Skirt made of long stems of grass bound to a waistband
Traditional Māori wood carved figure with pāua shell eyes and apiupiu (flax garment worn around the waist), and a tiki. Alongside is a display of weapons and cloaks. Photograph taken byAlbert Percy Godber circa 1900
Agrass skirt is acostume andgarment made with layers of plant fibres such as grasses and leaves that is fastened at the waistline.[1][2]
Grass skirts were introduced to Hawaii by immigrants from theGilbert Islands around the 1870s to 1880s[3] although their origins are attributed toSamoa as well.[4][5]According to DeSoto Brown, a historian at theBishop Museum in Honolulu, it is likely Hawaiian dancers began wearing them during their performances on thevaudeville circuit of theUnited States mainland. Traditional Hawaiian skirts were often made with freshti leaves, which were not available in the United States. By the turn of the century, Hawaiian dancers in both Hawaii and the US were wearing grass skirts. Some Hawaiian-style hula dancers still wear them.[3] The traditional costume of Hawaiianhula kahiko includeskapa cloth skirts and men in malo (loincloth). However, during the 1880shula ‘auana was developed from western influences. It is during this period that the grass skirt began to be seen everywhere althoughhula ‘auana costumes usually included more western looking clothing with fabric-topped dresses for women and pants for men.[6] The use of the grass skirt was present in the 1893World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago where Hawaiian hula dancers played into American stereotypes by wearing the costume.[7]
From the late 19th-century toWorld War II, grass skirts inPolynesia became a "powerful symbol of South Sea sexuality".[7][8] In thePacific theater, grass skirts were sought after souvenirs by servicemen abroad.[9] The end of the war saw many sailors returning from their duties in the Pacific. Polynesian culture had begun to take root in the US through such things asJames A. Michener'sTales of the South Pacific and its subsequent musical and film adaption, as well asDon the Beachcomber opening in Hollywood. The war had helped to create a national interest in Polynesian food and décor.[10][11] The tiki culture continued, spurred on byHawaii's statehood in 1959 and Disney's opening of theEnchanted Tiki Room in 1963 as well as popular film and television shows like "Hawaiian Eye" in 1959 andElvis Presley'sBlue Hawaii in 1961.[10][11]
InFijian culture, both women and men traditionally wore skirts called theliku made fromhibiscus or root fibers and grass.[12][13] InMāori culture there is a skirt-like garment made up of numerous strands of preparedflax fibres, woven or plaited, known as apiupiu which is worn duringMāori cultural dance.[14] InNauru culture the native dress of both sexes consists of aridi, a bushy skirt composed of thin strips ofpandanus palm-leaf that can be both short, knee- and foot-long.[15][16][17] InTonga, the grass skirt was known as asisi pueka and was worn in dance performances.[9]
![Kini Kapahu Wilson and fellow hula dancer wearing grass skirts at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago[7][19]](/mt/?noimg=&dark=on&url=http%3a%2f%2fen.wikipedia.org%2fwiki%2fFile%3aKini_Kapahu_and_her_fellow_hula_dancer_at_the_Midway_Plaisance_at_the_World%25E2%2580%2599s_Columbian_Exhibition%2c_Chicago%2c_1893.jpg)
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