The province is in the western part of the country inRegion 4 and covers 20,164.11 km2 (7,785.41 mi2). It shares 425 km (264 mi) of theborder with Iraq, and also borders on the provinces ofKermanshah,Lorestan, andKhuzestan.
The name "Ilam" comes from "Elam", the pre-historic civilization that ruled the area in modern southwest Iran from 2700 BC to 539 BC. Archaeological findings date human settlement of the area to around 5000 BC.
Ashurbanipal, the then king ofAssyria, invaded Elam in 639 BC and totally destroyed it. Although not as united as before, the Elamites survived and continued to live in the area after the invasion. Between 612 and 546 BC, Elam was incorporated into theMedian Empire and later into theAchaemenid Empire in 539 BC. During theAchaemenid Empire, Elam lost its independence forever and became the third province of the empire afterPersis and Media.[16]
During theMedian,Achaemenid,Seleucid, andParthian eras the area and its settlements took on importance due to its proximity to the districts of Hamadan,Kurdistan, Kermanshah, Lorestan and, most notably,Susa,
During theSasanian era, present-day Ilam was composed of two states:Mehrjanqazaq in the east, which was the modern dayDarreh Shahr and Masbasan in the west.[17]
After theMuslim conquest of Mesopotamia in 640 AD, the Arabs named the area the "Land of the Mountains," or "Jibal". During the Arabs' rule, the kingdom of Jibal, whose capital wasSeymareh, was one of the territories under the control of Baghdad and Basra, and lasted until 961 CE.
TheRashidun Caliphate conqueredMesopotamia by 640 CE and later the wholeSasanid Empire by 643 CE and kept control until their collapse in 661 CE. Prior to their collapse, civil war had taken over the caliphate, after which theMuawiyah faction won and thus established theUmayyad Caliphate. The Umayyads controlled the area until their own collapse in 750 AD, after which theAbbasid Caliphate took over and reigned for around two hundred years until 945 CE. After conquering western Iran in 945 CE, theBuyid Dynasty ruled over this area until 1055.
For 270 years, between 1155 and 1424, the Kurds reigned in theZagros Mountains, especially areas aroundLorestan.Hazaraspids who are also known as LorestanAtabegs were composed of two groups, theLittle Lor, who were mostly of Lor descent and Big Lor Atabegs who were of Kurdish descent. The former controlled parts of the present-day provinces ofMarkazi,Hamedan,Kermanshah,Lorestan,Khuzestan and Ilam.[18]
The capital of Little Lor was Shapourkhwast or the modern-dayKhorramabad, especially theFalak-ol-Aflak Castle. The Little Lor Atabegs or theKhorshidi dynasty ruled over the area for over 412 years, from 1184 to 1597 CE, after whichShah Abbas the Great executed the last ruler, Shahverdi Khan, and replaced Shahverdi's nephew, Hossein Beyg/Khan, thus ending the rule of Little Lor and beginning of the Vali/Wali dynasty also known asFeyli Vali.[20]
During theQajar era, Lorestan was divided into two regions:Poshtkoh (present-day Ilam province) with the center of Ilam city and Pishkouh (present-day Lorestan) with the center ofKhorramabad. Poshtkhouh literally means “back of mountain” and it was due to the fact that Ilam was situated at the westernmost parts of theZagros Mountains and to the rest of the country it was plainly considered at the back of mountains.[21]
From that point on, Ilam was ruled independently from Lorestan, and the governor reported directly to the central government, thereby ending Lorestan control of Ilam and Poshtkouh. The two districts were later renamed "Deh-e Bala" and "Deh-e Pa'een", meaning the upper and lower villages respectively.[21][22] During the rule of Hossein Qoli Khan over "Deh-e Bala" (1863-1900 CE), it was renamed to "Hossein-Abad Poshtkuh".
The Vali Castle of Ilam was built by the next Vali, Gholamreza Khan Feyli, in 1908. The castle is now a nationally registeredheritage and also the Ilam Museum of Anthropology.
Following the establishment of thePahlavi dynasty in 1925,Reza Shah suppressed the local governments to consolidate his dominance. In 1928, the government forces took over Poshtkouh andGholamreza Khan Feyli, the last Feyli governor left Poshtkouh with any resistance and went to Iraq, thus abolishing the rule of the Feylis in Ilam after 332 years.[22] A year later, in 1929, "Hossein-Abad" was renamed to "Ilam" by the suggestion ofAcademy of Persian Language and Literature.[23]
On November 7, 1937, the parliament passed a law on the political division of the country under the title of "Act of Division of the Country and the Duties of the Governors", thereby dividing the country into 6 provinces and 50 counties.[24] Poshtkouh, being a county, was part of the "West Province".
The 1937 political division law did not last long and a while later on January 9, 1938, an amendment was passed which divided the country into 10 province and 49 counties. Based on the new division, "Ilam" was a county of the "Fifth Province".
After the 1979Islamic Revolution, Ilam was one of the main battlegrounds of theIran-Iraq war for years. The war began with theIraqi invasion into western and southwestern Iran on 22 September 1980. As a border province, Ilam was a constant target for the Iraqi bombing campaign and suffered heavily in terms of economic infrastructure. The war left Ilam province devastated for years, making it one of the least developed provinces in Iran.
Ilam province is situated at the southwestern edge of theZagros Mountains and right at the transition between theArabian and theIranian plateaus. Because of this, it is divided into two distinct natural areas; The northern and eastern parts are mountainous, whereas the southwest is covered with low plains that extend to the Iraqi and Khuzestan borders.
The mountains in the north and east are mostly parallel, running in the northwest–southeast direction. These mountains are separated by plains and rolling hills that are mostly used to grow crops and orchards by settlers.
The most prominent mountain in Ilam province isKabir Kouh, which is located in the eastern part of the province, stretching 160 km from nearPol-e Zal in the southeast toMishkhas village nearIlam city in the northwest. The highest point in the province,Kan Seifi peak with 2,775 m (9,104 ft) above sea level, is part of Kabir Kouh range.[25][26][27]
Contrary to the north, the south and southwestern part of the province is covered with low-lying plains with elevation varying between 50 and 300 m (160 and 980 ft) above sea level. Despite receiving little precipitation, large areas of these low lands, notablyDehloran,Musian andDasht Abbas, are cultivated owing to a combination of factors such as rivers flowing from the mountains to the east, dams and irrigation networks.
TheGhamasiab river, after running throughKermanshah province, flows toward Ilam. Upon arriving at the point where the borders of Ilam,Lorestan andKermanshah provinces meet, it is namedSeymareh. It then flows west and southward and somewhere nearKal Sefid Village,Darreh Shahr, is joined by theKashkan river and together they create theKarkheh river, the third longest river in Iran with a length of around 755 km. Seymareh and Karkheh constitute the Ilam's eastern border with Lorestan province.
Because of the terrain, the permanent and seasonal rivers and stream that originate from Ilam highlands either fall intoSeymareh, such as Chardavol, Garab, Seekan, Darreh Shahr and Majeen rivers; or, flow westward toward the low lands and into Iraq and Khuzestan, such as Ghanghir, Ghodar-Khosh, Kanjan-Cham, Roud Ghavi, Changouleh Meymeh, Murmuri, Doiraj and Siah Ghav rivers.[29]
Apart from some few springs here and there, such asSiah-Ghav Twin Lakes nearAbdanan, there are no major natural bodies of water in the province. There are, however, four dam that provide important drinking water, these includeIlam,Seymareh,Eywan andDoiraj dams.[30]
More than 6,400 km2 (2,500 mi2) of the province, around 31% of its territory, is covered with scattered to dense forests. This is about one third of the total forests in theZagros Mountains. The predominant species of these forests arePersian oak, though other trees such aswild almond,hawthorn,Persian turpentine,Montpellier maple andJudas can be found.
The Arghavan Canyon near Ilam is known for the pink blooms of theJudas-trees, which flower in Spring.
Due to its geographical location, natural conditions and the diversity of its habitats, Ilam province is home to 32 mammals and 183 birds. The mountainous areas, specifically, host mammals such as:
About 13% of the total territory of Ilam province is under the protection and monitoring of local and national natural reserves organizations. There are four protected areas, which in total, cover 1,377 km2 (532 mi2):
In addition to the protected areas mentioned above, there are:
"Tang-e Bina and Bijar" hunting prohibited area: around 500 km2 (190 mi2) in area, near Chavar;
"Arghavan Valley forest reserve" nearIlam city: known for its pink spring blossoms ofJudas tree; and,
"Largh forest reserve": known for itsPterocarya fraxinifolia trees. These trees are usually found in the rain forests ofNorthern Iran, but surprisingly grow in this small patch of land in "Lart Valley" nearBadreh.
And two nationally registered natural heritage sites:[36]
Razyaneh Canyon: a deep and narrow canyon carved by streams in the rock beds nearChenar Bashi, 10 to 30 m (33 to 98 ft) deep, 2 to 10 m (6.6 to 32.8 ft) in width, 1.5 km (0.93 mi) long; and,
Dehloran: an 1,400 ha (3,500 acres) area nearDehloran that includes hot water and bitumen springs, as well as 'bat caves'.
Seymareh Landslide inDarreh Shahr CountyView fromPol-e Dokhtar in Lorestan to the landslide scarp on the Kabir Kouh range; below is the landslide mass that crossed the river Seymareh, which now represents the border between Ilam and Lorestan
One of the largest landslides in the eastern hemisphere and world is believed to have occurred in Ilam Province, more specifically, in theKabir Kuhanticline atGorz-e Langar in Darreh Shahr county. According to Harrison and Falcon in their article onRoyal Geographical Society, published in 1937, the Seymareh landslide moved as much as 30 km3 (7.2 mi3) of rock as far as 14 km (8.7 mi). It is suspected that an earthquake could have triggered such a large landslide.[38][39][40]
Due to the influence of various factors such as altitude, proximity to theArabian desert, the plains ofKhuzestan andIraq, the climate of the province is very diverse.
Different atmospheric systems affect the province, causing fall, winter, spring, and occasionally summer precipitation. The Mediterranean and Black Sea air masses from the west, trigger autumn and winter rains in the province.[41]
The Red Sea and Saudi desert currents, too, bring winter and spring rains. The very same currents and the vast Iraqi plain to the west are the main causes of hot weather in summers. On the other hand, the northern air masses entering the country in winter from Siberia lower the temperatures and cause freezing in northern parts of the province.
Ilam province is considered as one of the tropical regions of the country, but due to difference in altitudes, temperature and precipitation, three different types of climate can be observed:[29][41]
Mountainous areas of the north and northeast, which have cold climate and long winters. The minimum temperature in winter reaches −15 to −20 °C (5 to −4 °F) and the amount of precipitation exceeds 600 mm (24 in) per year.
The plains of the west and southwest of the province have dry hot climate. The maximum temperature in these areas can exceed 52 °C (126 °F). The rainfall in these areas is about 200 mm (7.9 in) per year.
Other areas have temperature to warm climate with hot summers and mild winters. Temperatures can go as low as −15 °C (5 °F) in higher altitudes and in summers it can go above 45 °C (113 °F) in lower altitudes. Annual precipitation in these areas varies between 200 mm (7.9 in) and 450 mm (18 in).
Flood of Nov 2015 city of Ilam.Flood of 31 Mar 2019 at Majeen,Darreh Shahr
Occasional heavy rainstorms in spring and autumn bring, sometimes, huge floods. The steep slopes ofZagros Mountains, soil type, lack of vegetation are among some of the reasons why Ilam province is prone to flooding. Moreover, majority of communities in Ilam province are located in the floodplains, at the foothills of mountains, on river banks and near sources of water, so there is always risk of flooding with potential human and financial costs. According to the available statistics,Mehran andDehloran counties are at the highest risk of flooding due to their lower elevation compared to the rest of the province and the subsequent concentration and joining of rivers and streams.
The latest flood happened in March and April 2019, in which most of country, including Ilam province, experienced levels of flooding. On 1 April 2019, the flood destructed many bridges including the Gavmishan bridge inDarreh Shahr, an important bridge overKarkheh River which connects south of the province toLorestan and rest of the country. The bridge was reopened months later on 6 October 2019.[42]
Ilam is occasionally affected by dust, especially in summers. It has become more frequent in the last ten years. The cities of Mehran and Dehloran are at the highest risk in the province, due to lower elevation and proximity to the deserts of Iraq and Saudi Arabia. However, in case of large dust storms, the western part of the country could be affected. The successive droughts of the recent decade in Iran and the long wars in Iraq and Syria have also exacerbated the issue.[43][44]
Ilam Province has a diverse linguistic presence, albeit having the smallest population in Iran. This diversity derives from the geographical location of the province, positioned in the transitional zone betweenKurdish and theSouthwestern Iranian language bloc. The predominant language is Kurdish, more specifically theSouthern Kurdish dialects Kalhori, Elami, Malekshahi,Laki and the Khezeli dialect closely related to Laki. Kurdish is the dominant language in the cities ofIlam,Mehran,Eyvan,Abdanan,Sarableh,Lumar andPahleh, andCheshmeh-ye Shirin Shah Ahmad is the southern-most Kurdish-speaking settlement in the province.[11]
Luri is spoken in the southern parts of the province and is the predominant language inMurmuri,Haft Cheshmeh and many smaller villages. The city ofDarreh Shahr has a Luri-speaking majority with a significant Kurdish-speaking minority. Two linguistically distinctive Luri dialects called Hinimini and Shuhani are also spoken in the province.Shahrak-e Changuleh is the largest Shuhani-speaking settlement, while Hinimini is spoken in and aroundZarangush.[11]
The north is mostly inhabited by the KurdishFeylitribes. The Feyli tribes include theMalekshahi,Khezel, Arkawâzi,Kalhor, Beyrey, Shuhan, Lak, Zand and Ali Sherwan tribes.[45]
Notes: As Ilam Census Area in 1956 and Ilam General Governorate in 1966.Source:Statistical Center of Iran
At the time of the 2006 National Census, the province's population was 530,464 in 110,515 households.[47] The following census in 2011 counted 557,599 people in 135,499 households.[48] The 2016 census measured the population of the province as 580,158 people in 159,310 households.[7] Ilam is presently the least populated province in Iran.
The province of Ilam is divided into 12counties, 28districts and 52rural districts.[49] Following the approval of the government cabinet,Holeylan County was established on 4 January 2020, having been a district ofChardavol County prior to that, becoming the 11th county of the province.[50] Chavar District was separated from Ilam County and elevated to county status.[51]
The population history and structural changes of Ilam province's administrative divisions over three consecutive censuses are shown in the following table.
Ilam province is the least populated province in Iran.Ilam, the provincial capital, has a population of 194,030; All other towns have less than 35,000 population.
The original inhabitants of Ilam were theGuitians and theKassites, and with the arrival of theAryans in Iran, theMedes settled in the Zagros region. Throughout history, many people have settled and ruled in the region and as the result, today, Ilam is inhabited byKurds,Lurs, andArabs. For the same reasons, the culture of the Ilamians is diverse, mostly a blend of many cultures.[44]
Embossed kilim is a combination of simplekilim and carpet knot in its text, which is considered as the most important and original handicraft in Ilam province.[56] Ilam's embossedkilim is different from other parts of the country. Upon its creation by Sahar Chalanghar, a resident ofZanjireh village ofSarableh county, Ilam's embossed kilim became popular both in Iran and the world. Now, there are more than 4,500 weavers of this specific type of kilim in Ilam province, producing around 3,000m2 annually. It is estimated that around 50% of those involved in all handicrafts work in Ilam province are in the field of kilim production.
"Ilam's embossed kilim" is different from other parts of the country because a weaver named "Sahar Chalangar", a resident of Zanjireh village (one of the functions of Sarablah city of Ilam province), succeeds in performing a prominent role in a part of his woven kilim by using a carpet knot. From this, a background is provided for the growth and promotion of embossed kilims. Ilam's embossed kilim has received a national hologram and has been registered as a souvenir and brand of Ilam province.Ilam was subsequently appointed as the national capital of embossed kilim.[56][57][58]
The highest government authority of the province is the governor-general, who is appointed by theMinister of Interior given cabinet approval. The governor-general, subsequently appoints county governors. The incumbent governor-general isQasem Soleimani Dashtaki, who has been in office since October 2017.
With about 0.99% contribution to the national GDP as of 2016, Ilam is one of the least developed provinces in Iran, ranked 26th out of 31. Most economic activities in the province are focused on agriculture and animal husbandry in the rural communities; and, skilled trades, public and private services in urban areas. The industry has a small share in the economy of the province and there are few factories.
Production of crops and fruits in Ilam province as of 2018.
Crops: 700,732 tons (97.8%)
Fruits: 15,409 tons (2.2%)
The largest sector of Ilam's economy is agriculture, though much smaller compared to other provinces of Iran. There are more than 55,000 farmers in Ilam province. It is estimated that, about 50% of all households in the province are either directly or indirectly involved in agricultural activities.[61]
In 2018 harvest year, 223,228hectares (551,610acres) of land (11.1% of the territory of Ilam province) were cultivated for various crops such aswheat,barley,forage maize,corn,watermelon,melon andcucumber, producing 700,732 tons of produce in total, 14% throughdry farming. Ilam is the bottom 3rd province in the country in terms of crop yield at 3.14 tons per hectare, only surpassingKohgiluyeh andKurdestan. For comparison, the average yield is 9.88 tons per hectare and highest is 25.64 tons per hectare inAlborz province.[62]
The farming lands of Ilam, like its geography, are divided; The northern and eastern parts of the province are mountainous and despite the presence of water resources, cultivable lands are limited to inter-mountain plains, foothills and river banks; On the contrary, the hot climate plains of the south and southwest such as Hojandan-Dasht, Amir-Abad, Mehran, Mosian, Dehloran and Dasht-Abbas, are large in size but limited in water resources.[63]
As of 2019, the total area of all orchards in Ilam province was 3,950 ha (9,800acres), making it the last in the country. In total, these orchards produced 15,409 tons of fruits, or 0.1% of the country's production. The most grown horticultural products are:grapes,walnut,pomegranate,peach,olive andfig.[64]
The industry sector of Ilam's economy is poorly-developed even non-existent; As of 2017, the total number of industrial workshops (ten or more employees) in the province is just 52, 85% of which have under 50 employees. These workshops have 3,350, almost completely (96%) male, employees in total, accounting to a mere 0.6% of Ilam's population. As a comparison, the number of the same type of workshops is 6,806 forTehran and 3,892 forIsfahan provinces, indicating how underdeveloped Ilam's industry sector is. According to the latest statistics, Ilam is the least industrial province in Iran.[66] In recent years, some efforts went into stimulating Ilam's industry by building industrial towns and areas, providing encouraging opportunities for businesses such as cheaper land, utilities and tax. Since 2005, 8 such towns and 5 areas have been built.[67]
With an estimated 14 trillion m3 of gas reserves and 17 billionbarrels of oil reserve, equal to 6% and 11% of Iran's reserves respectively, Ilam ranks 2nd and 3rd in the country in terms of gas and oil. Ilam province produces more than 230,000barrels of oil per day and 1.5 billion cubic meters of gas per year, accounting to about 90% of western Iran's oil and gas, making Ilam the energy hub of western Iran. The most important oil and gas fields in Ilam are: Dehloran, Tang-e Bijar, Chashmeh Khosh, Paydar-e Gharb, Azar and Danan. Despite the huge oil and gas reserves in the province, there are few downstream processing plants including:[69][70]
List of down-stream oil and gas processing plants in Ilam province
Ilam province is part of the Zagrossedimentary structure and is completely covered with sedimentary rocks of different ages. In other words, there are no phenomena ofmagmatism andmetamorphism in the province. Therefore, the province's metal mineral reserves are negligible. There are, however, substantial non-metallic reserves ofgypsum,limestone, sandstone,dolomite, shale,bitumen,celestine, building stone and facade stone.[71] The province's gypsum is more than 99 percent pure and can be found in colossal amounts in Dehloran, Mehran and Bouli of Abdanan.Dehloran Gypsum Factory produces a premium quality product in the country.
The limestone reserves are also very significant in size and very high in purity (93-99.9%).Ilam Cement Factory, founded 1989 to use these mines, produces one of the finest cements in Iran and has won many national and international awards.[72] There are also large amounts ofcelestine discovered northwest of Dehloran.Celestine is used in oil well drilling industry.
The most valuable mineral in the province is bitumen. It is found asgilsonite and has a purity of more than 70%. Bitumen is found inEyvan,Dehloran andMalekshahi counties.[71] Ilam province is the 2nd province in the country in terms of production and reserves of bitumen.Eyvan has the largest reserves of bitumen in the province and is considered the largest bitumen mine in the Middle East. Ilam's bitumen reserves are estimated at 465,000 tons proven and likely up to 900,000 tons.[73] In some places in the province, liquid bitumen seeps to the ground and creates springs. "Dehloran Bitumen Spring" is a nationally registered natural monument in Iran.[74]
Salt stone has been recovered in Baloutestan area of Zarin Abad. There's also veins of blue salt excavated near Dashtalak (Mimak) and Majeen (Darreh Shahr).
Given the geology of the province, building stones can also found in large amounts; White and black marble stone have been discovered near the city of Ilam.
About 2.2 million tons of mineral were excavated in 2019 and Ilam's reserves are estimated at around 1 billion tons.[75]
The provincial department of education, in line with theMinistry of Education, supervises elementary and secondary education in the province. Higher education is supervised by theMinistry of Science, Research and Technology (Iran). As of 2019, there were 1778 schools and 112,503 students and 26,804 higher education students. As of 2016, the literacy rate in Ilam province was 89.1% for men and 80.6% for women.[3]
As of 2018, Ilam has one of the highest ratios of number of general practitioners to population in the country, ranking 2nd. There are 3.48GPs per 10,000 population in Ilam province, the average of the country being 2.37. Ilam also has the highest ratio of dentists in the country.[55]
Distribution of medical practitioners in Ilam province
Despite the positively looking statistics when compared with other provinces, the medical facilities and expertise are unequally distributed in Ilam province;Ilam, the capital, serves as the medical hub in the province, hosting majority of hospitals, medical laboratories and specialist: Six of the 12 hospitals in the province; 23 of the 60 medical laboratories; 18 out of the 19 medical nuclear institutes; 123 out of the 189 specialists; all the post-specialist and professional doctorates; 13 out of 14 pharmacologists; and, the only medical university in the province are in Ilam.[55][76]
The most prominent hospitals of the province are:[77]
Compared to the rest of the country, Ilam is under-developed in term of transportation. TheIlam Airport is the only airport in the province. With 2850 sorties, 215,799 passengers and around 1,416metric tons (1,561short tons),Ilam Airport ranked 21st in the country and 2nd to Kermanshah Airport in the western region.[78] Built in 1996, Ilam Airport has regular flights to Tehran and Mashhad. In 2016, the airport was upgraded to international status (controlled airspace) and started a weekly service toNajaf.[79]
Kabir Kouh Tunnel: 6,250 m (20,510 ft) long, making it the longest under-construction tunnel in Iran. It crosses under theKabir Kouh mountain near cities ofAbdanan andDarreh Shahr; and
Palayesh Gas Ilam Women's football team is the only team in Ilam province competing at the professional level, the Iranian Women's Football Premier League, also known asKowsar Women Football League.[81][82][83]
One of the most known athletic figures of Ilam province isMojtaba Maleki, a two times gold medalist in World Powerlifting Championships in 2017 and 2018. He also has more than ten Asian gold medals.[84] Maleki is the second person in the world to have squatted 500 kg raw with wraps.[85]
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^"معرفی شرکت سیمان ایلام" [Introduction of Ilam Cement Company].Ilam Cement Company (in Persian). Retrieved25 June 2020.
^Alsadat Haeri, Zohreh (2019).سالنامه آماري استان ايلام ۱۳۹۷ [Statistical Yearbook of Ilam Province, 1397]. Ilam, Iran: سازمان مدیریت و برنامهریزی استان ایلام.
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