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| Figure-eight knot | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Names | Figure-eight knot, figure-of-eight knot, Savoy knot, Flemish knot, double stopper |
| Category | Stopper |
| Efficiency | 80% |
| Origin | Ancient |
| Related | Stevedore knot,figure-eight loop,figure-eight follow through,directional figure eight |
| Releasing | Jamming |
| Typical use | General-purpose stopper knot. Replaces the commonoverhand knot in many uses. |
| ABoK | #420 #520 #570 |
| Conway Notation | 2 2 |
| A/B notation | 41 |
| Instructions | [1] |
Thefigure-eight knot orfigure-of-eight knot is a type ofstopper knot. It is very important insailing,rock climbing andcaving as a method of stopping ropes from running out of retaining devices. Like theoverhand knot, which will jam under strain, often requiring the rope to be cut, the figure-eight will also jam, but is usually more easily undone than the overhand knot.
The figure-eight or figure-of-eight knot is also called (in books) the Flemish knot. The name figure-of-eight knot appears in Lever'sSheet Anchor; or, a Key to Rigging (London, 1808). The word "of" is nowadays usually omitted. The knot is the sailor's common single-strandstopper knot and is tied in the ends of tackle falls and running rigging, unless the latter is fitted with monkey's tails. It is used about ship wherever a temporary stopper knot is required. The figure-eight is much easier to untie than theoverhand, it does not have the same tendency to jam and so injure the fiber, and is larger, stronger, and equally secure.
Thestevedore knot is an extension of simple figure-eight knot with an additional turn before the end is finally tightened.
Thefigure-eight loop is used like anoverhand loop knot. This type of knot can be used inprusik climbing when used in conjunction with aclimbing harness, a climbing rope, and lockingcarabiner designed for climbing, to ascend or descend with minimal equipment and effort.
Thefigure-eight bend knot is used to "splice" together two ropes, not necessarily of equal diameter. This knot is tied starting with a loose figure-eight knot on one rope (the larger-diameter one if unequal), and threading of the other rope's running end through the first figure eight, starting at the first figure-eight's running end and paralleling the path of the first rope through the figure eight until the second's ropes running end lies parallel against first's standing end. The result is two figure-eight knots, each partly inside the other and tightening its hold on the other when they are pulled in opposite directions. This can be a permanent or temporary splice. While it precludes the ropes' slipping relative to each other, it is a typical knot in having less strength than the straight ropes.
Theoffset figure-eight bend is a poor knot that has been implicated in the deaths of several rock climbers.[2]
Thestein knot (also known as astone knot) is a variation of the figure-eight knot. It is used to secure a rope that is already passed around a post or through a ring. It is quick and easy to tie and untie. It is a device rigging rather than a true knot. Incanyoneering, it is used to isolate rope strands to allow one person torappel while another is getting on the rappel, or allow rappellers the option of using a single or a double rope. It is also used inbasketmaking.
