This article is about the cooking process. For the technique of climbing a rope, seeAscender (climbing). For the fishing technique, seeJug fishing. For the act of following and forcibly stealing money from someone leaving a bank, seerobbery.
Jugging is the process ofstewing whole animals, mainlygame or fish, for an extended period in a tightly covered container such as acasserole or an earthenware jug.In France a similar stew of a game animal (historically thickened with the animal's blood) is known as acivet.[1][2][3]
Jugged hare (a similar stew is known ascivet de lièvre in France), a common dish involving jugging, is a wholehare, cut into pieces, marinated and cooked with red wine andjuniper berries in a tall jug that stands in a pan of water. It is traditionally served with the hare's blood, or the blood is added at the end of the cooking process, andport wine.[4][5][6][7]
In 1843John Doyle attributed "First catch your hare" to Mrs Glasse
Jugged hare is described in the influential 18th-century cookbookThe Art of Cookery, byHannah Glasse.[8] Beginning in the nineteenth century, Glasse has been widely credited with having started the recipe with the words "First, catch your hare".[5] This attribution is apocryphal. Her actual directions are, "Take your Hare when it is cas'd, and make a pudding ..." To 'case' means to take off the skin [not "to catch"]. Both theOxford English Dictionary andThe Dictionary of National Biography discuss the attribution.[9]
However, having a freshly caught, or shot, hare enables one to obtain its blood. A freshly killed hare is prepared for jugging by removing itsentrails and then hanging it in alarder by its hind legs, which causes the blood to accumulate in the chest cavity. One method of preserving the blood after draining it from the hare (since the hare itself is usually hung for a week or more) is to mix it with red wine vinegar in order to prevent itcoagulating, and then to store it in a freezer.[10][11]
Many other British cookbooks from before the middle of the 20th century have recipes for jugged hare. Merle and Reitch[12] have this to say about jugged hare, for example:
The best part of the hare, when roasted, is theloin and the thick part of the hind leg; the other parts are only fit for stewing, hashing, or jugging. It is usual to roast a hare first, and to stew or jug the portion which is not eaten the first day. ...
To Jug A Hare. This mode of cooking a hare is very desirable when there is any doubt as to its age, as an old hare, which would be otherwise uneatable, may be made into an agreeable dish.
In 2006, a survey of 2,021 people for the television channelUKTV Food found that only 1.6% of the people aged under 25 recognized jugged hare by name. 7 out of 10 of those people stated that they would refuse to eat jugged hare if it were served at the house of a friend or a relative.[13][14]
Another jugged dish, also traditional in theUnited Kingdom, isjugged kippers, which iskippers (with the heads and tails removed) in a covered jug, cooked in boiling water. Recipe books recommend jugging kippers as one way of avoiding the strong smell that kippers have.[17][18]
"Jugged Hare".Mrs Beetons Poultry and Game Revisited. The Delineator.Mrs Beeton's recipe for Jugged Hare
William Kitchiner (1845). "Jugged Hare".The Cook's Oracle: Containing Receipts for Plain Cookery, on the Most Economical Plan for Private Families. R. Cadell. p. 311. Another detailed recipe, with alternatives
Frederick Bishop (1852). "Jugged Hare".The Illustrated London Cookery Book: Containing Upwards of Fifteen Hundred First-rate Receipts. London. p. 147.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) Bishop's recipe includes a note that "in some parts of the country" the hare is cooked in ale with bacon.
Mary Somerville (1862). "Jugged Pigeons".Cookery and domestic economy: containing upwards of one thousand carefully tested recipes, expressed in simple terms suitable for every-day life (5th ed.). Glasgow: George Watson. pp. 59–60. Two recipes for juggingpigeons
