Inaccessible Island is avolcanic island located in theSouth Atlantic Ocean, 31 km (19 mi) south-west ofTristan da Cunha. Its highest point, Swale's Fell, reaches 581 m (1,906 ft), and the island is 12.65 km2 (4.88 sq mi) in area. The volcano was last active approximately one million years ago and is nowextinct.[2]
Southern coast of Inaccessible Island seen in 2024, withTristan da Cunha visible on the right.
The island is approximately 40 kilometres (22 nmi; 25 mi) to the southwest of the main island of the Tristan da Cunha archipelago. Mostly desolate and inhospitable, the island has a few small, rocky beaches that hostpenguins andsubantarctic fur seals.[5] Generations of sailors were wary of the difficult landing and inhospitable terrain.[4] Inaccessible Island has been without permanent inhabitants since 1873.[5]
Inaccessible Island was discovered in January 1656 during a voyage by theNachtglas ("the night glass"), aDutchship under the command ofJan Jakobszoon.[7] It was discovered 146 years after Tristan da Cunha was first sighted by Portuguese sailors. Jakobszoon originally named it "Nachtglas" island.[citation needed]
There are two explanations for the name "Inaccessible" Island. One is that the Dutch crew who landed were not able to reach its interior.[8] The other claims that French captain d'Etcheverry renamed the island in 1778 after not being able to land.[9][10]
In 1803, US sailors led by Amasa Delano made landfall on the island during a voyage to theCape of Good Hope.[7]
The brothers Gustav and Frederick Stoltenhoff arrived on Inaccessible from Germany in 1871. They lived there for two years to make a living sealing and selling their wares to passing traders, although such trade was minimal. Due to the scarcity of food, they were "overjoyed" to be rescued in 1873 duringHMS Challenger's visit to examine the flora and fauna there.[11] The South African authorEric Rosenthal chronicled the Stoltenhoffs' adventure in 1952.[12] The nearbyStoltenhoff Island is named for the brothers.[4]
In 1922, theShackleton–Rowett Expedition's ship, theQuest, stopped by Inaccessible briefly, and on-board naturalistHubert Wilkins discovered a bird later named theWilkins finch (Nesospiza wilkinsi). In 1938, theNorwegian Scientific Expedition to Tristan da Cunha spent three weeks on the island, during which time they managed to gain access to the plateau and extensively catalogued plants, birds, and rocks. Another attempt at mapping the island was made during theRoyal Society's expedition of 1962 to Tristan da Cunha, which took scientists to Inaccessible Island. Like many other explorers before them, the scientists were not able to reach the interior of the island.[citation needed]
Inaccessible Island was declared a nature reserve under the Tristan da Cunha Conservation Ordinance of 1976. Tristan islanders, however, were still permitted to harvest seabirds from the island. In a 1982 expedition (16 October 1982 – 10 February 1983), students and faculty ofDenstone College in England made detailed maps of the island, studied its flora, fauna, and geology, and carried out abird ringing programme on more than 3,000 birds.[13][14][15]
In 1997, Inaccessible Island's territorial waters out to 22 km (14 mi) were declared a nature reserve under the Tristan da Cunha Conservation Ordinance of 1976. Currently, only guides from Tristan are allowed to take visiting cruise ships to Inaccessible; most trips to the island are now made at the request ofexpatriates.[citation needed] In 2004 Inaccessible Island was added to theUNESCOWorld Heritage Site of Gough Island to create a new site ofGough and Inaccessible Islands.[citation needed]
At least three confirmed shipwrecks have occurred off the coast of the island. The first wasBlenden Hall, a British ship which set sail in 1821 with 54 passengers and crew aboard, her destinationBombay. Captain Alexander Grieg intended to sail pastSaint Helena, but adverse currents carried her to Tristan da Cunha. She got caught in seaweed, and on 22 July, drifted aground on Inaccessible Island. All but two of those aboard survived the shipwreck.[16] They spent the next four months subsisting on wild celery, seals, penguins, and albatross.[17] They managed to build a boat some months later. The first attempt to sail to Tristan failed, resulting in the loss of six people; the second attempt alerted the Tristanians to their plight. The remainder were then brought to Tristan, where thebrigNerina arrived about two months later and took most toCape Town, South Africa.[16]
The other two shipwrecks are the wreck ofShakespeare at Pig Beach in 1883, andHelenslea at North Point in 1897.[citation needed]
Northern rockhopper penguins, from an engraving after a photograph, published in a book by the naturalist aboardHMS Challenger
Inaccessible rail
When Corporal William Glass and his family became the first settlers at Tristan da Cunha in 1816, goats and pigs were brought to Inaccessible Island to serve as a source of food. Cattle, sheep, and dogs were introduced to the island during its history. Domestic animals helped to keep the Stoltenhoff brothers alive during their expedition. All remaining domestic animals were removed during the 1950s.[4]
Several plant pathogens have been introduced to the island. These arescale insects and an associatedsooty mold fungus. This has killed some of thePhylica trees and reduced the amount of fruit they produce. A likely consequence is the observed serious decline in numbers ofInaccessible Island finch between 2014 and 2020.[19]
InPatrick O'Brian'sThe Thirteen-Gun Salute (1989), pp. 120–29, Captain Aubrey's shipDiane, in a dead calm, is carried toward Inaccessible Island by the onshore current. One sailor recounts the wreck of a whaling ship that he witnessed when it was lost with all hands in similar conditions. Only a fortunate breeze saves Aubrey's ship. The episode is depicted in the cover painting of the book showing the towering cliffs plunging directly into the sea.
"Sea Lion", the pseudonym of "a serving naval officer" (Geoffrey Martin Bennett), wroteThe Phantom Fleet (1946), predicated on the supposition that Inaccessible Island contained a natural harbour, the entrance to which was concealed from the sea. The antagonists were assembling a fleet of obsolescent warships in this harbour, with the intention of striking acoup de main leading to world domination, a scheme foiled by the derring-do of a naval officer and the guns of the Royal Navy.
Eric Newby passed within sight of Inaccessible Island on his 1938–1939 voyage from Ireland to Australia aboardMoshulu, as chronicled in his booksThe Last Grain Race andLearning the Ropes. It was the only land that the crew saw on the voyage until reaching Australia, and was therefore a cause for some excitement.
^Édouard Ducéré,Histoire maritime de Bayonne: Les corsaires sous la̓ncien régime (Bayonne, 1895:307–24) reproduces the sieur d'Etcheverry's manuscript narrative of his voyage to Moluccas in 1770 in theEtoile du Matin and mentions a second voyage in 1772.
^A Naturalist on the "Challenger", H. N. Moseley. p. 116. Macmillan and Co., 1879. Fetched fromarchive.org on 3 June 2009.
^Rosenthal, Eric (1952)Shelter from the Spray, Cape Town, South Africa: Howard Timmins
^Denstone Expedition to Inaccessible Island:Denstonian Supplement (Autumn 1983), p. 2.
^Richard Higgs; Vince Smith. Davison, Sarah (ed.). "A tribute to Michael Swales".Wild Staffordshire (Summer 2025).Staffordshire Wildlife Trust: 30.
^abLloyd's List. Westmead, Gt. Brit.: Gregg International. 1822. pp. 78 v.The Blenden Hall, Greig, from London to Bombay, was totally wrecked on the 23d of July, on Inaccessible Island, near Tristan da Cunha. The Master, Officers, and Passengers saved : two of the crew were drowned when the Ship was lost; and six others who left the island in a boat on the 19th October for Tristan da Cunha, have not since been heard of. The Nerinæ Lachlan, of London, arrived at the Cape of Good Hope 20th January, with 4 ladies, 3 children, 20 other passengers, and 11 of the crew, who had been on Inaccessible Island sixteen weeks, and went from thence in boats to Tristan da Cunha.
^Stervander, Martin; Ryan, Peter G.; Melo, Martim; Hansson, Bengt (1 January 2019). "The origin of the world's smallest flightless bird, the Inaccessible Island Rail Atlantisia rogersi (Aves: Rallidae)".Molecular Phylogenetics and Evolution.130:92–98.Bibcode:2019MolPE.130...92S.doi:10.1016/j.ympev.2018.10.007.PMID30321695.S2CID53024581.
^"Tristan Thrush".The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources. Retrieved30 April 2024.
^"Inaccessible Island".Important Bird Areas factsheet. BirdLife International. 2012. Retrieved26 October 2012.
^"Inaccessible Island Finch".The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources. Retrieved30 April 2024.
24Claimed in 1908; territory formed 1962; overlaps portions of Argentine and Chilean claims, borders not enforced but claim not renounced under theAntarctic Treaty.