wine than to beer, because the fermentation occurs directly from sugars (wine is usually fermented directly from fruit, whereas beer relies on starches, usually from grain, which convert to sugars bymashing). In terms of experience and traditional manner of consumption, however, it is much more comparable to beer and is even milder in alcoholic content than beer. It is arguably the region's beer equivalent.
Kumis is very light in body compared to most dairy drinks. It has a unique, slightly sour flavor[23] with a bite from the mild alcoholic content. The exact flavor is greatly variable between different producers.
Kumis is usually served cold or chilled. Traditionally it is sipped out of small, handle-less, bowl-shaped cups or saucers, calledpiyala. The serving of it is an essential part of Kyrgyz hospitality on thejayloo or high pasture, where they keep their herds of animals (horse, cattle, and sheep) during the summer phase oftranshumance.
During theYuan dynasty of China, kumis was essentially made to be the replacement of tea. Furthermore,Möngke Khan, the fourth Great Khan of theMongol Empire, had a drinking fountain made in his capital ofKarakorum that included kumis alongside Chineserice wine,mead, and Persiangrape wine, as a symbol of the empire's diversity and size.[24]
The famous Russian writerLeo Tolstoy inA Confession spoke of running away from his troubled life by drinkingkumis.[29]
The Russian composerAlexander Scriabin was recommended a kumis diet and "water cure" by his doctor in his twenties, for his nervous condition and right-hand injury.
The Japanese soft drinkCalpis models its flavor after the taste ofkumis.[30]
^Zeder, Melinda A. (2006).Documenting Domestication: New Genetic and Archaeological Paradigms. University of California Press. p. 264.ISBN0-520-24638-1.
^The spelling in William's manuscripts varies, and the most recent editor,Paolo Chiesa, prefers "comos". SeeGuglielmo di Rubruk, Viaggio in Mongolia (Itinerarium), a cura di Paolo Chiesa, Milano, Fondazione Lorenzo Valla, Mondadori, 2011.
^Indra, Rinchingiin (2003). "Mongolian Dairy Products". In Dendev Badarch, Raymond A Zilinskas (ed.).Mongolia Today: Science, Culture, Environment and Development. Routledge. p. 74.ISBN0-7007-1598-3.
