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Highest unclimbed mountain

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Summit never reached by mountaineers

Mount Kailash is off limits due to religious beliefs.

Anunclimbed mountain is amountain peak that has not beenclimbed to the top. Determining which unclimbed peak is highest is often a matter of controversy. In some parts of the world, surveying and mapping are still unreliable. There are no comprehensive records of the routes of explorers, mountaineers, and local inhabitants. In some cases, even modern ascents by larger parties have been poorly documented and, with no universally recognized listing, the best that can be achieved in determining the world's highest unclimbed peaks is somewhat speculative. Most sources indicate thatGangkhar Puensum (7,570 metres, 24,840 ft) on theBhutan–China border is the tallestmountain in the world that has not been fully summited. Gangkhar Puensum has been off limits to climbers since 1994 when Bhutan prohibited all mountaineering above 6,000 m (20,000 ft) due to spiritual/religious beliefs.[1]

Unclimbed mountains are sometimes referred to asvirgin peaks. Many virgin peaks exist because no one has had access to that mountain due to its geographic isolation or political instability. Some are off limits due to religious beliefs in that country or region which hold that a certain mountain is sacred and should remain inviolate. Of those,Mount Kailash, a mountain in theNgari Prefecture,Tibet Autonomous Region of China, with an altitude of 6,638 m (21,778 ft), is one of the most prominent. It lies in theKailash Range (Gangdisê Mountains) of theTranshimalaya, in the western part of the Tibetan Plateau. Mount Kailash is considered sacred in four religions:Hinduism,Buddhism,Jainism andBon. Because of its status as asacred mountain there are annual pilgrimages to see it, but any climbing activities on it are forbidden.

Additionally, since climbing tall mountains is usually a major undertaking and climbers are attracted to climbing the tallest ones, lower peaks (even if they are very formidable) simply get less attention, and instead the taller peaks are summited again, by parties following a new route, or perhaps during the winter when conditions are generally more treacherous.[1]

Challenges in definition

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Definition of a mountain

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Figure 1. Vertical arrows show the topographic prominence of three peaks on an island. The dashed horizontal lines show the lowest contours that do not encircle higher peaks. Curved arrows point from a peak to its parent.

Many mountains, in addition to their highest point or peak, also have subpeaks. There is no universally accepted way of deciding when a subpeak is distinct enough to be classified as a mountain in its own right; therefore, any list of the world's mountains is subject to dispute. Thetopographic prominence of each apex and the general topography of the area both come into consideration when determining their status. Although objective criteria have been proposed, there is no widely agreed standard. In 1994, theInternational Climbing and Mountaineering Federation classified 82 mountain peaks in theAlps whose summits were at least 4,000 m (13,000 ft) above sea level and with at least 30 m (98 ft) of topographic prominence over any adjacentmountain pass orcol, as a distinct peak.[2]

Verification of unclimbed status

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It can be difficult sometimes to determine whether or not a mountain peak has been fully summited. Long before modern mountaineering commenced in the middle of the 19th century, evidence indicates that people did indeed travel up to the summits or near to the summits of major mountain peaks. Archaeological excavations in theAndes have shown that humans traveled up to 6,739 m (22,110 ft) in prehistoric times.[3] Permanent settlements as high as 4,500 m (14,800 ft) were established as far back as 12,000 years ago in the Andes.[4] In the Greater Himalaya region,Lhasa, in Tibet, sitting at 3,650 m (11,980 ft) has been permanently occupied since the 7th century and many smaller settlements across the Greater Himalaya thrive at elevations exceeding 4,000 m (13,000 ft).[5] With humans living at high elevations for many millennia, nearby peaks to such settlements may or may not have been summited at some point in the past. However, many regions away from settlements may never have been explored, especially since some high peaks in theGreater Ranges are so remote that they were unknown to local inhabitants until they were sighted by explorers.

The world's third-tallest peak,Kangchenjunga, has been summited a number of times, but on the1955 expedition the first climbers of the peak agreed to honor the wishes of locals and not set foot on the topmost part of the mountain. Succeeding mountaineering parties may (or may not) have followed this tradition. Similarly,Nanda Devi has also been climbed but the topmost summit was not ascended and the primary summit is now off limits to climbers.Machapuchare had only one summit attempt back in 1957 when climbers came within 150 m (490 ft) of the summit, but turned back to honourKing Mahendra's words, as he had permitted them to climb without stepping foot on the summit itself; Nepal then banned future attempts,[6] butBill Denz may have climbed the mountain illegally decades later.[7]

Gangkhar Puensum

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Main article:Gangkhar Puensum
Summit ofGangkhar Puensum from Gophu La pass,Bhutan

The mountain most widely claimed to be the highest unclimbed mountain in the world in terms ofelevation isGangkhar Puensum (7,570 m, 24,840 ft).[8] It is inBhutan, on or near the border withChina. In Bhutan, the climbing of mountains higher than 6,000 m (20,000 ft) has been prohibited since 1994.[9] The rationale for this prohibition is based on local customs that consider this and similar peaks to be the sacred homes of protective deities and spirits,[9] and the lack of high-altitude rescue resources from any locale closer thanIndia. The prohibition was further expanded in 2003 when mountaineering of any kind was disallowed entirely within Bhutan.[10] Gangkhar Puensum will likely remain unclimbed so long as the government of Bhutan prohibits it.[11]

Highest unclimbed non-prohibited peak

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A secondary summit of Kabru is one of the tallest that is unclimbed

It is unclear which is the highest unclimbed non-prohibited mountain. While some recognize only peaks with 100 m (330 ft)[citation needed] of topographical prominence as individual summits, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation was using a 30 m (98 ft) cutoff for determining individual summits (from 1994 to at least 2013[12][13]).[14][15] Unclimbed summits include one on the massif known asKabru (7,318 m or 24,009 ft prominencec. 100 m or 330 ft), andLabuche Kang III/East (7,250 m, 23,790 ft) with prominence of 570 m (1,870 ft).

Most prominent unclimbed peak

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Unclimbed candidates with high topographic prominence are by definition independent mountains, but some have relatively modest elevations. With such peaks, there is a greater possibility of undocumented ascents, perhaps occurring long ago.

As of mid-2014Sauyr Zhotasy (3,840 m or 12,600 ft, prominence of 3,252 m or 10,669 ft), the high point in theSaur Range on theborder between Kazakhstan and China, andMount Siple (3,110 m or 10,200 ft, prominence of 3,110 m or 10,200 ft) onSiple Island off the coast ofAntarctica, have no record of successful ascents. The unclimbed status of each of these peaks is difficult to confirm, although Mount Siple in particular is remote, uninhabited (and without any nearby habitation), and seldom visited. The most recent summiting of a formerly unclimbed most prominent mountain (with a prominence of 12,169 ft, 3,709 m) was on June 25, 2014 when Petter Bjørstad and four others climbed Mount Boising[16] in theFinisterre Range ofPapua New Guinea.

List of highest unclimbed peaks

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The following peaks, with a minimum prominence of 150 m (490 ft), were thought to be unclimbed as of 15 August 2024[update]. About 17 peaks of over 7000 m are thought to have been unclimbed.[17]

Mountains with prominence over 300 m inbold.

RankPeakHeightProminenceParentLocation
mftmft
1Gangkhar Puensum75702483629959826KangchenjungaBhutan/China
2Kunyang Chhish West735024114202663Kunyang ChhishPakistan
3Summa Ri730223957246807SkilbrumPakistan
4Lapche Kang III7250237865701870Lapche KangChina
5Apsarasas Kangri[a]7243237636071991Teram Kangri IIndia
6Tongshanjiabu72072364517575764Gangkhar PuensumBhutan/China
7Skyang Kangri West717423537194636Skyang KangriPakistan
8Chamar South716123494219719ChamarNepal
9Namcha Barwa II714623445166545Namcha BarwaChina
10Chongtar Kangri NE714523442205673Chongtar KangriChina
11Asapurna I714023425262860Annapurna INepal
12Urdok Kangri II7137234153211053Sia KangriPakistan/China
13Praqpa Kangri I7134234066682192SkilbrumPakistan
14Mandu Kangri? [cs;de][b]7127233836302067MasherbrumPakistan
15Annapurna Dakshin NE712623379151495Annapurna DakshinNepal
16Teri Kang7125233764541490TongshanjiabuBhutan/China
17Sanglung [ca;de]7095232789953264Namcha BarwaChina

See also

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Notes

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  1. ^Jurgalski considers the unclimbed peak known as "Apsarasis III" just higher than "Apsarasis I" (7241 m), which was climbed in 1976.
  2. ^While Jurgalski listed this peak, also known as Masherbrum Far West, as unclimbed in August 2018, there is a report of a first ascent in September 1988.[18]

References

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  1. ^abNuwer, Rachel (July 4, 2014)."The mountains we have never climbed". BBC. RetrievedFebruary 14, 2018.
  2. ^"Mountain Classification". UIAA-International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. RetrievedFebruary 14, 2018.
  3. ^Reinhard, Johan; Ceruti, Constanza (2010).Inca Rituals and Sacred Mountains: A Study of the World's Highest Archaeological Sites. Institute of Archaeology Press.ISBN 9781931745765.
  4. ^Ghose, Tia (October 23, 2014)."Oldest High-Altitude Human Settlement Discovered in Andes". Live Science. RetrievedMarch 14, 2018.
  5. ^Gill, Nicholas (February 8, 2016)."Where are the world's highest cities?".The Guardian. RetrievedMarch 14, 2018.
  6. ^Noyce, Wilfrid (1998) [1958].Climbing the fish's tail.Pilgrims Book House.ISBN 978-8173031007.OCLC 857085947. RetrievedSeptember 12, 2024.
  7. ^AnOther (July 22, 2016)."The Untouched Holy Mountain of Nepal".AnOther. RetrievedOctober 30, 2019.
  8. ^Itami, Tsuguyasu (October 2001)."Gankarpunzum & First Ascent Of Liankang Kangri"(PDF).Japanese Alpine News.1. RetrievedMarch 14, 2018.
  9. ^abVerschuuren, Bas (2016). "Nye within protected areas of Bhutan".Asian Sacred Natural Sites: Philosophy and practice in protected areas and conservation. Routledge.
  10. ^Mason, Colin (2014). "Nepal and Bhutan".A Short History of Asia. Macmillan International Higher Education.ISBN 9781137340634.
  11. ^Jennings, Ken (December 14, 2015)."What's The World's Highest Mountain That's Never Been Climbed". Conde Nast. RetrievedMarch 14, 2018.
  12. ^Podobnikar, Tomaž."Papers - Workshop in Borsa, Romania, 2010 - Mountains' Peaks Determination Supported with Shapes Analysis".Commission on Mountain Cartography. p. 113. RetrievedApril 9, 2025.
  13. ^"UIAA looking at how 8000 meter peaks are identified".Recreation Law. September 5, 2013. RetrievedApril 9, 2025.
  14. ^"Grades & Standards / Peak Classifications / 8000m Peaks".UIAA. October 2023. RetrievedApril 9, 2025.
  15. ^Bîca, Ioan (September 30, 2021)."TOPOGRAPHICAL PROMINENCE OF THE PEAKS FROM FĂGĂRAȘ MOUNTAINS (ROMANIA) WITH RELEVANCE TO THE MOUNTAIN ACTIVITIES. METHODOLOGICAL AND PRACTICAL ASPECTS".Studia Universitatis Babeş-Bolyai Educatio Artis Gymnasticae: 110.doi:10.24193/subbeag.66(3).28.ISSN 2065-9547.
  16. ^Kvamme, Lars."Først på toppen" (in Norwegian). Bergens Tidende. Archived fromthe original on August 18, 2016. RetrievedJuly 16, 2014.
  17. ^Jurgalski, Eberhald (August 17, 2018)."High Asia – All mountains and main peaks above 6750 m".
  18. ^"Masherbrum Far West".American Alpine Journal.31 (63).American Alpine Club: 250. 1989. RetrievedJune 21, 2025.
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