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Hammersmith

Coordinates:51°29′34″N0°13′22″W / 51.4928°N 0.2229°W /51.4928; -0.2229
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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
District of London, England

This article is about the district in London. For other uses, seeHammersmith (disambiguation).

Human settlement in England
Hammersmith
Lyric Theatre, and the fountains in Lyric Square
Hammersmith is located in Greater London
Hammersmith
Hammersmith
Location withinGreater London
Population95,996 (2020)[1]
OS grid referenceTQ233786
• Charing Cross4.3 mi (6.9 km) ENE
London borough
Ceremonial countyGreater London
Region
CountryEngland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townLONDON
Postcode districtW6, W14
Dialling code020
PoliceMetropolitan
FireLondon
AmbulanceLondon
UK Parliament
London Assembly
List of places
UK
England
London
51°29′34″N0°13′22″W / 51.4928°N 0.2229°W /51.4928; -0.2229

Hammersmith is a district ofWest London, England, 4.3 miles (6.9 km) southwest ofCharing Cross. It is the administrative centre of theLondon Borough of Hammersmith and Fulham, and identified in theLondon Plan as one of 35 major centres inGreater London.

It is bordered byShepherd's Bush to the north,Kensington to the east,Chiswick to the west, andFulham to the south, all on the north bank of theRiver Thames. The area is one of west London's main commercial and employment centres, and has for some decades been a major centre of London'sPolish community. It is a major transport hub forwest London, with twoLondon Underground stations and a bus and coach station atHammersmith Broadway.Hammersmith Bridge, opened in 1827, was the first suspension bridge across the River Thames.

Famous residents of Hammersmith include the 17th century poetJohn Milton. It features in literature in works such asCharles Dickens'sGreat Expectations andWilliam Morris'sNews from Nowhere. In music, it appears inGustav Holst'sHammersmith for military band and hisBrook Green Suite. In the 20th century, many actors lived in the borough.

Toponymy

[edit]

Hammersmith may mean "(Place with) a hammer smithy or forge",[2] although, in 1839,Thomas Faulkner proposed that the name derived from twoOld English words:Ham fromham and the remainder fromhythe, alluding to Hammersmith's riverside location.[3] In 1922, Gover proposed that the prefix was a personal name, Heahmaer or Hæmar, and stating that the suffix must be Old English from -myðe,[4] meaning the junction of two rivers, asHammersmith Creek merged with the Thames here.[5]: 36  The earliest spelling is Hamersmyth in 1294, with alternative spellings of Hameresmithe in 1312, Hamyrsmyth in 1535, and Hammersmith 1675.[6]

History

[edit]
Hammersmith Town Hall, a Grade II listed building

The district was a chapelry of the ancient parish ofFulham, but became a fully independent parish in 1631.[7] In the early 1660s, Hammersmith's first parish church, which later becameSt Paul's, was built bySir Nicholas Crispe who ran the brickworks in Hammersmith.[8] It contained a monument to Crispe as well as a bronze bust ofKing Charles I byHubert Le Sueur.[9] The church was completely rebuilt between 1882 and 1891.[10]

In 1745, two Scots,James Lee and Lewis Kennedy, established theVineyard Nursery, over six acres devoted to landscaping plants. During the next hundred and fifty years the nursery introduced many new plants to England, includingfuchsia and the standardrose tree.[11][12]

1804 saw the trial of Francis Smith for the murder of Thomas Millwood in Beaver Lane, Hammersmith. Called theHammersmith Ghost murder case, it set a unique standard in English legal history.[13]

In 1868, Hammersmith was the name of a parish, and of a suburban district, within thehundred of Ossulstone, in the county ofMiddlesex.[14] Major industrial sites included theOsram lamp factory atBrook Green, theJ. Lyons factory (which at one time employed 30,000 people). During bothWorld Wars,Waring & Gillow's furniture factory, inCambridge Grove, became the site of aircraft manufacture.[15]

Hammersmith Borough Council had provided the borough with electricity since the early twentieth century fromHammersmith power station. Uponnationalisation of the electricity industry in 1948 ownership passed to theBritish Electricity Authority and later to theCentral Electricity Generating Board. Electricity connections to thenational grid rendered the 20 megawatt (MW)coal-fired power station redundant. It closed in 1965; in its final year of operation it delivered 5,462MWh of electricity to the borough.[16]

Economy

[edit]
King Street

Hammersmith is located at the confluence of one of the arterial routes out of central London (theA4) with several local feeder roads and a bridge over the Thames. The focal point of the district is the commercial centre (theHammersmith Broadway centre) at this confluence; it houses a shopping centre, bus station, anUnderground station and an office complex.[17]

Stretching about 750 m (820 yd) westwards from this centre isKing Street, Hammersmith's main shopping street. Named afterJohn King, Bishop of London,[18] it contains a second shopping centre (Livat Hammersmith),[19] thetown hall,[20] theLyric Theatre, and thePolish community centre.[21] To the east of the town centre is theArk, an office complex to the south of theflyover which traverses the area.[22]

Charing Cross Hospital on Fulham Palace Road is a large multi-disciplinaryNHS hospital with accident & emergency and teaching departments run by theImperial College School of Medicine.[23]

Architecture

[edit]
The Ark and Hammersmith flyover, carrying theA4 road westwards out of London

"The Ark" office building, designed by British architect Ralph Erskine and completed in 1992, has some resemblance to the hull of a sailing ship.[24] Hammersmith Bridge Road Surgery was designed by Guy Greenfield.[25]22 St Peter's Square, the former Royal Chiswick Laundry andIsland Records HQ, has been converted to architects' studios and offices byLifschutz Davidson Sandilands. It has aHammersmith SocietyConservation award plaque (2009)[26] and has been included in tours in Architecture Week.[27]Several of Hammersmith's pubs arelisted buildings, including theBlack Lion,[28]The Dove,[29]The George,[30]The Hop Poles,[31] theHope and Anchor,[32] theSalutation Inn[33] andThe Swan,[34] as are Hammersmith's twoparish churches,St Paul's[35] (the town's original church, rebuilt in the 1890s) andSt Peter's, built in the 1820s.[36]

Culture and entertainment

[edit]
The Dove public house

Riverside Studios is a cinema, performance space, bar and cafe. Originally film studios, Riverside Studios were used by theBBC from 1954 to 1975 for television productions.[37] TheLyric Hammersmith Theatre is just off King Street.Hammersmith Apollo concert hall and theatre (formerly the Carling Hammersmith Apollo, the Hammersmith Odeon, and before that the Gaumont Cinema) is just south of the gyratory.The formerHammersmith Palais nightclub has been demolished and the site reused as student accommodation.[38]There is an Irish Cultural Centre on Black's Road.[39] ThePolish Social and Cultural Association is on King Street. It contains a theatre, an art gallery and several restaurants. Its library has one of the largest collections of Polish-language books outside Poland.[40][41][42][43][44]

The Dove is a riverside pub with what theGuinness Book of Records listed as the smallest bar room in the world, in 2016 surviving as a small space on the right of the bar.[45] The pub was frequented by the novelistsErnest Hemingway andGraham Greene; the poetJames Thomson lodged and likely wroteRule Britannia here.[46] The narrow alley in which it stands is the only remnant of the riverside village of Hammersmith, the bulk of which was demolished in the 1930s.Furnivall Gardens, which lies to the east, covers the site ofHammersmith Creek and the High Bridge.[47]

Leisure activity also takes place along Hammersmith's pedestrianised riverside, home to the pubs of Lower Mall, rowing clubs and the riverside park ofFurnival Gardens. Hammersmith has a municipal park,Ravenscourt Park, to the west of the centre. Its facilities include tennis courts, a basketball court, a bowling lawn, a paddling pool, and playgrounds.[48]

Lower Mall from the river at low tide, withHammersmith Bridge on the right

Hammersmith is the historical home of theWest London Penguin Swimming and Water Polo Club, formerly known as theHammersmith Penguin Swimming Club.[49]Hammersmith Chess Club has been active in the borough since it was formed in 1962. It was initially based inWestcott Lodge, later moving to St Paul's Church, then toBlythe House and now Lytton Hall, nearWest Kensington tube station.[50]

Transport

[edit]

The area is on the main A4trunk road heading west from central London towards theM4 motorway andHeathrow Airport. The A4, a busy commuter route, passes over the area's main road junction, Hammersmith Gyratory System, on a long viaduct, theHammersmith Flyover.[51]Hammersmith Bridge closed in August 2020 to pedestrians, cyclists and road traffic, severing the link withBarnes in the southwest. Its cast iron pedestals that hold the suspension system in place had become unsafe.[52]

The centre of Hammersmith is served by twoLondon Underground stations named Hammersmith:one is served by theHammersmith & City[53] andCircle lines andthe other, in the Broadway shopping centre, is served by thePiccadilly andDistrict lines,[54] and it houses a major bus station.[55]

Hammersmith Bridge

[edit]
Main article:Hammersmith Bridge
Repair works to the bridge footings, showing air-conditioning and sensors

The first Hammersmith Bridge was designed byWilliam Tierney Clark and opened in 1827 and was the firstsuspension bridge crossing theRiver Thames. It was redesigned byJoseph Bazalgette, and reopened in 1887.[8][56] In August 2020, it closed to pedestrians, cyclists and road traffic as the cast iron pedestals that hold the suspension system in place became unsafe. Work began to improve the structural integrity of the bridge in 2022.[52]

In literature and music

[edit]

Hammersmith features inCharles Dickens'sGreat Expectations as the home of the Pocket family. Pip resides with the Pockets in their house by the river and goes boating on the river.[57] The textile designerWilliam Morris, who became a Hammersmith resident,[58] wrote the utopian 1890 novelNews from Nowhere about a journey up the river from Hammersmith towardsOxford.[59]

In 1930,Gustav Holst composedHammersmith, a work for military band (later rewritten for orchestra), reflecting his impressions of the area, having lived across the river inBarnes for nearly forty years.[60] It begins with a haunting musical depiction of the River Thames flowing underneath Hammersmith Bridge. Holst taught music atSt Paul's Girls' School and composed many of his most famous works there, including hisThe Planets suite. A music room in the school is named after him.[61] Holst dedicatedHammersmith: "To the Author of "The Water Gypsies".[62] In 1933 he wrote another work that references the area, hisBrook Green Suite, for the school, which is on Brook Green.[63]

Notable people

[edit]

17th century

[edit]
John Milton, poet

18th century

[edit]

19th century

[edit]
Eric Gill, typographer
Gustav Holst, composer

1900–1945

[edit]
Rosalind Franklin, chemist

1946–2000

[edit]
Joe Calzaghe, boxer
Rosamund Pike, actor

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
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