Grosgrain (/ˈɡroʊɡreɪn/GROH-grayn,[1] also sometimes/ˈɡrɒsɡreɪn/GROS-grayn), or grogram, is a type of fabric or ribbon defined by the fact that itsweft is heavier than itswarp, creating prominent transverse ribs. Grosgrain is aplain weave corded[a] fabric, with heavier cords thanpoplin but lighter thanfaille,[2][3] and is known for being a firm, close-woven, fine-corded fabric.[4] Grosgrain has a dull appearance, with little luster in comparison to many fabric weaves, such assatin, often used for ribbons; however, it is comparatively very strong.[5] Grosgrain fabric is most commonly available in black, but grosgrainribbon comes in a large variety of colors and patterns. The ribbon is very similar toPetersham ribbon in its appearance, but it does not have the ability to follow the curves of a surface or edge the way that the latter does.
"Grosgrain" is commonly used to refer to a heavy, stiff ribbon ofsilk ornylon[6] woven viataffeta weave using a heavy weft, which results in distinct transverse ribs. Historically, grosgrain was made fromwool,silk, or a combination of fibers such as silk and wool or silk andmohair.[2] When a combination of fibers was used, the result was sometimes given the namegrogram,silk mohair,gros de Tours orgros de Naples.[2][7][8]
Grosgrain is both a directFrenchloan word and a folk corruption of the French wordgrogram.[9] Grogram, originallygros gram (appeared in literature in 1562),[citation needed] is defined as a coarse, loosely woven fabric ofsilk, silk andmohair, or silk andwool.[10] The adjectivegros means thick or coarse, originally from theOld Frenchgros, itself derived from theLatingrossus.[11]Grain is derived from Old Frenchgraine, itself derived from the Latingrana (plural ofgranum) – seed or in some contextstexture.[4][12]
Thusgros gram,grogram andgrosgrain are all one and the same: a large grain - hence coarse - texture fabric.[11][13]
The termgrog, meaning alcohol, is related to the termgrogram. In the 1740s, AdmiralEdward Vernon, who was known as "Old Grog" because of the grogram cloak he wore, introduced therum ration in the BritishRoyal Navy. It is from his attire that the naval termgrog is derived.[14][15][16][17]
Moire is a waved or watered effect produced especially on grosgrain silk and woolen moreen via engraved rollers and high pressure on carded material. The result is a peculiar luster which works best when made from a corded fabric like grosgrain.[18]
During theMiddle Ages, moire was held in high esteem and was, as currently, used for women's dresses, for capes, and for facings, trimmings, etc.[19]
Throughout the 17th century, grosgrainfabric was used as the fabricbody (corpus) for many garments, including waistcoats, jackets, petticoats, breeches, sleeves, jerkins and many other items of clothing, as a cheaper alternative for the lower socio-economic demographic than fine-woven silk or wool.[20] Factories in America started to produce grosgrain silk in the late 19th century.[21][22]
Throughout the 1920s, the termgrosgrain seems to have remained true to original definition as a garment fabric.[23] However, during the 1920s, it fell out of favor as a garment fabric, and was defined identically to contemporary terminology as a grosgrainribbon.
Lustrous grosgrain is used extensively to join female semi-detached clothing articles such as bodices to skirts and similar, where this necessary joint may be visible.[24] Ribbed grosgrain may be used similarly totwill tape for internalgussets and reinforcements. Grosgrain ribbon is often used for facings and for waistbands.[25][26] McCall'sSewing Book states: "grosgrain ribbon is used with any heavy fabric to reduce bulk", though it may be the word "bulk" is used in the sense of outward appearance, rather than actualmass. McCall elaborates: "grosgrain is used to finish the back of novelty braid or to face the back of any fabric belt."[25][26][27]
As a more subtle option tolustroussatin, grosgrain is very popular with evening wear, used on thefacings of lapels of mostdress coats and high-enddinner jackets andtuxedos. Grosgrain is traditionally used tohem and highlight thecut oflapels,collars and visible outermost edges of the formalfrock coat and the latermorning coat.[28] Grosgrain is preferred over satin for practicality—it is more durable than silk or satin, as the fabric does not snag as easily.[29] Grosgrain is also used for matching accessories such asbow ties[29] andcummerbunds, though these are often inbarathea to complement the main suiting.
Grosgrain is also used inmillinery. Grosgrain ribbons are popular for use in ribbon decorations forhats, however, grosgrain is most notably used intop hats, fedora hats, andopera hats, or as the trimming band on theHomburg.[30]
Grosgrain fabric and ribbon are common structural fabrics for the joining or reinforcement ofspines orsheaves in fine commercial and hobbybookbinding and book restoration.[31]
When it comes to graduation leis, various types of ribbons can be used to create decorative accents and secure the flowers or other elements together. Grosgrain ribbon has a ribbed texture and is slightly thicker thansatin ribbon. It provides a more textured and structured appearance to the lei. Grosgrain ribbon is available in various colors and patterns.[32]
A particular characteristic of grosgrain ribbon is that the thicker weft resists longitudinal curling, and so it exerts an even pressure when tied around crushable materials.Nylon grosgrain is often used as heavy-dutywebbing or binding around luggage, packs,messenger bags and other heavy-use "soft" goods. It is also used for securingcargo. It can be dyed and is available in a variety of colours, though it is typically dyed black.
Early seat belts and military webbing duringWorld War II was typically made ofhemp,jute orlinen grosgrain.
Grosgrain made out of cotton or low-costsynthetic fibres such aspolyester are very common for gift-wrap ribbons, or for decorating and ornamenting scrapbooks and greeting cards. Grosgrain ribbon is used for a variety of different crafts as well, from bead making,[6] to book-binding,[31] trimming or embellishing,[33] as well as a multitude of other uses. Grosgrain ribbon is the primary ribbon material used in the hair bow industry.[citation needed]
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Grosgrain woven from cotton or low-cost synthetic fibres such aspolyester are very popular for use aslanyard, straps, and are often sold printed for use by large corporate companies as a marketing or branding tool.
Polyester grosgrain in a5⁄8 in (16 mm) width can be used as the tensioning material attaching the snares of a snare drum to the throw-off mechanism, with the ribbing providing good insurance against slippage. Some musicians use it in an attempt to lessen sympathetic snare buzz from external sources, as it will hold the tab ends of the snares closer to the head than string, providing more damping than mylar straps.
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