Kodiak (Alutiiq:Sun'aqRussian:Кадьяк) is the main city and one of seven communities onKodiak Island inKodiak Island Borough,Alaska. All commercial transportation between the island's communities and the outside world goes through this city via ferryboat or airline. As of the2020 census, the population of the city was 5,581, down from 6,130 in 2010.[5] It is thetenth-largest city inAlaska.
Inhabited byAlutiiq natives for over 7,000 years, Kodiak was settled in 1792 by subjects of theRussian crown. Originally namedPaul's Harbor, it was the capital ofRussian Alaska. Russian harvesting of the area'ssea otter pelts led to the near extinction of the animal in the following century and led to wars with and enslavement of the natives for over 150 years. The city has experienced two natural disasters in the 20th century: avolcanic ashfall from the1912 eruption of Novarupta and atsunami from the1964 Alaska earthquake.
After theAlaska Purchase by the United States in 1867, Kodiak became acommercial fishing center which continues to be the mainstay of its economy. A lesser economic influence includes tourism, mainly by those seeking outdoor adventure trips.Salmon,halibut, the uniqueKodiak bear,elk,Sitka deer (black tail), andmountain goats attract hunting tourists as well as fishermen to the Kodiak Archipelago. TheAlaska Department of Fish and Game maintains an office in the city and a website to help hunters and fishermen obtain the proper permits and learn about the laws specific to the Kodiak area.
The city has four public elementary schools, a middle and high school, as well asa branch of theUniversity of Alaska. Anantenna farm at the summit of Pillar Mountain above the city historically provided communication with the outside world before fiber optic cable was run. Transportation to and from the island is provided by ferry service on theAlaska Marine Highway as well as local commercial airlines.
The Russian sloop of warNeva visitsKodiak, Alaska in 1805
The first Europeans to sight Kodiak Island were the explorersVitus Bering andAleksei Chirikov, during the 1741 Second Kamchatka Expedition.[9][10] In the early 1750s the Russian fur trading merchant and explorerStepan Glotov met a Kodiak Islander in the Aleutian Islands, who told him about the island. On his next voyage Glotov sailed to Kodiak Island, arriving in 1763.[11] The Russians called the islandKad’yak (Кадьяк), after the Alutiiq wordqikertaq.[12] Several other Russians made fur hunting voyages to Kodiak Island in the 1770s.[13] In 1778 the British captainJames Cook explored the area and wrote of "Kodiak" in his journals.[14] In 1779 the Spanish explorersArteaga y Bazán andBodega y Quadra reachedAfognak in theKodiak Archipelago.[15]
In 1792, the RussianShelikhov-Golikov Company chief managerAlexander Baranov moved the post atThree Saints Bay (established in 1784) to a new site in St. Paul's Harbor (Свято-Павловской гавани,Svyato-Pavlovskoy Gavani). This developed as the nucleus of modern Kodiak.[16]: 7 Baranov considered Three Saints Bay a poor location because it was too indefensible. The relocated settlement was first namedPavlovskaya Gavan (Павловская гавань – Paul's Harbor).[17][18]
A warehouse was built in what became one of the key posts of the Shelikhov-Golikov Company, a precursor of theRussian-American Company and a center for harvesting the area's vast population ofsea otters for their prized pelts. The warehouse still stands as the Baranov Museum. Because the First Native cultures revered this animal and would never harm it, the Russians had wars with and enslaved theAleuts during this era.
Eastern Orthodox missionaries settled on the island by the end of the 18th century, continuing European settlement of the island. They held the liturgy in native Tlingit from 1800.
The capital ofRussian America was moved to Novoarkhangelsk (modern-daySitka) in 1804. The Russian-American Company was established in 1799 as a joint-stock company by decree ofEmperor Paul to continue the harvest of sea otter and other fur-bearing animals and establish permanent settlements. By the mid-19th century, the sea otter was almost extinct and 85% of the First Native population had disappeared from exposure to European diseases.
When Russiasold Alaska to the United States in 1867, Kodiak developed as a center for commercial fishing, and canneries dotted the island in the early 20th century until global farm-raised salmon eliminated these businesses. New processing centers emerged and the industry continues to evolve.
Kodiak was severely impacted by the1912 eruption of Novarupta.[19] Though situated 160 miles (260 km) southeast of the eruption center, the town was covered with 1 foot (30 cm) of ash over a short period of time.[19] Townspeople sheltered in theU.S. Revenue Cutter Manning which was docked nearby.[19][20]
As Kodiak was incorporated in 1941, the U.S. feared attack from Japanese duringWorld War II, and turned the town into a fortress. Roads, the airport,Fort Abercrombie, and gun fortifications improved the island's infrastructure. When Alaska became a state in 1959, government assistance in housing, transportation, and education added additional benefits.[21]
Street of Kodiak in 1965
In March 1964, a tectonictsunami struck the city during the1964 Alaska earthquake with 30-foot (9.1 m) waves that killed 15 people and caused $11 million in damage. Some areas near Kodiak were permanently raised by 30 feet (9.1 m). It wiped out the neighboring Native villages ofOld Harbor and Kaguyak. TheStandard Oil Company, the Alaskan King Crab Company, and much of the fishing fleet were also destroyed.[22]
Kodiak, sometime shortly after 1900
Panorama of Kodiak, 1908
Alaska Commercial Company buildings in Kodiak, June 1908
Alaska Commercial Company Superintendent's residence, 1908
Kodiak is located on the eastern shore ofKodiak Island. According to theUnited States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of 4.9 square miles (12.6 km2), divided into 3.5 sq mi (9.0 km2) of land and 1.4 sq mi (3.6 km2) (28.66%) of water.
Kodiak has ahumid continental climate (Dfb) with cold winters and mild summers. Precipitation is heavy year-round, though markedly less in the summer months, when theAleutian Low is at its weakest. There is a low degree ofdiurnal temperature variation throughout the year.
Climate data forKodiak Airport, Alaska (1991–2020 normals,[a] extremes 1913–present[b])
^Mean monthly maxima and minima (i.e. the highest and lowest temperature readings during an entire month or year) calculated based on data at said location from 1991 to 2020.
^Records for Kodiak have been kept at the Kodiak Airport since January 1931 and at an undisclosed location from September 1913 to December 1930. For more information, seeThreadEx
Kodiak first appeared on the 1880 U.S. Census as the village of Saint Paul (not to be confused with the city ofSt. Paul located in thePribilof Islands). It reported a population of 288, of which 253 wereAlaskan Creoles (a mixture of Russian and Native Alaskans), 20 Whites and 15 Aleuts. In 1890, it would report as "Kadiak" (the then-spelling). In 1900, it returned as "Kadiak Settlement." From 1910 onwards, it reported as Kodiak, and would formally incorporate in 1940.
As of thecensus of 2000, there were 6,334 people, 1,996 households, and 1,361 families residing in the city. The population density was 706.8 people/km2 (1,831 people/sq mi). There were 2,255 housing units at an average density of 251.6 persons per square kilometre (652 persons/sq mi). The racial makeup of the city was 46.4% White, 0.7%African American, 10.5%Native American, 31.7%Asian, 0.9% Pacific Islander, 4.4% from other races, and 5.4% from two or more races. 8.5% of the population wereHispanic orLatino of any race. At the 2020 Census, the population had declined to 5,581.
There were 1,996 households, out of which 40.2% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 52.1% were married couples living together, 10.3% had a woman whose husband does not live with her, and 31.8% were non-families. 24.2% of all households were made up of individuals, and 5.4% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 3.10 and the average family size was 3.64.
In the city, the population was spread out, with 29.1% under the age of 18, 8.7% from 18 to 24, 32.2% from 25 to 44, 23.1% from 45 to 64, and 6.8% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 34 years. For every 100 females, there were 114.3 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 120.6 males.
The median income for a household in the city was $55,142, and the median income for a family was $60,484. Males had a median income of $37,074 versus $30,049 for females. The per capita income for the city was $21,522. 7.4% of the population and 3.7% of families were below the poverty line. Out of the total people living in poverty, 8.4% were under the age of 18 and 0.0% were 65 or older.
Kodiak is an important environmental asset, which affects the fishing industry, particularly salmon fishing. Its wild game is coveted by hunters worldwide for the Kodiak bear and other game animals; there are strict laws governing fishing and hunting activities as well as hiking near spawning streams. Both the department and the city maintain websites and publish brochures in order to help communicate these strictly enforced laws. All of the city's hotels and businesses have these materials in prominent areas for guests, and licenses can be purchased in the city's main sporting goods store and online.
The city of Kodiak is home to a number of annual events that draw locals and people from off-island. The most well-known of these is Kodiak Crab Festival. Organized by the Kodiak Chamber of Commerce, the event takes place overMemorial Day weekend. It includes a county fair-style main event, with carnival rides, food and game booths, and group activities. In addition, a number of events are organized over the three-day weekend that include a kayak race, amarathon, anultra-marathon, a 9.2-mile (14.8 km) mountain run called the Pillar Mountain Run and others.
The official Pardoning of the Crab was added to The Kodiak Crab Fest in 2019. A crab is given a crab themed name, and then saved from the crab pot by a special guest, and then goes to live at the Kodiak Fisheries Research Center Aquarium.
2019: Sheldon, pardoned by US Senator Dan Sullivan (R-AK).[30] 2020: Unknown. 2021: Lenny Crabitz, pardoned by Kodiak City Manager Mike Tvenge.[31]
TheKodiak Island Borough School District operates three elementary schools, one middle school and one high school (Kodiak High School) serving the town of Kodiak and the immediate area surrounding the city of Kodiak. A further 6 schools serve rural sites in the district and are operated as k-12 schools.[32]
Kodiak Airport attracts both local and regional airlines, air taxis, and charterfloatplanes and helicopters which provide transportation to residents and tourists traveling on and off the island. TheAlaska Marine Highway provides further transportation via two ferries,MVTustumena andMVKennicott. These ships can carry 211 and 748 passengers, respectively, and serve routes between Kodiak,Homer, andWhittier, although the ferry system no longer takes passengers toSeward. Floatplane andbush plane companies regularly take tourists to remote areas and wilderness lodges both on the various islands of the Kodiak Archipelago and theKatmai coast for bear viewing, hunting, and hikes. The city business community also has a fleet of privately owned taxis as well as kayaks, mountain bikes, and all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) for rent.
Kodiak has robust primary care, led by Kodiak Area Native Association, a Tribal Health Organization with HRSA support that sees Native and Non-Native persons around the island, and Kodiak Community Health Center with smaller primary care practices in Kodiak. Specialty medical services are intermittently available at Kodiak Area Native Association and at Providence Kodiak Island Medical Center. Hospital and emergency care are provided at Providence Kodiak Island Medical Center, the only hospital on Kodiak Island. Individuals located in the smaller surrounding communities are cared for in small village clinics and, when critically ill, may be airlifted into Kodiak via helicopter or air ambulance due to remoteness and lack of roads.
Most electrical energy for the city is provided from theTerror Lake Hydroelectric Generating Station owned by the Kodiak Electrical Association. Substantial amounts of energy are also provided bywind turbines and by diesel generators. There are six wind turbines that supply up to 1.5 MW each and have a blade length of 38.5 meters and overall height of 118.5 meters.
In 2012, rapperPitbull was involved in an advertising campaign withWalmart, in which the Walmart store that received the most "likes" onFacebook from June 18 to July 15, 2012, would have Pitbull visit and put on a show there. An orchestrated internet campaign urged people to vote for Kodiak, both as a reference to theKodak company referenced in the intro to the 2011 Pitbull song "Give Me Everything" and the humor value in performing a concert at such a small venue in a remote secluded area resulting in a sizable lead for that store.[33] Walmart eventually confirmed that Kodiak had won.[34] Pitbull visited on July 30, where he received aKey to the City from mayor Branson and then made an appearance before a crowd of hundreds at the Coast Guard base.[35]
Czech carmakerŠkoda Auto named their newSUV theŠkoda Kodiaq, after the Alaskan brown bear, and in tribute Kodiak was renamedKodiaq for one day (May 6, 2016).[37] In a spelling change also intended to honor the indigenousAlutiiq,[37] the city was renamed with a number of signs changed across town,[37] including the port facilities and city limits. The letter Q is a common ending for nouns in theAlutiiq language.[38]
The filmThe Guardian (2006) is partially set in Kodiak, but was not filmed there.[39]
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