Harper's Bazaar (stylized asHarper's BAZAAR) is an American monthly women's fashion magazine. Bazaar has been published in New York City since November 2, 1867, originally as a weekly publication entitledHarper's Bazar.[2] Originally published byHarper & Brothers, since 1913, the magazine has been owned and published byHearst.
The magazine is the world's oldest operating women's fashion magazine,[3] and one of the first fashion magazines to be published in the United States.[4][5] Its name change toHarper's Bazaar was filed on December 30, 1930.[2] However, the first magazine under the name was November 1929.[6]
Harper's Bazaar is an American women's fashion magazine. The magazine was founded in 1867 byHarper & Brothers asHarper's Bazar (and has since been operating asHarper's Bazaar since 1929); it is the oldest fashion magazine still in operation and was based off and originally the American version of the German publicationDer Bazar.[7]
The magazine is a monthly publication, published ten times per year with merged June/July and December/January issues.
According to the publications current editor-in-chief, Samira Nasr, "Harper's BAZAAR uses fashion as a way to explore the forces shaping culture today and to tell the most urgent stories of the moment."[8] Whilst the publisher and owner,Hearst, describes it as "the style resource for women at every age, showcasing visionary stylists, photographers and designers with authority and insider insight."[9]
The magazine has achieved notability for its innovative art direction under art directorAlexey Brodovitch (who worked with the publication from 1934 to 1958).[10]Norman Norell called it "a photographer's magazine" in reference to its innovative photography.[10] Along with this the reinvention of the magazine under editor-in-chiefLiz Tilberis, and art directorFabien Baron who wanted to make it into ''the most beautiful fashion magazine in the world.''[11][12] Is regarded as turning it back into a fashion publishing industry powerhouse.[11] The magazine is also considered as the long-time rival toVogue.[13]
The journal had been inspired by the GermanDer Bazar (meaning "The Bazaar"), which was a weekly fashion journal published from Berlin, Germany.[7]Fletcher Harper suggested the idea of an American edition of the publication, in partnership with the German original.[7] However, his brothers (James and Joseph Harper) believed that they were already too busy with their other publications (Harper's Monthly andHarper's Weekly) and that they would not be able to launch a new publication.[23] Fletcher then decided to publish the magazine himself however upon hearing this the brothers changed their minds and decided to publish it together.[24]
Front cover illustrating hairstyles, Vol. I, No. 49 (October 3, 1868)
The publication debuted on November 2, 1867,[25] and was published byHarper & Brothers, based in New York City and edited byMary Louise Booth.[7] The magazine was published in a folio tabloid-size format and published weekly, with the subtitle of "A Repository of Fashion, Pleasure, and Instruction."[7] During this timeHarper's Bazar was able to stay ahead of other American publications likeGodey's Lady's Book andPeterson's,[7] which had to copy their illustrations from French magazines and re-engrave theprinting plates of the latest fashions;[7] however, due to the partnership withDer Bazar, the magazine would be sent theelectrotypes of the original printing plates which lead toHarper's Bazar publishing the latest illustrations at the same time as the European journals which was months ahead of the other American publications.[7][26][23] This gaveHarper's Bazar an edge above the other American publications for many years.[24]
Bazar's circulation was estimated at reaching between 70,000 and 100,000 within the first six weeks of circulation.[7]
Bazar under Mary L. Booth (who stayed as the editor of the publication until her death in 1889) has been described as a "covert" voice for women's rights,[7] with articles aboutwomen's suffrage and equal rights.[7] However, Booth herself denied that the magazine had any political agenda or attempted influence.[7] Booth was succeeded by Margaret Elizabeth Sangster who stayed as editor-in-chief until 1899; she left and was replaced byElizabeth Jordan when the publication was reorganised.[7]
In 1901 the magazine's format made the transition from a weekly to a monthly magazine, and changed its format/size, partly because of the publisher's financial struggles.[23][7]
Sale to Hearst, and rebranding toHarper's Bazaar (1913–1934)
Hearst purchased the magazine for Harper & Brothers in 1913; before Hearst's purchase the magazine had steadily been losing money for many years.[25][23] Under Hearst ownership the magazine was turned into a thickglossy magazine,[23] and had a distinct editorial change from a Harper's publication to a Hearst publication.[7]
Sell left the magazine in 1926 and Charles Hanson Towne became editor-in-chief; under his tenure a second "a" was added to "Bazar" and the publication was renamed toHarper's Bazaar from November 1929.[23][6] Arthur Samuels then replaced Towne in 1929.[7]
Carmel Snow became fashion editor in 1932,[7] joiningHarper's Bazaar from its rivalVogue which caused a stir in the fashion industry.[23] Snow felt like she was constrained atVogue, withEdna Woolman Chase (editor-in-chief ofVogue) having no intentions to leave her position.[7] Edna Woolman Chase andCondé Nast (publisher ofVogue) believed her exit as "the ultimate betrayal" and Nast never spoke to Snow again.[17]
One of Snow's first influential editorials was created in 1933. Snow and the Hungarian photojournalistMartin Munkácsi went to a windswept and coldLong Island beach for a swimwear fashion shoot which was Munkácsi's first fashion story. A photo was taken featuring model Lucile Brokaw who ran towards the camera which became part of fashion-magazine history, with most fashion photoshoots previously featuring still mannequin-like models shot in a studio; the photo became a turning point forfashion photography.[17]
Snow became the magazine's editor-in-chief in 1934 and Samuels joinedHouse Beautiful.[17] Snow's approach was more hands on than Samuels who was more distant to his employees, preferring a "closed-door" approach.[7] Following a design exhibition at theArt Directors Club, Snow was introduced to the work of Russian artistAlexey Brodovitch who she offered the art director role that evening.[17] Brodovitch revolutionized magazine design and became "virtually the model for the modern magazine art director".[7] He also introduced theDidot typeface to the magazine, which then became the logo font and would be copied with notable publications includingVogue,L'Officiel, andElle using Didot as their logo typeface.[30] Brodovitch is also remembered for his use of white space and cropped layouts.[31]Truman Capote said about Brodovitch, "WhatDom Pérignon was to champagne ... so [Brodovitch] has been to ... photographic design and editorial layout."[32]
Toni Frissell, published inHarper's Bazaar, February 1947
In late 1935, Snow saw a youngDiana Vreeland dancing at theSt. Regis Hotel bar in a lace dress byChanel and the day after commissioned her to write a column called "Why Don't You... ?" for the magazine.[17] A typical suggestion: "Why don't you ... wear, like theDuchess of Kent, three enormous diamond stars arranged in your hair in front?." She was immortalized inFunny Face where she inspired the character Maggie Prescott (played byKay Thompson).[34] Richard Avedon was also immortalized in the film, inspiring the character Dick Avery (played byFred Astaire).[35] Avedon shot many iconic photographs for the magazine (working from 1945 as a staff photographer) including models roller skating in thePlace de la Concorde,[36]Dovima with circus elephants,[37] and more glamourous editorials with large sets.[38]
Guadeloupean model and dancerAdy Fidelin became the first black model to be featured in a major American fashion magazine when she featured inHarper's Bazaar in September 1937.[39]
Following the Second World WarJunior Bazaar was launched, aiming to be a competitor toMademoiselle andSeventeen.[23] However, in 1948 it was merged intoHarper's Bazaar with Snow believing that she was diverting too much of her energy to the publication.[23]
Gleb Derujinsky joined the magazine in 1950 (working with the magazine till 1968) and produced some of the magazine's most iconic images.[40] Derujinsky was a pioneer juxtaposing haute couture dresses with deserts, junkyards, fairgrounds and airports, with the comparison between Avedon and Derujinsky being "Avedon shot dresses and clothes, Gleb shot women living in them".[40]
In 1957 Derujinsky traveled across the world withNena von Schlebrügge, and Ruth Neumann in co-operation withPan Am for the inauguration of theBoeing 707.[41] They shot in eleven countries in 28 days.[41]
Brodovitch (who struggled with alcoholism) was fired in 1958[42] and his wife died the following year, all of which lead to a severe depression and following a 1967 hip injury he moved to the south of France where he died in 1971.[42]
The February 1959 issue featured an editorial with Chinese-American modelChina Machado (often erroneously reported as the cover, which is actually the December 1959 issue withDovima); she was one of the first people of colour to be featured in a major American fashion magazine.[43] The publisher (Hearst) was against the inclusion of Machado believing that Southern subscribers would quit their subscriptions.[44] She later became the magazine's senior fashion editor and then fashion director.[44]
The Nancy White era circulation peaked in 1969 with 442,220 copies circulated.[45]
Nonnie Moore was hired as fashion editor in 1980, having served in the same post atMademoiselle.[46]The New York Times noticed the changes she made atHarper's Bazaar, highlighting how the magazine had been "looking a little dowdy", but that Moore had "noticeably sharpened the magazine's fashion point of view" by showing "brighter, younger and more stylish", complimenting her use of "young and exciting fashion photographers", such asOliviero Toscani.[47]
Harper's Bazaar Arabia was launched in March 2007 and is published by ITP Media Group and based inDubai.[73] The brand also publishesHarper's Bazaar Art,Interiors andJunior titles.
In July 2018Harper's Bazaar Arabia became the first magazine to have a Saudi Arabian woman on the cover when they featuredTaleedah Tamer as their July/August cover girl.[74]
Harper's Bazaar Australia is based in Sydney. The magazine originally ran from 1984 to 1990. The magazine was relaunched in March 1998 withNicole Kidman on the cover. The magazine's current editor is Jillian Davison, who started the position in 2021.
In July 2020 the magazine's publisherBauer Media Australia shuttered the publication citing declining advertising revenue and travel restrictions caused by theCOVID-19 pandemic.[75][76] The magazine resumed publication in September 2021 asHarper's Bazaar Australia/New Zealand and is now published by Switzer Media and Publishing.[77]
Harper's Bazaar Singapore published its firstSingapore edition of the magazine on November 4, 2001. It is published bySPH Magazines.
In 2015,Harper's Bazaar Singapore launched its website.[82]
Harper's Bazaar Singapore has won several awards, including a MPAS Awards 2018 for Fashion Media of the Year (Gold).[83][84] The magazine was also the media partner for the first four seasons ofAsia's Next Top Model.
Kenneth Goh has been the editor-in-chief of the magazine since 2014.[85]
TheHarper's Bazaar UK edition was first published in London in 1929.[86] In November 1970, New York City-based Hearst Communications amalgamated it withQueen magazine (which dated from 1862) to formHarpers & Queen. The magazine was widely perceived to be focused on British "high society" and the lives of socialites and the British aristocracy. In March 2006, it was renamedHarper's Bazaar, bringing it in line with its international sister titles, and repositioned as a more celebrity-oriented fashion magazine.Harper's Bazaar UK has a long history of literary contributions from leading writers, includingEvelyn Waugh,Henry James,Thomas Hardy, andVirginia Woolf. It maintains that connection today, with recent articles written byAli Smith,Jeanette Winterson, andMargaret Atwood, and runs its own Literary Salon.
The magazine was founded inHo Chi Minh City on June 27, 2011. The Vietnamese version ofHarper's Bazaar is calledPhong cách Harper's Bazaar as a result of mergingHarper's Bazaar andPhong cách.[94]
Harper's Bazaar Vietnam was also a co-sponsor of the first season ofProject Runway Vietnam (local title:Nhà thiết kế thời trang Việt Nam).
In 2014,Harper's Bazaar Vietnam launched its website.[95]
^Minot, Lacey (March 1, 2020). "Harper's Bazaar, premier magazine de mode".West 86th: A Journal of Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture.27 (1):137–142.doi:10.1086/711201.ISSN2153-5531.S2CID225086128.
^Shaw, Ping (1999). "Internationalization of the women's magazine industry in Taiwan context, process and influence".Asian Journal of Communication.9 (2):17–38.doi:10.1080/01292989909359623.
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