Ibar Bridge,Sitnica River, Miners Monument,Ibar River, St. Dimitri Orthodox Church, Former Jadran Hotel, Sand's Mosque, Mitrovica at night panoramic view.
Mitrovica[a] orKosovska Mitrovica,[b] also referred to asSouth Mitrovica[c] orSouth Kosovska Mitrovica,[d] is a city in northernKosovo and administrative center of thedistrict of Mitrovica. In 2013, the city was split into two municipalities,South Mitrovica andNorth Mitrovica. Settled 10 km (6.2 mi) fromUjmani/Gazivoda Lake, on the confluence of the riversIbër,Sitnica, Lushta, and Trepça, the city is surrounded by the mountains ofKopaonik,Rogozna,Mokna, andÇyçavica. According to the 2024 census, the municipality had 72,662 inhabitants of which 64,742 reside in southern Mitrovica and 7,920 in northern Mitrovica.[1]
The history of Mitrovica is rooted in antiquity, with evidence of early settlements ofNeolithic andRoman-era artifacts discovered in the region. During theMiddle Ages, the area played an important role in theByzantine andSerbian Empires, while the modern city was founded during the rule of theOttoman Empire, being first mentioned in the 17th century. Its strategic location along trade routes made it an important center for commerce and cultural exchange during this time. The complex historical context of these foreign influences contributed to the diverse heritage and cultural mosaic of Mitrovica, which continues to be a notable aspect of the city's identity.[2]
In the modern era, Mitrovica's history has been marked by various events, including the industrial development ofTrepça Mines, a major mining and metallurgy complex, during theYugoslav period; theKosovo War and the ethnic divisions that emerged in its aftermath in 1999. In 2013, following theNorth Kosovo crisis, the city was divided by theIbar River into two separate municipalities, South Mitrovica with an ethnic Albanian majority and North Mitrovica with an ethnic Serb majority.[3]
Following theKosovo War in 1999 and the city's ethnic division, Mitrovica suffered economic collapse, turning from the economic center of Kosovo before 1999 to the poorest region in Kosovo after. According to the Kosovo Statistics Agency, of all urban municipalities in Kosovo, Mitrovica has the highest unemployment rate and the highest number of dependents from state transfers.[4]
Mitrovica is also an important university center with theUniversity of Mitrovica “Isa Boletini” in the south, the faculties of the parallel institution ofUniversity of Pristina in the north and several private universities.
The name of Mitrovica derives from the nameDemetrius. It was most probably named after the 8th century Byzantine churchSt. Demetrius which was built nearZvečan Fortress, just above the modern Mitrovica, in honor ofSaint Demetrius of Thessaloniki.[5]
The earliest evidence of the name of this city dates back to 1430 when it was mentioned in a Roman document as 'Dimitrovica.' In the Republic of Ragusa, in the documents 'Lamenta de foris' from 1446, the city was referred to asDe Dimitruic. Throughout the late Middle Ages and Ottoman era, various travelers documented the name of the city. The German travelerArnold von Harff mentioned Mitrovica in 1499 asMitrix, whileBenedikt Kuripečič, in 1530, referred to the city asBazar Mitrovica. In 1660, the Ottoman explorerEvliya Çelebi mentioned the city with the nameMitrovica for the first time. From 1878 to 1890, the city was known asMitrovica of Bazar, most probably due to the fact that it was under theSanjak of Novi Pazar (Jenipazar)".[5][6][7][8]
After PresidentTito's death in 1980, each of the constituent parts ofYugoslavia had to have one place named with the word "Tito" (or "Tito's") included, the city was then known asTitova Mitrovica (Титова Митровица) in Serbian orMitrovica e Titos in Albanian, until 1991.[9]
The official name of the city in theRepublic of Kosovo isMitrovicë orMitrovica (in Albanian) andMitrovica (in Serbian), reflecting its bilingual character and regional context. In Serbian context, the name is Kosovska Mitrovica (Serbian Cyrillic:Косовска Митровица) is used to distinguish it fromSremska Mitrovica, a city inVojvodina, Serbia. InTurkish, the city is calledMitroviça.
Since the split of the Municipality of Mitrovica into two municipalities in 2013, with the creation of Serb-majority municipality in the northern side, the official names of the municipalities have changed. The original Municipality of Mitrovica is now officially known asSouth Mitrovica (Albanian: Mitrovica e Jugut; Serbian: Јужна Митровица, romanized: Južna Mitrovica) while the newly formed municipality isNorth Mitrovica (Albanian: Mitrovica e Veriut; Serbian: Ceвepнa Митровица, romanized: Severna Mitrovica).[10][11]
There is archaeological evidence that proves the region of Mitrovica has been inhabited since theNeolithic era. The oldest settlements discovered in the area are the archeological sites of Zhitkoc, Karagaç and Vallaç, near Zvecan (around 5 km north of Mitrovica) and archaeological site ofFafos which is situated in the suburban area of Mitrovica.
The prosopomorphic lid (left) and the centaur figurine (right) found in theFafos archeological site
The archaeological site ofFafos is located in the suburban area of Mitrovica, within the industrial zone adjacent to the aphosphates production factory. This site underwent excavation between 1955 and 1961, covering a total area of approximately 1,200 square meters. The findings confirmed the presence of two separate Neolithic settlements associated with theVinča culture, situated about 200 meters apart from each other. The earlier settlement, referred to as Fafos I, consisted of characteristic semi-subterranean huts used for shelter. In contrast, the later settlement, known as Fafos II, featured house-huts arranged in a row. Notably, archaeological research indicated that a significant portion of the huts in both settlements had been destroyed by an extensive fire. Artifacts discovered in these settlements included various everyday objects such as cult items, ritual vases, and anthropomorphic figurines.[8][7][12][2][13]
The Neolithic site of Zhitkoc, situated approximately 3 km north of Zveçan, is positioned on a plateau near the Zhitkoc train station. In 1958, a series of preliminary excavations were conducted near the banks of the Ibër River, revealing the remains of a typical Neolithic settlement that belonged to both the earlierStarčevo culture and the laterVinča culture.
The adjacent archaeological site of Karagaç is found on a lower terrace along the riverbank and was investigated between 1955 and 1960. The archaeological findings indicated occupation during the middle Neolithic period. The settlement mainly consisted of semi-subterranean, elliptical huts, protected by ditches. Inside these dwellings, a significant amount of pottery associated with the Starcevo culture was uncovered. Furthermore, the settlement persisted into a later phase, with huts constructed from interwoven timber beams coated with earth/mud. Evidence from ceramic fragments and anthropomorphic figurines suggests that this settlement was also inhabited during the earlier stage of the Late Neolithic, specifically the Vinca culture. In addition to Neolithic artifacts, traces of a settlement and cemetery from theBronze andIron Ages were discovered in the same area, underscoring the continuity of human habitation from prehistoric times.
While there is limited historical evidence regarding the earlyMiddle Ages when the region was underByzantine rule, the period between the 9th and 15th centuries witnessed a series of significant events that made the area a focal point for conflicts involving theByzantine Empire, theMedieval Kingdom of Serbia, theBulgarian Empire andOttoman Empire, being ruled by each of them in different periods.[7]
During this time, the fortified settlement ofZvečan emerged as a key location, playing a pivotal role in the expansion and development of theKingdom of Serbia underNemanjić rule. Its strategic position made it a center of power in the region.[7][8]
Simultaneously, the settlement ofTrepca began to evolve into a thriving mining town. The development of mining activities and trade significantly contributed to the region's significance and economic growth.
TheZvecan Fortress overlooking the modern Mitrovica from the top of the extinct volcano vent
With theOttoman occupation in 1389, after theBattle of Kosovo, the fortified town of Zvecan turned into an active military site well into the 18th century, after which it was abandoned. During this time the population settled along the valley ofIbar andSitnica, founding this way the modern settlement of Mitrovica. Mitrovica probably got the name after the 8th century Byzantine church St. Demetrius which was built near Zvečan Fortress, just above the modern Mitrovica, in honor ofSaint Demetrius of Thessaloniki.[5][7][8]
SeveralRoman andRagusian documents mention the city respectively asDimitrovica in 1430 and 'De Dimitruic' 1446, while the German travelerArnold von Harff mentioned the city in 1499 as 'Mitrix.[7][8]
Several neighborhoods in the area of Trepča according to the Ottoman defter of the 16th century were Islamised and the other neighborhoods contained people with a mixture of Christian,Albanian and Slavic names. According to Selami Pulaha, the Ottoman defters of 1591 indicate that the area of Trepča in the 16th century had a significantAlbanian population, with someAlbanian names being combined with other Christian or Slavic names.[14]
UnderOttoman rule Mitrovica was a small city typical to the region. Rapid development came in the 19th century afterlead ore was discovered and mined in the region, providing what has historically been one of Kosovo's largest industries.
It became an industrial town, formerly the economic centre of Kosovo because of the nearbyTrepça Mines. It grew in size as a centre of trade and industry with the completion of the railway line toSkopje in 1873–1878, which linked Mitrovica to the port ofThessaloniki.[15] Another line later linked the town toBelgrade andWestern Europe.[15]
By 1890, Mitrovica had a population of 7,000 and it had a strategic importance. For this reason,Russian Empire andAustria-Hungary opened consulates in the town.[16]
During World War II, Mitrovica was part of the German occupation zone.
DuringWorld War II, it took the Germans one week to conquer the whole of Kosovo. Kosovo was then divided into three occupation zones specifically into the German, Italian and Bulgarian zones. The Germans, however, reserved the right to control the mines in Mitrovica, namely theTrepça Mines, and the railway line passing through Kosovo. Mitrovica became the head of an Austrian infantry division.[16] The city was part ofTerritory of the Military Commander in Serbia. In 1948, Mitrovica had a population of 13,901 and in the early 1990s of about 75,000.[15]
Both the town and municipality were badly affected by the 1999Kosovo War. According to theOrganization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE), the area had been the scene of guerrilla activity by theKosovo Liberation Army (KLA) prior to the war. It came under the command ofNATO's French sector; 7,000 French troops were stationed in the western sector with their headquarters in Mitrovica. They were reinforced with a contingent of 1,200 troops from theUnited Arab Emirates, and a small number of Danish troops.
Most of the approximately 6,000Roma fled to Serbia, or were relocated to one of two resettlement camps, Cesmin Lug, or Osterode, inNorth Mitrovica. In the north, live some 17,000 Kosovo Serbs, with 2,000 Kosovo Albanians and 1,700Bosniaks inhabiting discrete enclaves on the north bank of theIbar River. Almost all of theSerbs living on the south bank were displaced to North Mitrovica after theKosovo War. In 2011, the city had an estimated total population of 71,601.
Bridge over theIbar, which connects the city's north and south municipalities (2023)
Mitrovica became the focus for ethnic clashes between the two communities, exacerbated by the presence of nationalist extremists on both sides. The bridges linking the two sides of the town were guarded by armed groups determined to prevent incursions by the other side. Because of the tense situation in the town,KFOR troops and theUnited Nations Interim Administration Mission in Kosovo (UNMIK) police were stationed there in large numbers to head off trouble. However, violence and harassment was often directed against members of the "wrong" ethnic community on both sides of the river, necessitating the presence of troops and police checkpoints around individual areas of the city and even in front of individual buildings.
On 17 March 2004, the drowning of three Albanian children in the river prompted major ethnic violence in the town and a Serbian teenager was killed. Demonstrations by thousands of angry Albanians and Serbs mobilised to stop them crossing the river degenerated into rioting and gunfire, leaving at least eight Albanians dead and at least 300 injured. The bloodshed sparked off the worstunrest in Kosovo seen since the end of the 1999 war (in which 16Serbs were killed).The local prison was the scene of an international incident on 18 April 2004 when a Jordanian policeman working as a UN prison guard opened fire on a group of UN police officers leaving a class, killing three.[17][18]
Tensions rose considerably in the city of Mitrovica afterKosovo declared independence on 17 February 2008. Some 150 Kosovo Serb police officers refused to take orders from the ethnic Albanian authorities and were suspended. Serb protesters prevented ethnic Albanian court employees from crossing the bridge over the Ibar River. UN police raided and seized the courthouse on 14 March using tear gas against Serbs and leaving some of them wounded. The explosion of a hand-grenade injured several UN and NATO staff on 17 March; UN forces were later withdrawn from the northern part of Mitrovica.[19]
The Serbian minority initially formed theCommunity Assembly of Kosovo and Metohija in the city, but it has no police force. Serbs refused to accept the jurisdiction of Kosovo courts.[20]
Kosovar leaders have expressed concern over the future of the region, stating their commitment to keep Mitrovica part of Kosovo and prevent crime or war there.[21] With the2013 Brussels Agreement Kosovo Serbs accepted the Pristina-run police force and courts and vote on ballots with republic of Kosovo logos. Elected Serbs swear oaths to Republic of Kosovo.[citation needed]
The city of Mitrovica in 2024 had 72,662 inhabitants, 64,742 of which were living in the southern municipality, while 7,920 inNorth Mitrovica municipality.[1]Kosovo Agency of Statistics, in cooperation with international experts, has evaluated the population in the four Serb-majority municipalities ofNorth Kosovo. This assessment was necessary due to a significant boycott of the census, driven by calls from Serbian political entities. Based on this evaluation, North of Mitrovica in 2024 had 7,920 inhabitants.
According to KAS, in 2011, 58,458 inhabitants were living in the urban area of the city: 46,132 of them in southern municipality, 12,326 in the north.[23]
The Kosovo war and post-war conflicts, the destruction of economy, especially the operating stoppage of industrial sector, as well as other socio-economic factors, have influenced high emigration (both internal and external). After 1948 (32,800 inhabitants) the city had continual high population growth tripling by 1991 to 104,885 inhabitants, but in 2011 only 84,235 inhabitants were living in Mitrovica, a decrease of 19.29% from 1991.
In 2015, a wave of mass migration of approximately 100,000 Kosovo people occurred towardsWestern Europe with the total population of Kosovo declining by almost 5%.[25] During this period, 4,889 people fled south Mitrovica, which resulted in a population decline to 68,400 inhabitants. By 2015 the population of North Mitrovica municipality slightly increased to 12,223 inhabitants. In total, according toKosovo Agency of Statistics estimation, at the end of 2015, 80,623 people were living in the city of Mitrovica.[26]
Young people on the banks of Ibar river in Mitrovica
Mitrovica as a whole is characterized with a large ethnic diversity, dominated byAlbanians and followed bySerbs,Ashkali,Bosniaks,Roma,Turks, and other ethnic groups. In 2024 census conducted byKosovo Agency of Statistics, in both municipalities of Mitrovica live 72,662 inhabitants.
According to 2024 census, in south municipality of Mitrovica, of 64,742 inhabitants Albanians made 96.8%, while other ethnic groups were Ashkali, Roma, Bosniaks Turks, Egyptians, Serbs, Gorani and others. Only 18 Serbs lived in south Mitrovica municipality in 2024.
Based on the evaluation of the population in the four Serb-majority municipalities ofNorth Kosovo, North of Mitrovica in 2024 had 7,920 inhabitants, of which, 5,594 were Serbian, 1,489 were Albanian, 360 Bosniaks, 104 Gorani, 85 Turks, 29 Ashkali, 1 Roma, and 221 others.
In the results of 2011 census, 71,422 people or 99.32% of total population of southern municipality of Mitrovica, were Muslims. Orthodox Christians comprised 11 or 0.02% of total population of municipality, while Catholics comprised 42 or 0.06%.[27]
As North Mitrovica municipality was not covered by population estimation in 2011 byKosovo Agency of Statistics, there are no official data on religion.[citation needed]
Isa Beg's Mosque (locally known as Sand's Mosque) in South Mitrovica
St. Demetrius Serbian Orthodox Church in North Mitrovica
TheTrepça Mines are located in Mitrovica. Once one of Europe's largest mines, its production has since dwindled and most of its operations closed off following the war.[28] Due to Mitrovica's political instability and divisions between the Albanian and Serb communities, the city's unemployment rate is 65%.[29] Publicly owned enterprises and local administration is largely responsible for the functioning of the economy, along with Serbian government assistance and EU donations.[30]
In the southern municipality of Mitrovica there are 31 primary and lower secondary schools, which, since some of the schools function in separate parallels in different areas, operate in 42 educational facilities. In the southern municipality exists also 5 upper secondary schools. Although there is only one kindergarten, it has a large capacity, available for 300 kids.[31] The higher education is also provided through the Public University of Mitrovica "Isa Boletini" and University of Applied Sciences.[32]In North Mitrovica there are 11 primary schools, four secondary schools and one kindergarten.[32]
Regarding the higher education institutions:
• The publicUniversity of Pristina is functional. It hold the name University of Priština after the Serbian faculties of theUniversity of Pristina were relocated fromPristina to North Mitrovica after theKosovo War. However, many institutions refer to it as University of Mitrovica, includingUNMIK andEUA.[33][34] • The public International Business College Mitrovica (IBC-M)[35] with 2 campuses, in both municipalities of Mitrovica.[32] IBC-M was founded in 2010 and became public in July 2023 after the formal ratification of its new status by the Kosovo Parliament. • The private college "Fama" in South-Mitrovica.
TheBajgora Wind Farm is located in the village ofBajgorë in Mitrovica. It is thelargest wind farm in Kosovo consisting of 27 turbines, with a total installed capacity of 102.6 MW. The wind farm produces approximately 320 GWh of electricity annually and it costed around €157 million.[36][37]
Mitrovica is one of the most important cultural centers in Kosovo. The city has the Cultural Center “Rexhep Mitrovica”, City Library “Latif Berisha”,City Museum of Mitrovica, the Professional City Theater, various ensembles, several galleries, and alternative social/cultural spaces. Additionally, it is home to many sports clubs and venues, including the Adem Jashari Olympic Stadium, Riza Lushta Stadium, Fatime Xhaka Stadium, Minatori Sports Hall and Omni Sports Center.[38][39][40]
In the village ofStantërg, the National Museum of Crystals and Minerals is located with over 2000 exhibits of various types of crystals from the mines of the area.[41][42]
The municipality of Mitrovica has seven public libraries with a collection of 152,858 books. The main library of Mitrovica has collections of 111,546, while the branch libraries have 41,312 books. The war and violent Serbian measures during the 1990s have damaged the libraries of this city inBare,Vllahi, Banjë and Ibër with 27,061 books.[38]
Nightview of Mitrovica Bridge, that has become a symbol of divisionWWII Miners Monument
Among the most important historical monuments in the region are the 13th century remains ofSt. Peter's Catholic Church, the 14th century monasteries ofBanjska andSokolica, and the mosque ofMazhiq,Zveçan Fortress andRashan andIsa Boletini Towers Complex, all located outside of the city. In the city several buildings from the past few centuries have remained, such as the former Jadran Hotel building, the house of Xhafer Deva, the Ottoman period city hamam, the house of Koroglu Family, several house buildings of Xhafer Deva, the former Jadran Hotel, the cultural house, and the Miners Monument.[38][43]Ura e Ibrit has become a symbol of division and the city's main landmark.[44]
The strategic position of the region ofMitrovica in the middle of two great rivers Ibar and Sitnica and its mineral wealth inAlbanik (Monte Argentarum), made this location populated since prehistoric period. This region was populated byIllyrians, respectivelyDardan tribe. The first data for thearchaeological sites in the region of Mitrovica, begin with the researches ofSir Arthur John Evans, who was the first to pinpoint the Roman town of theMunicipium Dardanorum.
^abcdefgEjupi, Arsim; Ramadani, Ibrahim; Bytyqi, Valbona; Hajredini, Bahri (2018).Leksikon: vendbanimet e Kosovës: tabloja fizike-hapësinore, demografike dhe funksionale = Lexicon: settlements of Kosova: physical-spatial, demographic and functional overview. Prishtinë: Akademia e Shkencave dhe e Arteve e Kosovës. p. 173,174.ISBN978-9951-615-90-7.
^abcdefMURATI, Sulejman; SHUKRIU, Mustafa (November 1971). "Mitrovica - kasabë orientale".Pesëdhjetë shekuj të Mitrovicës. Gazeta "Zveçani".
^Spomenik, Database."Mitrovica".www.spomenikdatabase.org. Retrieved11 October 2023.
^Berisha, Milot."Archaeological Guide of Kosovo"(PDF).www.mkrs-ks.org. Ministry of Culture, Youth and Sport; Archaeological Institute of Kosovo. Retrieved13 October 2023.
^Schusch, Klaus (2008)."Science and Technology in Kosovo/UNMIK"(PDF). INFORMATION OFFICE OF THE STEERING PLATFORM ON RESEARCH FOR THE WESTERN BALKAN COUNTRIES.Archived from the original on 3 February 2016. Retrieved13 January 2017.
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