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Guam

Coordinates:13°30′N144°48′E / 13.500°N 144.800°E /13.500; 144.800
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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
U.S. territory in Micronesia
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This article is about the U.S. territory. For the international organization, seeGUAM.

Unincorporated and organized U.S. territory in the United States
Guam
Guåhan (Chamorro)
Nickname(s): 
"Tånó y Chamoru" (Chamorro) (English:"Land of the Chamorro")
Motto: 
"Tånó I' Man Chamoru" (Chamorro)
(English:"Land of the Chamorros")
Anthem: "Stand Ye Guamanians" (regional)

"
The Star-Spangled Banner" (official)
Location of Guam
Location of Guam (circled in red)
Sovereign stateUnited States
Before annexationSpanish East Indies
Cession from SpainDecember 10, 1898
CapitalHagåtña
Largest cityDededo
Official languages
Ethnic groups
(2010)[1]
Religion
(2010)[2]
Demonym(s)Guamanian
GovernmentDevolved presidentialdependency within afederal republic
Donald Trump (R)
Lou Leon Guerrero (D)
Josh Tenorio (D)
LegislatureLegislature of Guam
United States Congress
James Moylan (R)
Area
• Total
210 sq mi (540 km2)
Highest elevation
1,335 ft (407 m)
Population
• 2021 estimate
168,801[1] (177th)
• Density
299/km2 (774.4/sq mi)
GDP (PPP)2016 estimate
• Total
$5.8 billion[1]
• Per capita
$35,600[1]
GDP (nominal)2019 estimate
• Total
$6.3 billion[3]
• Per capita
$37,387
HDI (2017)Increase 0.901
very high
CurrencyUnited States dollar (US$) (USD)
Time zoneUTC+10:00 (ChST)
Date formatmm/dd/yyyy
Driving sideRight
Calling code+1
USPS abbreviation
GU
ISO 3166 code
Internet TLD.gu
Websiteguam.gov

Guam (/ˈɡwɑːm/ GWAHM;Chamorro:Guåhan[ˈɡʷɑhɑn]) is an island that is anorganized, unincorporated territory of the United States in theMicronesia subregion of the westernPacific Ocean.[4][5] Guam's capital isHagåtña, and the most populous village isDededo. It is thewesternmost point and territory of the United States, as measured from thegeographic center of the U.S. InOceania, Guam is the largest and southernmost of theMariana Islands and the largest island inMicronesia. In 2022, its population was 168,801. Chamorros are its largest ethnic group, but a minority on the multiethnic island. The territory spans 210 square miles (540 km2; 130,000 acres) and has a population density of 775 per square mile (299/km2).

Indigenous Guamanians are theChamorro, who are related to theAustronesian peoples of theMalay Archipelago, thePhilippines,Taiwan, andPolynesia. Unlike most of its neighbors, theChamorro language is not classified as aMicronesian orPolynesian language. LikePalauan, it possibly constitutes an independent branch of theMalayo-Polynesian language family.[6][7] The Chamorro people settled Guam and the Mariana islands approximately 3,500 years ago. Portuguese explorerFerdinand Magellan, while in the service of Spain, was the first European to visit and claim the island in March 1521. Guam was fully colonized bySpain in 1668. Between the 17th and 19th centuries, Guam was an important stopover for SpanishManila galleons. During theSpanish–American War, the United Statescaptured Guam in June 1898. Under the 1898Treaty of Paris, Spain ceded Guam to the U.S. effective April 11, 1899.

BeforeWorld War II, Guam was one of five American jurisdictions in the Pacific Ocean, along withWake Island in Micronesia,American Samoa andHawaii in Polynesia, and the Philippines. On December 8, 1941, hours after theattack on Pearl Harbor,Guam was captured by theJapanese, whooccupied the island for two and a half years beforeAmerican forces recaptured it on July 21, 1944, which is commemorated there asLiberation Day.[8] Since the 1960s,Guam's economy has been supported primarily by tourism and theU.S. military, for which Guam is a major strategic asset.[9] Itsfuture political status has been a matter of significant discussion, with public opinion polls indicating a strong preference forAmerican statehood.[10][11]

Guam'sde facto motto is "Where America's Day Begins", which refers to the island's proximity to theInternational Date Line.[12][13] Guam is among the 17non-self-governing territories listed by the United Nations, and has been a member of thePacific Community since 1983.[14]

Guam is calledGuåhan by Chamorro speakers, from the wordguaha, meaning 'to have'. Its English gloss 'we have' references the island's providing everything needed to live.[15][16]

History

Main article:History of Guam

Pre-Contact era

Main article:Mariana Islands § Prehistory
A map showing theNeolithicAustronesian migrations into the islands of theIndo-Pacific

Guam and the otherMariana Islands were the first islands settled by humans inRemote Oceania. It was the first and the longest of the ocean-crossing voyages of theAustronesian peoples, and is separate from the laterPolynesian settlement of the rest of Remote Oceania. They were first settled around 1500 to 1400 BC, by migrants departing from thePhilippines. This was followed by a second migration from theCaroline Islands in the first millennium AD. A third migration wave took place fromIsland Southeast Asia, likely the Philippines or easternIndonesia, by 900 AD.[17][18]

These original settlers of Guam and theNorthern Mariana Islands evolved into theChamorro people, historically known as Chamorros after first contact with the Spaniards.[19]: 16  The ancient Chamorro society had four classes:chamorri (chiefs),matua (upper class),achaot (middle class), andmana'chang (lower class).[19]: 20–21  Thematua were located in the coastal villages, which meant they had the best access to fishing grounds. Themana'chang were located in the island's interior.Matua andmana'chang rarely communicated with each other. Thematua often usedachaot as intermediaries.[19]: 21 

There were also "makåhna" or "kakahna", shamans with magical powers and "'suruhånu" or "suruhåna", healers who used different kinds of plants and natural materials to make medicine. Belief in spirits of ancient Chamorros called "Taotao mo'na" still persists as a remnant of pre-European culture. It is believed that "suruhånu" or "suruhåna" are the only ones who can safely harvest plants and other natural materials from their homes or "hålomtåno" without incurring the wrath of the "Taotao mo'na." Their society was organized alongmatrilineal clans.[19]: 21 

The Chamorro people raised colonnades of megalithic capped pillars calledlatte stones upon which they built their homes. Latte stones are stone pillars that are found only in the Mariana Islands. They are a recent development in Pre-Contact Chamorro society. The latte stone was used as a foundation on which thatched huts were built.[19]: 26  Latte stones consist of a base shaped from limestone called thehaligi and with a capstone, ortåsa, made either from a large brain coral or limestone, placed on top.[19]: 27–28  A possible source for these stones, theRota Latte Stone Quarry, was discovered in 1925 onRota.[19]: 28 

Spanish era

Further information:Spanish–Chamorro Wars
The reception of theManila Galleon by theChamorro in theLadrones Islands,c. 1590Boxer Codex

The first European to travel to Guam was Portuguese navigatorFerdinand Magellan, sailing for theKing of Spain, when he sighted the island on March 6, 1521, during his fleet's circumnavigation of the globe.[19]: 41–42  Despite Magellan's visit, Guam was not officially claimed by Spain until January 26, 1565, byMiguel López de Legazpi.[19]: 46  From 1565 to 1815, Guam and the Northern Mariana Islands, the only Spanish outposts in the Pacific Ocean east of the Philippines, were reprovisioning stops for theManila galleons, a fleet that covered the Pacific trade route betweenAcapulco andManila.[19]: 51 

Spanish colonization commenced on June 15, 1668, with the arrival of a mission led byDiego Luis de San Vitores, who established the first Catholic church.[19]: 64  The islands were part of theSpanish East Indies, and part of theViceroyalty of New Spain, based inMexico City.[19]: 68  TheSpanish-Chamorro Wars on Guam began in 1670 over growing tensions with theJesuit mission, with the last large-scale uprising in 1683.[19]: 86 

1819 depiction of a group of Chamorus fishing for a village

Intermittent warfare, plus the typhoons of 1671 and 1693, and in particular thesmallpox epidemic of 1688, reduced the Chamorro population from 50,000 to 10,000, and finally to less than 5,000.[19]: 86  Up until the late 19th century, Guam was encountered by adventurers and pirates, includingThomas Cavendish,Olivier van Noort,John Eaton,William Dampier,Woodes Rogers,John Clipperton,George Shelvocke andWilliam "Bully" Hayes.

The island became a rest stop forwhalers starting in 1823.[19]: 145  A devastating typhoon struck the island on August 10, 1848, followed by a severe earthquake on January 25, 1849, which resulted in many refugees from theCaroline Islands, victims of a resultanttsunami.[19]: 151  This earthquake was much more powerful than the 8.2 one that occurred on August 8, 1993.[20] Aftera smallpox epidemic killed 3,644 Guamanians in 1856, Carolinians and Japanese were permitted to settle in the Marianas.[19]: 157 

American era

Further information:Capture of Guam
The main street ofHagåtñac. 1899–1900.

After almost four centuries as part of theKingdom of Spain, the United Statesoccupied the island following Spain's defeat in the 1898Spanish–American War, as part of theTreaty of Paris of 1898. Guam was transferred to theUnited States Navy control on December 23, 1898, byExecutive Order 108-A from 25th PresidentWilliam McKinley.[21]

TheU.S. Navy assumed administrative control, with Captain Richard P. Leary appointed as the first naval governor in 1899. This era marked the introduction of American governance structures and cultural influences to the island.[22]

The naval administration prioritized the development of Guam's infrastructure to support its strategic military position in thePacific. One notable project was the establishment of a coaling station to service naval vessels traveling betweenHawaii and thePhilippines. Additionally, efforts were made to improve the island's roads, sanitation systems, and public health facilities. Educational reforms were also introduced, including the establishment of public schools with English as the medium of instruction, aiming to assimilate the localChamorro population into American culture.[23]

Despite these developments, the Chamorro people faced significant challenges under the naval administration. Civil liberties were limited, and the local population had minimal input in governmental decisions. Recognizing these constraints, Chamorro leaders petitioned for U.S. citizenship and greater political autonomy as early as 1901, though these efforts were largely unsuccessful during this period.[23]

These advocacy efforts continued over the years, with Chamorro representatives seeking citizenship and self-governance. For instance, in 1936, delegates Baltazar J. Bordallo and Francisco B. Leon Guerrero traveled toWashington, D.C., to personally petition for Chamorro citizenship. Despite these persistent efforts, substantial political reforms were not achieved during this period.[24]

World War I

On December 10, 1914, theSMSCormoran, a German armedmerchant raider, was forced to seek port atApra Harbor after running short on coal after pursued by the Japanese.[25][26][27] The United States, which was neutral at the time refused to supply provisions sufficient for theCormoran to reach a German port, so the ship and her crew were interned until 1917.[28]

On the morning of April 7, 1917, word reached Guam by telegraph cable that theU.S. Congress had declared war on Germany. The NavalGovernor of Guam,Roy Campbell Smith, sent two officers to inform theCormoran that a state of war existed between the two countries, that the crew were nowprisoners of war, and that the ship must be surrendered. Meanwhile, theUSSSupply blocked the entrance to Apra Harbor to prevent any attempt to flee. In a separate boat, the two officers were accompanied by a barge commanded by Lt. W.A. Hall, who was designated prize master, and had brought 18 sailors and 15 Marines from the barracks atSumay.[29][30]

Seeing a launch fromCormoran hauling a barge of supplies back shore, Hall ordered shots fired across the bow of the launch until it hove to. Meanwhile, the two officers reachedCormoran and informed CaptainAdalbert Zuckschwerdt of the situation. Zuckschwerdt agreed to surrender his crew but refused to turn over the ship. The U.S. officers informed Zuckschwerdt that theCormoran would be treated as an enemy combatant and left to inform Governor Smith of the situation. Unbeknownst to the Americans, the Germans had secreted an explosive device in the ship's coal bunker.[31][32]

Minutes after the Americans left, an explosion aboardCormoran hurled debris across the harbor and her crew began abandoning ship. The two American boats and USSSupply immediately began to recover German sailors from the water, saving all but seven of the roughly 370Cormoran crew. This incident, including the warning shots against the launch, accounted for the first violent action of theUnited States in World War I, the first shots fired by the U.S. against Germany in World War I, the first German prisoners of war captured by the U.S., and the first Germans killed in action by the U.S. in World War I.[31][33]

World War II

U.S. Marines raise the American Flag over the Marine barracks, July 1944.

DuringWorld War II, theEmpire of Japan invaded and occupied Guam in the1941 Battle of Guam on December 8, at the same time as theattack on Pearl Harbor. The Japanese renamed GuamŌmiya-jima (Great Shrine Island). TheJapanese occupation of Guam lasted about 31 months. During this period, the indigenous people of Guam were subjected to beatings, forced labor, family separation, concentration camps, massacres, beheadings and rape.[34][35][36][37]

During the nearly three years of occupation approximately 1,100 Chamorros were killed, according to later USCongressional committee testimony in 2004. Some historians estimate that war violence killed 10% of Guam's 20,000 population.[37] The United States returned and recaptured the island in the1944 Battle of Guam from July 21 to August 10. July 21 became a territorial holiday,Liberation Day.

Post-war

After World War II, theGuam Organic Act of 1950 established Guam as anunincorporated organized territory of the United States, provided for the structure of the island's civilian government, and granted the people U.S. citizenship. However, the grant of citizenship did not include full civil and political rights. The Organic Act excluded the right to trial by jury, leading to further mobilization until the first jury trial in the territory was held in 1956.[38] The Governor of Guam was federally appointed until 1968 when theGuam Elective Governor Act provided for the office's popular election.[39]: 242  Since Guam is not a U.S. state, U.S. citizens residing on Guam are not allowed to vote for president and their only representation in the U.S. Congress is a non-voting member in the House of Representatives.[9] They do, however, vote for party delegates in presidential primaries.[40]

Japanese sergeantShoichi Yokoi spent 28 years in a self-dugcave in the jungle of Guam, where he hid to avoid capture by US forces in World War II.

In 1969,a referendum on unification with the Northern Mariana Islands was held and rejected.[41] In the 1970s,Maryly Van Leer Peck started an engineering program, expandedUniversity of Guam, and foundedGuam Community College.[42]: 17  In the same period,Alby Mangels, Australian adventurer and filmmaker ofWorld Safari visited Guam during his six-year escapade on the Pacific leg of his voyage aboard theKlaraborg.

In 1963, the removal of Guam's security clearance by President John F. Kennedy allowed for the development of a tourism industry. In the early 1990s, when the United States closedU.S. Naval Base Subic Bay andClark Air Base bases in thePhilippines after the expiration of their leases, many of the forces stationed there were relocated to Guam.[citation needed]

The1997 Asian financial crisis, which hit Japan particularly hard, severely affected Guam's tourism industry. Military cutbacks in the 1990s also disrupted the island's economy. Economic recovery was further hampered by devastation from super typhoonsPaka in 1997 andPongsona in 2002, as well as the effects of theSeptember 11 terrorist attacks and the crash ofKorean Air Flight 801 on tourism.[43]

Geography and environment

Main article:Geography of Guam
See also:Geology of Guam
A photograph of Guam from space captured byNASA's now decommissionedEarth observation satellite,Earth Observing-1 (EO-1), December 2011.

Guam is 30.17 miles (48.55 kilometers) long and 4 to 12 miles (6 to 19 kilometers) wide. It has an area of 212 square miles (549 square kilometers). It is the32nd largest island of the United States. It is the southernmost and largest island in theMariana Islands, as well as the largest inMicronesia.[44] Guam'sPoint Udall is thewesternmost point of the U.S., as measured from thegeographic center of the United States.[45][46]

The Mariana chain, of which Guam is a part, was created by collision of the Pacific and Philippine Seatectonic plates. Guam is located on the microMariana Plate between the two. Guam is the closest land mass to theMariana Trench, the deepsubduction zone that runs east of the Marianas. Volcanic eruptions establishedthe base of the island in theEocene, roughly 56 to 33.9 million years ago. The north of Guam is a result of this base being covered with layers ofcoral reef, turning intolimestone, and then being thrust upward bytectonic activity to create a plateau.[47]

The rugged south of the island is a result of more recent volcanic activity.Cocos Island off the southern tip of Guam is the largest of the many smallislets along the coastline. Guam's highest point isMount Lamlam at 1,334 feet (407 meters) above sea level.[47] If its base is considered to be the nearbyChallenger Deep, the deepest surveyed point in theOceans, Mount Lamlam is theworld's tallest mountain at 37,820 feet (11,530 m).[48][49]

Politically, Guam is divided into19 villages. The majority of the population lives on the coralline limestone plateaus of the north, with political and economic activity concentrated in the central and northern regions. The rugged geography of the south largely limits settlement to rural coastal areas. The western coast isleeward of thetrade winds and is the location ofApra Harbor, the capitalHagåtña, and the tourist center ofTumon. TheU.S. Defense Department owns about 29% of the island,[50] under the management ofJoint Region Marianas.

Climate

Further information:Climate change in Guam andList of typhoons in Guam
Guam National Wildlife Refuge beach atRitidian Point

Guam has atropical rainforest climate on theKöppen scale (KöppenAf). Its driest month of March almost qualifies as atropical monsoon climate (KöppenAm). The weather is generally hot and humid throughout the year, with little seasonal temperature variation. Guam is known to have equable temperatures year-round.Trade winds are fairly constant throughout the year. There is often a weak westerly monsoon influence in the summer months.

Guam has two distinct seasons: Wet season, and dry season. The dry season runs from January to May. June is the transitional period. The wet season runs from July to November. Guam's average annual rainfall was 98 inches or 2,490 millimeters between 1981 and 2010.

The wettest month on record at Guam Airport is August 1997, with 38.49 inches (977.6 mm). The driest was February 2015 with 0.15 inches (3.8 mm). The wettest calendar year was 1976 with 131.70 inches (3,345.2 mm). The driest year was in 1998 with 57.88 inches (1,470.2 mm). The most rainfall in a single day occurred on October 15, 1953, when 15.48 inches or 393.2 millimeters fell.

The mean high temperature is 86 °F or 30 °C. The mean low is 76 °F (24.4 °C). Temperatures rarely exceed 90 °F (32.2 °C) or fall below 70 °F (21.1 °C). Therelative humidity commonly exceeds 84 percent at night throughout the year, but the average monthly humidity hovers near 66 percent.[51]

The highest temperature ever recorded in Guam was 96 °F (35.6 °C) on April 18, 1971, and April 1, 1990.[51] A record low of 69 °F (21 °C) was set on February 1, 2021.[52] The lowest recorded temperature was 65 °F (18.3 °C), set on February 8, 1973.

Guam lies in the path oftyphoons[53] and it is common for the island to be threatened by tropical storms and possible typhoons in the wet season. The highest risk of typhoons is from August to November, where typhoons and tropical storms are most probable in the western Pacific. They can, however, occur year-round. Typhoons that have caused major damage on Guam in the American period include theTyphoon of 1900,Karen (1962),Pamela (1976),Paka (1997),Pongsona (2002), andMawar (2023).

SinceTyphoon Pamela in 1976, wooden structures have been largely replaced by concrete structures.[54][55] In the 1980s, wooden utility poles began to be replaced by typhoon-resistant concrete and steel poles. After the local Government enforced stricter construction codes, many home and business owners have built their structures out of reinforced concrete, with installedtyphoon shutters.

Climate data forGuam International Airport (1991–2020 normals, extremes 1945–present)
MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDecYear
Record high °F (°C)94
(34)
93
(34)
93
(34)
96
(36)
94
(34)
95
(35)
95
(35)
94
(34)
94
(34)
93
(34)
92
(33)
91
(33)
96
(36)
Mean maximum °F (°C)88.4
(31.3)
88.5
(31.4)
89.2
(31.8)
90.2
(32.3)
90.8
(32.7)
91.1
(32.8)
90.8
(32.7)
90.6
(32.6)
90.4
(32.4)
90.4
(32.4)
89.9
(32.2)
88.8
(31.6)
92.0
(33.3)
Mean daily maximum °F (°C)85.7
(29.8)
85.7
(29.8)
86.7
(30.4)
87.9
(31.1)
88.5
(31.4)
88.5
(31.4)
87.7
(30.9)
87.0
(30.6)
87.0
(30.6)
87.2
(30.7)
87.4
(30.8)
86.6
(30.3)
87.2
(30.7)
Daily mean °F (°C)80.3
(26.8)
80.1
(26.7)
81.0
(27.2)
82.3
(27.9)
83.0
(28.3)
83.1
(28.4)
82.2
(27.9)
81.5
(27.5)
81.5
(27.5)
81.7
(27.6)
82.2
(27.9)
81.6
(27.6)
81.7
(27.6)
Mean daily minimum °F (°C)75.0
(23.9)
74.6
(23.7)
75.4
(24.1)
76.7
(24.8)
77.5
(25.3)
77.7
(25.4)
76.8
(24.9)
76.1
(24.5)
76.0
(24.4)
76.3
(24.6)
77.0
(25.0)
76.5
(24.7)
76.3
(24.6)
Mean minimum °F (°C)71.6
(22.0)
71.4
(21.9)
71.9
(22.2)
73.3
(22.9)
74.1
(23.4)
74.6
(23.7)
73.8
(23.2)
73.4
(23.0)
73.3
(22.9)
73.4
(23.0)
73.9
(23.3)
73.3
(22.9)
70.2
(21.2)
Record low °F (°C)66
(19)
65
(18)
66
(19)
68
(20)
70
(21)
70
(21)
70
(21)
70
(21)
70
(21)
67
(19)
68
(20)
68
(20)
65
(18)
Averageprecipitation inches (mm)5.34
(136)
4.15
(105)
2.77
(70)
3.50
(89)
4.45
(113)
6.51
(165)
12.25
(311)
17.66
(449)
15.17
(385)
12.73
(323)
8.29
(211)
5.30
(135)
98.12
(2,492)
Average precipitation days(≥ 0.01 in)20.118.018.318.919.723.226.025.925.125.423.922.7267.2
Averagerelative humidity (%)83.781.983.182.082.782.787.388.788.888.386.683.084.9
Mean monthlysunshine hours176.0173.7216.4214.0219.9193.8156.1142.2132.7132.6135.0143.42,035.8
Percentagepossible sunshine50535857565039373636394146
Source:NOAA (relative humidity and sun 1961–1990)[56][57][58]

Ecology

Main article:Marianas tropical dry forests
Further information:List of endemic plants in the Mariana Islands;List of threatened, endangered and extinct species in the Mariana Islands;Invasive species in Guam;Climate change in Guam; andGuam National Wildlife Refuge
Hiking in Guam's limestone forest.

Guam is home to a diverse array of ecosystems,[59][60] including coral reefs,[61] deep seas, sea grasses,[62] beach strand, mangroves,[63] a variety of differentlimestone forest types,[64][65] volcanic forests and grasslands,[66]riparian systems, and caves.[67] There are approximately 17 species of plant that are endemic only to the island of Guam, and many more that areendemic to the Mariana Islands. Numerous endemic insects have been described.[68][69][70] There are approximately 29land snails listed as endemic to the island of Guam, although many are now endangered or presumed extinct.[71][72]

Guam once hosted 14 kinds of terrestrialbirds, 7 of which were endemic to Guam on the species or subspecies level, although all but one of the 14 are nowextinct, extirpated, or endangered.[73] Three locations on Guam (Guam National Wildlife Refuge,Cocos Island, and Mahlac Caves) have been identified asImportant Bird Areas (IBA) byBirdLife International because they support populations ofMicronesian starlings,Mariana swiftlets,Mariana crows, and Guam rails. TheGuam rail became the second bird species to ever be downlisted fromExtinct in the wild after a population was established on Cocos Island.[74] Guam was home to three native bat species: thelittle Mariana fruit bat (Pteropus tokudae), now extinct; the endangeredPacific sheath-tailed bat (Emballonura semicaudata rotensis); and the endangeredMariana fruit bat (Pteropus mariannus mariannus).

The introduction of thebrown tree snake nearly eradicated the native bird population.

Guam has experienced severe effects ofinvasive species upon the naturalbiodiversity of the island. These include thelocal extinction of endemic bird species after the introduction of thebrown tree snake, an infestation of thecoconut rhinoceros beetle destroyingcoconut palms, and the effect of introducedferalmammals andamphibians.

Wildfires plague the forested areas of Guam everydry season despite the island's humid climate. Most fires are caused by humans with 80% resulting fromarson.[75] Poachers often start fires to attract deer to the new growth. Invasive grass species that rely on fire as part of their natural life cycle grow in many regularly burned areas. Grasslands and "barrens" have replaced previously forested areas leading to greater soil erosion.[76]

During the rainy season, sediment is carried by the heavy rains into theFena Lake Reservoir andUgum River, leading to water quality problems for southern Guam. Eroded silt also destroys the marine life in reefs around the island. Soil stabilization efforts by volunteers and forestry workers planting trees have had little success in preserving natural habitats.[76]

Previously extensivelydredged,Tumon Bay is now a marine preserve.

Efforts have been made to protect Guam's coral reef habitats from pollution, eroded silt and overfishing, problems that have led to decreased fish populations. This has both ecological and economic value, as Guam is a significantvacation spot for scuba divers, and one study found that Guam's reefs are worthUS$127 million per year.[77] In recent years, the Department of Agriculture, Division of Aquatic and Wildlife Resources has established several new marine preserves where fish populations are monitored by biologists.[78] These are located atPati Point,Piti Bomb Holes,Sasa Bay, Achang Reef Flat, andTumon Bay.[79]

Before adoptingU.S. Environmental Protection Agency standards, portions of Tumon Bay were dredged by the hotel chains to provide a better experience for hotel guests.[80][81] Tumon Bay has since been made into a preserve. A federalGuam National Wildlife Refuge in northern Guam protects the decimatedsea turtle population in addition to a small colony ofMariana fruit bats.[82]

Harvest of sea turtle eggs was a common occurrence on Guam before World War II. Thegreen sea turtle (Chelonia mydas) was harvested legally on Guam before August 1978, when it was listed as threatened under the Endangered Species Act. Thehawksbill sea turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata) has been on the endangered list since 1970. In an effort to ensure the protection of sea turtles on Guam, routine sightings are counted during aerial surveys and nest sites are recorded and monitored for hatchlings.

Demographics

Historical population
CensusPop.Note
191011,806
192013,27512.4%
193018,50939.4%
194022,29020.4%
195059,498166.9%
196067,04412.7%
197084,99626.8%
1980105,97924.7%
1990133,15225.6%
2000154,80516.3%
2010159,3582.9%
2020168,4855.7%
Main article:Demographics of Guam

In the2020 United States census, the largest ethnic group were the nativeChamorros, accounting for 32.8% of the population.Asians, including Filipinos, Koreans, Chinese, and Japanese, accounted for 35.5% of the population. Other ethnic groups ofMicronesia, including those ofChuukese,Palauan, andPohnpeians, accounted for 13.2%. 10% of the population weremultiracial, (two or more races).European Americans made up 6.8% of the population. 1% areAfrican Americans. 3% areHispanic; there are 1,740Mexicans in Guam, and there are other Hispanic ethnicities on the island. The estimated interracial marriage rate is over 40%.[1]

The official languages of the island are English andChamorro. Unlike most of its neighboring languages, Chamorro is not classified asMicronesian orPolynesian. Rather, likePalauan, it possibly constitutes an independent branch of theMalayo-Polynesian language family.[6][7]Filipino is also commonly spoken across the island. Other Pacific and Asian languages are spoken in Guam as well.Spanish, which was the language of administration for 300 years, is no longer widely spoken, but has had a deep influence on theChamorro language.[83]

The predominant religion of Guam isChristianity. Three-quarters of the population adheres toCatholicism, while most of the remainder belong toProtestant churches. According to thePew Research Center, the religious demography of Guam in 2010 was as follows:[84]

In 2020, the Vatican claimed that 87.72% of the population was Catholic, with 54 priests and 64 nuns across 27 parishes.[85]

Culture

TheGuam Museum inHagåtña opened in 2016
Main article:Culture of Guam
Further information:Chamorro people andMusic of Guam

The culture of Guam is a reflection of traditionalChamorro customs, in combination with American, Spanish and Mexican traditions.[86] Post-European-contactChamorro Guamanian culture is a combination of American, Spanish, Filipino, other Micronesian Islander and Mexican traditions. Few indigenous pre-Hispanic customs remained following Spanish contact, but include plaiting and pottery. There has been a resurgence of interest among the Chamorro to preserve the language and culture.[87][88]

Hispanic influences are manifested in the local language, music, dance, sea navigation, cuisine, fishing, games (such asbatu,chonka,estuleks, andbayogu), songs, and fashion.[87][88] The island's original community are Chamorro natives, who have inhabited Guam for almost 4000 years.[89] They had their own language related to the languages of Indonesia and southeast Asia. The Spanish later called them Chamorros. A derivative of the word, Chamorri, means "noble race". They began to grow rice on the island.[90]

Youth performance of traditional dance atMicronesia Mall, 2012

Historically, the native people of Guam venerated the bones of their ancestors. They kept the skulls in their houses in small baskets, and practiced incantations before them when it was desired to attain certain objects.[91] During Spanish rule (1668–1898) the majority of the population was converted toCatholicism and religious festivities such as Easter and Christmas became widespread. Many Chamorros haveSpanish surnames, although few of the inhabitants are themselves descended from the Spaniards. Instead, Spanish names and surnames became commonplace after their conversion to Catholicism and the imposition of theCatálogo alfabético de apellidos in Guam.[92]

Historically, the diet of the native inhabitants of Guam consisted of fish, fowl, rice,breadfruit,taro,yams, bananas, and coconuts used in a variety of dishes.[93] Post-contact Chamorro cuisine is largely based on corn, and includes tortillas, tamales, atole, and chilaquiles, which are a clear influence fromMesoamerica, principally Mexico, from Spanish trade with Asia.[citation needed]

Due to foreign cultural influence from Spain, most aspects of the early indigenous culture have been lost, though there has been a resurgence in preserving any remaining pre-Hispanic culture in the last few decades. Some scholars have traveled throughout the Pacific Islands, conducting research to study what the original Chamorro cultural practices such as dance, language, and canoe building may have been like.[94]

Sports

Anoutrigger canoe team atTumon

Guam's most popular sport isAmerican football, followed bybasketball andbaseball respectively.Soccer,jiu-jitsu, andrugby are also somewhat popular.[95] Guam hosted thePacific Games in1975 and1999. At the2007 Games, Guam finished 7th of 22 countries in the medal count, and 14th at the2011 Games.

Guam men's national basketball team and thewomen's team are traditionally strong competitors in theOceania region, behind theAustralia men's national basketball team and theNew Zealand national basketball team. As of 2019[update], the men's team is the reigning champion of thePacific Games Basketball Tournament. Guam is home to various basketball organizations, including theGuam Basketball Association.[96][97]

TheGuam national football team was founded in 1975 and joinedFIFA in 1996. It was once considered one of FIFA's weakest teams, and experienced their first victory over a FIFA-registered side in 2009. Guam hosted qualifying games on the island for the first time in 2015 and, in 2018, gained their firstFIFA World Cup-qualifying win.[98] TheGuam national rugby union team played its first match in 2005 and has never qualified for aRugby World Cup.

As an aspect of cultural revival,sling competitions are also being organized on Guam. As a national pastime of cultural import, the ovoid shape on Guamanian flag is that of a sling stone.[99][100]

Economy

Beaches at the tourist center ofTumon
Main article:Economy of Guam
See also:Energy in Guam andUnderwater diving on Guam

Guam's economy depends primarily on tourism, Department of Defense installations and locally owned businesses. Under the provisions of a special law byCongress, it is Guam's treasury rather than the U.S. treasury that receives the federal income taxes paid by local taxpayers, including military and civilian federal employees assigned to Guam.[101]

Tourism

See also:Underwater diving on Guam
Tourist arrivals of 2024 in %[102]

Guam, situated in the western Pacific, has long been a favored destination for tourists, particularly fromJapan andSouth Korea. The island's tourism hub,Tumon, boasts over 20 large hotels, the Duty Free Shoppers Galleria, the Pleasure Island district, an indoor aquarium, Sandcastle Las Vegas–styled shows, and various shopping and entertainment venues. Additionally, Guam offers seven public golf courses, catering to a diverse range of visitors.[103]

Historically, Japanese tourists comprised a significant portion of Guam's visitors. In 2019, approximately 685,000 Japanese travelers visited the island. This number declined to around 135,760 in 2023, reflecting broader shifts in travel patterns and external factors affecting global tourism.[103][104][105] In recent years, South Korean tourists have become increasingly prominent. For instance, in May and June 2024, South Korean visitors accounted for over 51% of Guam's total arrivals, while Japanese tourists comprised over 21%. Other significant visitor groups include travelers from theUnited States mainland,Hawaii, thePhilippines, andTaiwan.[106]

TheCOVID-19 pandemic had a profound impact on Guam's tourism industry. In 2023, the island recorded approximately 656,000 visitor arrivals, a 50% decrease compared to 2013 figures. Despite these challenges, the industry has shown signs of recovery, with 775,000 passenger arrivals reported at theGuam International Airport during the 2024 fiscal year (October-July). While this indicated an upward trend, it remained below the pre-pandemic levels of 2019.[105]

Micronesia Mall

The tourism industry remains a cornerstone of Guam's economy, providing over 21,000 jobs, which constitute about one-third of the island's workforce. Major attractions contributing to the island's appeal include duty-free designer shopping outlets and American-style malls such asMicronesia Mall,Guam Premier Outlets,Agana Shopping Center, and the world's largest (and notably 1 of 4 remaining)Kmart.[107]

Budget and unemployment

In 2003, Guam had a 14% unemployment rate, and the government suffered a $314 million budget shortfall.[108] As of 2019 the unemployment rate had dropped to 6.1%. By September 2020, the unemployment rate had risen again to 17.9%.[109] As of June 2023 the unemployment rate had fallen to 4.0%.[110] The unemployment rate in Guam for September 2023 was 4.1%, an increase of 0.1 percentage points from the June 2023 figure of 4.0%, and a reduction of 0.3 percentage points from the September 2022 figure one year earlier of 4.4%.[111]

Pacific migration to Guam

TheCompacts of Free Association (COFA) between the United States, theFederated States of Micronesia, the Republic of theMarshall Islands, and the Republic ofPalau accords the former entities of theTrust Territory of the Pacific Islands a political status of "free association" with the United States. The Compacts generally allow citizens of these island nations to reside in the 50 United States, and in US territories. Many people from other Pacific islands were attracted to Guam due to its proximity, environmental, and cultural familiarity.

Due to the impact of increased utilization of public assistance programs due to immigration, aid has been provided to the nations receiving immigrants. In 2003, the amended COFA was enacted, which provided 30 million dollars annually to Guam, Hawaii,American Samoa and theNorthern Mariana Islands, as well as to forgive 157 million dollars of Guam's debt to the federal government to offset money already spent on public assistance programs.[112] In 2024, the COFA was amended again to renew aid the freely associated nations as well as Guam and other U.S. Pacific territories.[113]

Military bases

A map of U.S. military lands on Guam, 2010

Joint Region Marianas maintains jurisdiction over installations, which cover approximately 39,000 acres (16,000 ha), or 29% of the island's total land area. These include:

In 2010, the U.S. military proposed building a new aircraft carrier berth on Guam and moving 8,600 Marines, and 9,000 of their dependents, to Guam fromOkinawa, Japan. Including the required construction workers, this buildup would increase Guam's population by a total of 79,000, a 49% increase over its 2010 population of 160,000.[114]

In a February 2010 letter, theUnited States Environmental Protection Agency sharply criticized these plans because of a water shortfall, sewage problems and the impact on coral reefs.[115] In 2022, the Marine Corps decided to place 5,000 Marines on the island within the first half of the 2020s, with 1,300 already stationed on the base.[116]

Government and politics

Incumbent governorLou Leon Guerrero
See also:Politics of Guam,Voting in Guam,Political party strength in Guam, andGovernment of Guam

Guam is governed by a popularly electedgovernor and aunicameral 15-memberlegislature, whose members are known as senators. Its judiciary is overseen by theSupreme Court of Guam.

TheDistrict Court of Guam is the court of United States federal jurisdiction in the territory. Guam elects onedelegate to the United States House of Representatives, currently RepublicanJames Moylan. The delegate does not have a vote on the final passage of legislation, but is accorded a vote in committee, and the privilege to speak to the House.[9]

U.S. citizens in Guam vote in apresidential straw poll for their choice in the U.S. presidential general election, but since Guam has no votes in theElectoral College, the poll has no real effect. However, in sending delegates to the Republican and Democratic national conventions, Guam does have influence in the national presidential race. These delegates are elected by local partyconventions.[9]

Political status

James Moylan is theDelegate forGuam's at-large congressional district.

In the 1980s and early 1990s, there was a significant movement in favor of this U.S. territory becoming acommonwealth, which would give it a level of self-government similar toPuerto Rico and theNorthern Mariana Islands.[101] In a 1982plebiscite, voters indicated interest in seeking commonwealth status.[117] The federal government rejected the version of a commonwealth that the government of Guam proposed, because its clauses were incompatible with theTerritorial Clause (Art. IV, Sec. 3, cl. 2) of theU.S. Constitution.[citation needed][when?] Other movements advocate U.S. statehood for Guam, union with the state of Hawaii, or union with the Northern Mariana Islands as a single territory, or independence.[118]

The first Guam Constitutional Convention was funded by the 10th Guam Legislature and met from June 1, 1969, to June 29, 1970, with 43 elected delegates. The second Guam Constitutional Convention was convened on July 1, 1977, to create a constitution for Guam that would redefine the island's relationship with the US rather than merely modifying the existing relationship. The convention met periodically to October 31, 1977. Although approved at the federal level, the people of Guam overwhelmingly rejected the Constitution in a referendum held in August 1979, with 82% opposed. No new convention has been held pursuant to US congressional authority since 1979.[119]

In 1997, a Commission onDecolonization was established to educate the people of Guam about the political status options in its relationship with the U.S.: statehood, free association, and independence. The island has been considering another non-binding plebiscite on decolonization since 1998. The group was dormant for some years. In 2013, the commission began seeking funding to start a public education campaign. There were few subsequent developments until late 2016.[120]

In early December 2016, the Commission scheduled a series of education sessions in various villages about the current status of Guam's relationship with the U.S. and the self-determination options that might be considered.[120] The commission's current executive director is Edward Alvarez and there are ten members. The group is expected to release position papers on independence and statehood but the contents have not yet been completed.[118]

TheUnited Nations is in favor of greater self-determination for Guam and other such territories. The UN'sSpecial Committee on Decolonization has agreed to endorse the Governor's education plan. The commission's May 2016 report states: "With academics from the University of Guam, [the Commission] was working to create and approve educational materials. The Office of the Governor was collaborating closely with the Commission" in developing educational materials for the public.[121]

TheUnited States Department of the Interior approved a $300,000 grant for decolonization education, Edward Alvarez told the United Nations Pacific Regional Seminar in May 2016. "We are hopeful that this might indicate a shift in [United States] policy to its Non-Self-Governing Territories such as Guam, where they will be more willing to engage in discussions about our future and offer true support to help push us towards true self-governances and self-determination."[122]

In July 2020, theGovernment of Guam joined theUnrepresented Nations and Peoples Organization (UNPO).[123][124]

Itsfuture political status has been a matter of significant discussion, with public opinion polls indicating a strong preference of becoming aU.S state.[10][11]

Villages

Hagåtña from the Spanish-builtFort Santa Agueda
Main article:Villages of Guam
See also:List of census-designated places in Guam

Guam is divided into 19 municipal villages:

The entirety of Guam is treated as both a territory and acounty equivalent by theUS Census. TheUSGS counts the villages as county equivalents.[125]

Transportation and communications

Main articles:Communications in Guam andTransportation in Guam
A Guam Highway 8 route marker

Most of the island has state-of-the-art mobile phone services and high-speed internet widely available through either cable orDSL. Guam was added to theNorth American Numbering Plan (NANP) in 1997. The country code 671 became NANParea code 671.[126] This removed the barrier of high-cost international long-distance calls to thecontinental U.S.

Guam is a major hub forsubmarine communications cables between the Western U.S., Hawaii, Australia and Asia. Guam currently serves twelve submarine cables, with most continuing to China. In 2012Slate stated that the island has "tremendous bandwidth" and internet prices comparable to those of the U.S. Mainland due to being at the junction of undersea cables.[127]

In 1899, the local postage stamps were overprinted "Guam" as was done for the other former Spanish colonies, but this was discontinued shortly thereafter and regular U.S. postage stamps have been used ever since. Guam is part of the U.S. Postal System (postal abbreviation: GU,ZIP code range: 96910–96932). Mail to Guam from the U.S. mainland is considered domestic and no additional charges are required. Private shipping companies, such as FedEx, UPS, and DHL have no obligation to do so, and do not regard Guam as domestic.

The speed of mail traveling between Guam and the states varies depending on size and time of year. Light, first-class items generally take less than a week to or from the mainland. Larger first-class or Priority items can take a week or two. Fourth-class mail, such as magazines, are transported by sea after reaching Hawaii. Most residents use post office boxes or private mail boxes, although residential delivery is becoming increasingly available.

Construction at thePort of Guam, 2014

ThePort of Guam is the island's lifeline, because most products must be shipped into Guam for consumers. It receives the weekly calls of the Hawaii-based shipping lineMatson, Inc. whose container ships connect Guam with Honolulu, Hawaii; Los Angeles, California; Oakland, California; and Seattle, Washington. The port is also the regional transhipment hub for over 500,000 customers throughout the Micronesian region. The port is the shipping and receiving point for containers designated for the island's U.S. Department of Defense installations, Andersen Air Force Base and Commander, Naval Forces Marianas and eventually the Third Marine Expeditionary Force.

Guam is served by theAntonio B. Won Pat International Airport. The island is outside the United States customs zone,[128] so Guam is responsible for establishing and operating its own customs and quarantine agency and jurisdiction.[129][130][131][132] Therefore, theU.S. Customs and Border Protection only carries out immigration, but not customs functions. Since Guam is under federal immigration jurisdiction, passengers arriving directly from the United States skip immigration and proceed directly to Guam Customs and Quarantine.

Due to theGuam and CNMI visa waiver program for certain countries, an eligibility pre-clearance check is carried on Guam for flights to the States. For travel from the Northern Mariana Islands to Guam, a pre-flight passport and visa check is performed before boarding the flight to Guam. On flights from Guam to the NorthernMariana Islands, no immigration check is performed. Traveling between Guam and the States through a foreign point requires a passport.

Most residents travel within Guam using personally owned vehicles. TheGuam Regional Transit Authority provides fixed route bus and paratransit services, and some commercial companies operate buses between tourist-frequented locations.

Education

See also:List of schools in Guam
TheUmatac Outdoor Library, built in 1933, was the first library in southern Guam.

Guam Public Library System operates the Nieves M. Flores Memorial Library inHagåtña and five branch libraries.[133]

TheGuam Department of Education serves the entire island of Guam. In 2000, 32,000 students attended Guam's public schools, including 26 elementary schools, eight middle schools, and six high schools and alternative schools. Guam Public Schools have struggled with problems such as high dropout rates and poor test scores.[134][135]

Guam's educational system has always faced unique challenges as a small community located 6,000 miles (9,700 km) from the U.S. mainland with a very diverse student body including many students who come from backgrounds without traditional American education.[136] An economic downturn in Guam since the mid-1990s has compounded the problems in schools.[137]

Before September 1997, theU.S. Department of Defense partnered with the Guam Board of Education.[138] In September 1997, theDepartment of Defense Education Activity (DoDEA) opened its own schools for children of military personnel.[139] DoDEA schools, which also serve children of some federal civilian employees, had an attendance of 2,500 in 2000. DoDEA Guam operates three elementary/middle schools andone high school.[140]

TheUniversity of Guam (UOG) andGuam Community College, both fully accredited by theWestern Association of Schools and Colleges, offer courses in higher education.[141] UOG is a member of the exclusive group of only 106land-grant institutions in the entire United States.Pacific Islands University is a small Christian liberal arts institution, nationally accredited by theTransnational Association of Christian Colleges and Schools.

Health care

Further information:2020 coronavirus pandemic in Guam

The Government of Guam maintains the island's main health care facility,Guam Memorial Hospital, inTamuning.[142] U.S. board certified doctors and dentists practice in all specialties. TheU.S. Naval Hospital inAgana Heights serves active-duty members and dependents of the military community.[143]

There is one subscriber-basedair ambulance located on the island, CareJet, which provides emergency patient transportation across Guam and surrounding islands.[144] A private hospital, theGuam Regional Medical City, opened in early 2016.[145] Medicaid is accepted in Guam.[146]

See also

Notes

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Works cited

Further reading

  • Maga, Timothy P. (1988).Defending Paradise: The United States and Guam, 1898–1950. Garland.
  • Rogers, Robert F. (1995).Destiny's Landfall: A History of Guam. University of Hawaii Press.
  • Spear, Jane E. (2014)."Guamanian Americans". In Riggs, Thomas (ed.).Gale Encyclopedia of Multicultural America. Vol. 2 (3rd ed.). Gale. pp. 263–273.

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