| Scottish Gaelic name | Ì Chaluim Chille |
|---|---|
| Pronunciation | [ˈiːˈxal̪ˠɪmˈçiʎə]ⓘ |
 The Abbey as seen from the sea | |
| Location | |
  Iona Iona shown on a map of Great Britain and Ireland Show map of the United Kingdom | |
| OS grid reference | NM275245 |
| Coordinates | 56°19′48″N06°24′36″W / 56.33000°N 6.41000°W /56.33000; -6.41000 |
| Physical geography | |
| Island group | Mull |
| Area | 877 ha (3+3⁄8 sq mi) |
| Area rank | 56 [1] |
| Highest elevation | Dùn Ì, 101 m (331 ft) |
| Administration | |
| Council area | Argyll and Bute |
| Country | Scotland |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Demographics | |
| Population | 177[2] |
| Population rank | 35 [1] |
| Largest settlement | Baile Mór |
 | |
| References | [3][4][5] |
Iona (/aɪˈoʊnə/;Scottish Gaelic:Ì Chaluim Chille[ˈiːˈxal̪ˠɪmˈçiʎə]ⓘ, sometimes simplyÌ) is an island in theInner Hebrides, off theRoss of Mull on the western coast ofScotland. It is mainly known forIona Abbey, though there are other buildings on the island. Iona Abbey was a centre ofGaelic monasticism for three centuries[3] and is today known for its relative tranquility and natural environment.[6] It is a tourist destination and a place forspiritual retreats. Its modern Scottish Gaelic name means "Iona of (Saint)Columba" (formerly anglicised as "Icolmkill").
In 2019, Iona's estimated population was 120.[7] In March 1980, the Hugh Fraser Foundation donated much of the main island (and its off-lying islands) to the current owner, theNational Trust for Scotland. The abbey and some church buildings are owned by the Iona Cathedral Trust.[8]
One publication, describing the religious significance of the island, says that the island is "known as the birthplace of Celtic Christianity in Scotland,” and notes that “St Columba came here in the year 563 to establish the Abbey, which still stands".[9]
Because theHebrides have been successively occupied by speakers of several languages since theIron Age, many of its islands' names have more than one possible meaning.[10] Nonetheless, few, if any, have accumulated as many different names over the centuries as the island now known in English as "Iona".
The place-name scholarWilliam J. Watson has shown that the earliest recorded names of the island meant something like "yew-place".[11] The elementIvo-, denoting "yew", occurs in inscriptions in theogham alphabet (Iva-cattos [genitive],Iva-geni [genitive]) and in Gaulish names (Ivo-rix,Ivo-magus); it may also be the basis of early Gaelic names likeEógan (ogham:Ivo-genos).[12][fn 1] The island's name may also be related to the name of a mythological figure,Fer hÍ mac Eogabail, the foster-son ofManannán, whose forename meaning "man of the yew".[13]
Coates (2006) disputes the "yew" interpretation due to a lack of archeological evidence for yew on the island. Coates instead compares the Punic term’y ("island, isolated place").[14]
Mac an Tàilleir (2003) has analyzed the more recent Gaelic names ofÌ,[fn 2]Ì Chaluim Chille andEilean Idhe. He notes that the nameÌ was "generally lengthened to avoid confusion" toÌ Chaluim Chille, which means "Calum's Iona" or "island of Calum's monastery". ("Calum"'slatinized form is "Columba".)[15][16] This confusion would have arisen becauseì, the original name of the island, would have been confused with the now-obsolete Gaelic nounì, meaning "island", which was derived from theOld Norse word for island (ey).[17][18]Eilean Idhe means "the isle of Iona", also known asÌ nam ban bòidheach ("the isle of beautiful women"). The modern English name comes from yet another variant,Ioua,[15][16] which arose either fromAdomnán's 7th century attempt to make the Gaelic name fit Latin grammar, or spontaneously, as a derivative ofIvova ("yew place").[19] The change in the island's name fromIoua' toIona, which is attested from c. 1274,[20] resulted from a transcription error due to the similarity of "n" and "u" inInsular Minuscule script.[21]
Despite the continuity of forms in Gaelic from the pre-Norse to the post-Norse era, Haswell-Smith (2004) speculates that the island's name may be connected with theNorse wordHiōe, meaning "island of the den of the brown bear".[16] The medieval English-language version of the name was "Icolmkill" (and variants thereof).[16]
| Table of earliest forms (incomplete) | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Form | Source | Language | Notes | |
| Ioua insula | Adomnán'sVita Columbae (c. 700) | Latin | Adomnán callsEiggEgea insula and SkyeScia insula | |
| Hii, Hy | Bede'sHistoria ecclesiastica gentis Anglorum | Latin | ||
| Eoa, Iae, Ie, I Cholaim Chille | Annals of Ulster | Irish, Latin | U563Nauigatio Coluim Chille ad Insolam Iae "The journey of St Columba to Í" U641Naufragium scaphe familie Iae. "Shipwreck of a vessel of the community of Í." U716Pascha comotatur in Eoa ciuitate "The date of Easter is changed in the monastery of Í")[22] U717Expulsio familie Ie "The expulsion of the community of Í" U778Niall...a nn-I Cholaim Chille "Niall... in Í Cholaim Chille" | |
| Hi, Eu | Lebor na hUidre | Irish | Hi con ilur a mmartra "Hi with the multitude of its relics" in tan conucaib a chill hi tosuċ .i. Eu "the time he raised his church first i.e. Eu" | |
| Eo | Walafrid Strabo (c. 831) | Latin | Insula Pictorum quaedam monstratur in oris fluctivago suspensa salo, cognominis Eo "On the coasts of the Picts is pointed out an isle poised in the rolling sea, whose name isEo"[23] | |
| Euea insula | Life of St Cathróe of Metz | Latin | ||
Murray (1966) claims that the "ancient" Gaelic name wasInnis nan Druinich ("the isle ofDruidic hermits"), but there is no evidence for the "ancient" use of such a name before the nineteenth century when it appears in theNew Statistical Account and it may arise from a misunderstanding of the nameCladh nan Druineach, which means 'burial ground of the embroideresses or artificers' – a cemetery on the east shore of the island. He also repeats a Gaelic story (which he admits is apocryphal) that as Columba's coracle first drew close to the island one of his companions cried out"Chì mi i" meaning "I see her" and that Columba's response was "Henceforth we shall call her Ì".[24]
The geology of Iona is quite complex given the island's size and quite distinct from that of nearby Mull. About half of the island's bedrock is Scouriangneiss assigned to theLewisian complex and dating from theArchaean eon making it some of theoldest rock in Britain and indeed Europe. Closely associated with these gneisses aremylonite and meta-anorthosite and melagabbro. Along the eastern coast facing Mull are steeplydippingNeoproterozoic agemetaconglomerates,metasandstones, metamudstones andhornfelsed metasiltstones ascribed to theIona Group, described traditionally asTorridonian. In the southwest and on parts of the west coast arepelites andsemipelites of Archaean to Proterozoic age. There are small outcrops of Silurian age pink granite on southeastern beaches, similar to those of the Ross of Mull pluton cross the sound to the east. Numerousgeological faults cross the island, many in an E-W or NW-SE alignment.Devonian aged microdioritedykes are found in places and some of these are themselves cut byPalaeocene agecamptonite andmonchiquite dykes ascribed to the "Iona-Ross of Mulldyke swarm". More recent sedimentary deposits ofQuaternary age include both present day beach deposits andraised marine deposits around Iona as well as some restricted areas of blown sand.[25][26]
_by_John_Bartholomy_1874.jpg)
Iona lies about 2 kilometres (1 mile) from the coast ofMull. It is about 2 km (1 mi) wide and 6 km (4 mi) long with a resident population of 125.[27] Like other places swept by ocean breezes, there are few trees; most of them are near the parish church.
Iona's highest point is Dùn Ì, 101 m (331 ft), an Iron Age hill fort dating from 100 BC – A.D. 200. Iona's geographical features include theBay at the Back of the Ocean andCàrn Cùl ri Éirinn (the Hill/Cairn of [turning the] Back to Ireland), said to be adjacent to the beach where St. Columba first landed.
The main settlement, located at St. Ronan's Bay on the eastern side of the island, is calledBaile Mòr and is also known locally as "The Village". The primary school, post office, the island's two hotels, theBishop's House and the ruins of theNunnery are here. The Abbey and MacLeod Centre are a short walk to the north.[4][28] Port Bàn (white port) beach on the west side of the island is home to the Iona Beach Party.[29]
There are numerous offshore islets andskerries: Eilean Annraidh (island of storm) and Eilean Chalbha (calf island) to the north, Rèidh Eilean and Stac MhicMhurchaidh to the west and Eilean Mùsimul (mouse holm island) and Soa Island to the south are amongst the largest.[4] The steamerCathcart Park carrying a cargo of salt fromRuncorn toWick ran aground on Soa on 15 April 1912, the crew of 11 escaping in two boats.[30][fn 3]
On a map of 1874, the following territorial subdivision is indicated (from north to south):[31]
In the early Historic Period Iona lay within theGaelickingdom ofDál Riata, in the region controlled by theCenél Loairn (i.e.Lorn, as it was then). The island was the site of a highly importantmonastery (seeIona Abbey) during theEarly Middle Ages. The monastery was founded in 563 by the monkColumba, also known as Colm Cille, who sailed here from Ireland to live the monastic life. Much later legends (a thousand years later, and without any good evidence) said that he had been exiled from his nativeIreland as a result of his involvement in theBattle of Cul Dreimhne.[32] Columba and twelve companions went into exile on Iona and founded a monastery there. The monastery was hugely successful and may have played a role in the conversion toChristianity of thePicts and Gaels of present-dayScotland in the late 6th century, and was certainly central to the conversion of theAnglo-Saxon kingdom ofNorthumbria in 635. Many satellite institutions were founded, and Iona became the centre of one of the most importantmonastic systems in Great Britain and Ireland.[33]
Iona became a renowned centre of learning, and itsscriptorium produced highly important documents, probably including the original texts of the Iona Chronicle, thought to be the source for the earlyIrish annals.[33] The monastery is often associated with the distinctive practices and traditions known asCeltic Christianity. In particular, Iona was a major supporter of the "Celtic" system forcalculating the date of Easter at the time of theEaster controversy, which pitted supporters of the Celtic system against those favoring the "Roman" system used elsewhere in Western Christianity. The controversy weakened Iona's ties to Northumbria, which adopted the Roman system at theSynod of Whitby in 664, and to Pictland, which followed suit in the early 8th century. Iona itself did not adopt the Roman system until 715, according to the Anglo-Saxon historianBede. Iona's prominence was further diminished over the next centuries as a result ofViking raids and the rise of other powerful monasteries in the system, such as theAbbey of Kells.[33][34]
TheBook of Kells may have been produced or begun on Iona towards the end of the 8th century.[33][35] Around this time the island's exemplaryhigh crosses were sculpted; these may be the first such crosses to contain the ring around the intersection that became characteristic of the "Celtic cross".[33] The series of Viking raids on Iona began in 794 and, after its treasures had been plundered many times, Columba's relics were removed and divided two ways between Scotland and Ireland in 849 as the monastery was abandoned.[36]
As the Norse domination of the west coast of Scotland advanced, Iona became part of theKingdom of the Isles. The NorseRex plurimarum insularumAmlaíb Cuarán died in 980 or 981 whilst in "religious retirement" on Iona.[37][38] Nonetheless, the island was sacked twice by his successors, on Christmas night 986 and again in 987.[39] Although Iona was never again important to Ireland, it rose to prominence once more in Scotland following the establishment of theKingdom of Scotland in the later 9th century; the ruling dynasty of Scotland traced its origin to Iona, and the island thus became an important spiritual centre for the new kingdom, with many of its early kings buried there.[33] However, a campaign byMagnus Barelegs led to the formal acknowledgement of Norwegian control of Argyll, in 1098.
Somerled, the brother-in-law of Norway's governor of the region (theKing of the Isles), launched a revolt and made the kingdom independent. Aconvent forAugustinian nuns was established in about 1208, withBethóc, Somerled's daughter, as first prioress. The present buildings are of the Benedictineabbey,Iona Abbey, from about 1203, dissolved at theReformation.
On Somerled's death, nominal Norwegian overlordship of the Kingdom was re-established, but de facto control was split between Somerled's sons, and his brother-in-law.
Following the 1266Treaty of Perth the Hebrides were transferred from Norwegian to Scottish overlordship.[40] At the end of the century, KingJohn Balliol was challenged for the throne byRobert the Bruce. By this point, Somerled's descendants had split into three groups, theMacRory,MacDougalls, andMacDonalds. The MacDougalls backed Balliol, so when he was defeated by Bruce, the latter exiled the MacDougalls and transferred their island territories to the MacDonalds; by marrying theheir of the MacRorys,the heir of the MacDonalds re-unified most of Somerled's realm, creating theLordship of the Isles, under nominal Scottish authority. Iona, which had been a MacDougall territory (together with the rest of Lorn), was given to theCampbells, where it remained for half a century.
In 1354, though in exile and without control of his ancestral lands,John, the MacDougall heir, quitclaimed any rights he had over Mull and Iona to the Lord of the Isles (though this had no meaningful effect at the time). When Robert's son,David II, became king, he spent some time in English captivity; following his release, in 1357, he restored MacDougall authority over Lorn. The 1354 quitclaim, which seems to have been an attempt to ensure peace in just such an eventuality, took automatic effect, splitting Mull and Iona from Lorn, and making it subject to the Lordship of the Isles. Iona remained part of the Lordship of the Isles for the next century and a half.
Following the 1491Raid on Ross, the Lordship of the Isles was dismantled, and Scotland gained full control of Iona for the second time. The monastery and nunnery continued to be active until theReformation, when buildings were demolished and all but three of the 360 carved crosses destroyed.[41] The Augustine nunnery now only survives as a number of 13th century ruins, including a church and cloister. By the 1760s little more of the nunnery remained standing than at present, though it is the most complete remnant of a medieval nunnery in Scotland.
After a visit in 1773, the English writerSamuel Johnson remarked:
He estimated the population of the village at 70 families or perhaps 350 inhabitants.
In the 19th century, green-streaked marble was commercially mined in the south-east of Iona; the quarry and machinery survive, see "Marble Quarry remains" below.[43]
Iona Abbey, now anecumenical church, is of particular historical and religious interest to pilgrims and visitors alike. It is the most elaborate and best-preserved ecclesiastical building surviving from the Middle Ages in theWestern Isles ofScotland. Though modest in scale in comparison to medieval abbeys elsewhere inWestern Europe, it has a wealth of fine architectural detail and monuments of many periods. The enabling endowments, the core economic strength and life-blood of the Abbey came from successive Clan Donald Lords of the Isles and for 300 years were regularly confirmed, honoured, protected, increased and expanded. Endowments had "carta confirmations" and additional ones made by them during the 14th and 15th centuries as late as 1440 and 1485. Donald of Harlaw (1386-1421): "gave lands to the monastery of Iona, and every immunity which the monastery of Iona had from his ancestors before him" – MacVurich. It might be expressed that Iona Abbey had been acting as a "(holy owned) land trust" for Clan Donald from Somerled who built St. Oran's Chapel.[44]
The8th Duke of Argyll presented the sacred buildings and sites of the island to the Iona Cathedral trust in 1899.[3] Historic Environment Scotland also recommends visiting the Augustinian nunnery, "the most complete nunnery complex to survive in Scotland".[45] The nunnery was founded by Somerled's son, Reginald, as was Iona Abbey and Saddell Abbey. Reginald's sister, Beathag, was the first Prioress of the Iona Nunnery.[46] The nunnery declined after theScottish Reformation but was still used as a burial place for women.[47]
In front of the Abbey stands the 9th century St Martin's Cross, one of the best-preserved Celtic crosses in theBritish Isles, and a replica of the 8th century St John's Cross (original fragments in the Abbey museum).
The ancient burial ground, called the Rèilig Odhrain (Eng: Oran's "burial place" or "cemetery"), contains the 12th century chapel built by Somerled where the Lords of the Isles were buried and named afterSt Odhrán (said to beColumba's uncle). It was restored at the same time as the Abbey itself. It contains a number of medieval grave monuments. The abbey graveyard is said to contain the graves of many earlyScottish Kings, as well as Norse kings from Ireland and Norway. Iona became the burial site for the kings ofDál Riata and their successors. Notable burials there include:
In 1549 an inventory of 48 Scottish, 8 Norwegian and 4 Irish kings was recorded. None of these graves are now identifiable (their inscriptions were reported to have worn away at the end of the 17th century). SaintBaithin and SaintFailbhe may also be buried on the island. The Abbey graveyard is also the final resting place ofJohn Smith, the former Labour Party leader, who loved Iona. His grave is marked with an epitaph quotingAlexander Pope: "An honest man's the noblest work of God".[48]
Limited archaeological investigations commissioned by the National Trust for Scotland found some evidence for ancient burials in 2013. The excavations, conducted in the area ofMartyrs Bay, revealed burials from the 6th–8th centuries, probably jumbled up and reburied in the 13–15th centuries.[49]
Other early Christian and medieval monuments have been removed for preservation to the cloister arcade of the Abbey, and the Abbey museum (in the medieval infirmary). The ancient buildings of Iona Abbey are now cared for byHistoric Environment Scotland (there is an entrance charge to visit them).
The remains of a marble quarrying enterprise are present in a small bay on the south-east shore of Iona.[50] The quarry is the source of "Iona Marble", a translucent green and white stone, much used in brooches and other jewellery.[51] The stone has been known of for centuries and was credited with healing and other powers. While the quarry had been used in a small way, it was not until around the end of the 18th century when it was opened up on a more industrial scale by the Duke of Argyle.[52] The difficulties of extracting the hard stone and transporting it meant that the scheme was short lived. Another attempt was started in 1907, this time more successful with considerable quantities of stone extracted and indeed exported. The First World War impacted the quarry, with little quarrying after 1914 and the operation finally closed in 1919. A painting showing the quarry in operation,The Marble Quarry, Iona (1909) byDavid Young Cameron, is in the collection ofCartwright Hall art gallery in Bradford.[53] The site has been designated as a Scheduled Ancient Monument.[54]
The island, other than the land owned by the Iona Cathedral Trust, was purchased from the Duke of Argyll byHugh Fraser in 1979 and donated to theNational Trust for Scotland.[3] In 2001 Iona's population was 125[55] and by the time of the2011 census this had grown to 177 usual residents.[2] During the same periodScottish island populations as a whole grew by 4% to 103,702.[56] The estimated permanent population in 2020 was 120.
The island's tourism bureau estimated that roughly 130,000 visitors arrived each year.[7] Many tourists come to visit the Abbey and other ecclesiastical properties and the marble quarry or to enjoy the nine beaches that are within walking distance of the main area.[57][58]
Not to be confused with the local island community, Iona (Abbey) Community is based within Iona Abbey.
In 1938George MacLeod founded the Iona Community, an ecumenical Christian community of men and women from different walks of life and different traditions in the Christian church committed to seeking new ways of living theGospel ofJesus in today's world. This community is a leading force in the presentCeltic Christian revival.
The Iona Community runs three residential centres on the Isle of Iona and onMull, where one can live together in community with people of every background from all over the world. Weeks at the centres often follow a programme related to the concerns of the Iona Community.
The 8 tonneFallen Christ sculpture byRonald Rae was permanently situated outside the MacLeod Centre in February 2008.[59]
Visitors can reach Iona by the 10 minute ferry trip across theSound of Iona fromFionnphort onMull. The most common route from the mainland is viaOban inArgyll and Bute, where regular ferries connect toCraignure on Mull, from where the scenic road runs 37 miles (60 kilometres) to Fionnphort. Tourist coaches and local bus services meet the ferries.
Car ownership is lightly regulated, with no requirement for a MOT Certificate or payment of Road Tax for cars kept permanently on the island, but vehicular access is restricted to permanent residents and there are few cars. Visitors are not allowed to bring vehicles onto the island although "blue badge holders with restricted mobility ... may apply for a permit under certain exemptions". Visitors will find the village, the shops, the post office, the cafe, the hotels and the abbey are all within walking distance. Bike hire is available at the pier, and on Mull. Taxi service is also available.[60]
| Preceding station | Ferry | Following station | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Terminus | Caledonian MacBrayne Iona Ferry | Fionnphort |
Conde Nast Traveller recommends the island for its "peaceful atmosphere ... a popular place for spiritual retreats" but also recommends the "sandy beaches, cliffs, rocks, fields and bogs ... "wildflowers and birds such as the rare corncrake and puffins" as well as the "abundance of sea life".[61]
The Iona Council advises visitors that they can find a campsite (at Cnoc Oran), a hostel (at Lagandorain), family runbed and breakfasts and two hotels on the island in addition to several self-catering houses.[62] The agency also mentions that distances are short, with the Abbey a mere 10 minutes walk from the pier. Tourists can rent bikes or use the local taxi.[63]
The island of Iona has played an important role in Scottish landscape painting, especially during the Twentieth Century. As travel to north and west Scotland became easier from the mid C18 on, artists' visits to the island steadily increased. The Abbey remains in particular became frequently recorded during this early period. Many of the artists are listed and illustrated in the valuable book,"Iona Portrayed – The Island through Artists' Eyes 1760–1960",[64] which lists over 170 artists known to have painted on the island.
The C20, however, saw the greatest period of influence on landscape painting, in particular through the many paintings of the island produced byF. C. B. Cadell andS. J. Peploe, two of the "Scottish Colourists". As with many artists, both professional and amateur, they were attracted by the unique quality of light, the white sandy beaches, the aquamarine colours of the sea and the landscape of rich greens and rocky outcrops. While Cadell and Peploe are perhaps best known, many major Scottish painters of the C20 worked on Iona and visited many times – for exampleGeorge Houston,D. Y. Cameron,James Shearer,John Duncan and John Maclauchlan Milne,[65] among many.
Samuel Johnson wrote "That man is little to be envied whose patriotism would not gain force upon theplains of Marathon or whose piety would not grow warmer amid the ruins of Iona."[66]
InJules Verne's novelThe Green Ray, the heroes visit Iona in chapters 13 to 16. The inspiration is romantic, the ruins of the island are conducive to daydreaming. The young heroine, Helena Campbell, argues that Scotland in general and Iona in particular are the scene of the appearance of goblins and other familiar demons.
InJean Raspail's novelThe Fisherman's Ring (1995), his cardinal is one of the last to support the antipopeBenedict XIII and his successors.
In the novelThe Carved Stone (by Guillaume Prévost), the young Samuel Faulkner is projected in time as he searches for his father and lands on Iona in the year 800, then threatened by the Vikings.
"Peace of Iona" is a song written byMike Scott that appears on the studio albumUniversal Hall and on the live recordingKarma to Burn byThe Waterboys. Iona is the setting for the song "Oran" on the 1997Steve McDonald albumStone of Destiny.
Kenneth C. Steven published an anthology of poetry entitledIona: Poems in 2000 inspired by his association with the island and the surrounding area.
Iona is featured prominently in the first episode ("By the Skin of Our Teeth") of the celebrated arts seriesCivilisation: A Personal View by Kenneth Clark (1969).
Iona is the setting of Jeanne M. Dams' Dorothy Martin mysteryHoly Terror of the Hebrides (1998).
TheAcademy Award–nominated Irish animated filmThe Secret of Kells is about the creation of theBook of Kells. One of the characters, Brother Aidan, is a masterilluminator from Iona Abbey who had helped to illustrate the Book, but had to escape the island with it during a Viking invasion.
Frances Macdonald the contemporary Scottish artist based in Crinian, Argyll, regularly paints landscapes on Iona.
Neil Gaiman's poem "In Relig Odhrain", published inTrigger Warning: Short Fictions and Disturbances (2015), retells the story of Oran's death, and the creation of the chapel on Iona. This poem was made into a short stop-motion animated film, released in 2019.[67]
Iona's local golf course was featured on Season 7'sAdventure's in Golf by documentary filmmaker, Erik Anders Lang.[68]
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