Kodungallur Cranganore | |
|---|---|
 Dutch East India Company ships in Kodungallur (1708) | |
  Kodungallur  Kodungallur | |
| Coordinates:10°14′02″N76°11′41″E / 10.233761°N 76.194634°E /10.233761; 76.194634 | |
| Country | India |
| State | Kerala |
| District | Thrissur |
| Government | |
| • Body | Kodungallur Municipality |
| Area | |
• Total | 29.24 km2 (11.29 sq mi) |
| Elevation | 9 m (30 ft) |
| Population (2011)[1] | |
• Total | 70,868 |
| • Density | 2,400/km2 (6,300/sq mi) |
| Languages | |
| • Official | Malayalam, English |
| Time zone | UTC+5:30 (IST) |
| PIN | 680664 |
| Telephone code | 0480 |
| Vehicle registration | KL-47 |
Kodungallur (Malayalam:[koɖuŋːɐlːuːr]; formerly also called asCranganore (anglicised name),Portuguese:Cranganor;Mahodayapuram,Shingly,Vanchi,Muchiri,Muyirikkode, andMuziris) is a historically significant town situated on the banks ofriver Periyar on theMalabar Coast inThrissur district ofKerala, India. It is 36 kilometres (22 mi) north ofKochi (Cochin) byNational Highway 66 and 38 km (24 mi) fromThrissur. Kodungallur, being a port city at the northern end of the Kerala lagoons, was a strategic entry point for the naval fleets to the extensiveKerala backwaters.
As of the 2011 India Census, Kodungallur Municipality had a population of 33,935. It had an average literacy rate of 95.10%.[2] Around 64% of the population follows Hinduism, 32% Islam and 4% Christianity. Schedule Caste (SC) constitutes 7.8% while Schedule Tribe (ST) were 0.1% of total population in Kodungallur.[3]
Kodungallur is the headquarters of the Kodungallur sub-district (tehsil) inThrissur district.[3] Kodungallur Kerala Legislative Assembly constituency is a part ofChalakudi Lok Sabha Constituency.[4] Kodungallur is well connected to other towns in Kerala through the road network.Aluva Railway Station inErnakulam district (28 km [17 mi]) is the major railway station near Kodungallur.
Fort Cranganore (Fortaleza São Tomé), known locally as Kottappuram Fort, was constructed in Kodungallur by Portuguese in 1523. The fort was enlarged in 1565, and passed into the hands of the Dutch in 1663.[5] Thiruvanchikulam Mahadeva Temple, dedicated to the god Siva, is one of the major Siva temples in South India.Siva in theThiruvanchikulam Temple was the patron deity of the Chera Perumals of Kerala and remains the family deity of theCochin Royal Family.Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple is a Hindu temple at Kodungallur dedicated to the goddess Bhadrakali, a form of Mahakali or simply Durga or Aadi Parashakthi worshipped and significantly revered in Kerala. The goddess is known also by the names "Sri Kurumba"" (The Mother of Kodungallur). This temple is the head of 64 Bhadrakali temples in Kerala and is one of the oldest functioning temples in India.
It was here that one of Jesus's disciples,St. Thomas reached during 1st century AD to preach Christianity.
The first case of COVID-19 in India was reported at Kodungallur in a medical student who returned fromWuhan University.
Origin of the modern name 'Kodungallur' has multiple interpretations:
In the medieval period (from c. ninth century CE), Kondungallur was part of the city of Makothai Vanchi (Sanskrit:Mahodaya Pura, Malayalam:Mahodaya Puram). It was the seat of the Kerala branch of theChera clan, the Perumals, for about three hundred years.[6] Kodungallur is well known in ancient times due to trade, and also due to the Baghavathy kshethram, and as well as the seat of Kannagi's resting place in the ksethram, after she burns down the capital of thePandya rulersMadurai, who falsely accuse her husband of stealing the anklet of the royal Queen. This is steeped in the folklore ofKerala andTamil Nadu, which is evident in the temple festivals, and has it roots inDharma, which thePandya ruler failed to follow, and incurs the wrath of the chaste Kannagi. This is also the story of theclassical Tamil epicChilappatikaram, written by royal born, but later turned asceticIlango Adigal, brother of the Chera King Sengottuvan. It was also known as Muchiri Pattanam, Muyirikkode, Mahavanchimana Pattanam, and Thrikulasekarapuram.[citation needed]
Kodungallur was also known as Jangli, Gingaleh, Cyngilin, Shinkali, Chinkli, Jinkali, Shenkala, and Cynkali, which are all derived from the name of the River Changala (or the Chain River, i.e.,Shrinkhala inSanskrit), a tributary of thePeriyar.[7][page needed]
Scholars believe that Muziris, an ancient harbour located on the mouth of Periyar, coincides with modern-day Kodungallur. Central Kerala and western Tamil Nadu in early historic south India was ruled by theChera line of rulers.
The harbour was visited by navigators from all over the world, especially from the Mediterranean world. The Roman Empire had a continuous trading connection with the West Coast of India. Along with spices (black pepper), commodities including pearls,muslin,ivory, diamonds, silk and perfumes were acquired by the sailors from central Kerala.[8]
A traditional belief among theSaint Thomas Christians in Kerala is thatThomas the Apostle landed in or around Kodungallur[9] in the middle of the first century CE and foundedSeven Churches: Kodungallur,Niranam, Nilackal (Chayal),Kokkamangalam,Kottakkavu,Palayoor and Kollam.[10][11][12]
According toKerala Muslim tradition, Kodungallur was home to theoldest mosque in theIndian subcontinent. According to theLegend of Cheraman Perumals, the first Indian mosque was built in 624 AD at Kodungallur with the mandate of the last the ruler (the Cheraman Perumal) ofChera dynasty, who left fromDharmadom toMecca and converted toIslam during the lifetime ofMuhammad (c. 570–632).[13][14][15][16] According toQissat Shakarwati Farmad, theMasjids at Kodungallur,Kollam,Madayi,Barkur,Mangalore,Kasaragod,Kannur,Dharmadam,Panthalayini, andChaliyam, were built during the era ofMalik Dinar, and they are among the oldestMasjids in theIndian subcontinent.[17] It is believed thatMalik Dinar died atThalangara inKasaragod town.[18]
Sometime between the fourth and eighth century, theKnanaya Community is believed to have arrived from the Middle East under the leadership of the Syrian merchantThomas of Cana. The community settled on the southern side of Cranganore and eventually established three churches in the names of St. Thomas, St. Kuriakose, and St. Mary. The Knanaya left their settlement after its destruction during a battle between theKingdom of Cochin andZamorin of Calicut in the 16th century.[19]
According to one tradition, aCochin Jew colony inMalabar Coast, probably established before the sixth century BCE, attracted the Apostle to this region.[20]
The economic and political prestige of the harbour of Kodungallur remained even in medieval South India. Sulaiman, a West Asian visitor to India during this period, recorded the "economic prosperity" of the region. Also, he describes the Chinese traders in the city; they are described as purchasing articles such as spices (pepper andcinnamon),ivory, pearls,cotton fabrics andteak wood.[8]
The port was sacked by theChola rulers in the 11th century CE.[6]After the dissolution of the Chera Perumal rule (early 12th century CE), Kodungallur emerged as a principality, named Padinjattedathu Swaroopam, under the control of the royal family ofKodungallur Kovilakam. The city state was "allied" either to the kingdom of Cochin (Kochi) or to Calicut (Kozhikode).[6]
It is postulated that the harbour at Kodungallur was devastated by natural calamities—a flood or an earthquake—in 1341, and consequently lost its commercial/strategic importance thereafter.[21] Consequently, the trade got diverted to other ports of the Malabar Coast, such as Cochin (Kochi) and Calicut (Kozhikode).[22] It is speculated that the floods split the left branch of the River Periyar into two, just before the town ofAluva. The flood silted the right branch (known as the River Changala) and the natural harbour at the mouth of the river to make it poorly navigable for large vessels.[23]
Portuguese navigators began operating in South India from the early 16th century CE. During this period, Kodungallur was a "tributary state" of the kingdom of Kozhikode (Calicut) ofZamorins (Samoothiris). Since Kodungallur was sandwiched between the kingdom of Kozhikode and the kingdom of Kochi, it was a matter of frequent dispute for both the kings. The chieftain of Kodungallur often switched allegiance from one king to another.[25]
The Portuguese spice trade was challenged by the kings of Kozhikode in the Indian Ocean. The port of Kodungallur had a sizeable Jewish, native Christian and Muslim population at the time.[26][25] Portuguese Company extended their aggression on Calicut to allied coastal city-states, including Kodungallur. The port was almost completely destroyed by the Portuguese (Suarez de Menezes) on 1 September 1504.[27]
Kodungallur, being a port city at the northern end of theVembanad lagoon, was a strategic entry point for Zamorin's army and fleet into theKerala backwaters. Hence, in October 1504 Zamorin dispatched a force to fortify Kodungallur. Reading this movement as a preparation for a renewed attack on Kochi, the Portuguese commander, Lopo Soares, ordered apreemptive strike. A squadron of around ten fighting ships, accompanied by numerous fighting boats from Kochi, headed up to Kodungallur. The heavier ships, unable to make their way into the shallow channels, anchored atPalliport (Pallipuram, on the outer edge ofVypin island), while the smaller frigates progressed to the destination.
Converging on Kodungallur, the Portuguese-Kochi fleet quickly dispersed the Calicut forces on the beach using cannons, and launched their composite army – some 1,000 Portuguese soldiers and 1,000Nair warriors of Kochi – who took on the rest of the enemy force in Kodungallur.[28] The assault troops captured and sacked the city of Kodungallur, and was set on fire by the squads led by Duarte Pacheco Pereira and Diogo Fernandes Correa. Nonetheless, according to some records, Portuguese arsonists spared the Saint Thomas Christian quarters in the city. (At the time the community was in a tenuous position: though thriving in thespice trade and protected by their own militia, the local political sphere was volatile and the Saint Thomas Christians had found themselves under pressure from therajas of Calicut, Cochin and other small kingdoms in the area. Hence the community had sought an alliance with the Portuguese newcomers. Since they were one of the major suppliers of pepper in the region, thePortuguese also found the relationship reciprocating.[29]) This might have helped the ancient Christian community of Kodungallur from extinction during the 1504 assault on the city.[citation needed]
The Calicut fleet, some five ships and 80paraus, that had been dispatched to save the city was intercepted by the idling Portuguese ships nearPalliport and defeated in a naval encounter.[30] In the meantime, theraja of theKingdom of Tanur (Vettattnad), whose kingdom lay to the north, on the road between Calicut and Kodungallur, and who had a spoiled relation with the Zamorin, offered to place himself under Portuguese suzerainty. It is recorded that the military of Calicut, which was led by Zamorin in person, was defeated on their way to Kodungallur by a sizeable Portuguese army with the assistance of the Tanur ruler.
The raid on Cranganore and the defection of the Tanur raja were serious setbacks to the Zamorin of Calicut, pushing the frontline north and effectively placing theVembanad lagoon out of the Zamorin's reach. The battle set the scene for Portuguese to expand their colonial authority over a significant area of the Malabar coast. By 1510, their fluid power in the Malabar coast solidified into a perceptible territorial entity.[25]
In 1662, theDutch entered the competition, sacked the Portuguese in a fortnightly war, with the help of Zamorin, and occupied Kodungallur.[31] The Dutch took the control of Kodungallur fort in 1663 and it eventually protected southern Kerala, especiallyTravancore, from theMysorean invasion in 1776. In 1786, Mysorean troops again marched to northern Kerala, but failed to progress ahead of Kodungallur. On 31 July 1789, the Dutch handed over their establishments in Kodungallur and Azhikode to the Kingdom of Travancore for 300,000 Surat silver rupees.[32]
The Muziris Heritage Project was launched by the Government of Kerala's Department of Cultural Affairs in 2006 to "scientifically retrieve and preserve the historical heritage of the region, extending from North Paravur to Kodungallur". The Kerala Council for Historical Research (KCHR), identified as the nodal agency for the Muziris Heritage Project, provides academic guidance and undertakes archaeological and historical research in the region.[33]
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