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Hamburg

Coordinates:53°33′N10°00′E / 53.550°N 10.000°E /53.550; 10.000
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
City and state in Germany
This article is about the city in Germany. For other uses, seeHamburg (disambiguation).

Municipality and state in Germany
Hamburg
Hamborg (Low German)
Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg
Hamburg highlighted in Germany
Hamburg highlighted in Germany
Hamburg is located in Germany
Hamburg
Hamburg
Show map of Germany
Hamburg is located in Europe
Hamburg
Hamburg
Show map of Europe
Coordinates:53°33′N10°00′E / 53.550°N 10.000°E /53.550; 10.000
CountryGermany
Government
 • BodyHamburg Parliament
 • First MayorPeter Tschentscher (SPD)
 • Second MayorKatharina Fegebank (Greens)
 • Governing partiesSPD /Greens
 • Bundesrat votes3 (of 69)
 • Bundestag seats16 (of 736)
Area
 • City
755.22 km2 (291.59 sq mi)
Population
 (2023-12-31)[2]
 • City
1,964,021
 • Density2,600/km2 (6,700/sq mi)
 • Urban
2,496,600[1]
 • Metro
5,425,628
Demonym(s)German:Hamburger (male),Hamburgerin (female)
English:Hamburger(s),[3][4] Hamburgian(s)
GDP
 • City€144.220 billion (2022)
 • Per capita€76,910 (2022)
Time zoneUTC+1 (Central (CET))
 • Summer (DST)UTC+2 (Central (CEST))
Postal code(s)
20001–21149, 22001–22769
Area code(s)040
ISO 3166 codeDE-HH
Vehicle registration
  • HH(1906–1945; again since 1956)
  • MGH(1945)
  • H(1945–1947)
  • HG(1947)
  • BH(1948–1956)
NUTS RegionDE6
HDI (2021)0.972[6]
very high ·1st of 16
Websitehamburg.com

Hamburg (/ˈhæmbɜːrɡ/;[7]German:[ˈhambʊʁk],[8]locally also[ˈhambʊɪ̯ç];Low Saxon:Hamborg[ˈhambɔːç]), officially theFree and Hanseatic City of Hamburg,[9][a] is thesecond-largest city inGermany afterBerlin and6th-largest in theEuropean Union with a population of over 1.9 million.[10][1] TheHamburg Metropolitan Region has a population of over 5.1 million and is theeighth-largest metropolitan region by GDP in the European Union.

At the southern tip of theJutland Peninsula, Hamburg stands on the branchingRiver Elbe at the head of a 110 km (68 mi)estuary to theNorth Sea, on the mouth of theAlster andBille. Hamburg is one of Germany's three city-states alongside Berlin andBremen, and is surrounded bySchleswig-Holstein to the north andLower Saxony to the south. ThePort of Hamburg is Germany's largest and Europe'sthird-largest, afterRotterdam andAntwerp. Thelocal dialect is a variant ofLow Saxon.

The official name reflectsHamburg's history as a member of the medievalHanseatic League and afree imperial city of theHoly Roman Empire. Before the 1871unification of Germany, it was a fullysovereigncity state, and before 1919 formed a civic republicheaded constitutionally by a class of hereditaryGrand Burghers orHanseaten. Beset by disasters such as theGreat Fire of Hamburg,North Sea flood of 1962 and military conflicts includingWorld War II bombing raids, the city has managed to recover and emerge wealthier after each catastrophe.

Major regional broadcasterNDR, the printing and publishing firmGruner + Jahr and the newspapersDer Spiegel andDie Zeit are based in the city. Hamburg is the seat of Germany's oldeststock exchange and theworld's oldest merchant bank,Berenberg Bank. Media, commercial, logistical, and industrial firms with significant locations in the city include multinationalsAirbus,Blohm + Voss,Aurubis,Beiersdorf,Lufthansa andUnilever. Hamburg is also a major Europeanscience, research, and education hub, with several universities and institutions, including the Deutsches Elektronen-Synchrotron LaboratoryDESY. The city enjoys a very high quality of living, being ranked 28th in the 2024 Mercer Quality of Living Survey.[11]

Hamburg hosts specialists in world economics and international law, includingconsular and diplomatic missions such as theInternational Tribunal for the Law of the Sea, theEU-LAC Foundation, and theUNESCO Institute for Lifelong Learning, multipartite international political conferences and summits such asEurope and China and theG20. Former German chancellorsHelmut Schmidt andAngela Merkel were both born in Hamburg. The formerMayor of Hamburg,Olaf Scholz, has been the current German chancellor since December 2021.

Hamburg is a major international and domestictourist destination. TheSpeicherstadt andKontorhausviertel were declaredWorld Heritage Sites byUNESCO in 2015.[12] Hamburg's rivers and canals are crossed by around 2,500 bridges, making it the city with the highest number of bridges in Europe,[13] and with5 of the world's 29 tallest churches standing in Hamburg, it is also the city with the highest number of churches surpassing 100 metres (330 ft) worldwide. Aside from its rich architectural heritage, the city is also home to notable cultural venues such as theElbphilharmonie andLaeiszhalle concert halls. It gave birth to movements likeHamburger Schule and paved the way for bands includingthe Beatles. Hamburg is also known for severaltheatres and a variety of musical shows.St. Pauli'sReeperbahn is among the best-known European red light districts.

History

[edit]
Main article:History of Hamburg
For a chronological guide, seeTimeline of Hamburg.

Origins

[edit]

Claudius Ptolemy (2nd century AD) reported the first name for the vicinity asTreva.[14]

Etymology

[edit]

The nameHamburg comes from the first permanent building on the site, a castle which the EmperorCharlemagne ordered constructed in AD 808. It rose on rocky terrain in a marsh between theRiver Alster and theRiver Elbe as a defence againstSlavic incursion, and acquired the nameHammaburg,burg meaning castle or fort. The origin of theHamma term remains uncertain,[15] but its location is estimated to be at the site of today'sHammaburgplatz.[16][17]

Medieval Hamburg

[edit]
Hamburg in 1150

In 834 CE, Hamburg was designated as the seat of abishopric. The first bishop,Ansgar, became known as the Apostle of the North. Two years later, Hamburg was united withBremen as theBishopric of Hamburg-Bremen.[18]

Hamburg was destroyed and occupied several times. In 845, 600Viking ships sailed up theRiver Elbe and destroyed Hamburg, at that time a town of around 500 inhabitants.[18] In 1030, KingMieszko II Lambert ofPoland burned down the city.Valdemar II of Denmark raided and occupied Hamburg in 1201 and in 1214. TheBlack Death killed at least 60% of the population in 1350.Hamburg experienced several great fires in the medieval period.[19]

In 1189, by imperial charter,Frederick I "Barbarossa" granted Hamburg the status of aFree Imperial City and tax-free access (orfree-trade zone) up the Lower Elbe into the North Sea. In 1265, an allegedly forged letter was presented to or by the Rath of Hamburg.[20] This charter, along with Hamburg's proximity to the main trade routes of theNorth Sea andBaltic Sea, quickly made it a major port in Northern Europe. Its trade alliance withLübeck in 1241 marks the origin and core of the powerful Hanseatic League of trading cities. On 8 November 1266, a contract betweenHenry III and Hamburg's traders allowed them to establish ahanse in London. This was the first time in history that the wordhanse was used for the trading guild of theHanseatic League.[21]In 1270, the solicitor of thesenate of Hamburg,Jordan vonBoitzenburg, wrote the first description of civil, criminal and procedural law for a city in Germany in the German language, theOrdeelbook (Ordeel: sentence).[22] On 10 August 1410, civil unrest forced a compromise (German:Rezeß, literally meaning: withdrawal). This is considered the firstconstitution of Hamburg.[23]

In 1356, theMatthiae-Mahl feast dinner forHanseatic League cities was celebrated for the first time on 25 February, the first day of spring in medieval times. It continues today as the world's oldest ceremonial meal.[24]

Early modern period

[edit]
Hamburg,c. 1600

In 1529, the city embracedLutheranism, and it receivedReformed refugees from theNetherlands and France.

WhenJan van Valckenborgh introduced a second layer to the fortifications to protect against theThirty Years' War in the seventeenth century, he extended Hamburg and created a "New Town" (Neustadt) whose street names still date from the grid system of roads he introduced.[25]

From the autumn of 1696 to the spring of 1697 theCompany of Scotland trading to Africa and the Indies was active in Hamburg. While it was unsuccessful in raising capital locally, it commissioned the construction of four vessels in the port. TheCaledonia, a ship of 600 tons with 56 guns, and theInstuaration (later renamed theSt. Andrew), a vessel of 350 tons, were launched in March 1697.[26]

Upon the dissolution of theHoly Roman Empire in 1806, theFree Imperial City of Hamburg was not incorporated into a larger administrative area while retaining special privileges (mediatised), but became asovereign state with the official title of theFree and Hanseatic City of Hamburg. Hamburg was briefly annexed byNapoleon I to theFirst French Empire (1804–1814/1815). Russian forces underGeneral Bennigsen finally freed the city in 1814. Hamburg re-assumed its pre-1811 status as a city-state in 1814. TheVienna Congress of 1815 confirmed Hamburg's independence and it became one of 39 sovereign states of theGerman Confederation (1815–1866).

In 1842, about a quarter of the inner city was destroyed in the "Great Fire". The fire started on the night of 4 May and was not extinguished until 8 May. It destroyed three churches, the town hall, and many other buildings, killing 51 people and leaving an estimated 20,000 homeless. Reconstruction took more than 40 years.

Hamburg in 1811

After periodic political unrest, particularly in1848, Hamburg adopted in 1860 a semidemocratic constitution that provided for the election of the Senate, the governing body of the city-state, by adult taxpaying males. Other innovations included the separation of powers, the separation of Church and State, freedom of the press, of assembly and association. Hamburg became a member of theNorth German Confederation (1866–1871) and of theGerman Empire (1871–1918), and maintained its self-ruling status during theWeimar Republic (1919–1933).Hamburg acceded to the German Customs Union or Zollverein in 1888, the last (along with Bremen) of the German states to join. The city experienced its fastest growth during the second half of the 19th century when its population more than quadrupled to 800,000 as the growth of the city'sAtlantic trade helped make it Europe's second-largest port.[27] TheHamburg-America Line, withAlbert Ballin as its director, became the world's largesttransatlantic shipping company around the start of the 20th century. Shipping companies sailing to South America, Africa, India and East Asia were based in the city. Hamburg was the departure port for many Germans and Eastern Europeans to emigrate to the United States in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Trading communities from all over the world established themselves there.

A majoroutbreak of cholera in 1892 was badly handled by the city government, which retained an unusual degree of independence for a German city. About 8,600 died in the largest German epidemic of the late 19th century, and the last major cholera epidemic in a major city of the Western world.

Second World War

[edit]
HamburgEilbek after the1943 bombing; today around 25% of Hamburg's buildings are from before the Second World War[28]

Hamburg was aGau within theadministrative division of Nazi Germany from 1934 until 1945. During theSecond World War, theAllied bombing of Hamburg devastated much of the city and the harbour. On 23 July 1943, theRoyal Air Force (RAF) andUnited States Army Air Force firebombing created afirestorm which spread from theHauptbahnhof (main railway station) and quickly moved south-east, completely destroying entire boroughs such asHammerbrook,Billbrook andHamm South. Thousands of people perished in these densely populated working class boroughs. The raids, codenamedOperation Gomorrah by the RAF, killed at least 42,600 civilians; the precise number is not known.[citation needed] About one million civilians were evacuated in the aftermath of the raids. While some of the boroughs destroyed were rebuilt as residential districts after the war, others such as Hammerbrook were entirely developed into office, retail and limited residential or industrial districts.

TheHamburg Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery is in the greaterOhlsdorf Cemetery in the north of Hamburg.

At least 42,900 people are thought to have perished[29] in theNeuengamme concentration camp (about 25 km, 16 mi outside the city in the marshlands), mostly from epidemics and in thedestruction of Kriegsmarine vessels housing evacuees at the end of the war.

Systematicdeportations of Jewish Germans and Gentile Germans of Jewish descent started on 18 October 1941. These were all directed toghettos in Nazi-occupied Europe or toconcentration camps. Most deported persons perished inthe Holocaust. By the end of 1942, theJüdischer Religionsverband in Hamburg was dissolved as an independent legal entity and its remaining assets and staff were assumed by theReich Association of Jews in Germany (District Northwest). On 10 June 1943, theReich Security Main Office dissolved the association by a decree.[30] The few remaining employees not somewhat protected by amixed marriage were deported from Hamburg on 23 June toTheresienstadt, where most of them perished. About 7800 Hamburg Jews were murdered in the Holocaust, of the nearly 17 thousand who had lived in the city beforeHitler's rise to power.[31]

Post-war history

[edit]
Container Terminal at the Port of Hamburg

The city was surrendered toBritish Forces on 3 May 1945, in theBattle of Hamburg,[32] three days afterAdolf Hitler's death. After theSecond World War, Hamburg formed part of theBritish Zone of Occupation; it became a state ofWest Germany in 1949.

On 16 February 1962, aNorth Sea flood caused the Elbe to rise to an all-time high, inundating one-fifth of Hamburg and killing more than 300 people.

Theinner German border – only 50 kilometres (30 mi) east of Hamburg – separated the city from most of its hinterland and reduced Hamburg's global trade. SinceGerman reunification in 1990, and the accession of several Central European andBaltic countries into theEuropean Union in 2004, thePort of Hamburg has restarted ambitions for regaining its position as the region's largest deep-sea port for container shipping and its major commercial and trading centre.

Geography

[edit]

Hamburg is at a sheltered natural harbour on the southern fanning-out of theJutland Peninsula, betweenContinental Europe to the south andScandinavia to the north, with theNorth Sea to the west and theBaltic Sea to the northeast. It is on theRiver Elbe at its confluence with theAlster andBille. The city centre is around theBinnenalster ("Inner Alster") andAußenalster ("Outer Alster"), both formed by damming the River Alster to create lakes. The islands ofNeuwerk,Scharhörn, andNigehörn, 100 kilometres (60 mi) away in theHamburg Wadden Sea National Park, are also part of the city of Hamburg.[33]

The neighbourhoods ofNeuenfelde,Cranz, Francop andFinkenwerder are part of theAltes Land (old land) region, the largest contiguous fruit-producing region in Central Europe.Neugraben-Fischbek has Hamburg's highest elevation, theHasselbrack at 116.2 metres (381 ft)AMSL.[34] Hamburg borders thestates ofSchleswig-Holstein andLower Saxony.

Climate

[edit]

Hamburg has anoceanic climate (Köppen:Cfb;Trewartha:Dobk), influenced by its proximity to the coast and maritime influences that originate over the Atlantic Ocean. The location in the north of Germany provides extremes greater than typical marine climates, but definitely in the category due to the prevailing westerlies.[35] Nearby wetlands enjoy a maritime temperate climate. The amount of snowfall has varied greatly in recent decades. In the late 1970s and early 1980s, heavy snowfall sometimes occurred,[36] the winters of recent years have been less cold, with snowfall just a few days per year.[37][38]

The warmest months are June, July, and August, with high temperatures of 20.1 to 22.5 °C (68.2 to 72.5 °F). The coldest are December, January, and February, with low temperatures of −0.3 to 1.0 °C (31.5 to 33.8 °F).[39] The annual extreme temperatures range from −29.1 °C (−20.4 °F) on 13 February 1940, to 40.1 °C (104.2 °F) on20 July 2022, and the latter was measured at Hamburg-Neuwiedenthal Meteorological Station, on the same day, a high temperature record of 39.1 °C (102.4 °F) was recorded atHamburg Airport.[40]

Climate data forHamburg-Fuhlsbuttel
WMO ID: 10147; coordinates53°37′59″N9°59′17″E / 53.63306°N 9.98806°E /53.63306; 9.98806; elevation: 10.7 m (35 ft); 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1936–present
MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDecYear
Record high °C (°F)15.7
(60.3)
18.9
(66.0)
23.5
(74.3)
29.7
(85.5)
33.5
(92.3)
34.8
(94.6)
39.1
(102.4)
37.3
(99.1)
32.3
(90.1)
27.1
(80.8)
20.2
(68.4)
15.7
(60.3)
39.1
(102.4)
Mean maximum °C (°F)10.9
(51.6)
11.9
(53.4)
16.6
(61.9)
22.3
(72.1)
26.8
(80.2)
29.6
(85.3)
31.1
(88.0)
31.0
(87.8)
25.6
(78.1)
20.0
(68.0)
14.5
(58.1)
11.4
(52.5)
32.2
(90.0)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F)4.2
(39.6)
5.2
(41.4)
8.7
(47.7)
13.9
(57.0)
18.0
(64.4)
20.9
(69.6)
23.2
(73.8)
23.0
(73.4)
18.8
(65.8)
13.6
(56.5)
8.2
(46.8)
5.0
(41.0)
13.6
(56.5)
Daily mean °C (°F)2.1
(35.8)
2.4
(36.3)
4.9
(40.8)
9.1
(48.4)
13.0
(55.4)
16.0
(60.8)
18.3
(64.9)
18.0
(64.4)
14.4
(57.9)
10.0
(50.0)
5.7
(42.3)
2.9
(37.2)
9.7
(49.5)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F)−0.5
(31.1)
−0.5
(31.1)
1.1
(34.0)
4.0
(39.2)
7.6
(45.7)
10.8
(51.4)
13.3
(55.9)
13.1
(55.6)
10.1
(50.2)
6.3
(43.3)
2.9
(37.2)
0.4
(32.7)
5.7
(42.3)
Mean minimum °C (°F)−9.5
(14.9)
−8.1
(17.4)
−5.5
(22.1)
−2.7
(27.1)
0.7
(33.3)
5.5
(41.9)
8.6
(47.5)
7.9
(46.2)
4.2
(39.6)
−0.9
(30.4)
−3.7
(25.3)
−7.4
(18.7)
−11.6
(11.1)
Record low °C (°F)−22.8
(−9.0)
−29.1
(−20.4)
−15.3
(4.5)
−7.1
(19.2)
−5.0
(23.0)
0.6
(33.1)
3.4
(38.1)
1.8
(35.2)
−1.2
(29.8)
−7.1
(19.2)
−15.4
(4.3)
−18.5
(−1.3)
−29.1
(−20.4)
Averageprecipitation mm (inches)66.7
(2.63)
54.9
(2.16)
56.7
(2.23)
39.2
(1.54)
57.8
(2.28)
74.4
(2.93)
81.8
(3.22)
77.5
(3.05)
64.7
(2.55)
63.0
(2.48)
61.1
(2.41)
72.6
(2.86)
770.5
(30.33)
Average extreme snow depth cm (inches)3.9
(1.5)
4.3
(1.7)
4.1
(1.6)
trace0
(0)
0
(0)
0
(0)
0
(0)
0
(0)
0
(0)
1.0
(0.4)
2.8
(1.1)
8.8
(3.5)
Average precipitation days(≥ 1.0 mm)17.716.215.212.813.815.316.015.814.516.216.918.0188.4
Average snowy days(≥ 1.0 cm)5.95.02.900000001.23.518.5
Averagerelative humidity (%)85.882.677.771.070.872.172.674.379.483.487.187.678.7
Mean monthlysunshine hours44.966.8119.9182.8221.2210.3218.8202.7152.4109.351.436.11,616.7
Averageultraviolet index0124566542103
Source 1:World Meteorological Organization[41]
Source 2:DWD[42][40] and Weather Atlas[43]

View climate chart1986–2016 or1960–1990

Demographics

[edit]
Main article:Demographics of Hamburg
Hamburg population pyramid in 2022
Historical population
YearPop.±% p.a.
950500—    
143016,000+0.72%
1840136,956+0.53%
1900705,738+2.77%
1910931,035+2.81%
19201,026,989+0.99%
19301,145,124+1.09%
19401,725,500+4.19%
19451,350,278−4.79%
19501,605,606+3.52%
19611,840,543+1.25%
19701,793,640−0.29%
19751,717,383−0.87%
19801,645,095−0.86%
19851,579,884−0.81%
19901,652,363+0.90%
20011,726,363+0.40%
20111,706,696−0.11%
20221,808,846+0.53%
Population size may be affected by changes in administrative divisions.
Largest groups of foreign residents[44]
NationalityPopulation (31 December 2022)
 Turkey44,280
 Ukraine33,570
 Afghanistan24,635
 Poland23,310
 Syria17,725
 Portugal11,465
 Romania10,510
 Iran9,725
 Russia9,375
 Bulgaria8,830
 North Macedonia7,770
 Italy7,570
 Ghana7,550
 Serbia7,405
 Croatia6,685
 India6,420
 China6,235
 Greece6,095
 Spain6,040
 Iraq5,400

On 31 December 2016, there were 1,860,759 people registered as living in Hamburg in an area of 755.3 km2 (291.6 sq mi). The population density was 2,464/km2 (6,380/sq mi).[45] The metropolitan area of the Hamburg region (Hamburg Metropolitan Region) is home to 5,107,429 living on 196/km2 (510/sq mi).[46]

There were 915,319 women and 945,440 men in Hamburg. For every 1,000 females, there were 1,033 males. In 2015, there were 19,768 births in Hamburg (of which 38.3% were to unmarried women); 6422 marriages and 3190 divorces, and 17,565 deaths. In the city, the population was spread out, with 16.1% under the age of 18, and 18.3% were 65 years of age or older. 356 people in Hamburg were over the age of 100.[47]

According to the Statistical Office for Hamburg andSchleswig-Holstein, the number of people with a migrant background is at 34% (631,246).[48] Immigrants come from 200 countries. 5,891 people have acquired German cititzenship in 2016.[49]

In 2016, there were 1,021,666 households, of which 17.8% had children under the age of 18; 54.4% of all households were made up of singles. 25.6% of all households were single parent households. The average household size was 1.8.[50]

Portuguese community

[edit]

Hamburg has the largestPortuguese community in Germany with about 30,000 people withPortuguese heritage. Many Portuguese sailors and merchants came to Hamburg beginning in the 15th century due to itsport. Since the 1970s, there has been a district in Hamburg called thePortugiesenviertel [de] (Portuguese quarter) where many Portuguese people settled and which has a variety of Portuguese restaurants, cafes and shops that attract many tourists. There are several statues, squares and streets in Hamburg that are named after Portuguese historical figures. These include theVasco da Gama statue on the Kornhaus bridge, which was suggested by Portuguese residents to bring visibility to the Portuguese community in Hamburg.[51]

Afghan community

[edit]
See also:Afghans in Germany andAfghan diaspora

Hamburg'sAfghan community of about 50,000 people is the largest not only in Germany, but also in Europe. They first came to Hamburg in the 1970s before expanding during theAfghan conflict in the 1980s and 1990s where many Afghan migrants chose to live in Hamburg.[52] After 2015 the Afghan population almost doubled due to a new influx from the migrant crisis. There is an area in Hamburg behind the central station where many Afghan restaurants and shops are located. Manycarpet businesses inSpeicherstadt are operated by Afghan traders,[53] with Hamburg still a global leader in the trade of oriental rugs.[54]

Foreign citizens in Hamburg

[edit]

Hamburg residents with a foreign citizenship as of 31 December 2016 is as follows:[49]

CitizenshipNumber%
Total288,338100%
Europe193,81267.2%
European Union109,49638%
Asian59,29220.6%
African18,9966.6%
North and South American11,3153.9%
Australian and Oceanian1,2340.4%

Language

[edit]
See also:Hamburgisch dialect

As elsewhere in Germany,Standard German is spoken in Hamburg, but as typical for northern Germany, the original language of Hamburg isLow German, usually referred to asHamborger Platt (GermanHamburger Platt) orHamborgsch. Since large-scalestandardisation of the German language beginning in earnest in the 18th century, various Low German-coloured dialects have developed (contact-varieties of German on Low Saxon substrates). Originally, there was a range of suchMissingsch varieties, the best-known being the low-prestige ones of the working classes and the somewhat more bourgeoisHanseatendeutsch (Hanseatic German), although the term is used in appreciation.[55] All of these are now moribund due to the influences of Standard German used by education and media. However, the former importance of Low German is indicated by several songs, such as thesea shantyHamborger Veermaster, written in the 19th century when Low German was used more frequently. Many toponyms and street names reflect Low Saxon vocabulary, partially even in Low Saxon spelling, which is not standardised, and to some part in forms adapted to Standard German.[56]

Religion

[edit]
Religion in Hamburg – 2018
religionpercent
None or other
65.2%
EKD Protestants
24.9%
Roman Catholics
9.9%

65.2% of the population is not religious or is adherent to religions other than the Evangelical Church or Catholicism.[57]

In 2018, 24.9% of the population belonged to theNorth Elbian Evangelical Lutheran Church, the largest religious body, and 9.9% to theRoman Catholic Church. Hamburg is seat of one of thethree bishops of theEvangelical Lutheran Church in Northern Germany and seat of theRoman Catholic Archdiocese of Hamburg.

According to the publicationMuslimisches Leben in Deutschland ("Muslim life in Germany"), an estimated 141,900 Muslim migrants (from nearly 50 countries of origin) lived in Hamburg in 2008.[58] About three years later (May 2011) calculations based on census data for 21 countries of origin resulted in a figure of about 143,200 Muslim migrants in Hamburg, making up 8.4% percent of the population.[59] As of 2021[update], there were more than 50 mosques in the city,[60] including theAhmadiyya runFazle Omar Mosque, which is the oldest in the city,[61] and which hosts theIslamic Centre Hamburg.

A Jewish Community also exists.[62] As of 2022, around 2,500 Jews live in Hamburg.[63]

Government

[edit]
Further information:Government of Hamburg andList of mayors of Hamburg
Hamburg City Hall (front view)

The city of Hamburg is one of 16German states, therefore theMayor of Hamburg's office corresponds more to the role of aminister-president than to that of a city mayor. As aGerman state government, it is responsible for public education, correctional institutions and public safety; as a municipality, it is additionally responsible for libraries, recreational facilities, sanitation, water supply and welfare services.

Since 1897, the seat of the government has beenHamburg City Hall (Hamburg Rathaus), with the office of the mayor, the meeting room for the Senate and the floor for theHamburg Parliament.[64] From 2001 until 2010, the mayor of Hamburg wasOle von Beust,[65] who governed in Germany's first statewide "black-green" coalition, consisting of the conservativeCDU Hamburg and the alternative GAL, which are Hamburg's regional wing of theAlliance 90/The Greens party.[66] Von Beust was briefly succeeded byChristoph Ahlhaus in 2010, but the coalition broke apart on 28 November 2010.[67] On 7 March 2011Olaf Scholz (SPD) became mayor. After the 2015 election the SPD and theAlliance 90/The Greens formed a coalition.

Boroughs

[edit]
Main article:Boroughs and quarters of Hamburg
The 7 boroughs and 104 quarters of Hamburg

Hamburg is made up of seven boroughs (German:Bezirke) and subdivided into 104 quarters (German:Stadtteile). There are 181 localities (German:Ortsteile). The urban organisation is regulated by the Constitution of Hamburg and several laws.[9][68] Most of the quarters were former independent cities, towns or villages annexed into Hamburg proper. The last large annexation was done through theGreater Hamburg Act of 1937, when the citiesAltona,Harburg, andWandsbek were merged into the state of Hamburg.[69] TheAct of the Constitution and Administration of Hanseatic city of Hamburg established Hamburg as a state and a municipality.[70] Some of the boroughs and quarters have been rearranged several times.

Each borough is governed by a Borough Council (German:Bezirksversammlung) and administered by a Municipal Administrator (German:Bezirksamtsleiter). The boroughs are not independent municipalities: their power is limited and subordinate to theSenate of Hamburg. The borough administrator is elected by the Borough Council and thereafter requires confirmation and appointment by Hamburg's Senate.[68] The quarters have no governing bodies of their own.

The part of the North Sea in this aerial picture is called theHamburg Wadden Sea National Park and belongs administratively to the borough of Hamburg-Mitte. Some 50 people live here on the island Neuwerk (visible just above the centre).

Since the latest territorial reform of March 2008, the boroughs areHamburg-Mitte,Altona,Eimsbüttel,Hamburg-Nord,Wandsbek,Bergedorf, andHarburg.[71][72]

Hamburg-Mitte ("Hamburg Centre") covers mostly the urban centre of the city and consists of the quartersBillbrook,Billstedt,Borgfelde,Finkenwerder,HafenCity,Hamm,Hammerbrook,Horn,Kleiner Grasbrook,Neuwerk,Rothenburgsort,St. Georg,St. Pauli,Steinwerder,Veddel,Waltershof, andWilhelmsburg.[71] The quartersHamburg-Altstadt ("old town") andNeustadt ("new town") are the historical origin of Hamburg.

Altona is the westernmost urban borough, on the right bank of the Elbe river. From 1640 to 1864, Altona was under the administration of theDanish monarchy. Altona was an independent city until 1937. Politically, the following quarters are part of Altona:Altona-Altstadt,Altona-Nord,Bahrenfeld,Ottensen,Othmarschen,Groß Flottbek,Osdorf,Lurup,Nienstedten,Blankenese,Iserbrook,Sülldorf,Rissen, andSternschanze.[71]

Bergedorf consists of the quartersAllermöhe,Altengamme,Bergedorf—the centre of the former independent town,Billwerder,Curslack,Kirchwerder,Lohbrügge,Moorfleet,Neuengamme,Neuallermöhe,Ochsenwerder,Reitbrook,Spadenland, andTatenberg.[71]

Eimsbüttel is split into nine-quarters:Eidelstedt,Eimsbüttel,Harvestehude,Hoheluft-West,Lokstedt,Niendorf,Rotherbaum,Schnelsen, andStellingen.[71] Located within this borough is former Jewish neighbourhood Grindel.

Hamburg-Nord contains the quartersAlsterdorf,Barmbek-Nord,Barmbek-Süd,Dulsberg,Eppendorf,Fuhlsbüttel,Groß Borstel,Hoheluft-Ost,Hohenfelde,Langenhorn,Ohlsdorf withOhlsdorf cemetery,Uhlenhorst, andWinterhude.[71]

Harburg is situated on the southern shores of the river Elbe and covers parts of the port of Hamburg, residential and rural areas, and some research institutes. The quarters areAltenwerder,Cranz,Eißendorf,Francop,Gut Moor,Harburg,Hausbruch,Heimfeld,Langenbek,Marmstorf,Moorburg,Neuenfelde,Neugraben-Fischbek,Neuland,Rönneburg,Sinstorf, andWilstorf.[71]

Wandsbek is divided into the quartersBergstedt,Bramfeld,Duvenstedt,Eilbek,Farmsen-Berne,Hummelsbüttel,Jenfeld,Lemsahl-Mellingstedt,Marienthal,Poppenbüttel,Rahlstedt,Sasel,Steilshoop,Tonndorf,Volksdorf,Wandsbek,Wellingsbüttel, andWohldorf-Ohlstedt.[71]

Cityscape

[edit]
Panoramic view of the Hamburg skyline of theBinnenalster taken from Lombardsbrücke

Architecture

[edit]
Historicist Palmaille,Altona. Nearly 25.000 buildings in Hamburg are from thoseGründerzeit times.
The Marco-Polo-Centre (left) and Unilever HQ Germany
Further information on a building type for school buildings in Hamburg:Kreuzbau

Hamburg has architecturally significant buildings in a wide range of styles and just one skyscraper under construction (seeList of tallest buildings in Hamburg). Churches are important landmarks, such asSt Nicholas', which for a short time in the 19th century was the world's tallest building. The skyline features the tall spires of the most important churches (Hauptkirchen)St Michael's (nicknamed "Michel"),St Peter's,St James's (St. Jacobi), andSt. Catherine's covered with copper plates, and theHeinrich-Hertz-Turm, the radio and television tower (no longer publicly accessible).

The Chilehaus with a typical brick expressionist façade

The manystreams, rivers, and canals are crossed bysome 2,500 bridges, more than London,Amsterdam, andVenice put together.[73] Hamburg has more bridges inside its city limits than any other city in the world.[74] TheKöhlbrandbrücke, Freihafen Elbbrücken,Lombardsbrücke, and Kennedybrücke dividing Binnenalster from Aussenalster are important roadways.

Thetown hall is a richly decorated Neo-Renaissance building finished in 1897.The tower is 112 metres (367 ft) high. Its façade, 111 m (364 ft) long, depicts the emperors of the Holy Roman Empire, since Hamburg was, as a Free Imperial City, only under the sovereignty of the emperor.[75] TheChilehaus, abrick expressionist office building built in 1922 and designed by architectFritz Höger, is shaped like an ocean liner.

Europe's largest urban development since 2008, theHafenCity, will house about 15,000 inhabitants and 45,000 workers.[76] The plan includes designs byRem Koolhaas andRenzo Piano. TheElbphilharmonie(Elbe Philharmonic Hall), opened in January 2017, houses concerts in a sail-shaped building on top of an old warehouse, designed by architectsHerzog & de Meuron.[77][78]

The many parks are distributed over the whole city, which makes Hamburg a very verdant city. The biggest parks are theStadtpark, theOhlsdorf Cemetery, andPlanten un Blomen. TheStadtpark, Hamburg's "Central Park", has a great lawn and a huge water tower, which houses one of Europe's biggestplanetaria. The park and its buildings were designed byFritz Schumacher in the 1910s.

Parks and gardens

[edit]
See also:List of parks and gardens in Hamburg
A water-light concert atPlanten un Blomen park

The lavish and spaciousPlanten un Blomen park (Low German dialect for "plants and flowers") located in the centre of Hamburg is the green heart of the city. Within the park are various thematic gardens, the biggest Japanese garden in Germany, and theAlter Botanischer Garten Hamburg, which is a historicbotanical garden that now consists primarily ofgreenhouses.

TheBotanischer Garten Hamburg is a modernbotanical garden maintained by theUniversity of Hamburg. Besides these, there are many more parks of various sizes. In 2014 Hamburg celebrated a birthday of park culture, where many parks were reconstructed and cleaned up. Moreover, every year there are water-light-concerts in thePlanten un Blomen park, from May to early October.

Culture

[edit]
Abel Seyler, one of the great theatre principals of 18th century Europe, established Hamburg as a major centre of theatrical innovation in the 1760s.

From the 1760s the theatre directorAbel Seyler—the leader of theHamburg National Theatre and subsequently theSeyler Theatre Company—established Hamburg as one of the leading European centres of theatrical innovation, promoting experimental productions and pioneering a new more realist style of acting, introducing Shakespeare to a German language audience, and promoting the concept of a national theatre in the tradition of Ludvig Holberg, theSturm und Drang playwrights, and seriousGerman opera.[79]

Today Hamburg has more than 40 theatres, 60 museums, and 100 music venues and clubs. With 6.6 music venues per 100,000 inhabitants, Hamburg has the second-highest density of music venues of Germany's largest cities, after Munich and ahead of Cologne and Berlin.[80][81] In 2005, more than 18 million people visited concerts, exhibitions, theatres, cinemas, museums, and cultural events, and 8,552 taxable companies (average size 3.16 employees) were engaged in the culture sector, which includes music, performing arts, and literature.[82] The creative industries represent almost one fifth of all companies in Hamburg.[83]Hamburg has entered theEuropean Green Capital Award scheme, and was awarded the title of European Green Capital for 2011.

Theatres

[edit]
See also:List of theatres in Hamburg
TheDeutsches Schauspielhaus in the St. Georg quarter

Theatres in the city include the state-ownedDeutsches Schauspielhaus, theThalia Theatre,Ohnsorg Theatre, "Schmidts Tivoli", and theKampnagel.[84]

TheEnglish Theatre of Hamburg, near theU3 station Mundsburg, was founded in 1976 and is the oldest professional English-language theatre in Germany, with exclusively English-speaking actors in its company.

Museums

[edit]
See also:List of museums in Hamburg

Hamburg has several large museums and galleries showing classical and contemporary art, for example theKunsthalle Hamburg with its contemporary art gallery (Galerie der Gegenwart), theMuseum für Kunst und Gewerbe (Museum of Art and Design), and theDeichtorhallen (with the House of Photography and Hall of Contemporary Art). TheInternationales Maritimes Museum Hamburg opened in the HafenCity quarter in 2008. There are various specialised museums in Hamburg, such as theArchäologisches Museum Hamburg (Hamburg Archaeological Museum) in theHarburg borough, theHamburg Museum of Work (Museum der Arbeit), and several museums of local history, such as theKiekeberg Open Air Museum [de] (Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg) atKiekeberg in theHarburg Hills, just outside of Hamburg, inRosengarten. Twomuseum ships nearSt. Pauli Piers (Landungsbrücken) bear witness to the freight ship (Cap San Diego) and cargo sailing ship era (Rickmer Rickmers).[85] In 2017 the Hamburg-built iron-hulled sailing shipPeking returned to the city and was installed in theGerman Port Museum in 2020. The world's largest model railway museum,Miniatur Wunderland, with 15.4 km (9.57 mi) total railway length, is also situated near St. Pauli Piers in a former warehouse.

BallinStadt, a memorial park and former emigration station, is dedicated to the millions of Europeans who emigrated to North and South America between 1850 and 1939. Visitors descending from those overseas emigrants may search for their ancestors at computer terminals.

Music

[edit]
The 110-metre-high (361-foot) Elbphilharmonie concert hall

Hamburg State Opera is a leading opera company. Its orchestra is thePhilharmoniker Hamburg. The city's other major orchestra is theNDR Elbphilharmonie Orchestra. The main concert venue is the new concert hallElbphilharmonie. Before it was theLaeiszhalle,Musikhalle Hamburg. The Laeiszhalle also houses a third orchestra, theHamburger Symphoniker.György Ligeti andAlfred Schnittke taught at theHochschule für Musik und Theater Hamburg.[86][87]

Hamburg is the birthplace ofJohannes Brahms, who spent his formative early years in the city, and the birthplace and home of waltz composerOscar Fetrás, who wrote the "Mondnacht auf der Alster" waltz.

Since the German premiere ofCats in 1986, there have always been musicals running, includingThe Phantom of the Opera,The Lion King,Dirty Dancing, andDance of the Vampires (musical). This density, the highest in Germany, is partly due to the major musical production companyStage Entertainment being based in the city.

In addition to musicals, opera houses, concert halls, and theatres, the cityscape is characterised by a large music scene. This includes, among other things, over 100 music venues, several annual festivals and over 50 event organisers based in Hamburg.[88] Larger venues include theBarclaycard Arena, theBahrenfeld harness racing track, andHamburg City Park.

Hamburg was an important centre of rock music in the early 1960s.The Beatles lived and played in Hamburg from August 1960 to December 1962. They proved popular and gained local acclaim. Prior to the group's initial recording and widespread fame, Hamburg provided residency and performing venues for the band during the time they performed there. One of the venues they performed at was theStar Club on St. Pauli.

Pop musicians from Hamburg includeUdo Lindenberg,Deichkind, andJan Delay. The singerAnnett Louisan lives in the city.[89]

An important meeting place for Hamburg musicians from the 1970s to the mid-80s was the jazz pubOnkel Pö, which was originally founded in the Pöseldorf neighbourhood and later moved to Eppendorf. Many musicians who were counted as part of the "Hamburg scene [de]" met here. In addition to Udo Lindenberg, these includedOtto Waalkes, Hans Scheibner and groups such asTorfrock andFrumpy. One of the members of the band Frumpy was the Hamburg-born singer and composerInga Rumpf.

Hamburg is the origin of the "Hamburger Schule", a term used for alternative music bands likeTocotronic,Blumfeld,Tomte or Kante. The meeting point of the Hamburg School was long considered to be theGolden Pudel Club [de] in Altona's old town, near the Fischmarkt. Alongside clubs such as the Pal, the Moondoo or the Waagenbau, today the Pudel is a central location of the Hamburg electro scene. Artists of this scene include the DJ duoMoonbootica, Mladen Solomun, andHelena Hauff.[90]

Hamburg is also home to many music labels, music distributors and publishers. These includeWarner Music,Kontor Records,PIAS,Edel SE & Co. KGaA, Believe Digital, and Indigo. The high proportion of independent labels in the city, which includeAudiolith, Dial Records,Grand Hotel van Cleef, among others, is striking. Before its closure, the labelL'Âge d'or also belonged to these.

In addition, Hamburg has a considerablealternative andpunk scene, which gathers around theRote Flora, asquatted former theatre located in theSternschanze.

The city was a major centre forheavy metal music in the 1980s.Helloween,Gamma Ray,Running Wild, andGrave Digger started in Hamburg.[91] Theindustrial rock bandKMFDM was also formed in Hamburg, initially as a performance art project. The influences of these and other bands from the area helped establish the subgenre ofpower metal.

In the late 1990s, Hamburg was considered one of the strongholds of the German hip-hop scene. Bands likeBeginner shaped the city's hip-hop style and made it a serious location for the hip-hop scene through songs like "Hamburg City Blues". In addition to Beginner, German hip-hop acts from Hamburg includeFünf Sterne Deluxe,Samy Deluxe,Fettes Brot, and187 Strassenbande.[92]

Hamburg has a vibrant psychedelic trance community, with record labels such asSpirit Zone.[93]

Festivals and regular events

[edit]
AnnualHafengeburtstag (Port Anniversary)

Hamburg is noted for several festivals and regular events. Some of them are street festivals, such as theLGBT prideHamburg Pride festival[94] or the Alster fair (German:Alstervergnügen),[95] held at theBinnenalster. TheHamburger DOM is northern Germany's biggest funfair, held three times a year.[96]Hafengeburtstag is afunfair to honour the birthday of the port of Hamburg with a party and a ship parade.[97] The annual biker's service inSaint Michael's Church attracts tens of thousands ofbikers.[98] Christmas markets in December are held at theHamburg Rathaus square, among other places.[99] Thelong night of museums (German:Lange Nacht der Museen) offers one entrance fee for about 40 museums until midnight.[100] The sixthFestival of Cultures was held in September 2008, celebrating multi-cultural life.[101] TheFilmfest Hamburg — a film festival originating from the 1950sFilm Days (German:Film Tage) — presents a wide range of films.[102] TheHamburg Messe and Congress offers a venue for trade shows, suchhanseboot, an international boat show, orDu und deine Welt, a large consumer products show.[103] Regular sports events—some open to pro and amateur participants—are the cycling competitionEuroEyes Cyclassics, theHamburg Marathon, the biggest marathon in Germany after Berlin,[104] the tennis tournamentHamburg Masters, and equestrian events like theDeutsches Derby.

Hamburg is also known for its music and festival culture. For example, the Reeperbahn alone has between 25 and 30 million visitors every year. In addition, there are over a million visitors to the annual festivals and major music events.[105] Hamburg's festivals include theElbjazz FestivalArchived 20 April 2021 at theWayback Machine, which takes place 2 days a year (usually on the Whitsun weekend) in Hamburg's harbour and HafenCity.

Shellac performing live in Hamburg @Kampnagel, Nov. 1, 2014

For contemporary and experimental music, the "blurred edgesArchived 20 April 2021 at theWayback Machine" festival usually follows in May at various venues within Hamburg. In mid-August, theMS Dockville music and arts festival has run annually since 2007 in theWilhelmsburg district.[106] This is followed at the end of September by theReeperbahn Festival [de], which has been running since 2006. As Europe's largest club festival, it offers several hundred program points around the Reeperbahn in Hamburg over four days and is one of the most important meeting places for the music industry worldwide.[107] In November, the ÜBERJAZZ Festival, which aims to expand the stylistic boundaries of the concept of jazz, starts every year at Kampnagel.[108]

Cuisine

[edit]
Main article:Cuisine of Hamburg
Friedplaice,Finkenwerder style

Original Hamburg dishes areBirnen, Bohnen und Speck (green beans cooked with pears and bacon).[109]Aalsuppe (HamburgischOolsupp) is often mistaken to be German for "eel soup" (Aal/Ool translated 'eel'), but the name probably comes from the Low Saxonallns[aˑlns], meaning "all", "everything and the kitchen sink", not necessarily eel. Today eel is often included to meet the expectations of unsuspecting diners.[110] There isBratkartoffeln (pan-fried potato slices),Finkenwerder Scholle (Low SaxonFinkwarder Scholl, pan-fried plaice),Pannfisch (pan-fried fish with mustard sauce),[111]Rote Grütze (Low SaxonRode Grütt, related to Danishrødgrød, a type of summer pudding made mostly from berries and usually served with cream, like Danishrødgrød med fløde),[112] andLabskaus (a mixture of corned beef, mashed potatoes, and beetroot, a cousin of the Norwegianlapskaus andLiverpool'slobscouse, all offshoots off an old-time one-pot meal that used to be the main component of the common sailor's humdrum diet on the high seas).[113]

Alsterwasser (in reference to the city's river, theAlster) is the local name for a type ofshandy, a concoction of equal parts of beer and carbonated lemonade (Zitronenlimonade), the lemonade being added to the beer.[114]

A regional dessert pastry called "Franzbrötchen" is similar in preparation to acroissant, but includes a cinnamon and sugar filling, often with raisins or brown sugarstreusel. Ordinary bread rolls tend to be oval-shaped and of the French bread variety. The local name isSchrippe (scored lengthways) for the oval kind and, for the round kind,Rundstück ("round piece" rather than mainstream GermanBrötchen, diminutive form ofBrot "bread"),[115] a relative of Denmark'srundstykke. The cuisines of Hamburg andDenmark, especially ofCopenhagen, have a lot in common. This also includes a predilection for open-faced sandwiches of all sorts, especially topped with cold-smoked or pickled fish.[citation needed]

The Americanhamburger may have developed from Hamburg'sFrikadeller: a pan-fried patty (usually larger and thicker than its American counterpart) made from a mixture of ground beef, soakedstale bread, egg, chopped onion, salt, and pepper, usually served with potatoes and vegetables like any other piece of meat, not usually on a bun. The Oxford Dictionary defined aHamburger steak in 1802: a sometimes-smoked and -salted piece of meat, that, according to some sources, came from Hamburg to America.[116] The name and food, "hamburger", has entered all English-speaking countries, and derivative words in non-English speaking countries.

There are restaurants which offer most of these dishes, especially in theHafenCity.

Main sights

[edit]
Rote Flora
Rote Flora in theSternschanze neighbourhood, Hamburg

Alternative culture

[edit]

Hamburg has long been a centre of alternative music and counter-culture movements. The boroughs ofSt. Pauli,Sternschanze, andAltona are known for being home to many radical left-wing and anarchist groups, culminating every year during the traditional May Day demonstrations.[117]

During the2017 G20 summit, which took place in Hamburg from 7–8 July that year, protestors clashed violently with the police in theSternschanze area and particularly around the Rote Flora. On 7 July, several cars were set on fire and street barricades were erected to prevent the police from entering the area. In response to that, the police made heavy use of water cannons and tear gas in order to scatter the protestors. However, this was met with strong resistance by protestors, resulting in a total of 160 injured police and 75 arrested participants in the protests.[118]

After the summit, however, the Rote Flora issued a statement, in which it condemns the arbitrary acts of violence that were committed by some of the protestors whilst generally defending the right to use violence as a means of self-defence against police oppression. In particular, the spokesperson of the Rote Flora said that the autonomous cultural centre had a traditionally good relationship with its neighbours and local residents, since they were united in their fight against gentrification in that neighbourhood.[119]

British, American and English-speaking culture

[edit]
The English Theatre of Hamburg at Lerchenfeld 14

There are several English-speaking communities, such as the Caledonian Society of Hamburg, The British Club Hamburg, British and Commonwealth Luncheon Club, Anglo-German Clube.V.,[120] Professional Women's Forum,[121] The British Decorative and Fine Arts Society, The English Speaking Union of the Commonwealth, The Scottish Country Dancers of Hamburg, The Hamburg Players e.V. English Language Theatre Group, TheHamburg Exiles Rugby Club, several cricket clubs, and The Morris Minor Register of Hamburg. Furthermore, the Anglo-Hanseatic Lodge No. 850[122] within the Grand Lodge of British Freemasons of Germany[123] under the United Grand Lodges of Germany[124] works in Hamburg, and has a diverse expat membership. There is also a 400-year-old Anglican church community worshipping atSt Thomas Becket Church [de].[125]

American and international English-speaking organisations include The American Club of Hamburge.V.,[126] the American Women's Club of Hamburg,[127] the English Speaking Union, the German-American Women's Club,[128] and The International Women's Club of Hamburg e.V.The American Chamber of Commerce handles matters related to business affairs.[129] TheInternational School of Hamburg serves school children.

William Wordsworth,Dorothy Wordsworth, andSamuel Taylor Coleridge spent the last two weeks of September 1798 at Hamburg.Dorothy wrote a detailed journal of their stay, labelled "The Hamburg Journal (1798) by noted Wordsworth scholarEdward de Selincourt".[130]

A Hamburg saying, referring to its anglophile nature, is: "Wenn es in London anfängt zu regnen, spannen die Hamburger den Schirm auf". ... "When it starts raining in London, people in Hamburg open their umbrellas".

Memorials

[edit]

A memorial for English engineerWilliam Lindley,[131] who, beginning in 1842, reorganised the drinking water and sewerage system and thus helped to fight against cholera, is near Baumwall railway station in Vorsetzen street.[132]53°32′39″N9°58′46″E / 53.544198°N 9.979411°E /53.544198; 9.979411

In 2009, more than 2,500 "stumbling blocks" (Stolpersteine) were laid, engraved with the names of deported and murdered citizens. Inserted into the pavement in front of their former houses, the blocks draw attention to the victims of Nazi persecution.[133]

Economy

[edit]

The gross domestic product (GDP) of Hamburg was 119.0 billion € in 2018, accounting for 3.6% of German economic output. GDP per capita adjusted for purchasing power was €59,600 or 197% of the EU27 average in the same year. The GDP per employee was 132% of the EU average.[134] The city has a relatively high employment rate, at 88 percent of the working-age population, employed in over 160,000 businesses. The median gross salary in 2021 was €47,544, which is 9.29% higher than the median gross salary in Germany overall.[135]

The unemployment rate stood at 6.1% in October 2018 and was higher than the German average.[136]

Year[137]20002001200220032004200520062007200820092010201120122013201420152016201720182019
Unemployment rate in %8.98.39.09.99.711.311.09.18.18.68.27.87.57.47.67.47.16.86.36.1
The Hamburg Stock Exchange

Banking

[edit]

Hamburg has for centuries been a commercial centre of Northern Europe, and is the most important banking city ofNorthern Germany. The city is the seat ofGermany's oldest bank, theBerenberg Bank,M.M.Warburg & CO, andHamburg Commercial Bank. TheHamburg Stock Exchange is the oldest of its kind in Germany.

Port

[edit]
Main article:Port of Hamburg
Queen Mary 2 at thePort of Hamburg

The most significant economic unit is the Port of Hamburg, which ranks third toRotterdam andAntwerpen in Europe and 17th-largest worldwide, with transshipments of 8.9 million twenty-foot equivalent units (TEU) of cargo and 138.2 million tons of goods in 2016.[138] International trade is also the reason for the large number of consulates in the city. Although situated 110 kilometres (70 mi) up the Elbe, it is considered a sea port due to its ability to handle large ocean-going vessels.[139]

Industrial production

[edit]

Heavy industry of Hamburg includes the making of steel, aluminium, copper and various large shipyards such asBlohm + Voss.[140]

Hamburg, along withSeattle andToulouse, is an important location of the civilaerospace industry.Airbus, which operates theHamburg-Finkenwerder assembly plant inFinkenwerder, employs over 13,000 people.[141]

HafenCity

[edit]
Main article:HafenCity
Western HafenCity area and Speicherstadt

The HafenCity is Europe's largest urban development project and is located in theHamburg-Mitte district. It consists of the area of the Great Grasbrook, the northern part of the former Elbe islandGrasbrook, and the warehouse district on the former Elbe island Kehrwieder and Wandrahm. It is bordered to the north, separated by the customs channel to Hamburg's city centre, west and south by the Elbe, and to the east, bounded by the upper harbour,Rothenburgsort. The district is full of rivers and streams and is surrounded by channels, and has a total area of about 2.2 square-kilometres.

HafenCity has 155hectares (383acres) in the area formerly belonging to the free port north of the Great Grasbrook. Residential units for up to 12,000 people are planned to be built on the site by around the mid-2020s, and jobs for up to 40,000 people, mainly in the office sector, should be created. It is the largest ongoing urban development project in Hamburg.

Construction work started in 2003, and in 2009 the first part of the urban development project was finished with the completion of the Dalmannkai / Sandtorkai neighbourhood – which is the first stage of the HafenCity project. According to the person responsible for the development and commercialisation of HafenCity,HafenCity Hamburg GmbH, half of the master plan underlying structural construction is already completed, whereas the other half is either under construction or is in the construction preparation stages.

Tourism

[edit]
City logo of Hamburg
Neuer Wall, one of Europe's most luxurious shopping streets

In 2017, more than 6,783,000 visitors with 13,822,000 overnight stays visited the city.[142] The tourism sector employs more than 175,000 people full-time and brings inrevenue of almost €9 billion, making the tourism industry a major economic force in the Hamburg Metropolitan Region. Hamburg has one of the fastest-growing tourism industries in Germany. From 2001 to 2007, the overnight stays in the city increased by 55.2% (Berlin +52.7%,Mecklenburg-Vorpommern +33%).[143]

The area ofReeperbahn, in the quarterSt. Pauli, is Europe's largest red light district and home of strip clubs, brothels, bars, and nightclubs. The singer and actorHans Albers is strongly associated with St. Pauli, and wrote the neighbourhood's unofficial anthem, "Auf der Reeperbahn Nachts um Halb Eins" ("On the Reeperbahn at Half Past Midnight"), in the 1940s.The Beatles had stints on the Reeperbahn early in their careers. Others prefer the laid-back neighbourhoodSchanze, with its street cafés, or a barbecue on one of the beaches along the river Elbe. Hamburg's zoo, theTierpark Hagenbeck, was founded in 1907 byCarl Hagenbeck as the first zoo with moated, barless enclosures.[144]

In 2016, the average visitor spent two nights in Hamburg.[145] The majority of visitors come from Germany. Most foreigners are European, especially fromDenmark (395,681 overnight stays), the United Kingdom (301,000 overnight stays),Switzerland (340,156 overnight stays),Austria (about 252,397 overnight stays), and theNetherlands (about 182,610 overnight stays).[145] The largest group from outside Europe comes from the United States (206,614 overnight stays).[145]

TheQueen Mary 2 has docked regularly since 2004, and there were six departures planned from 2010 onwards.[146]

Creative industries

[edit]
Der Spiegel headquarters

Media businesses employ over 70,000 people.[147] TheNorddeutscher Rundfunk, which includes the television stationNDR Fernsehen, is based in Hamburg, including the news programTagesschau, as are the commercial television stationHamburg 1, the Christian television stationBibel TV, and the civil media outletTide TV. There are regional radio stations such asRadio Hamburg. Some of Germany's largest publishing companies,Axel Springer AG,Gruner + Jahr, andBauer Media Group, are located in the city. Many national newspapers and magazines, such asDer Spiegel andDie Zeit, are produced in Hamburg, as well as some special-interest newspapers such asFinancial Times Deutschland.Hamburger Abendblatt andHamburger Morgenpost are daily regional newspapers with a large circulation. There are music publishers, such asWarner Bros. Records Germany, andICT firms such asAdobe Systems and Google Germany.

A total of about 2,000 companies are located in Hamburg that are active in the music industry. With over 17,000 employees and a gross value added of around 640 million euros, this industry is one of the strongest in the city.[148] TheInteressengemeinschaft Hamburger Musikwirtschaft [de] and theClubkombinat represent the companies in the industry. The interests of Hamburg musicians* are represented, for example, byRockCity Hamburg e.V.Archived 9 May 2021 at theWayback Machine.

Hamburg was one of the locations for theJames Bond series filmTomorrow Never Dies. TheReeperbahn has been the location for many scenes, including the 1994 Beatles filmBackbeat.[149] The filmA Most Wanted Man was set in and filmed in Hamburg. Hamburg was also shown inAn American Tail, where Fievel Mousekewitz and his family immigrate to America in the hopes to escape cats.

Infrastructure

[edit]

Health systems

[edit]

Hamburg has 54 hospitals. TheUniversity Medical Centre Hamburg-Eppendorf, with about 1,736 beds, houses a large medical school. There are also smaller private hospitals. On 1 January 2011 there were about 12,507 hospital beds.[150] The city had 5,663 physicians in private practice and 456 pharmacies in 2010.[151]

Transport

[edit]
Main article:Transport in Hamburg
ThePort of Hamburg on theriver Elbe
Baumwall station of theHamburg U-Bahn
Neue and Freihafen-Elbbrücke

Hamburg is a major transportation hub, connected to fourAutobahnen (motorways) and the most important railway junction on the route to Scandinavia.

Bridges and tunnels connect the northern and southern parts of the city, such as theold Elbe Tunnel (Alter Elbtunnel) or St. Pauli Elbtunnel (official name), which opened in 1911, today a major tourist sight, and theElbe Tunnel (Elbtunnel), the crossing of amotorway.[152]

Hamburg Airport is the oldest airport in Germany still in operation.[153][154] There is also the smallerHamburg Finkenwerder Airport, used only as a company airport forAirbus. Some airlines marketLübeck Airport inLübeck as serving Hamburg.[155]

Hamburg'slicence plate prefix was "HH" (Hansestadt Hamburg; English: Hanseatic City of Hamburg) between 1906 and 1945 and from 1956 onwards, rather than the single letter normally used for large cities since the federal registration reform in 1956, such as B for Berlin or M for Munich. "H" was Hamburg's prefix in the years between 1945 and 1947 (used byHanover since 1956).[156]

Public transport

[edit]
A map of the transit rail lines in Hamburg

Public transport by rail, bus, and ship is organised by theHamburger Verkehrsverbund ("Hamburg transit authority") (HVV). Tickets sold by one company are valid on all other HVV companies' services. The HVV was the first organisation of this kind worldwide.[157]

33 mass transit rail lines across the city are the backbone of public transport.[158] TheS-Bahn (commuter train system) comprises six lines and theU-Bahn four lines –U-Bahn is short forUntergrundbahn (underground railway). Approximately 41 km (25 mi) of 101 km (63 mi) of the U-Bahn is underground; most is on embankments or viaduct or at ground level. Older residents still speak of the system asHochbahn (elevated railway), also because the operating company of the subway is theHamburger Hochbahn. TheAKN railway connects satellite towns in Schleswig-Holstein to the city. On some routes regional trains of Germany's major railway companyDeutsche Bahn AG and the regionalmetronom trains may be used with an HVV ticket. Regional trains stop at various stations within city limits such as the four larger stations,Hauptbahnhof,Dammtor,Altona, andHarburg, as well as Hamburg Hasselbrook and Hamburg Bergedorf. Thetram system was opened in 1866 and shut down in 1978.[159]

Gaps in the rail network are filled by more than 669 bus routes, operated by single-deck two-, three- and four-axle diesel buses.[158] Hamburg has no trams ortrolleybuses, but has hydrogen-fuelled buses. The buses run frequently during working hours, with buses on theMetroBus routes running every ten minutes from 6 am to 9 pm. On special weekday night lines the intervals can be 30 minutes or more, while on normal days (Monday-Friday) normal buses stop running at night (some lines run 24 hours a day, every day of the year at least every half hour).[160]

There are eight ferry lines along theRiver Elbe, operated byHADAG, that fall under the aegis of the HVV. While mainly used by citizens and dock workers, they can also be used for sightseeing tours.[161]

AnAirbus A321 onfinal assembly line 3 in theAirbus Hamburg-Finkenwerder plant

The international airport serving Hamburg,Hamburg Airport Helmut Schmidt (IATA: HAM,ICAO: EDDH), is the fifth biggest and oldest airport in Germany, having been established in 1912 and located about 5 miles (8 kilometres) from the city centre. About 60 airlines provide service to 125 destination airports, including some long-distance destinations likeNewark, New Jersey onUnited Airlines,Dubai onEmirates, andTehran onIran Air. Hamburg is a secondary hub forLufthansa, which is the largest carrier at the airport, and the airline also operates one of its biggestLufthansa Technik maintenance facilities there. The second airport is located inHamburg-Finkenwerder, officially namedHamburg Finkenwerder Airport (IATA: XFW,ICAO: EDHI). It is about 10 km (6 mi) from the city centre and is a nonpublic airport for theAirbus plant. It is the second biggest Airbus plant, afterToulouse, and the third biggest aviation manufacturing plant afterSeattle and Toulouse; the plant houses the final assembly lines forA318, A319, A320, A321, andA380 aircraft.[162]

Public transportation statistics

The average amount of time people spend commuting with public transit in Hamburg, for example to and from work, on a weekday is 58 min. 16% of public transit riders, ride for more than two hours every day. The average amount of time people wait at a stop or station for public transit is 11 min, while 11% of riders wait for over 20 minutes on average every day. The average distance people usually ride in a single trip with public transit is 8.9 km, while 21% travel for over 12 km in a single direction.[163]

Utilities

[edit]

Electricity for Hamburg and Northern Germany is largely provided byVattenfall Europe, formerly the state-ownedHamburgische Electricitäts-Werke. Vattenfall Europe used to operate theBrunsbüttel Nuclear Power Plant andKrümmel Nuclear Power Plant, both taken out of service as part of thenuclear power phase-out. In addition,E.ON operates theBrokdorf Nuclear Power Plant, near Hamburg.There are also the coal-firedWedel,Tiefstack, and MoorburgCHP Plant, and the fuel-cell power plant in the HafenCity quarter.VERA Klärschlammverbrennung uses thebiosolids of the Hamburg wastewater treatment plant; thePumpspeicherwerk Geesthacht is a pump storage power plant and a solid waste combustion power station isMüllverwertung Borsigstraße.[164]

In June 2019, Hamburg introduced a law governing the phasing out of coal based thermal and electric energy production ("Kohleausstiegsgesetz").[165] This move was the result of negotiations between parliamentary parties and representatives of a campaign calledTschuess Kohle] ("Goodbye Coal"). In 2020, the city's Ministry for Environment and Energy announced a partnership withNamibia as a potential supplier of woody biomass, sourced through landscape maintenance in areas affected bywoody plant encroachment, to replace coal.[166]

Sports

[edit]
Main article:Sport in Hamburg
Hamburg City Man 2007 at the Binnenalster
Barclays Arena
Volksparkstadion

Hamburger SV is afootball team playing in the2. Bundesliga. HSV was six times German champion, three times winner of the German Cup, and triumphed in the European Cup in 1983, as well as having participated in the group stages of theChampions League twice: in 2000–01 and 2006–07. They play at theVolksparkstadion (average attendance in the12–13 season was 52,916). The HSV was the oldest team of the Bundesliga, playing in the league since its beginning in 1963, until a change of results saw them relegated from theBundesliga in 2018. In addition,FC St. Pauli is aBundesliga football club that came in second place in the2009–10 2. Bundesliga season and qualified to play alongsideHamburger SV in thefirst division for the first time since the2001–02 season. They are currently a division above HSV for the first time ever following promotion to theBundesliga in the2023-24 season. St. Pauli's home games take place at theMillerntor-Stadion.

TheHamburg Freezers represented Hamburg until 2016 in theDEL, the premierice hockey league in Germany.

HSV Handball represented Hamburg until 2016 in the Germanhandball league. In 2007, HSV Handball won the European Cupwinners Cup. The Club won the league in the 2010–11 season and had an average attendance of 10.690 in theO2 World Hamburg the same year. The most recent success for the team was theEHF Champions League win in 2013. Since 2014, the club has suffered from economic problems and was almost not allowed the playing licence for the 2014–15 season; but due to economic support from the former club president/sponsor Andreas Rudolf, the club was allowed the licence in the last minute. On 20 January 2016, however, their licence was removed due to violations following the continued economic struggles. In 2016–17, they were not allowed to play in the first or second league. The team lives on through their former second team (now their main team) in the third division (2016–2018) and in second division (since 2018).

TheBCJ Hamburg played in theBasketball Bundesliga from 1999 to 2001. Later, theHamburg Towers became the city's prime team. The Towers promoted to Germany's top division in 2019. In 2022, they already reached the playoffs. The Towers play their home games at theEdel-optics.de Arena inWilhelmsburg.

Hamburg is the nation'sfield hockey capital and dominates the men's as well as the women's Bundesliga. Hamburg hosts many top teams such as Uhlenhorster Hockey Club, Harvesterhuder Hockey Club, and Club An Der Alster.

TheHamburg Warriors are one of Germany's top lacrosse clubs.[167] The club has grown immensely in the last several years and includes at least one youth team, three men's, and two women's teams. The team participates in the Deutsch Lacrosse Verein. The Hamburg Warriors are part of the Harvestehuder Tennis- und Hockey-Club e.V (HTHC).[168]

Hamburg Blue Devils was one of the prominentAmerican Football teams playing inGerman Football League before its exit in 2017.[169]Hamburg Sea Devils is a team ofEuropean League of Football (ELF), which is a planned professional league, that is set to become the first fully professional league in Europe since the demise ofNFL Europe.[170] The Sea Devils will start playing games in June 2021.[171]

There are also theHamburg Dockers, anAustralian rules football club.[172] The FC St. Pauli team dominates women's rugby in Germany. Other first-league teams include VT Aurubis Hamburg (Volleyball) and Hamburger Polo Club.[173]Eimsbütteler TV plays in theGerman Women's 2 Volleyball Bundesliga. There are also several minority sports clubs, including fourcricket clubs.

Am Rothenbaum is the main tennis stadium of theInternational German Open.

The Centre Court of the TennisAm Rothenbaum venue, with a capacity of 13,200 people, is the largest in Germany.[174]

Hamburg also hostsequestrian events atReitstadionKlein Flottbek (Deutsches Derby in jumping and dressage) andHorner Rennbahn (Deutsches Derbyflat racing).[175] The city also owns theharness racing track "Trabrennbahn Bahrenfeld". The Hamburg Marathon is the biggestmarathon in Germany after Berlin's. In 2008, 23,230 participants were registered.[176] World Cup events in cycling, the UCI ProTour competitionEuroEyes Cyclassics, and thetriathlonITU World Cup eventHamburg City Man are also held in here.[177]

Volksparkstadion was used as a site for the2006 World Cup. In 2010 UEFA held the final of theUEFA Europa League in the arena.[178]

Hamburg made a bid for the2024 Olympic Games, but 51.7 percent of those city residents participating in areferendum in November 2015 voted against continuing Hamburg's bid to host the games. Meanwhile, Hamburg's partner cityKiel voted in favour of hosting the event, with almost 66 percent of all participants supporting the bid. Opponents of the bid had argued that hosting the 33rd Olympic Games would cost the city too much in public funds.[179]

Education

[edit]
See also:Education in Hamburg andEducation in Germany
The main building of the University of Hamburg
The University of Music and Theatre

The school system is managed by the Ministry of Schools and Vocational Training (Behörde für Schule und Berufsbildung). The system had approximately 191,148 students in 221 primary schools and 188 secondary schools in 2016.[180] There are 32 public libraries in Hamburg.[181]

Nineteen universities are located in Hamburg, with about 100,589 university students in total, including 9,000 resident students.[182] Six universities are public, including the largest, theUniversity of Hamburg (Universität Hamburg) with theUniversity Medical Center Hamburg-Eppendorf, theUniversity of Music and Theatre, theHamburg University of Applied Sciences, theHafenCity University Hamburg, and theHamburg University of Technology. Seven universities are private, like theBucerius Law School, theKühne Logistics University, and theHSBA Hamburg School of Business Administration. The city has also smaller private colleges and universities, including many religious and special-purpose institutions, such as theHelmut Schmidt University (formerly the University of the Federal Armed Forces Hamburg).[183]Hamburg is home to one of the oldest international schools in Germany, theInternational School of Hamburg.

Twin towns – sister cities

[edit]
See also:List of twin towns and sister cities in Germany

Hamburg istwinned with:[184]

Notable people

[edit]
Further information:Category:People from Hamburg

In Hamburg it's hard to find a native Hamburger. A hurried and superficial search turns up only crayfish, people fromPinneberg, and those fromBergedorf. One accompanies the contented little kippers of a striving society; mackerels fromStade, sole fromFinkenwerder, herrings fromCuxhaven swim in expectant throngs through the streets of my city and lobsters patrol the stock exchange with open claws.... The first so-called unguarded glance always lands on the bottom of the sea and falls into twilight of the aquarium.Heinrich Heine must have had the same experience when he tried, with his cultivated scorn and gifted melancholy, to find the people of Hamburg.

— Siegfried Lenz, inLeute von Hamburg (People of Hamburg)ISBN 978-3-423-11538-4.[185]
Portrait ofBarthold Heinrich Brockes
Painting ofFelix Mendelssohn Bartholdy, 1833
Portrait ofJohannes Brahms, 1899
Helmut Schmidt, 1977
Angela Merkel, 2013

See also

[edit]

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^German:Freie und Hansestadt Hamburg; Low Saxon:Friee un Hansestadt Hamborg

References

[edit]
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