Kardzhali is located in the low eastern part ofRhodope Mountains, on both banks of the riverArda between theKardzhali Reservoir to the west and theStuden Kladenets Reservoir to the east. The town is 260 km (162 mi) southeast ofSofia. It has a crossroad position fromThrace to theAegean Sea—part of European transportation route 9, via theMakaza mountain pass.
The area where the town of Kardzhali is now located has been inhabited since theNeolithic.[5] Manyartifacts, comprising ceramics and primitive tools, have been found during the archaeological excavations. Most of them are now exhibited in the local historical museum.
LaterThracian tribes settled in the area and developed a highly advanced civilization. They built many sanctuaries dedicated to the gods of thesun and theearth. Near the village of Nenkovo (northwest of Kardzhali), an artificial cave was found in 2001. It has the form of a woman'swomb and is called theUtroba Cave. Exactly at noon, when the sun is highest in the sky, a ray of light comes in through a stone slit forming a falitic shade in the cave. According to the Thracian beliefs, this is the conception of the new sun god. This cave is considered a complexastronomic facility (compared toStonehenge in Great Britain) as the ray of light enters the cave on a single day of the year.[6]
There are many stone castles and palaces that the Thracians built in the region, including Perperek,Ustra, andVishegrad. The most magnificent isPerperikon, where a Thracian king resided. The place has become increasingly popular since the recent archaeological works rendered wealth of artifacts.
During theByzantine period, Kardzhali was the center of a Christian eparchy: Achridos.[citation needed] During the reign of theBulgarian Empire, Kardzhali was known asZherkovo[citation needed] a name that was used by the Bulgarians until the 17th century. TheMonastery of John the Precursor (Bulgarian: Йоан Продром or Йоан Предтеча) was built in the 6th-8th centuries and is now a monument of medieval architecture. Apart from the fortress of Vishegrad on the right bank of the Arda, the eastern approaches of the town were protected by the medieval castle ofMonyak on the left bank of the river.
A couple of other monasteries were built during this era, with some of them remaining until the early 19th century. The area was of strategic importance for the Bulgarian Empire during the Middle Ages and the remains of numerous Medieval fortress scattered on the surrounding hills can still be seen.
The town developed largely due to its position on the trade routes during the period of Ottoman rule. However, it remained a small town. During the 18th century, Turkishbrigands used this remote town as a hideaway and supply point, and the town was later named after their leader Kırca Ali. The best known of these units was led byPazvantoğlu Osman Pasha, who ruled most of the northeastern Ottoman lands and the Danube estuary until his death in 1807.
Round dance
Kardzhali and its neighborhood became part of the autonomous province ofEastern Rumelia under the stipulations of the Berlin Congress of 1878, but, after the reunification of thePrincipality of Bulgaria andEastern Rumelia in 1885, it was ceded back to the Ottoman Empire as a township ofGümülcine sanjak inEdirne vilayet.Ottoman rule ended during theFirst Balkan War when the town and the surrounding area were liberated by the Bulgarian GeneralVasil Delov on 21 October 1912. The day has been celebrated with concerts and commemorative events as a municipal holiday since 1937. Kardzhali was declared the center of Kardzhali Province, when it was created from the most southern part ofStara Zagora Province[7] in 1949.
According to the 2011 census, Kardzhali has a population of 43,880, while the Kardzhali municipality (which in addition to the city also includes 117 villages) has a population of 67,846.[8]
During Ottoman rule before 1912 most of the population of the city were Muslims –Turks,Pomaks, andMuslim Roma. After theSecond Balkan War and theFirst World War,Bulgarian Christian refugees fromEastern andWestern Thrace settled in Kardzhali. Some Turks immediately moved to the remains of the Ottoman Empire in 1913 in response to the Bulgarians moving to their lands. Further emigration to Turkey continued between 1913 and 1989. This included two emigration waves in the 1930s and 1950s as a result of treaties between Bulgaria and Turkey and most notably in 1989 in response to the state sponsoredRevival Process which saw the forcedBulgarisation of ethnic Turks.
After 1990 the deteriorating economic conditions in Bulgaria (and especially the region) during the post-communist transition led to significant emigration by both Bulgarians and Turks, with the Bulgarians moving to other parts of the country or abroad and with the Turks moving mainly to Turkey.
Kardzhali Old Clock Tower
According to the last census in 2011 Kardzhali Province is the Bulgarian province with the highest relative proportion of ethnicTurks, though Kardzhali municipality and the city itself have a lower proportion of ethnic Turks than the rest of the province. According to the optional question on ethnic identification, the city itself has a Bulgarian majority (manyBulgarians in Kardzhali are Muslims, also known asPomaks[citation needed]) of 61%, while Turks are 34.9% and others and undeclared are 4.1%. The Kardzhali municipality has a Turkish majority of 55.5%, while Bulgarians are 40.5% and others and undeclared are 4%.[11] In 2001, the population of Kardzhali municipality consisted of 53% Turks, 42% Bulgarians and others and undeclared.[12] The municipal government today is primarily in the hands of the Turkish-dominatedMovement for Rights and Freedoms.
In December 1989 and January 1990 there were a series of demonstrations in Kardzhali against the liberalization of anti-Turkish laws. A particular issue of contention was whether Turkish should be taught in state schools as an elective. In response Turkish students boycotted schools until the ban on using their mother tongue was discontinued.
Formerly Kardzhali was a tobacco processing center, but for economic reasons all of the communist era industrial plants are no longer operative. The large deposits of lead and zinc ore in the area once made the town an attractive location for the metallurgy and machine building industry. However, in 2016 the no-longer-operative large Lead and Zinc Complex near the city met its final end with its two stacks being torn down.
Nowadays retail trade and services constitute the largest share of local production. The abundance of cultural and natural sights in the area also make it a promising area for tourism.
In 2007 in the city were opened hypermarkets of the chains Technomarket, LIDL, Billa and Technopolis and the construction of the city's new marketplace was complete. In 2014 a hypermarket of the chain Kaufland opened too. However the local economy has stalled.
The percentage of the labour force working inagriculture increased from 41% to 47% in just 7 years (the period between 2010 and 2017). Kardzhali has the second highest percentage of people working in agriculture, afterSilistra Province.
The Thracian town of Perperikon is located near the city on a rock high above the valley. It is interesting for the fact that it is cut in the rock.
The monastery from 11th century is located in the Vesselchane Quarter of the town. It was renovated in 2000 and a newbell tower was built.[13]
Kardzhali Theatre
The town clock is unique in Bulgaria because it sounds Bulgarian revolutionary songs every hour.
The Kardzhali Museum of History has one of the most extensive exhibitions in Southern Bulgaria. This includes pre-historic tools and ceramics from the Thracian cities ofPerperikon andTatul, Christian icons and ethnographic exhibits. It is located in the old konak (the Turkish town-hall built around 1870) with its period exterior architecture.
There are many open-air restaurants, offering a variety of drinks and cocktails in summer time on the dam. It is a popular place among fans ofwater sports and fishing.
The town has two drama theaters — "Dimitar Dimov" and "Kadrie Lyatifova", a puppet theater and a museum of historymedrese, as well as an art gallery.
5 km (3 mi) from Kardzhali, near the village of Zimzelen, is a smallbadlands, where a series of white pillars have eroded out of the volcanictuff which are referred to as the "Kardzhali Pyramids". Ensembles have been given names based on resemblances. One is known as "The Mushrooms" and another as the "Stone Wedding".[14]
The town is situated on the north and south banks of riverArda and it is bordered to the west byKardzhali Dam, and byStuden Kladenets Dam to the east. At maximum capacity, the waters of the Studen Kladenets Dam extend to the foot of the old Veselchane bridge. The concrete wall of the Kurdzhali Dam is located about two kilometers (1.2 miles) upstream from that bridge. The banks of the river running through the town have been adjusted by the recently completed Water Mirror reservoir, creating an environment for water sports and recreational activities.[16]
In the 1970s, the reservoir of the Kurdzhali Dam was artificially seeded withsheatfish. Today, specimens that reach 100 kg (220 lb) can be found. In the last years 45,000carp were introduced into the dam as well. Most recently it was artificially seeded withEuropean perch. The fish were taken from the Ovčarica (Ovcharitsa) dam.