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Kafana is a distinct type of localbistro (ortavern), common in many of the countries inSoutheast Europe, which primarily servesalcoholic beverages andcoffee, and often also light snacks (meze) and other food. Many kafanas feature live music performances.
The concept of a social gathering place for men to drink alcoholic beverages and coffee originated in theOttoman Empire and spread to Southeast Europe during Ottoman rule, further evolving into the contemporary kafana.
This distinct type of establishment is known by several slightly differing names depending on country and language:
The word itself, irrespective of regional differences, is derived from theTurkishkahvehane 'coffeehouse', which is in turn derived from thePersian termqahveh-khaneh (a compound of theArabicqahve 'coffee' and Persiankhane 'house').[citation needed]
InMacedonia,kafeana is sometimes confused with the more traditionalmeana, while the variantkafana (adopted from commercialSerbian folk-songs and popularized by domestic artists) may be used for the establishment described in this article; however, both terms are used interchangeably by some.
TheSloveniankavarna shares neither its etymology nor its functionality with the Ottoman kahvehane, deriving instead from the coffeehouses ofVienna and thus not offering its guests alcoholic beverages or entertainment in the form of folk music. The term 'kavarna' is of Slovenian origin, like related Slovene terms for shopping or drinking venues such as 'pekarna' (bakery) and 'gostilna' (tavern).
Nowadays in Serbia, the termkafana is similarly used to describe any informal eatery serving traditional cuisine, as well as some other classical kafana dishes likekarađorđeva.
The first coffeehouses in the area appeared during theOttoman expansion in the 16th century, popping up inBelgrade,Buda,Sarajevo and other cities under Ottoman control. Further west, inZagreb, the first coffee-serving establishments were recorded in 1636. In thesekavotočja orKaffeebuden, coffee and snacks were sold and consumed in a vehicle similar to acircus wagon. The first known modern-daykavana in Zagreb was opened in 1749, and the institution was commonplace in Zagreb and many other Croatian cities by the end of the 18th century.[1] By the 19th century, a distinction arose between thekavane, which were high-society establishments, and the working-classkavotočja.[2]
During the 18th and early 19th century, running a kafana was a family business, a craft, passed on from generation to generation.
As theBalkan cities grew in size and became more urbanized, kafana also shifted its focus a bit. Some started serving food and offering other enticements to potential customers since owners now had to compete with other similar establishments around the city. Most bigger towns and cities in this period had aGradska kafana (City kafana) located in or around main square where the most affluent and important individuals of that city would come to see and be seen. Prices in this particular kafana would usually be higher compared to others around the city that didn't enjoy the privilege of such an exclusive location.
The concept of live music was introduced in the early 20th century by kafana owners looking to offer different kinds of entertainment to their guests. Naturally, in the absence ofmass media these bands strictly had a local character and would only playfolk music that was popular within a particular region where the city lies.
As the 20th century rolled on, Balkan cities saw waves upon waves of rural population coming in, especially afterWorld War II, and kafane diversified accordingly. Some continued to uphold a higher standard of service, while others began to cater to newly arrived rural population that mostly found employment in factories and on construction sites.
This is when the termkafana slowly began to be associated with something undesirable and suitable only for lower classes of society. By the 1980s, termkafana became almost an insult and most owners would steer clear of calling their places by that name, preferring westernized terms likerestaurant,cafe,bistro,coffee bar, and so on, instead. On the other hand, termsbirtija,bircuz andkrčma are also used to denote, usually rural or suburban, filthy kafane.
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During the 1970s and 1980s the termkafana became synonymous in theSFR Yugoslavia with decay, sloth, pain, backwardness and sorrow. Pop culture played a significant part in this transformation. With the expansion of radio and television, popular folk singers began to emerge, and they often used kafana themes in their songs. Since the connection between commercial folk and rural regressiveness was already well established, kafana, too, acquired a negative reputation by extension.
During the 1960s, in contrast to the state-sponsoredPartisan films, Yugoslav movies of theBlack Wave movement started depicting contemporary individuals from the margins of society. Run-down kafane would feature prominently in such stories. Socially relevant films likeI Even Met Happy Gypsies,When Father Was Away on Business,Život je lep,Do You Remember Dolly Bell?,Specijalno vaspitanje,Kuduz, etc. all had memorable, dramatic scenes that take place in dilapidated rural or suburban kafana. Soon, a distinct cinematic stereotype appeared.
InMate Bulić's albumGori borovina, there is a song "Ej, kavano", which describes the common stereotype of the kafana.
Kafana is stereotyped as a place where sad lovers cure their sorrows in alcohol and music,gamblers squander entire fortunes, husbands run away from mean wives while shady businessmen, corrupt local politicians and petty criminals do business. As in many other societies, frequenting kafane is seen as a mainly male activity, and "honest" women dare only visit finer ones, usually in the company of men.
As mentioned, it is a very frequent motif of late-20th century commercial folk songs, perhaps the most famous being "I tebe sam sit kafano" (I'm Already Sick of You, Kafana) byHaris Džinović, "Kafana je moja sudbina" (Kafana is My Destiny) byToma Zdravković, and the ubiquitous "Čaše lomim" (I'm Breaking Glasses), originally by Nezir Eminovski.
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In 2016,Albania surpassed Spain by becoming the country with the most coffee houses per capita in the world.[3] In fact, there are 654 coffee houses per 100,000 inhabitants in Albania, a country with only 2.5 million inhabitants. This is due to coffee houses closing down in Spain due to the economic crisis, and the fact that as many cafes open as they close in Albania. In addition, the fact that it was one of the easiest ways to make a living after the fall of communism in Albania, together with the country's Ottoman legacy further reinforce the strong dominance of coffee culture in Albania.
Probably the purest form of kafana can be found inBosnia where no food is served (differentiating kafana fromćevabdžinica,aščinica andburegdžinica), staying true to the originalTurkish coffee and alcohol concept.
In Bosnian cities with largeMuslim populations, one can still find certain old kafane that probably didn't look much different back when theOttomans ruled Bosnia. They are now mostly frequented by local elders as well as the occasional tourist, and their numbers are dwindling.
Most of the old centerpieceGradske Kafane have been visually modernized and had their names changed in the process to something snappy and western-sounding. Most other establishments that offer similar fare target a younger crowd and prefer not to use the termkafana. However, stereotypical kafanas hold some popularity amongst high-schoolers and students, as well as working-class men, who frequent them as places to binge drink due to their affordable prices.
InCroatia, the term for kafana iskavana (as coffee is spelledkava inCroatian) and they differ widely between continental Croatia and theDalmatian coast.Kafić (pl.kafići) is a more general term encompassing all establishments serving coffee and alcohol drinks only, whilekavana is the name for distinctly styled bistros described in this article.
Currently, there are 5,206 kafeani in the country. According to the State Statistical Office, there are 989 kafeani (19% of the total number) in the capitalSkopje, 413 inTetovo, 257 inBitola, 244 inGostivar, 206 inKumanovo, 205 inStruga, 188 inOhrid and 161 inStrumica.[4]
City of Belgrade features many establishments equipped with extensive kitchens serving elaboratemenus that are officially called restaurants yet most patrons refer to them askafane.
According to some, the first kafana in Belgrade opened sometime after 1738, when the Ottomans recaptured the city from the Austrians. Its name was Crni orao (Black Eagle) and it was located inDorćol neighbourhood, at the intersection of today's Kralja Petra and Dušanova streets. Its patrons were only served Turkish black coffee poured from silveribrik into afildžan as well asnargile.[5]
The concept of eating in Serbian kafane was introduced in the 19th century when the menu consisted mostly of simply snacks, such asćevapčići. The menus soon expanded as food became large part of the appeal of Belgrade kafane that originated in the 19th and early 20th century like the famous″?″ (transl. Question Mark),Lipov lad (transl. The Linden Tree's Shade, opened in 1928), andTri lista duvana (transl. Three Tobacco Leaves), as well asSkadarlijabohemian spotsTri šešira (transl. Three Hats),Dva bela goluba (transl. Two White Doves),Šešir moj (transl. Hat of Mine),Dva jelena (transl. Two Deer),Zlatni bokal (transl. The Golden Pitcher), andIma dana (transl. There are Days). Another kafana that gained notoriety during the early 20th century wasZlatna moruna (transl. The Golden Beluga) at theZeleni Venac neighbourhood whereYoung Bosnia conspirators frequently gathered while plotting the June 1914assassination of Austro-Hungarian archdukeFranz Ferdinand. Certain kafane had their names preserved through the structures that succeeded them in the same location;Palace Albanija, built in 1940 in central Belgrade got its name from the kafana that used to be there from 1860 until 1936.
PostWorld War II period gave a rise in popularity to kafane likeŠumatovac,Pod lipom (transl. Under the Linden Tree), andGrmeč in Makedonska Street (nicknamed the 'Bermuda triangle'),[6] Manjež, as well as later establishments likeMadera,Kod Ive (transl. Ivo's), andKlub književnika (transl. The Writers' Club).
Even the traditionally upscale restaurant joints likeRuski car (transl. Russian Tsar) andGrčka Kraljica (transl. Greek Queen) weren't above being referred to as kafana.
Things have somewhat changed, however, since approximately the 1970s with the influx of Westernpop andmedia cultures taking root. Most of the younger Serbian crowd started to associate the termkafana with something archaic andpassé so the owners of places that cater to them began avoiding it altogether. Terms such as "kafić", initially and later "kafe" began to be used more frequently. An example would beZlatni papagaj (transl. Golden Parrot) in Belgrade, akafić that opened in September 1979 and almost immediately became the main gathering point for the city's well-dressed youngsters from affluent families.[7] Similarly in the mid-1980s, kafić calledNana inSenjak neighbourhood became a favourite tough guy and mobster hangout.
The trend of moving away from the termkafana continued into the 1990s, and early 2000s. Withgentrification taking root in many parts of central Belgrade, these new establishments mostly stay away from traditionalism. Good examples of this would be the numerous watering holes that have sprung up over the last 15 years in Strahinjića Bana Street, such asVeprov dah,Ipanema,Kandahar, andDorian Gray, or various new restaurants in downtown Belgrade — none of these places are referred to askafane, either by their owners or by their patrons.
