The sovereignty of Gibraltar is a point of contention inAnglo-Spanish relations as Spain assertsa claim to the territory.[13][14] Gibraltarians overwhelmingly rejected proposals for Spanish sovereignty in a1967 referendum, and for shared sovereignty in a2002 referendum.[15][16] Nevertheless, Gibraltar maintains close economic and cultural links with Spain, with many Gibraltarians speaking Spanish as well as a local dialect known asLlanito.[17][18][19]
Gibraltar's economy rests on financial services,e-gaming, tourism and the port.[20] With one of the world's lowest unemployment rates, the largest part of the labour force are resident in Spain or non-Gibraltarians, especially in the private sector. SinceBrexit, Gibraltar is not a member of theEuropean Union, but negotiations are under way to have it participate in theSchengen Agreement to facilitate border movements between Gibraltar and Spain.[21] In June 2025, the United Kingdom, Spain and the European Union reached a preliminary political agreement to eliminate all physical border and customs inspections between Gibraltar and Spain. According to the agreement, thePolicía Nacional will carry out Schengen passport checks at Gibraltar's port and airport together with Gibraltar authorities, while theland border will be completely open to both people and goods. The agreement further provides for joint Gibraltarian–Spanish collaboration on customs, indirect taxes such as tobacco and anti-money laundering efforts, including commitments to fair competition in taxation, state aid and labour. It also affirms that British sovereignty remains legally intact despitede facto Spanish administration of Gibraltar's borders.[22][23][24] A final treaty for ratification is pending further negotiations.[25]
View of the northern face of theMoorish Castle's Tower of Homage
Prehistory and ancient history
Evidence ofNeanderthal habitation in Gibraltar from around 50,000 years ago has been discovered atGorham's Cave.[27] The caves of Gibraltar continued to be used byHomo sapiens after the final extinction of the Neanderthals. Stone tools, ancient hearths and animal bones dating from around 40,000 years ago to about 5,000 years ago have been found in deposits left in Gorham's Cave.[28]
Numerouspotsherds dating from theNeolithic period have been found in Gibraltar's caves, mostly of types typical of theAlmerian culture found elsewhere inAndalusia, especially around the town ofAlmería, from which it takes its name.[29] There is little evidence of habitation in theBronze Age when people had largely stopped living in caves.[30]
During ancient times, Gibraltar was regarded by the peoples of the Mediterranean as a place of religious and symbolic importance. ThePhoenicians were present for several centuries since around 950 BC, apparently using Gorham's Cave as a shrine to thegenius loci,[31] as did theCarthaginians andRomans after them. Gibraltar was known asMons Calpe, a name perhaps of Phoenician origin.[16]Mons Calpe was considered by the ancient Greeks and Romans as one of thePillars of Hercules, after theGreek legend of the creation of theStrait of Gibraltar byHeracles. There is no known archaeological evidence of permanent settlements from the ancient period.[32] They settled at the head of the bay in theCampo (hinterland) of Gibraltar.[33] The town ofCarteia, near the location of the modern Spanish town ofSan Roque, was founded by the Phoenicians around 950 BC on the site of an early settlement of the nativeTurdetani people.[34]
Middle Ages
The area of Gibraltar later formed part of theVisigothic Kingdom ofHispania for almost 300 years, from 418 until 720 AD.[35]
Following a raid in 710, a predominantly Berber army under the command ofTariq ibn Ziyad crossed from North Africa in April 711 and landed somewhere in the vicinity of Gibraltar (though most likely not in the bay or at the Rock itself).[36][37] Tariq's expedition led to theIslamic conquest of most of the Iberian peninsula.[38][39]Mons Calpe was renamedJabal Ṭāriq (جبل طارق), "the Mount of Tariq", subsequently corrupted intoGibraltar.[16][40]
In 1160 theAlmohad SultanAbd al-Mu'min ordered that a permanent settlement, including a castle, be built. It received the name of Medinat al-Fath (City of the Victory).[41] The Tower of Homage of theMoorish Castle remains standing.
After the conquest,Henry IV of Castile assumed the additional title ofKing of Gibraltar, establishing it as part of thecomarca of theCampo Llano de Gibraltar.[44] Six years later, Gibraltar was restored to the Duke of Medina Sidonia, who sold it in 1474 to a group of 4,350conversos (Christian converts from Judaism) fromCordova andSeville and in exchange for maintaining the garrison of the town for two years, after which time they were expelled, returning to their home towns or moving on to other parts of Spain.[45] In 1501, Gibraltar passed back to the Spanish Crown, andIsabella I of Castile issued aRoyal Warrant granting Gibraltar the coat of arms that it still uses.[citation needed]
In 1540 Gibraltar was captured and ransacked byOttoman admiralHayreddin Barbarossa.[46][47] The raid of the small town eliminated nearly an entire generation of Gibraltarians.[46]
After the destructive Great Siege, the town was almost entirely rebuilt.[49] Giovanni Maria Boschetti, who arrived in Gibraltar in 1784 as a 25-year-old from Milan, where he is thought to have been a stonemason or engineer, built the Victualling Yard (completed in 1812) and many other buildings. Boschetti is regarded as having been responsible for setting the old town's style, described by Claire Montado, chief executive of the Gibraltar Heritage Trust, as "military-ordnance-style arched doorways, Italianate stucco relief, Genoese shutters, English Regency ironwork balconies, Spanish stained glass and Georgian sash and casement windows."[49]
During theNapoleonic Wars, Gibraltar became a key base for theRoyal Navy and played an important role leading up to theBattle of Trafalgar (21 October 1805). Designated one of fourImperial fortresses (along withBermuda,Halifax (Nova Scotia) andMalta),[50] its strategic location made it a key base during theCrimean War of 1854–1856. In the 18th century, the peacetime military garrison fluctuated in numbers from a minimum of 1,100 to a maximum of 5,000. The first half of the 19th century saw a significant increase of population to more than 17,000 in 1860, as people from Britain and all around the Mediterranean – Italian, Portuguese, Maltese, Jewish and French – took up residence in the town.[51]
Its strategic value increased with the opening of theSuez Canal, as it lay on the sea route between the UK and theBritish Empire east of Suez. In the later 19th century, major investments were made to improve the fortifications and the port.[52]
Shown here during the Second World War, aDouglas Dakota ofBOAC is silhouetted at Gibraltar by the batteries of searchlights on the Rock, as crews prepare it for a night flight to the United Kingdom.
During the Second World War, most of Gibraltar'scivilian population was evacuated, mainly to London, but also to parts ofMorocco andMadeira and toGibraltar Camp inJamaica. The Rock was strengthened as afortress. On 18 July 1940, theVichy Frenchair force attacked Gibraltar in retaliation for theBritish bombing of the Vichy navy. The naval base and the ships based there played a key role in the provisioning and supply of the island ofMalta duringits long siege. As well as frequent short runs, known as "Club Runs", towards Malta to fly off aircraft reinforcements (initiallyHurricanes, but later, notably from the USN aircraft carrierWasp,Spitfires), the criticalOperation Pedestal convoy was run from Gibraltar in August 1942. This resupplied the island at a critical time in the face of concentrated air attacks from German and Italian forces. Spanish dictatorFrancisco Franco's reluctance to allow theGerman Army onto Spanish soil frustrated a German plan to capture the Rock, codenamedOperation Felix.[citation needed]
In the 1950s, Franco renewed Spain's claim to sovereignty over Gibraltar and restricted movement between Gibraltar and Spain. Gibraltarians voted overwhelmingly to remain under British sovereignty in the1967 Gibraltar sovereignty referendum, which led to the passing of theGibraltar Constitution Order in 1969. In response, Spain completely closed the border with Gibraltar and severed all communication links.[53] The border with Spain was partially reopened in 1982 and fully reopened in 1985 before Spain's accession to theEuropean Community.[citation needed]
In the early 2000s, Britain and Spain were in negotiations over a potential agreement that would see them sharing sovereignty over Gibraltar. The government of Gibraltar organised areferendum on the plan, and 99% of the population voted to reject it.[54][55] In 2008, the British government committed to respecting the Gibraltarians' wishes.[56] Anew Constitution Order was approved in referendum in 2006. A process of tripartite negotiations started in 2006 between Spain, Gibraltar and the UK, ending some restrictions and dealing with disputes in some specific areas such as air movements, customs procedures, telecommunications, pensions and cultural exchange.[57]
In theBritish referendum on membership of the European Union 96% ofGibraltarians voted to remain on an 84% turnout.[58] Spain renewed calls for joint Spanish–British control of the peninsula;[59] these were strongly rebuffed by Gibraltar's Chief Minister.[60] On 18 October 2018, however, Spain seemed to have reached an agreement with the United Kingdom in relation to its objections to Gibraltar leaving the EU with the UK, with Spain's prime ministerPedro Sánchez stating, "Gibraltar will no longer be a problem in arriving at a Brexit deal."[61]
On 31 January 2020, theUK left the European Union, and Gibraltar consequently did the same. During the transition phase set out in theBrexit withdrawal agreement, Gibraltar's relationship with the EU remained unchanged until the end of 2020, when it was replaced by theEU–UK Trade and Cooperation Agreement. On 31 December 2020, the UK and Spain agreed in principle on a framework for Gibraltar to participate in theSchengen Area[21] to avoid a hard border with Spain after years of negotiations.[62][63][64] On 11 June 2025, a deal was signed which established anopen border and joint passport controls atGibraltar International Airport, measures designed to facilitate easier travel and daily crossings. Despite these arrangements, the UK reaffirmed that Gibraltar remains British sovereign territory, preserving the existing status despite practical changes on the ground.[22][23]
In 2022, Gibraltar launched a bid for city status as part of thePlatinum Jubilee Civic Honours. The bid was refused, but when researchers looked throughthe National Archives, they found that it had already been recognised as a city byQueen Victoria in 1842.[65] The status came into force on 29 August 2022.[65]
Under its currentconstitution, Gibraltar has almost complete internalself-governance through aparliament[66][67][68] elected for a term of up to four years. Theunicameral parliament presently consists of 17 elected members, and theSpeaker who is not elected but appointed by a resolution of the parliament.[69] Thegovernment consists of 10 elected members. The head of state is the British monarchKing Charles III, who is represented by theGovernor of Gibraltar. The governor enacts day-to-day matters on the advice of the Gibraltar Parliament but is responsible to the British government in respect of defence, foreign policy, internal security and general good governance. Judicial and other appointments are made on behalf of the monarch in consultation with thehead of the elected government.[70][71][72]
Gibraltar was nominated to be included on theUnited Nations list of non-self-governing territories by the United Kingdom when the list was created in 1946[78] and has been listed ever since.[79] The government of Gibraltar has actively worked to have Gibraltar removed from the list,[80] and in 2008 the British government declared Gibraltar's continued presence on the list an anachronism.[81]
Gibraltar is not asovereign state but a dependent territory of the United Kingdom, with its formal international relations managed by the UK Government. SinceBrexit, Gibraltar is no longer part of theEuropean Union (EU) but participates in theEU–UK Trade and Cooperation Agreement. On 31 December 2020, the UK andSpain agreed in principle on a framework for the EU and the UK to negotiate an agreement allowing Gibraltar to participate in theSchengen Area[21] to avoid a hard border with Spain. Although these arrangements did not enter into force,[21][62] both sides aimed to minimise delays at the border in the meantime.[63][83][84] However, talks stalled for several years due to Spain's insistence that itsPolicía Nacional control entry into the Schengen area, while the UK demanded that the European Union agencyFrontex perform this role.
In June 2025, a preliminary political agreement was reached between the United Kingdom, Spain and the European Union to remove all physical border and customs checks between Gibraltar and Spain. Under the agreement, ThePolicía Nacional will conduct Schengen passport controls at Gibraltar's port and airport alongside Gibraltar authorities, and theland border will be fully open for people and goods. The agreement also establishes joint Gibraltarian–Spanish cooperation on customs, indirect taxation including tobacco and anti-money laundering, with commitments to fair competition in taxation, state aid and labour. It explicitly states that British sovereignty remains legally unaffected despitede facto Spanish control over Gibraltar's borders.[22][23][85]
View of the Rock of Gibraltar from theMediterranean StepsEnlargeable, detailed map of Gibraltar
Gibraltar's territory covers 6.8 km2 (2.6 sqmi)[3] and shares a 1.2 km (0.75 mi) land border with Spain. The town ofLa Línea de la Concepción, amunicipality of theprovince of Cádiz, lies on the Spanish side of the border. The Spanish hinterland forms thecomarca ofCampo de Gibraltar (literally "Countryside of Gibraltar"). The shoreline measures 12 km (7.5 mi) in length. There are two coasts ("Sides") of Gibraltar: the East Side, which contains the settlements ofSandy Bay andCatalan Bay; and theWestside, where the vast majority of the population lives. Gibraltar has no administrative divisions but is divided into sevenMajor Residential Areas.
Having negligiblenatural resources and few naturalfreshwater resources, limited to natural wells in the north, until recently Gibraltar used large concrete or natural rockwater catchments to collect rainwater. Fresh water from the boreholes is nowadays supplemented by twodesalination plants: areverse osmosis plant, constructed in a tunnel within the rock, and amulti-stage flash distillation plant at North Mole.[86]
Gibraltar's terrain consists of the 426 m-high (1,398 ft)Rock of Gibraltar[87] made ofJurassiclimestone, and the narrow coastal lowland surrounding it. It contains many tunnelled roads, most of which are still operated by the military and closed to the general public.
Morocco (top far left across Strait); Spain: Algeciras (top centre across Bay of Gibraltar) and La Linea (right); Gibraltar cruise port and airport runway (right foreground); from the Rock
Gibraltar has aMediterranean climate (Köppen climate classificationCsa),[88][89] with mild, rainy winters and summers that are very warm to hot and humid, but with very little rainfall. As is the case for nearbyAlgeciras andTarifa, summers are significantly cooler and annual temperature more constant than other cities on the southern coast of the Iberian peninsula because of its position on the Strait of Gibraltar. Rain occurs mainly in winter, with summer being generally dry. Its average annual temperature is 21.7 °C (71.1 °F) as a daily high and 15.8 °C (60.4 °F) as the overnight low. In the coldest month, January, the high temperature averages 16.3 °C (61.3 °F) and the overnight low averages 11.2 °C (52.2 °F) and the average sea temperature is 16 °C (61 °F). In the warmest month, August, the daily high temperature averages 28.4 °C (83.1 °F), the overnight low averages 21.2 °C (70.2 °F), and the average sea temperature is 22 °C (72 °F).[90][91]
Over 500 different species offlowering plants grow on the Rock. Gibraltar is the only place in Europe where Gibraltar candytuft (Iberis gibraltarica) is found growing in the wild; the plant is otherwise native to North Africa. It is the symbol of theUpper Rock nature reserve.Olive andpine trees are among the most common of those growing around the Rock.[citation needed]
Most of the Rock's upper area is covered by anature reserve which is home to around 230Barbary macaques, the famous "apes" of Gibraltar, which are actuallymonkeys. These are the only wild apes or monkeys found in Europe.[96] This species, known scientifically asMacaca sylvanus, is listed as endangered by theIUCN Red List and is declining. Three-quarters of the world population live in theMiddle Atlas mountains ofMorocco. Recent genetic studies and historical documents point to their presence on the Rock before British control, having possibly been introduced during the Islamic period. A superstition analogous to that of theravens at theTower of London states that if the apes ever leave, so will the British. In 1944,British Prime MinisterWinston Churchill was so concerned about the dwindling population of apes that he sent a message to theColonial Secretary requesting that something be done about the situation.[97]
Other mammals found in Gibraltar include rabbits, foxes and bats. Dolphins and whales are frequently seen in theBay of Gibraltar. Migrating birds are very common and Gibraltar is home to the onlyBarbary partridges found on the European continent.[citation needed]
In May 2016, a report by theWorld Health Organization showed that Gibraltar had the worst air quality in any British territory. The report concentrated onPM10 andPM2.5 pollutants in the air.[99]
Gibraltar's economy is dominated by four main sectors:financial services,online gambling, shipping, and tourism, which includes duty-free retail sales to visitors.[100] TheBritish military traditionally dominatedGibraltar's economy, with thenaval dockyard providing the bulk of economic activity. This, however, has diminished over the last 20 years and is estimated to account for only seven per cent of the local economy, compared to over 60 per cent in 1984. The territory also has a small manufacturing sector, representing a bit less than two per cent of the economy.
Gibraltar'slabour market employs around thirty thousand workers, 80% in the private sector and 20% in the public sector. The unemployment rate is extremely low, at around one per cent.[citation needed]
More than half (53 per cent) of the labour force are resident in Spain or are non Gibraltarians. According to the Government of Gibraltar's statistics, around 45 per cent of the total employee jobs, and 58% of the private sector jobs, are held by frontier workers (employees who are normally resident in Spain but are employed in Gibraltar). Around 63 per cent of the frontier workers are Spanish nationals. More than half (55 per cent) of the private sector employee jobs are held by persons who are not Gibraltarians or Other British nationalities. The public sector, on the other hand, employs mainly Gibraltarians and other British (90 per cent).[101] As a consequence, according toFabian Picardo, Chief Minister of Gibraltar, during Brexit negotiations, a frontier which lacked the necessary fluidity for people to be able to access their places of work would put directly at risk nearly half of the jobs of the Gibraltar workforce.[102][103]
In the early 2000s, manybookmakers and online gaming operators moved to Gibraltar to benefit from operating in a regulated jurisdiction with a favourablecorporate tax regime. This corporate tax regime for non-resident controlled companies was phased out by January 2011 and replaced by a still favourable fixed corporate tax rate of ten per cent.[104]
Tourism is also a significant industry. Gibraltar is a popular port for cruise ships and attracts day visitors from resorts in Spain. The Rock is a popular tourist attraction, particularly among British tourists and residents in the southern coast of Spain. It is also a popular shopping destination, and all goods and services areVAT free, but may be subject to Gibraltar taxes. Many of the large British high street chains have branches or franchises in Gibraltar includingMorrisons,Marks & Spencer andMothercare. Branches and franchises of international retailers such asTommy Hilfiger andSunglass Hut are also present in Gibraltar, as is the Spanish clothing companyMango.[citation needed]
There is some manufacturing activity, representing around 2% of the total employment. One company (Bassadone Automotive Group) supplies ambulances and other project vehicles converted locally fromSUV vehicles to the United Nations and other agencies, employing some 320 staff across its range of activities.[105]
In 1967, Gibraltar enacted the Companies (Taxation and Concessions) Ordinance (now an Act), which provided for special tax treatment for international business.[106] This was one of the factors leading to the growth of professional services such asprivate banking and captive insurance management. Gibraltar has several attractive attributes as afinancial centre, including acommon lawlegal system and access to the EU single market in financial services. Gibraltar is considered a high class jurisdiction and is listed on the "white list" by theOrganisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) due to its highly regulated financial and e-gaming sectors, sharing the same status as the UK, USA and Germany.[20] It is internationally collaborative, including in the exchange of information on tax matters.[20]
In January 2018, Gibraltar introduced a regulatory framework for Distributed Ledger Technology, with the aim of pursuing a “more flexible, adaptive approach... in the case of novel business activities, products, and business models”.[107][108] The Financial Services Commission (FSC),[109] which was established by an ordinance in 1989 (now an Act) that took effect in 1991, regulates the finance sector.[110] In 1997, the Department of Trade and Industry established its Gibraltar Finance Centre (GFC) Division to facilitate the development thefinancial sector development. As of 2012[update], Gibraltar has 0.103Big Four accounting firm offices per 1,000 population, the second highest in the world after theBritish Virgin Islands, and 0.6 banks per 1,000 people, the fifth most banks per capita in the world.[111] As of 2017[update], there isvery significant uncertainty on continuing access to the EU single market after the forthcomingBrexit.[112]
The currency of Gibraltar is theGibraltar pound, issued by theGovernment of Gibraltar under the terms of the 1934Currency Notes Act. These banknotes arelegal tender in Gibraltar alongside Bank of England banknotes.[113][114] In acurrency board arrangement, these notes are issued against reserves ofsterling.[114][115][116] Clearing and settlement of funds is conducted in sterling.[117]Coins in circulation follow British denominations but have separate designs. Unofficially, most retail outlets in Gibraltar accept theeuro, though somepayphones and theRoyal Gibraltar Post Office, along with all other government offices, do not.[118]
Gibraltar is one of the most densely populated territories in the world, with a usually-resident population in 2012 of 32,194[119] equivalent to approximately 4,959/km2 (12,840/sq mi). The growing demand for space is being increasingly met byland reclamation; reclaimed land makes up approximately one-tenth of the territory's total area, but houses over 40% of its population (2012 Census).
According to the 2012 Gibraltar census, 25,444 people (79.0%) were eligible for "Gibraltarian" status. Of the rest, 4249 (13.2%) were "other British", 675 (2.1%) were Spanish, 522 (1.6%) were Moroccan and 785 (2.4%) had other EU nationalities. There were 519 people (1.6%) with other nationalities.[120]
Usually-resident population and persons present in Gibraltar
Theofficial language of Gibraltar is English and is used by the government and in schools. Most locals arebilingual, also speaking Spanish. However, because of the varied mix of ethnic groups which reside there, other languages are also spoken on the Rock.Berber andArabic are spoken by theMoroccan community, as areHindi andSindhi by the Indian community.Maltese is spoken by some families ofMaltese descent.[122]
The English language is becoming increasingly dominant in Gibraltar, with the younger generation speaking little or no Llanito despite learning Spanish in school.[123][124]
The third religion in size isIslam (3.6% of the population). There is also an establishedHindu population (2%), members of theBaháʼí Faith and a long-establishedJewish community, which, at 763 persons, accounts for 2.4% of the population.[126] There are four functioningOrthodox synagogues in Gibraltar and several kosher establishments.
On 31 March 2015, the government of Gibraltar announced the adoption of the University of Gibraltar Act and theUniversity of Gibraltar opened in September 2015.[129][130] Previously, there were no facilities in Gibraltar for full-time higher education, and consequently, all Gibraltarian students studied elsewhere atdegree level or its equivalent and also for certain non-degree courses.[131]
TheGibraltar Health Authority, established under the Medical (Gibraltar Health Authority) Act of 1987[133] is funded through the Gibraltar Group Practice Medical Scheme. It employs around 900 people, handling 37,000A&E attendances, 40,000 outpatient appointments, and 90,000GP visits a year. Some specialist care is provided by visiting consultants and in UK and Spanish hospitals. First-line medical and nursing services are provided at the Primary Care Centre, which has 16 GPs, with more specialised services available atSt Bernard's Hospital, a 210-bed civilian hospital opened in 2005. Psychiatric care is provided by Ocean Views.[citation needed]
As of 2012 the authority was responsible for the health of some 27,000 individuals. The GHA and Social Welfare System are closely based upon their British counterparts, namely theNational Health Service.[134] As of 2003 the organisation was funded through roughly£19 million ($27 million) ofsocial insurance stamp contributions through the Gibraltar Group Practice Medical Scheme.[135]
In September 2014Egton Medical Information Systems won a contract, worth up to £11.25m over 10 years, to deliver anelectronic patient record for the health service of Gibraltar including apatient administration system, an emergency department system, e-prescribing and other software from Ascribe, which Emis bought in September 2013.[136] The A&E unit at St Bernard's Hospital went live on 24 June 2015 using Emis' Symphony and it is planned that primary and community services and the acute hospital will start to use the Ascribe CaMIS patient administration system.[137]
A Community Mental Health Team was established in 2017, and in 2018 the Gibraltar Health Authority School of Health Studies introduced a Mental Health Nursing degree to tackle difficulties in recruiting mental health nurses.[138]
Theculture of Gibraltar reflects Gibraltarians' diverse origins. While there are Spanish (mostly from nearbyAndalusia) and British influences, the ethnic origins of most Gibraltarians are not confined to these ethnicities. Other ethnicities includeGenoese,Maltese,Portuguese,Catalan,Sephardic Jewish,Sicilian,Moroccan, andIndian. British influence remains strong, with English being the language of government, commerce, education and the media.
Gibraltar's first sovereignty referendum is celebrated annually onGibraltar National Day (10 September). It is a public holiday, during which most Gibraltarians dress in theirnational colours of red and white. Until 2016, the tradition had been to also release 30,000 similarly coloured balloons, which represented the people of Gibraltar. However, this tradition has now been ended because of the threat that it poses to wildlife, particularly marine.[139] The 300th anniversary ofGibraltar's capture was celebrated in 2004 on Tercentenary Day (4 August), when in recognition of and with thanks for its long association with Gibraltar, theRoyal Navy was given theFreedom of the City of Gibraltar and a human chain of Gibraltarians dressed in red, white and blue, linked hands to encircle the Rock. On 4 June 2012, theGibraltar Diamond Jubilee Flotilla, inspired by theThames Diamond Jubilee Pageant, celebrated sixty years of theQueen's reign.[140]
TheGibraltar Broadcasting Corporation operates a television and radio station on UHF, VHF and medium-wave. The radio service is also internet-streamed. Special events and the daily news bulletin are streamed in video. The other local radio service is operated by theBritish Forces Broadcasting Service which also provides a limited cable television network to HM Forces. The largest and most frequently published newspaper is theGibraltar Chronicle, Gibraltar's oldest established daily newspaper and the world's second-oldest English language newspaper to have been in print continuously[141] with daily editions six days a week.Panorama is published on weekdays, and7 Days,The New People, andGibsport are weekly.
Native Gibraltarians have produced some literature of note. The first in fiction was probablyHéctor Licudi's 1929 novelBarbarita, written in Spanish,[142] chronicling the largely autobiographical adventures of a young Gibraltarian man. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, several anthologies of poetry were published byLeopoldo Sanguinetti,Albert Joseph Patron andAlberto Pizzarello. The 1960s were largely dominated by the theatrical works ofElio Cruz and his two highly acclaimed Spanish language playsLa Lola se va pá Londre andConnie con cama camera en el comedor.[citation needed] In the 1990s, the Gibraltarianman-of-lettersMario Arroyo publishedProfiles (1994), a series of bilingual meditations on love, loneliness and death.Trino Cruz is a bilingual poet originally writing English but now mainly in Spanish, who also translatesMaghreb poetry.[143][144][145] Of late there have been works by the essayistMary Chiappe, such as her volume of essaysCabbages and Kings (2006) and byM. G. Sanchez, author of the booksRock Black: Ten Gibraltarian Stories (2008) andDiary of a Victorian Colonial (2009). Mary Chiappe andSam Benady have also published a series of detective books centred on the character of the nineteenth-century Gibraltarian sleuth Bresciano.
Gibraltarian cuisine is the result of a long relationship between the Andalusian Spaniards and the British, as well as the many foreigners who made Gibraltar their home over the past three centuries. The culinary influences include those from Malta, Genoa, Portugal, Andalusia and Britain. This marriage of tastes has given Gibraltar an eclectic mix of Mediterranean and British cuisine, such ascalentita, a baked bread-like dish made withchickpea flour, water, olive oil, salt and pepper.
AsMolly Bloom is a native Gibraltarian, references to Gibraltar appear throughoutJames Joyce'sUlysses (1922). A sculpture of Molly Bloom as imagined by local artist Jon Searle is on display in theAlameda Gardens.[153]
John Masters' bookThe Rock is a collection of short stories set in Gibraltar: ranging from a story set in prehistoric times to one suggesting a possible future for the Rock.[citation needed]
Raymond Benson's James Bond novelDoubleshot deals with a fictional plot to forcibly return Gibraltar to Spain. The climax takes place in Gibraltar.[citation needed]
The filmThe Silent Enemy was filmed on location in Gibraltar in 1958. It is a dramatisation of the period during the Second World War whenLionel "Buster" Crabb served as a mine and disposal officer in Gibraltar while frogmen of theItalian Navy's Tenth Light Flotilla were sinking vital shipping.
Football is a popular sport in Gibraltar. TheGibraltar Football Association applied for full membership ofUEFA, but their bid was turned down in 2007 in a contentious decision.[155] Gibraltar was confirmed as UEFA's 54th member on 24 May 2013 as a result ofCourt of Arbitration for Sport (CAS) arbitration and played inEuro 2016 qualifications.[156][157] Their first match was a 0–0 draw against Slovakia. Gibraltar's national team won its first-ever match in UEFA competition on 13 October 2018, beating Armenia in the2018–19 UEFA Nations League D.[158]
Subsequently, Gibraltar applied for FIFA membership but this bid was also turned down. On 2 May 2016, the CAS upheld the appeal filed by the Gibraltar Football Association regarding its request to become a full-time member of FIFA. CAS ordered FIFA to stop blocking Gibraltar's application for membership and allow it "without delay".[159]
Rugby union is fairly popular and one of the fastest-growing team sports.Gibraltar Rugby Football Union applied for membership of Europe's governing body for rugby. Gibraltar is believed to be the birthplace of the rugby variantTag Rugby.[160][e]
A plaque in City Mill Lane marking the site of Gibraltar's first telephone exchangeA Victorian post box of standard 1887 UK design in use in Gibraltar's Main Street (2008)
Gibraltar has a digitaltelephone exchange supported by afibre optic and copper infrastructure; the telephone operatorGibtelecom also operates aGSM network. Internet connectivity is available across the fixed network. Gibraltar's top-level domain code is.gi.
Within Gibraltar, the main form of transport is the car.Motorcycles are also very popular and there is a good modern bus service. Unlike in the UK and other British territories, trafficdrives on the right and speed limits are in km/h, as the territory shares a land border with Spain. TheE15 route connecting with Spain, France, England and Scotland is accessible from the Spanish side using theCA-34autovía.
Restrictions on transport introduced by Spanish dictatorFrancisco Franco closed the land frontier in 1969 and also prohibited any air or ferry connections. In 1982, the land border was reopened. As the result of an agreement signed inCórdoba on 18 September 2006 between Gibraltar, the United Kingdom and Spain,[161] the Spanish government agreed to relaxborder controls at the frontier that have plagued locals for decades; in return, Britain paid increased pensions to Spanish workers who lost their jobs when Franco closed the border.[162] Telecommunication restrictions were lifted in February 2007 and air links with Spain were restored in December 2006.[163][164]
Motorists and pedestrians crossing the border with Spain are occasionally subjected to very long delays.[165] Spain has occasionally closed the border during disputes or incidents involving the Gibraltar authorities, such as theAurora cruise ship incident[166] and when fishermen from the Spanish fishing vesselPiraña were arrested forillegal fishing in Gibraltar waters.[167]
GB Airways operated a service between Gibraltar and London and other cities for many years. The airline initially flew under the name "Gibraltar Airways". In 1989, and in anticipation of service to cities outside the UK, Gibraltar Airways changed its name to GB Airways with the belief that a new name would incur fewer political problems. As a franchise, the airline operated flights in fullBritish Airways livery. In 2007, GB Airways was purchased byeasyJet,[170] which began operating flights under their name in April 2008 when British Airways re-introduced flights to Gibraltar under their name. EasyJet have since addedBristol andManchester and also operated flights toLiverpool between 2011 and 2012. Until entering administration in October 2017,Monarch Airlines operated the largest number of flights between the United Kingdom and Gibraltar, with scheduled services between Gibraltar andLuton,London Gatwick,Birmingham andManchester. The Spanishnational airline,Iberia, operated a daily service toMadrid which ceased for lack of demand. In May 2009,Ándalus Líneas Aéreas opened a Spanish service,[171] which also ceased operations in March 2010.[172] An annual returncharter flight toMalta is operated byMaltese national airline,Air Malta.
The main road that crosses Gibraltar AirportThe new terminal at Gibraltar Airport
Gibraltar International Airport is unusual not only because of its proximity to the city centre resulting in the airport terminal being within walking distance of much of Gibraltar but also because the runway intersectsWinston Churchill Avenue, formerly the main road into Spain, requiring movable barricades to close when aircraft land or depart. New roads and a tunnel, ending the need to stop road traffic when aircraft use the runway, were planned to coincide with the building of a newairport terminal building with an originally estimated completion date of 2009,[173][174] although delays pushed back its official opening until 31 March 2023.[175][176] The new road and tunnel was named Kingsway with the approval ofCharles III[177] and passes under the terminal and the eastern edge of the runway before connecting withDevil's Tower Road. Runway access is closed to everyday road traffic but is still available for exceptional, specific, or emergency use as well as pedestrians, cyclists and mobility scooters although an alternative subway is provided.[178]
The most popular alternative airport for Gibraltar isMálaga Airport in Spain, some 120 km (75 mi) to the east, which offers a wide range of destinations, second toJerez Airport which is closer to Gibraltar. In addition, theAlgeciras Heliport across the bay offers scheduled services toCeuta.
Passenger and cargo ships anchor in theGibraltar Harbour. Also, a ferry links Gibraltar withTangier in Morocco. The ferry between Gibraltar andAlgeciras, which had been halted in 1969 when Franco severed communications with Gibraltar, was reopened on 16 December 2009, served by the Spanish companyTranscoma.[179] A vehicle ramp at the western end of the North Mole allows vehicles to be unloaded from aRORO ferry.[180]
Gibraltar's supply of drinking water comes entirely from desalination, with a separate supply of saltwater for sanitary purposes. Both supplies are delivered from huge underground reservoirs excavated under theRock of Gibraltar.
Water supply andsanitation in Gibraltar have been major concerns for its inhabitants throughout its history. There are no rivers, streams, or large bodies of water on the peninsula. Gibraltar's water supply was formerly provided by a combination of an aqueduct, wells, and the use of cisterns, barrels and earthenware pots to capture rainwater. This became increasingly inadequate as Gibraltar's population grew in the 18th and 19th centuries and lethal diseases such ascholera andyellow fever began to spread. In the late 19th century, a Sanitary Commission instigated major improvements which saw the introduction of large-scaledesalination and the use of giant water catchments covering over 2.5 million square feet (nearly 250,000 m2).
In general, the Gibraltar force follows British police models in its dress and its mostly male constables and sergeants on foot patrol wear the traditionalcustodian helmet, the headgear of the British "bobby on the beat". The helmet is traditionally made of cork covered outside by felt orserge-like material that matches the tunic. The vehicles also appear virtually identical to typical UK police vehicles, but areleft hand drive.
The force, whose name received the prefix "Royal" in 1992, numbers over 220 officers divided into a number of units.[citation needed] These include theCID, drug squad,special branch, firearms,scene of crime examiners, traffic, marine and operations units, sections or departments.
On 24 September 2015, the Freedom of the City of Gibraltar was conferred upon the RGP by the Mayor, Adolfo Canepa.
Armed forces
The defence of Gibraltar, as a British territory, is the responsibility of thenational (i.e., British) government, with its tri-servicesBritish Forces Gibraltar:
TheRoyal Gibraltar Regiment provides the army garrison with a detachment of theBritish Army, based atDevil's Tower Camp.[186] The regiment was originally a part-time reserve force until the British Army placed it on a permanent footing in 1990. The regiment includes full-time and part-time soldiers recruited from Gibraltar as well as British Army regulars posted from other regiments.
TheRoyal Navy maintains asquadron of several patrol vessels and craft at the Rock. The squadron is responsible for the security and integrity of British Gibraltar Territorial Waters (BGTW). The shore establishment at Gibraltar is calledHMSRooke afterSir George Rooke, who captured the Rock forArchduke Charles (pretender to the Spanish throne) in 1704. The naval air base was named HMSCormorant. Gibraltar's strategic position provides an important facility for the Royal Navy and Britain's allies. British and US nuclear submarines frequently visit theZ berths at Gibraltar.[187] AZ berth provides the facility for nuclear submarines to visit for operational or recreational purposes and for non-nuclear repairs. During theFalklands War, an Argentine plan to attack British shipping in the harbour using frogmen (Operation Algeciras) was foiled.[188] The naval base also played a part in supporting the task force sent by Britain to recover the Falklands.
TheRoyal Air Force station at Gibraltar forms part of Headquarters British Forces Gibraltar. Although aircraft are no longer permanently stationed atRAF Gibraltar, a variety of RAF aircraft make regular visits and the airfield also houses a section from theMet Office. TheGibraltar Air Cadets is an active squadron.[189]
In January 2007, the Ministry of Defence announced that the private companySerco would provide services to the base. The announcement resulted in extensive negotiations with the relevant trade unions.[190][191]
Gibraltar has an important role insignals intelligence gathering, serving as a vital strategic part of the United Kingdom communications gathering and monitoring network in the Mediterranean and North Africa.[192][193]
^An ICAO indicator is a unique identifying four-letter identifier, assigned to airports and airfields. As of September 2018, there were 22,503 ICAO indicator assignments in use.
^A WMO identifier is a unique five-digit numeric code to identify a land weather station. As of September 2018 there were 18,762 WMO identifier assignments in current use.
^Despite several sites reporting that tag rugby was invented by Perry Haddock in Australia around 1990 (this is OzTag, a variant of Tag Rugby), Godwin's wrote about the topic seven years prior. Godwin does not mention when the sport began in Gibraltar, but he does explicitly use the term "Tag Rugby" to describe the game.
^Statistics Office (2009)."Abstract of Statistics 2009"(PDF). Statistics Office of the Government of Gibraltar. p. 2. Archived fromthe original(PDF) on 22 December 2014. Retrieved12 November 2010. "The civilian population includes Gibraltarian residents, other British residents (including the wives and families of UK-based servicemen, but not the servicemen themselves) and non-British residents. Visitors and transients are not included." In 2009, this broke down into 23,907 native-born citizens, 3,129 UK British citizens and 2,395 others, making a total population of 29,431. On census night, there were 31,623 people present in Gibraltar.
^Choi, Charles (2006)."Gibraltar".NBC News.Archived from the original on 9 October 2013. Retrieved8 January 2010.
^Finlayson, J. C.; Barton, R. N. E.; Stringer, C. B. (2001). "The Gibraltar Neanderthals and their Extinction".Les Premiers Hommes Modernes de la Peninsule Iberique. Actes du Colloque de la Commission VIII de l'UISPP. Lisbon: Instituto Português de Arqueologia. p. 48.ISBN978-972-8662-00-4.
^Devenish, David (2003). Gibraltar before the British. London: Unpublished proof copy held by the British Library. OCLC 499242153. p. 49
^Ring, Trudy; Salkin, Robert M.; La Boda, Sharon (1995).International Dictionary of Historic Places: Southern Europe. Fitzroy Dearborn Publishers. p. 170
^Norris, H.T. (1961). "The Early Islamic Settlement in Gibraltar".Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland.91 (1):39–51.doi:10.2307/2844467.JSTOR2844467.
^Maurice Harvey (1996).Gibraltar. A History. Spellmount Limited. pp. 50–51.ISBN1-86227-103-8.
^Lamelas Oladán, Diego (1 April 1990)."Asentamiento en Gibraltar en 1474 y expulsión en 1476"(PDF).Almoraima. Revista de Estudios Campogibraltareños (in Spanish) (3 (Suplemento 'La compra de Gibraltar por los conversos andaluces (1474–1476)')). Instituto de Estudios Gibraltareños: 25. Archived fromthe original(PDF) on 4 May 2013. Retrieved7 March 2013.
^MacFarlane, Thomas (1891).Within the Empire; An Essay on Imperial Federation. Ottawa: James Hope & Co., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. p. 29.Besides the Imperial fortress of Malta, Gibraltar, Halifax and Bermuda it has to maintain and arm coaling stations and forts at Siena Leone, St. Helena, Simons Bay (at the Cape of Good Hope), Trincomalee, Jamaica and Port Castries (in the island of Santa Lucia).
^Mark Oliver; Sally Bolton; Jon Dennis; Matthew Tempest (4 August 2004)."Gibraltar".The Guardian. London.Archived from the original on 29 July 2020. Retrieved20 December 2007.
^Telegraph.co.ukArchived 18 October 2017 at theWayback Machine, David Blair, Gibraltar makes plans for self-government, Daily Telegraph, 28 February 2002 "Gibraltar's parliament approved an ambitious package of constitutional reform yesterday designed to give the colony almost complete self-government."
^Gibraltar.gov.gi, Gibraltar Chief Minister's address at the United Nations Committee of 24 on 5 June 2007: The new Constitution "maximises self Government in all areas of Governance except defence, external affairs and internal security which, under our own Constitution vest in the Governor as a matter of distribution of powers."
^BBC News website , Regions and territories: Gibraltar "Gibraltar is self-governing in all areas except defence and foreign policy."
^Gibraltar: Time to get off the fence; Second Report of Session 2014–15; HC 461. Great Britain: Parliament: House of Commons: Foreign Affairs Committee. Paragraph 83, p. 46
^"Moyennes 1991/2020 Gibraltar".Baseline climate means (1961–1990) from stations all over the world (in French). Metéo Climat. Retrieved8 February 2022.
^Madge, A; A. Simons (June 2000)."Gibraltar". Guardian International Currency Corp. Archived fromthe original on 11 October 2007. Retrieved20 December 2007.
^Noble, John; Forsyth, Susan; Hardy, Paula; Hannigan, Des (2005).Andalucía. Lonely Planet. p. 221.ISBN978-1-74059-676-3.
^"Newsletter No 70"(PDF). Friends of Gibraltar Heritage Society. November 2004. Archived fromthe original(PDF) on 1 December 2007. Retrieved30 March 2015.
^Landon, Letitia Elizabeth (1836). "picture".Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1837. Fisher, Son & Co.Archived from the original on 10 December 2022. Retrieved10 December 2022.Landon, Letitia Elizabeth (1836). "poetical illustration".Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1837. Fisher, Son & Co. p. 51.Archived from the original on 10 December 2022. Retrieved10 December 2022.
^Landon, Letitia Elizabeth (1837). "poetical illustration".Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1838. Fisher, Son & Co. pp. 20–21.Archived from the original on 13 December 2022. Retrieved13 December 2022.Landon, Letitia Elizabeth (1837). "picture".Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1838. Fisher, Son & Co.Archived from the original on 13 December 2022. Retrieved13 December 2022.
^Landon, Letitia Elizabeth (1837). "picture".Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1838. Fisher, Son & Co.Archived from the original on 13 December 2022. Retrieved13 December 2022.Landon, Letitia Elizabeth (1837). "poetical illustration".Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1838. Fisher, Son & Co. p. 45.Archived from the original on 13 December 2022. Retrieved13 December 2022.
^The Committee Office, House of Commons."Frontier restrictions". Publications.parliament.uk.Archived from the original on 11 May 2011. Retrieved13 May 2011.
^Peralta, Gabriella (30 March 2023)."Over 14 years later, Kingsway Tunnel opens".Gibraltar Chronicle. Retrieved24 April 2023.that the airport and tunnel access roads [and the tunnel]...will be known as Kingsway...and that has been approved by His Majesty himself
^"Airport Tunnel to open on 31st March 2023 – 177/2023".Government of Gibraltar. 28 March 2023. Retrieved24 April 2023.The road from the new roundabout at Devil's Tower Road to the East Gate roundabout is approximately 1.2km in length, including approximately 350 metres of covered tunnel.
^Doug Henderson, Minister of State for the Armed Forces (9 November 1998)."Gibraltar".Parliamentary Debates (Hansard). Parliament of the United Kingdom: House of Commons. col. 73.
Bond, Peter (2003). "Gibraltar's Finest Hour The Great Siege 1779–1783".300 Years of British Gibraltar 1704–2004 (1st ed.). Gibraltar: Peter-Tan Publishing Co. pp. 28–29.
Drinkwater, John:A History of the Siege of Gibraltar, 1779–1783: With a Description and Account of That Garrison from the Earliest Periods London, 1862.
Falkner, James:Fire Over the Rock: The Great Siege of Gibraltar 1779–1783, Pen and Sword, 2009
Harvey, Robert:A Few Bloody Noses: The American War of Independence, London, 2001
Rodger, N. A. M.:The Command of the Ocean: A Naval History of Britain, 1649–1815, London, 2006
Norwich, John Julius:The Middle Sea: A History of the Mediterranean, Random House, 2006
Sugden, John:Nelson: A Dream of Glory, London, 2004
Syrett, David:Admiral Lord Howe: A Biography, London, 2006.
Maria Monti, Ángel:Historia de Gibraltar: dedicada a SS. AA. RR., los serenisimos señores Infantes Duques de Montpensier, Imp. Juan Moyano, 1852
Maria Montero, Francisco:Historia de Gibraltar y de su campo, Imprenta de la Revista Médica, 1860
Uxó Palasí, José:Referencias en torno al bloqueo naval durante los asedios, Almoraima. n.º 34, 2007
Description of Gibraltar as it was in the mid-19th century.Scherzer, Karl (1861)."Gibraltar: Stay from the 20th to the 30th of May, 1857".Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian FrigateNovara. London: Saunders, Otley & Co.
24Claimed in 1908; territory formed 1962; overlaps portions of Argentine and Chilean claims, borders not enforced but claim not renounced under theAntarctic Treaty.
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