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Influid dynamics,gravity waves are waves in afluid medium or at theinterface between two media when theforce ofgravity orbuoyancy tries to restore equilibrium. An example of such an interface is that between theatmosphere and theocean, which gives rise towind waves.
A gravity wave results when fluid is displaced from a position ofequilibrium. The restoration of the fluid to equilibrium will produce a movement of the fluid back and forth, called awave orbit.[1] Gravity waves on an air–sea interface of the ocean are calledsurface gravity waves (a type ofsurface wave), while gravity waves that arewithin the body of the water (such as between parts of different densities) are calledinternal waves.Wind-generated waves on the water surface are examples of gravity waves, as aretsunamis, oceantides, and thewakes of surface vessels.
The period of wind-generated gravity waves on thefree surface of the Earth's ponds, lakes, seas and oceans are predominantly between 0.3 and 30 seconds (corresponding to frequencies between 3 Hz and .03 Hz). Shorter waves are also affected bysurface tension and are calledgravity–capillary waves and (if hardly influenced by gravity)capillary waves. Alternatively, so-calledinfragravity waves, which are due tosubharmonicnonlinear wave interaction with the wind waves, have periods longer than the accompanying wind-generated waves.[2]
In theEarth's atmosphere, gravity waves are a mechanism that produce the transfer ofmomentum from thetroposphere to thestratosphere andmesosphere. Gravity waves are generated in the troposphere byfrontal systems or by airflow overmountains. At first, waves propagate through the atmosphere without appreciable change inmeanvelocity. But as the waves reach more rarefied (thin) air at higheraltitudes, theiramplitude increases, andnonlinear effects cause the waves to break, transferring their momentum to the mean flow. This transfer of momentum is responsible for the forcing of the many large-scale dynamical features of the atmosphere. For example, this momentum transfer is partly responsible for the driving of theQuasi-Biennial Oscillation, and in themesosphere, it is thought to be the major driving force of the Semi-Annual Oscillation. Thus, this process plays a key role in thedynamics of the middleatmosphere.[3]
The effect of gravity waves in clouds can look likealtostratus undulatus clouds, and are sometimes confused with them, but the formation mechanism is different.[citation needed] Atmospheric gravity waves reachingionosphere are responsible for the generation of traveling ionospheric disturbances and could be observed byradars.[4]
Thephase velocity of a linear gravity wave withwavenumber is given by the formula
whereg is the acceleration due to gravity. When surface tension is important, this is modified to
whereσ is the surface tension coefficient andρ is the density.
The gravity wave represents a perturbation around a stationary state, in which there is no velocity. Thus, the perturbation introduced to the system is described by a velocity field of infinitesimally small amplitude, Because the fluid is assumed incompressible, this velocity field has thestreamfunction representation
where the subscripts indicatepartial derivatives. In this derivation it suffices to work in two dimensions, where gravity points in the negativez-direction. Next, in an initially stationary incompressible fluid, there is no vorticity, and the fluid staysirrotational, hence In the streamfunction representation, Next, because of the translational invariance of the system in thex-direction, it is possible to make theansatz
wherek is a spatial wavenumber. Thus, the problem reduces to solving the equation
We work in a sea of infinite depth, so the boundary condition is at The undisturbed surface is at, and the disturbed or wavy surface is at where is small in magnitude. If no fluid is to leak out of the bottom, we must have the condition
Hence, on, whereA and the wave speedc are constants to be determined from conditions at the interface.
The free-surface condition: At the free surface, the kinematic condition holds:
Linearizing, this is simply
where the velocity is linearized on to the surface Using the normal-mode and streamfunction representations, this condition is, the second interfacial condition.
Pressure relation across the interface: For the case withsurface tension, the pressure difference over the interface at is given by theYoung–Laplace equation:
whereσ is the surface tension andκ is thecurvature of the interface, which in a linear approximation is
Thus,
However, this condition refers to the total pressure (base+perturbed), thus
(As usual, The perturbed quantities can be linearized onto the surfacez=0.) Usinghydrostatic balance, in the form
this becomes
The perturbed pressures are evaluated in terms of streamfunctions, using the horizontal momentum equation of the linearisedEuler equations for the perturbations,
to yield
Putting this last equation and the jump condition together,
Substituting the second interfacial condition and using the normal-mode representation, this relation becomes
Using the solution, this gives
Since is the phase speed in terms of the angular frequency and the wavenumber, the gravity wave angular frequency can be expressed as
Thegroup velocity of a wave (that is, the speed at which a wave packet travels) is given by
and thus for a gravity wave,
The group velocity is one half the phase velocity. A wave in which the group and phase velocities differ is called dispersive.
Gravity waves traveling in shallow water (where the depth is much less than the wavelength), arenondispersive: the phase and group velocities are identical and independent of wavelength and frequency. When the water depth ish,
Wind waves, as their name suggests, are generated by wind transferring energy from the atmosphere to the ocean's surface, andcapillary-gravity waves play an essential role in this effect. There are two distinct mechanisms involved, called after their proponents, Phillips and Miles.
In the work of Phillips,[5] the ocean surface is imagined to be initially flat (glassy), and aturbulent wind blows over the surface. When a flow is turbulent, one observes a randomly fluctuating velocity field superimposed on a mean flow (contrast with a laminar flow, in which the fluid motion is ordered and smooth). The fluctuating velocity field gives rise to fluctuatingstresses (both tangential and normal) that act on the air-water interface. The normal stress, or fluctuating pressure acts as a forcing term (much like pushing a swing introduces a forcing term). If the frequency and wavenumber of this forcing term match a mode of vibration of the capillary-gravity wave (as derived above), then there is aresonance, and the wave grows in amplitude. As with other resonance effects, the amplitude of this wave grows linearly with time.
The air-water interface is now endowed with a surface roughness due to the capillary-gravity waves, and a second phase of wave growth takes place. A wave established on the surface either spontaneously as described above, or in laboratory conditions, interacts with the turbulent mean flow in a manner described by Miles.[6] This is the so-called critical-layer mechanism. Acritical layer forms at a height where the wave speedc equals the mean turbulent flowU. As the flow is turbulent, its mean profile is logarithmic, and its second derivative is thus negative. This is precisely the condition for the mean flow to impart its energy to the interface through the critical layer. This supply of energy to the interface is destabilizing and causes the amplitude of the wave on the interface to grow in time. As in other examples of linear instability, the growth rate of the disturbance in this phase is exponential in time.
ThisMiles–Phillips Mechanism process can continue until an equilibrium is reached, or until the wind stops transferring energy to the waves (i.e., blowing them along) or when they run out of ocean distance, also known asfetch length.
Surface gravity waves have been recognized as a powerful tool for studying analog gravity models, providing experimental platforms for phenomena typically found in black hole physics. In an experiment, surface gravity waves were utilized to simulate phase space horizons, akin to event horizons of black holes. This experiment observed logarithmic phase singularities, which are central to phenomena like Hawking radiation, and the emergence of Fermi-Dirac distributions, which parallel quantum mechanical systems.[7]
By propagating surface gravity water waves, researchers were able to recreate the energy wave functions of an inverted harmonic oscillator, a system that serves as an analog for black hole physics. The experiment demonstrated how the free evolution of these classical waves in a controlled laboratory environment can reveal the formation of horizons and singularities, shedding light on fundamental aspects of gravitational theories and quantum mechanics.