
Anunclimbed mountain is amountain peak that has not beenclimbed to the top. Determining which unclimbed peak is highest is often a matter of controversy. In some parts of the world, surveying and mapping are still unreliable. There are no comprehensive records of the routes of explorers, mountaineers, and local inhabitants. In some cases, even modern ascents by larger parties have been poorly documented and, with no universally recognized listing, the best that can be achieved in determining the world's highest unclimbed peaks is somewhat speculative. Most sources indicate thatGangkhar Puensum (7,570 metres, 24,840 ft) on theBhutan–China border is the tallestmountain in the world that has not been fully summited. Gangkhar Puensum has been off limits to climbers since 1994 when Bhutan prohibited all mountaineering above 6,000 m (20,000 ft) due to spiritual/religious beliefs.[1]
Unclimbed mountains are sometimes referred to asvirgin peaks. Many virgin peaks exist because no one has had access to that mountain due to its geographic isolation or political instability. Some are off limits due to religious beliefs in that country or region which hold that a certain mountain is sacred and should remain inviolate. Of those,Mount Kailash, a mountain in theNgari Prefecture,Tibet Autonomous Region of China, with an altitude of 6,638 m (21,778 ft), is one of the most prominent. It lies in theKailash Range (Gangdisê Mountains) of theTranshimalaya, in the western part of the Tibetan Plateau. Mount Kailash is considered sacred in four religions:Hinduism,Buddhism,Jainism andBon. Because of its status as asacred mountain there are annual pilgrimages to see it, but any climbing activities on it are forbidden.
Additionally, since climbing tall mountains is usually a major undertaking and climbers are attracted to climbing the tallest ones, lower peaks (even if they are very formidable) simply get less attention, and instead the taller peaks are summited again, by parties following a new route, or perhaps during the winter when conditions are generally more treacherous.[1]

Many mountains, in addition to their highest point or peak, also have subpeaks. There is no universally accepted way of deciding when a subpeak is distinct enough to be classified as a mountain in its own right; therefore, any list of the world's mountains is subject to dispute. Thetopographic prominence of each apex and the general topography of the area both come into consideration when determining their status. Although objective criteria have been proposed, there is no widely agreed standard. In 1994, theInternational Climbing and Mountaineering Federation classified 82 mountain peaks in theAlps whose summits were at least 4,000 m (13,000 ft) above sea level and with at least 30 m (98 ft) of topographic prominence over any adjacentmountain pass orcol, as a distinct peak.[2]
It can be difficult sometimes to determine whether or not a mountain peak has been fully summited. Long before modern mountaineering commenced in the middle of the 19th century, evidence indicates that people did indeed travel up to the summits or near to the summits of major mountain peaks. Archaeological excavations in theAndes have shown that humans traveled up to 6,739 m (22,110 ft) in prehistoric times.[3] Permanent settlements as high as 4,500 m (14,800 ft) were established as far back as 12,000 years ago in the Andes.[4] In the Greater Himalaya region,Lhasa, in Tibet, sitting at 3,650 m (11,980 ft) has been permanently occupied since the 7th century and many smaller settlements across the Greater Himalaya thrive at elevations exceeding 4,000 m (13,000 ft).[5] With humans living at high elevations for many millennia, nearby peaks to such settlements may or may not have been summited at some point in the past. However, many regions away from settlements may never have been explored, especially since some high peaks in theGreater Ranges are so remote that they were unknown to local inhabitants until they were sighted by explorers.
The world's third-tallest peak,Kangchenjunga, has been summited a number of times, but on the1955 expedition the first climbers of the peak agreed to honor the wishes of locals and not set foot on the topmost part of the mountain. Succeeding mountaineering parties may (or may not) have followed this tradition. Similarly,Nanda Devi has also been climbed but the topmost summit was not ascended and the primary summit is now off limits to climbers.Machapuchare had only one summit attempt back in 1957 when climbers came within 150 m (490 ft) of the summit, but turned back to honourKing Mahendra's words, as he had permitted them to climb without stepping foot on the summit itself; Nepal then banned future attempts,[6] butBill Denz may have climbed the mountain illegally decades later.[7]
The mountain most widely claimed to be the highest unclimbed mountain in the world in terms ofelevation isGangkhar Puensum (7,570 m, 24,840 ft).[8] It is inBhutan, on or near the border withChina. In Bhutan, the climbing of mountains higher than 6,000 m (20,000 ft) has been prohibited since 1994.[9] The rationale for this prohibition is based on local customs that consider this and similar peaks to be the sacred homes of protective deities and spirits,[9] and the lack of high-altitude rescue resources from any locale closer thanIndia. The prohibition was further expanded in 2003 when mountaineering of any kind was disallowed entirely within Bhutan.[10] Gangkhar Puensum will likely remain unclimbed so long as the government of Bhutan prohibits it.[11]

It is unclear which is the highest unclimbed non-prohibited mountain. While some recognize only peaks with 100 m (330 ft)[citation needed] of topographical prominence as individual summits, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation was using a 30 m (98 ft) cutoff for determining individual summits (from 1994 to at least 2013[12][13]).[14][15] Unclimbed summits include one on the massif known asKabru (7,318 m or 24,009 ft prominencec. 100 m or 330 ft), andLabuche Kang III/East (7,250 m, 23,790 ft) with prominence of 570 m (1,870 ft).
Unclimbed candidates with high topographic prominence are by definition independent mountains, but some have relatively modest elevations. With such peaks, there is a greater possibility of undocumented ascents, perhaps occurring long ago.
As of mid-2014Sauyr Zhotasy (3,840 m or 12,600 ft, prominence of 3,252 m or 10,669 ft), the high point in theSaur Range on theborder between Kazakhstan and China, andMount Siple (3,110 m or 10,200 ft, prominence of 3,110 m or 10,200 ft) onSiple Island off the coast ofAntarctica, have no record of successful ascents. The unclimbed status of each of these peaks is difficult to confirm, although Mount Siple in particular is remote, uninhabited (and without any nearby habitation), and seldom visited. The most recent summiting of a formerly unclimbed most prominent mountain (with a prominence of 12,169 ft, 3,709 m) was on June 25, 2014 when Petter Bjørstad and four others climbed Mount Boising[16] in theFinisterre Range ofPapua New Guinea.
The following peaks, with a minimum prominence of 150 m (490 ft), were thought to be unclimbed as of 15 August 2024[update]. About 17 peaks of over 7000 m are thought to have been unclimbed.[17]
Mountains with prominence over 300 m inbold.
| Rank | Peak | Height | Prominence | Parent | Location | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| m | ft | m | ft | ||||
| 1 | Gangkhar Puensum | 7570 | 24836 | 2995 | 9826 | Kangchenjunga | Bhutan/China |
| 2 | Kunyang Chhish West | 7350 | 24114 | 202 | 663 | Kunyang Chhish | Pakistan |
| 3 | Summa Ri | 7302 | 23957 | 246 | 807 | Skilbrum | Pakistan |
| 4 | Lapche Kang III | 7250 | 23786 | 570 | 1870 | Lapche Kang | China |
| 5 | Apsarasas Kangri[a] | 7243 | 23763 | 607 | 1991 | Teram Kangri I | India |
| 6 | Tongshanjiabu | 7207 | 23645 | 1757 | 5764 | Gangkhar Puensum | Bhutan/China |
| 7 | Skyang Kangri West | 7174 | 23537 | 194 | 636 | Skyang Kangri | Pakistan |
| 8 | Chamar South | 7161 | 23494 | 219 | 719 | Chamar | Nepal |
| 9 | Namcha Barwa II | 7146 | 23445 | 166 | 545 | Namcha Barwa | China |
| 10 | Chongtar Kangri NE | 7145 | 23442 | 205 | 673 | Chongtar Kangri | China |
| 11 | Asapurna I | 7140 | 23425 | 262 | 860 | Annapurna I | Nepal |
| 12 | Urdok Kangri II | 7137 | 23415 | 321 | 1053 | Sia Kangri | Pakistan/China |
| 13 | Praqpa Kangri I | 7134 | 23406 | 668 | 2192 | Skilbrum | Pakistan |
| 14 | Mandu Kangri? [cs;de][b] | 7127 | 23383 | 630 | 2067 | Masherbrum | Pakistan |
| 15 | Annapurna Dakshin NE | 7126 | 23379 | 151 | 495 | Annapurna Dakshin | Nepal |
| 16 | Teri Kang | 7125 | 23376 | 454 | 1490 | Tongshanjiabu | Bhutan/China |
| 17 | Sanglung [ca;de] | 7095 | 23278 | 995 | 3264 | Namcha Barwa | China |