Joe Tasker | |
|---|---|
 OnChangabang, 1976 | |
| Born | (1948-05-12)12 May 1948 |
| Died | 17 May 1982(1982-05-17) (aged 34) The North-East Ridge,Mount Everest,Tibet |
| Occupation | Mountaineer |
Joe Tasker (12 May 1948 – 17 May 1982) was a Britishclimber, active during the late 1970s and early 1980s. He died while climbingMount Everest.
Born into aRoman Catholic family in 1948, Tasker was the second of ten children and spent his early childhood inPort Clarence, Middlesbrough. The family later moved toBillingham[1][2] and Joe attendedUshaw Seminary,County Durham between the ages of 13 and 20, in training to become a Catholic priest. Fascinated byThe Climb Up to Hell byJack Olsen, a book recounting harrowing tales of tragic attempts to climb theNorth Face of theEiger, he started climbing in a nearby quarry in 1966.[3]
After leaving the seminary he first worked as adustman before studyingsociology atManchester University, where he was an enthusiastic participant in the Student Union's gypsy liaison and soup-run groups. He improved his climbing skills during this time, graduating from rock climbing in Britain to harder routes in theAlps.[2]
Tasker's first regular climbing partner wasDick Renshaw, whom he had met at university. Together they climbed theNorth Face of the Eiger in the winter of 1975.[3] This was followed later that year by the first ascent of the South-East ridge ofDunagiri (7066m) in theGarhwalHimalayas. Running out of food and fuel on the descent, they were lucky to survive, although Renshaw sufferedfrostbite in his fingers.[3]
His ascent in 1976 of the West Face ofChangabang (6864m), which neighboured Dunagiri, saw his first partnership withPeter Boardman,[3] and was widely acclaimed as a bold, magnificent feat of mountaineering. Tasker made an unsuccessful attempt onNuptse withDoug Scott and Mike Covington in the autumn of 1977, and he and Boardman were invited to theK2 expedition led byChris Bonington in 1978, which was abandoned afterNick Estcourt was killed in an avalanche.[2]
A small team consisting of Tasker, Boardman, andDoug Scott made an ascent ofKangchenjunga (at 8,598 m the third highest mountain in the world) by a new route from the North-West in 1979 (withGeorges Bettembourg also on the team but not making the summit); this was also the first ascent of the mountain without the use of supplementary oxygen. A second attempt onK2 in 1980 saw Tasker almost wiped out by an avalanche and was ultimately unsuccessful. In the winter of 1980–1981 Tasker was part of an eight-man team (withAlan Rouse, John Porter, Brian Hall, Adrian Burgess, Alan Burgess, Pete Thexton andPaul Nunn) attempting to make a difficult winter assault on the West Face ofMount Everest; this was unsuccessful but was recounted in Tasker's first bookEverest the Cruel Way.[4]
In 1980, Tasker met Maria Coffey, the girlfriend who would write about her grief following his death in her bookFragile Edge.[5] In 1981, he was part of the British team which made the first ascent ofKongur Tagh (7,649 m) inChina, accompanied by Chris Bonington, Peter Boardman and Alan Rouse. He disappeared with Boardman on 17 May 1982 on the North-East Ridge of Everest. The body of Boardman was found in 1992, resting in a sitting position just past the second pinnacle in the extremely difficult area of the "Three Pinnacles" on the middle North-East Ridge of Everest.[2] The body of Tasker is still missing, although some of his climbing equipment was found between the second and third pinnacles.
Tasker had delivered his manuscript for his second book,Savage Arena, which recounted his climbing life from the 1960s–1980, on the eve of his departure for the British Everest expedition in 1982. The book was published posthumously later that year.[3]
TheBoardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature was founded in memory of Tasker and Boardman and was first awarded in 1983.[6]
