Modern Kragujevac is known for its large munitions (Zastava Arms) and automobile (Fiat Serbia) industries, as well as its status as an education centre housing theUniversity of Kragujevac, one of the region's largest higher education institutions.
The nameKragujevac comes from 'kraguj' the Serbian name forcinereous vulture. In the Middle Ages, this bird was common in the woods of the area, and was used for hunting. The city's name means 'kraguj's tower', and the bird is represented on the city's coat of arms.[4]
Over 200 archaeological sites in Šumadija confirm that the region's first human settlement took place around 40,000 years ago during thePaleolithic era. The Jerina cave, located near the village ofGradac in the direction ofBatočina, is dated to have been inhabited from around 37,000BP to 27,000 BP.Dugouts dated to 5,000 BC have been found in the city's vicinity, in the localities ofGrivac,Kusovac,Divostin,Donje Grbice andDobrovodica.[5] These remains belong to theNeolithicStarčevo culture, which, in this area, spread along the river valleys of Lepenica andGruža. The best known artifacts are the fertility figurines calledDivostinke ("Girls from Divostin").[6]
At the time ofRoman conquest in 9 AD, the territory of the present-day city was largely inhabited byIllyrians (mainly theDardani) andCelts (theScordisci).[5] By the late 6th and early 7th centuries, large-scale Slavic raids and settlement began, along with invasions fromHunnic andGermanic tribes. Later, the area would become part of theFirst Bulgarian Empire. With the weakening of both the Bulgarian andEastern Roman empires,Stefan Nemanja, Grand Prince of the consolidatedmedieval Serbian state, captured the territory between 1198 and 1199. Although it is hypothesized that the current area of the city was densely settled by the time of Stefan Nemanja's conquest, it does not appear in medieval Serbian documents.[5]
The first written mention of the city was in anOttomancadastral survey (defter) in 1476 after the city's incorporation into theSanjak of Smederevo.[7] Referred to as 'Kraguyfoça', the settlement, after Ottoman conquest, consisted of a square formerly used as a market with 32 houses. The surrounding region was largely empty; even the forests that once dominated the region had been burned. By the end of the same century, however, the Ottoman administration began to slowly resettle the city's area; by the 1536 cadastral survey, the town had 7 Muslim neighborhoods (mahalas) with 56 houses in total, along with a Christian community of 29 houses. On the left bank of the Lepenica, a mosque was erected.[5][8]
In spite of its newfound consolidation under Turkish rule, the town's location in strategic borderland between theHabsburg monarchy and the Ottoman Empire made it an area of frequent conflict in the modern era. During theGreat Turkish War, the Austrians, underLouis of Baden, pushed the Turks far to the south of the city. Although this occupation was short-lived, it spelled an end to consolidated Ottoman rule in the region. Soon after, in 1718, Kragujevac became a part of theHabsburg Kingdom of Serbia following conquest byPrince Eugene of Savoy and the signing ofTreaty of Passarowitz.
Under Austrian occupation, Kragujevac was fortified, the Muslim population was driven out and it became an uskok town. It was exclusively inhabited by Serbian Orthodox members of the national militia with their families. As one of the districts lying right on the Ottoman border, moreover, it was controlled by anuskok company (of the fourteen that guarded the frontier) and found itself under military jurisdiction. Accordingly, its chief was a Serbian military officer, First CaptainStaniša Marković Mlatišuma, the second highest authority of theSerbian militia. In 1725 the first officially recorded cases ofvampirism occurred in Kragujevac, in which two alleged vampires were accused of murdering 42 people.[9] In other parts of Habsburg ruled Kingdom of Serbia similar cases followed after which theSerbian word vampir enteredGerman and later other world languages.[10] As the Ottomans retook the town in 1739, and lost it again in 1789 to the same enemy, the town was ripe for new rule—this time under Serbian rebels.[5][11]
As a settlement central to theSanjak of Smederevo under Ottoman rule, Kragujevac was of utmost strategic importance to its agitating, largely rural Serb inhabitants. Therefore, it became a centre of theSerbian Revolution, a national awakening of Serbs led by the grandvožd,Karađorđe. First liberated on 5 April 1804 during theFirst Serbian Uprising, the city was finally freed from imperial rule during theSecond Serbian Uprising in 1815.[citation needed]
In 1818, Kragujevac, though largely depopulated following the conflicts of the preceding centuries, was proclaimed capital of thePrincipality of Serbia on 6 May 1818 byMiloš Obrenović in the medievalVraćevšnica monastery. To mark the occasion, he built the Royal residence on the left bank of the Lepenica river.Amidža Konak is the only remaining building from the complex and the only landmark of 19th century Ottoman architecture in the city.[12] The first institutions of the Principality of Serbia were founded in Kragujevac including the first courthouse,First gymnasium (grammar school) and thePrincely Serbian theatre. The first Serbian constitution, theSretenje Constitution, was proclaimed in the city on 15 September 1835. It was one of the most liberal European constitutions of its time, modeled on the French and Belgian constitutions.
Although the capital was moved from Kragujevac toBelgrade in 1841, the importance of Kragujevac only increased during the remainder of the 19th century as it grew into a city marked by its industry. Following centuries of economic underdevelopment, the underpinnings of the city's modernization—and Serbia's main munitions manufacturer,Zastava Arms—were laid in the commissioning of the city's foundry complex in 1835. Known under its Serbian acronym VTZ, the complex was completed in 1850, and the first cannon was cast in 1853. Colloquially styled the 'Knez's arsenal', its first director, Charles Loubry, was a French engineer authorized to take over this duty by the Emperor of France, Napoleon III.[13]
The Kragujevac cannon foundry in its working days as part of the VTZ
Following the creation of the VTZ, industrial development continued at an unprecedented pace. The firsttelephone exchange was installed in 1858, and in 1868 the first industrial brewery was opened by Nikola Mesarović. The first printing press was founded in 1870. To connect the city's burgeoning military industry as well as its production of iron ploughs to the rest of Serbia's regions, theBelgrade–Niš railroad was built in 1886. To serve its industrial population, Serbia's first grammar school (gimnazija), the city's first pharmacy, and its first cinema, located in a localkafana, were all built during the remainder of the 19th century, along with Kragujevac's Great (or Upper) Park and, in 1891, its first regulatory urban plan.[5][14] The city's industrialism characterized it among its European peers, along with its workers' demonstrations, known as theCrveni barjak ('Red banner') demonstrations, first held on 27 February 1876.[13]Today, the beginnings of the town's industry, the now-defunct VTZ, have been recognized by the Serbian government as vital to Serbia's cultural heritage and, as of 2017, consists of 151 individual objects, of which 31 are protected as unique heritage, including the old foundry, the machine workshop, the chimney, thefire lookout tower, the railroad bridge over the Lepenica River, and thecartridge factory. Once known by its non-industrial residents as the 'Forbidden City' (Zabranjeni Grad), the complex is now open to the public.[13]
DuringWorld War I, Kragujevac again became the capital of Serbia (1914–1915), and the seat of many state institutions—the Supreme Army Command was housed within the courthouse building.[5][15]
A unit of the Scottish Women's Hospital for Women's Service was based there from December 1914 to November 1915. A list of those working in the hospital can be viewed on the website "Imperial War Museum: Lives of the First World War " and more information on these units is below.[16]
During the war, Kragujevac lost around 15% of its population. On the night of 2 June 1918, a group of occupying Slovak soldiers from the Austro-Hungarian 71st infantry regiment mutinied in the city centre. The soldiers, led by Viktor Kolibík, had recently returned from captivity in Russia and were to be immediately deployed to the Italian Front. The mutiny failed, and 44 mutineers were executed.[17]
Following World War I, Kragujevac became a part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes, later renamed theKingdom of Yugoslavia. In the period before the Second World War, the city continued its cultural and economic development with the founding of the Gundulić Theatre and the Kragujevac Academic Theatre as well as a number of new factories.[18]
King Peter's Street
Following the Naziinvasion of Yugoslavia, the city came underdirect Nazi occupation. After a jointPartisan-Chetnik attack on German forces in nearbyGornji Milanovac,GeneralfeldmarschallWilhelm Keitel calculated that 50 people were to be shot for every German soldier wounded and 100 people were to be shot for every German soldier killed.Franz Böhme therefore ordered the deaths of nearly 2,800 men and boys between 19 and 21 October 1941 in theKragujevac massacre.[19][20] The dead included a class from the city's First Gymnasium; today, a monument to the executed pupils is the symbol of the city.[21] The massacre inspired a poem titledKrvava Bajka (A Bloody Fairy Tale) byDesanka Maksimović.[22]
The city was liberated from Nazi Germany on 21 October 1944.[5]
In the post-war period, Kragujevac continued to develop its industry. Its main products were passenger cars, trucks and industrial vehicles, hunting arms, industrial chains, leather, and textiles. The biggest industry wasZastava Automobiles, which at one point employed tens of thousands people.[23]
The first product of theZastava Automobiles car company, the FIAT 750, was manufactured in 1955 under a licence toFiat Automobiles (now Fiat Serbia). In the following three decades, more than five million passenger cars (FIAT 750, Zastava 1300, Zastava 101, Zastava 128, Zastava Yugo, Yugo Florida,Fiat 500L) were manufactured and marketed in 74 countries worldwide.[24] Perhaps most famous among the automobiles produced is theYugo, also marketed as the Zastava Korral.
The city today remains an industrial heart of Serbia, and has grown with the influx of students and refugees from the Yugoslav wars. In 2010, the city government signed a memorandum with the German development agencyGIZ and in 2012 city hall adopted a strategy of urban development of the central city zone to be completed by 2030. As of December 2017, many objects within the complex deteriorated and the right bank of the Lepenica is urbanistically neglected. The authenticity and representative values of the complex must be preserved, but where it is allowed, the industrial and workers quarters will be transformed into the residential and commercial areas, traffic corridors and used for the numerous educational and cultural institutions Serbia's industrial city continues to cherish.[13]
Kragujevac lies 180 metres (591 feet)above sea level.[26] The coordinates of the city are 44°00'36.3 N and 20°55'01.9 E. It is located in the valley of the riverLepenica. The city covers an area of 835 square kilometres (322 sq mi), surrounded by the slopes of theRudnik,Crni Vrh, andGledić mountains.[26] Kragujevac is the traditional centre ofŠumadija, a region characterized by its rolling hills and fertile orchards.[26]
The architecture of Kragujevac displays a fusion of many different styles. Historically, Ottoman (nowadays almost completely gone) and 19th centuryVienna Secession style architecture have played an important role in the city's landscape.[27]
Newer architecture dominates the city's panorama. A blend of Viennese, Balkan as well asBrutalism is present, as showcased in the monuments to the Kragujevac massacre.[28] Post-war concrete apartment blocks built during theSocialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia period are prominent.[28] Today, glass office buildings reflect the ambitious business aspirations of the city. Some important buildings in Kragujevac include:
The "old" (or "Pridvorina") church of Descent of the Holy Spirit, built in 1818 as a part of Prince Miloš's court[29]
The Old Parliament, built in the court of the church where the first parliamentary meeting was held in 1859
The Amidža Konak, built by Prince Miloš as a residential house (now exhibition) and an example of regional Serbian architecture[30]
The Prince Mihailo Konak, built in 1860 to blend local tradition with European architectural concepts and now the National Museum
The grammar school (gimnazija), built between 1885 and 1887 in European style to serve as the first educational institution of its kind in Serbia, educating prominent Serbian figures such asSvetozar Marković,Nikola Pašić, andRadomir Putnik
The Upper (Great) Park is the largest park in Kragujevac. It was established in 1898. It is covered with more than 10 hectares (25 acres) of greenery, and a dense canopy of century-old trees, renovated walkways and benches are the right place for rest, walk and relaxation. In the park and its immediate vicinity there are sports facilities for basketball, football, volleyball, tennis, and indoor and outdoor swimming pools.[28] Lower (Small) Park is located in the city centre, within the Milos Wreath complex. At its centre there is a monument to the Fallen People ofŠumadija. The Ilina Voda park, a legacy of Svetozar Andrejević, was established in 1900. It covers an area of 7 hectares (17 acres).
There is a fountain with a small waterfall, five mini lakes connected by a small stream, and a small zoo with about 100 animals and a garden with various types of trees characteristic of Šumadija. The curiosity in the park is the largest sculpture of Easter eggs (3 metres (10 ft) high) inEurope and the second in theworld; made from recycled metal, set in 2004.[31] Scenic attractions nearby include theAranđelovac,Gornji Milanovac,Vrnjačka Banja, andMataruška Banja, Karađorđe's castle, the Church of Saint George inTopola 40 kilometres (25 miles) away, the Old Kalenić monastery 55 kilometres (34 miles) away, the resorts of Rogot (28 km (17 mi)) and Stragari (34 km (21 mi)) with the old Blagoveštenje and Voljavča monasteries.
Kragujevac has developed transportation infrastructure, with a variety of road connections to the Serbian capital, Belgrade. It can be reached using Serbian IB-class roads 24 (an expressway) and 25. In the coming years, the city will also be accessible viaPan-European Corridor X or, in Serbia, theA1 motorway. The town is also connected to nearby Jagodina and Gornji Milanovac via class IIA road numbers 170 and 176 (via Bar, Montenegro), respectively.[32]
Kragujevac is connected by bus lines with almost all cities in the country. The most frequent departures (every half-hour) are to Belgrade. The central bus station is about a kilometre away from the city centre. Kragujevac can also be reached by train. The central train station is located close to the central bus station.[33]
The company responsible forpublic transportation in Kragujevac is the City Traffic Agency (GSA). The integrated public transport is performed by two companies: Arriva Litas and Vulović Transport. There are 22 urban bus lines and 14 lines that connect nearby rural areas operating according to established timetable.[34] There are also 7taxi and 3rent-a-car companies operating in Kragujevac.[35]Car parking system with 10 parking lots and zoned street parking (three zones with 4,244 parking spaces) is operated bypublic service company Parking Service Kragujevac.[36]
Kragujevac has ahumid subtropical climate (Köppen climate classification:Cfa), and with a July mean temperature of 22.6 °C (72.7 °F). Winds most often blow from southwest and northwest, while they often blow from southeast in January, February and March.[37]
Climate data for Kragujevac (1991–2020, extremes 1961–present)
According to the 2022 census results, the city proper has a population of 146,315, while the administrative area has a population of 171,186, 17% more than the city proper.
Around 70% (126,312 inhabitants) are of working age (aged 15 to 64). The employed population in 2014 was 42,148 (47.0% of whom were women), most of whom work inmetalworking (22%) and medical andsocial services (13%). 54.6% of persons older than 15 have only secondary education, while 17.7%% hold a college or university degree.[41]
Around 93% of total city area is covered with water supply system, 78% with sewage system, 72% with natural gas supply network, and 92% with cell phone networks.[42]
Kragujevac has been an important industrial and trading centre of Serbia for more than two centuries, known for its automotive and firearms industries. The former state-ownedZastava Automobiles company was purchased byFiat in 2008, and new company,FCA Srbija, was established.[46] Fiat was joined by partnersMagneti Marelli (exhaust systems and control panels),Johnson Controls (car seats and interiors), Sigit (thermoplastic and rubber components) and HTL (wheels).
Weapons manufacturing in Kragujevac began with foundation of the VTZ in 1853 and has since grown to become Serbia's primary supplier offirearms through theZastava Arms corporation.[47] Today, Zastava Arms exports more than 95% of its products to over forty countries in the world. By the decisions of theMinistry of Defence of Serbia, Zastava Arms became a part of the Defense Industry of Serbia in 2003. The most important partners of Zastava Arms areYugoimport SDPR, Army and Police of Serbia,Century Arms, and International Golden Group.[citation needed]
According to the National Bank of Serbia, there were 30 commercial banks operating in Serbia as of December 2016,[48] of whichDirektna Banka has its headquarters in Kragujevac.[49]
The Kragujevac Fair was established in 2005. It comprises 1,600 square metres (17,222 sq ft) of area dedicated to trade and exhibitions and 1,000 square metres (10,764 sq ft) of area for other activities (administration, Media centre, restaurant etc.).[50]
As of September 2017, Kragujevac contains one of 14free economic zones established in Serbia.[51]
The following table gives a preview of total number of registered people employed in legal entities per their core activity (as of 2022):[52]
Activity
Total
Agriculture, forestry and fishing
190
Mining and quarrying
27
Manufacturing
16,535
Electricity, gas, steam and air conditioning supply
760
Water supply; sewerage, waste management and remediation activities
1,030
Construction
2,411
Wholesale and retail trade, repair of motor vehicles and motorcycles
8,322
Transportation and storage
2,410
Accommodation and food services
2,172
Information and communication
1,336
Financial and insurance activities
828
Real estate activities
121
Professional, scientific and technical activities
2,365
Administrative and support service activities
1,675
Public administration and defense; compulsory social security
There are 22 primary and 8 secondary schools in Kragujevac.[53] There are also 3 special schools: a school for hearing impaired children,[54] the music school "Dr Miloje Milojević",[55] and the school for children with disabilities "Vukašin Marković".[56]
TheUniversity of Kragujevac was established on 21 May 1976. It is the fourth largest university in Serbia and is organized into 12 faculties and two institutes which are spread over six nearby cities (Kragujevac,Čačak,Kraljevo,Užice,Jagodina andVrnjačka Banja). Around 16,000 students are currently enrolled at the university. It has around 1,350 employees, out of which 900 are teaching and research staff.[57]
The University Library in Kragujevac is of a generally scientific character, and its primary users are university teaching staff and students. Its area is 1,500 square metres (16,000square feet) and includes several storage rooms, a reading area and the university gallery. The library keeps around 100,000 copies of books, 2,500 doctoral and master thesis, 450 titles of domestic journals and 105 titles of foreign journals.[58]
The National Museum, with various displays including those pertaining to archaeology, ethnic diversity, the history of Kragujevac and Šumadija, and many paintings (the archaeology department has a rich collection of 10,000 display items and over 100,000 study items, while the painting department has over 1,000 pieces of prominent Serbian art of extraordinary value)[59]
The "Old Foundry Museum", located within the old gun foundry, presents the industrial development of Kragujevac and Serbia using a collection of 5,800 pieces: weapons and equipment, machines and tools, archive material, photos, paintings, trophies and medals.[60]
TheHistorical Archives of Šumadija, collecting and filing the archives and issues of the seven municipalities of Šumadija and has at its disposal 700 metres (2,297 feet) of archive issues with 780 registries and hundreds of thousands of original historical documents
There are three fine and applied arts associations in Kragujevac: the Art KG, the branch of the Serbian Association of Painters ULUS and the Association of Painters of Kragujevac, the ULUK. The most important annual and biannual cultural events include:
Kragujevac is home toČika Dača Stadium, the third largest stadium inSerbia byseat capacity. The largest and most important sports association in Kragujevac is Radnički, which brings together 19 clubs: football, athletics, volleyball, handball, boxing, wrestling etc.FK Radnički 1923 is the city's most successfulfootball club and competes in theSerbian SuperLiga. Kragujevac is also known for having the oldest Serbian football club founded in the Kingdom of Serbia,FK Šumadija 1903.[61]
The Faculty of Economics of the university in Kragujevac is the founder of thefutsal clubKMF Ekonomac. The club was founded by Professor Veroljub Dugalić, severalteaching assistants and a group of Faculty of Economics students on 7 November 2000. The club is playing in Serbia'sPrva Futsal Liga and has won the Serbian championship eight times andSerbian Futsal Cup twice.
Radomir Putnik, first Serbian Field Marshal (Voivoda), Chief of the General Staff (1890–1892, 1903–1905, 1908–1915), andMinister of Defense (1904–1905, 1906–1908, 1912)
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