| Eltham | |
|---|---|
.jpg) St Barnabas Church | |
  Eltham Location withinGreater London | |
| Population | 48,964 (2011 Census. 4 Wards. Middle Park and Sutcliffe, Eltham, North, South and West)[1] |
| OS grid reference | TQ425745 |
| London borough | |
| Ceremonial county | Greater London |
| Region | |
| Country | England |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Post town | LONDON |
| Postcode district | SE9, SE12 (part) |
| Dialling code | 020 |
| Police | Metropolitan |
| Fire | London |
| Ambulance | London |
| UK Parliament | |
| London Assembly | |
| 51°27′04″N0°03′07″E / 51.451°N 0.052°E /51.451; 0.052 | |
Eltham (/ˈɛltəm/EL-təm) is a district ofsoutheastLondon, England, within theRoyal Borough of Greenwich. It is 8.7 miles (14.0 km) east-southeast ofCharing Cross, and is identified in theLondon Plan as one of 35 major centres inGreater London.[2] The three wards of Eltham North, South and West have a total population of 35,459.[1] 88,000 people live in Eltham.
Eltham developed along part of the road from London toMaidstone, and lies 3 miles (4.8 km) almost due south ofWoolwich.Mottingham, to the south, became part of the parish on the abolition of allextra-parochial areas, which were rare anomalies in the parish system.Eltham College and other parts of Mottingham were therefore not considered within Eltham's boundaries even before the 1860s.
From the sixth century Eltham was in the ancientLathe of Sutton at Hone. In theDomesday Book of 1086 its hundred was namedGren[u/v]iz (Greenwich), which by 1166 was renamedBlachehedfeld(Blackheath) because it had become the location of the annual or more frequenthundred gathering.
Eltham lies in the hundred of Blackheath, at the distance of eight miles from London, on the road to Maidstone. The parish is bounded by Woolwich, Plumsted, and the extraparochial hamlet of Kidbrooke, on the north; by Bexley on the east and south east; by Chislehurst on the south; by the extraparochial hamlet of Mottingham, on the south-west, and by Lee on the west. It contains about 2,880 acres (11.7 km2): of which about 360 are woodland; about 60 waste; about three fifths of the cultivated land are arable. ....This place had formerly a market on Tuesdays, and two fairs; one at the festival of the Holy Trinity, and the other at that of St. Peter and St. Paul; both of which have been long discontinued.
— Daniel Lysons, 1796, The Environs of London[3]
By the 1880s the lathes and hundreds of Kent had become obsolete, with the civil parishes and other districts assuming modern governmental functions.
Eltham was acivil parish ofKent until 1889 when it became part of theCounty of London[citation needed] and from 1900 formed part of theMetropolitan Borough of Woolwich. The metropolitan borough was abolished in 1965 and Eltham then became part of the then London Borough of Greenwich.
Eltham today is one of the largest suburban developments in the borough with a population of almost 88,000 people.[citation needed]
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Eltham lies on a high, sandy plateau which gave it a strategic significance. That, and the fact of its position close to the main route to theEnglish Channel ports in Kent, led to the creation of the moated medievalEltham Palace, still its most notable landmark. Daniel Lysons[3] described its origins.
The Kings of England had a palace at Eltham at a very early period ... Henry the Third, in the year 1270, kept a public Christmas at his palace of Eltham, being accompanied by the Queen, and all the great men of the realm. Anthony Bec, Bishop of Durham, and Patriarch of Jerusalem, bestowed great cost, we are told, on the buildings at this place, and died there on the 28th of March 1311, having, as it is said, some time before given Eltham-house to Edward the Second, or, as some say, to Queen Isabel.... Edward frequently resided here. In 1315, his Queen was brought to bed of a son in this palace, called, from that circumstance, John of Eltham. Edward the Third held a Parliament at Eltham in 1329, and again in 1375.
The nearby manor of Well Hall was home to Sir John Pulteney, four timesLord Mayor of London, and later to wealthy CatholicWilliam Roper and his wife Margaret (daughter of Sir Thomas More, known to Catholics asSaintThomas More, Chancellor to KingHenry VIII). In 1733 SirGregory Page bought this estate for £19,000 and demolished Roper House, building Page House – later known as Well Hall House – on the site. Until its demolition in 1931, Well Hall House variously served as a home towatchmakerJohn Arnold, and later to socialistHubert Bland and authorEdith Nesbit.
Also of note is Avery Hill Park and its former mansion, accessed from Bexley Road and at various points along the three miles (5 km) of other streets that surround the park. Avery Hill was the home ofColonel North, who made his fortune working in the Chilean nitrate industry. A hothouse is still open to the public and contains temperate and tropical plants. There are also remnants of the formal gardens in the public park. The mansion was part of theUniversity of Greenwich, which had a significant presence on two sites in the area. However, in 2014 the university announced its intentions to withdraw from the site and has now done so.
The village streets adjacent to the Palace, and the surrounding land, remained rural untilArchibald Cameron Corbett bought the Eltham Park Estate and developed it with well-built suburban housing between 1900 and 1914. The Bexley Heath Railway (see below) had opened what came to be known as theBexleyheath Line in 1895. Suburban development of the district accelerated when the Government, through His Majesty's Office of Works, built theProgress Estate inWell Hall and large estates of temporaryhutments in 1915, to house the vastly increased numbers of wartime workers in theRoyal Arsenal atWoolwich. In the early years it was called, rather pretentiously, "Well Hall Garden City".[4] Its name was changed to "Progress Estate" when it was purchased by theRoyal Arsenal Co-operative Society in 1925. It compares well with later groups of municipal housing in south London – which is surprising given the fact that it was constructed rapidly between February and December 1915 and is sub-divided by theSouth Circular Road and (until about 1988) by the even busierA2Trunk Road. The Progress Estate was made a Conservation Area in 2007.
Urban development
After World War I the building of housing estates continued unabated. By the beginning of World War II, four large estates were in existence: theProgress Estate (1915), the Page Estate (1923),Middle Park (1931–36), andHorn Park (begun 1936, completed 1950s). The latter two were built on Eltham Palace's former hunting parks.Coldharbour Estate was built in 1947. The small council estates of Pippenhall and Strongbow Crescent were completed about 1960. Since that time new house building has been limited to small private "infill developments" and replacements for demolished properties.
Eltham residents occupy a housing stock of mixed age, particularly towards Eltham Park and the multiple streets with 'Glen' in their names. There are some fine houses scattered around Eltham. At least two roads, North Park and Court Road, contain million pound homes, and some of the older Victorian buildings have been subdivided into apartments.
AMicropub, The Long Pond, was opened in December 2014 - the first pub in Eltham Park for at least 115 years as Archibald Cameron Corbett would not give permission for pubs and put a restrictive covenant on the land. However, since theLicensing Act 2003 was implemented in 2005, Premise Licences are now granted by the local authority (Greenwich London Borough Council) instead of magistrates, as long as the applicant satisfies the council and the "responsible authorities" (such as Police, Environmental Health, Fire Service) that they will uphold the four licensing objectives (prevention of crime and disorder; public safety; prevention of public nuisance, protection of children from harm), then a licence will be granted. Several licensed premises in Eltham Park now offer "Off Sales".
Domestic architecture
In 1990, an IRA bomb outside theEltham Palace headquarters of theRoyal Army Educational Corps injured seven people (see1990 Eltham bombing).[5] The area was targeted three times by theMardi Gra bomber in the 1990s.
Eltham has a variedtopography. Map 6 shows contours, spot heights and water courses. The centre of Eltham is on a plateau at about the 60m level with the High Street running along its centre. There is a scarp slope to the west of the plateau from the top of which are unrestricted views acrossSouth London.Eltham Palace occupies a commanding position on the edge of the scarp. Eltham Hill offers the steepest descent from the plateau, starting at Eltham High Street and descending 30m over 1 km due west at theYorkshire Grey (now aMcDonald's outlet). The land to the north of Eltham rises to form the southern slope ofShooter's Hill, one of thehighest points in London at a height of 430 feet (130 m). The recently (2014) restored 18th centurybelvedereSeverndroog Castle offers wide views from its observation platform which is 490 feet (150 m) above sea level.
From Eltham Church at 200 feet (60 m) the High Street rises gently to 233 feet (71 m) and continues east as Bexley Road at a slightly lower level.
To the south the plateau slopes gently downwards toMottingham (at 163 feet (49.6 m)) andNew Eltham (at 151 feet (46.1 m))
Eltham is devoid of any major water features, although theRiver Thames is approximately 2 kilometres (1.2 mi) away from Eltham's northern limits. The most prominent body of water is theRiver Quaggy which runs to the south-west of Eltham and joins theRiver Ravensbourne at Lewisham. The Quaggy receives additional water from a tributary named Little Quaggy, flowing from the lake ofThe Tarn in Mottingham, and feeds the wetlands inSutcliffe Park. The only other significant watercourse is theRiver Shuttle, which rises in Avery Hill Park and flows east to join theRiver Cray.
Destinations from Eltham | |
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Other nearby areas
There is a large variety of open green space in Eltham, in the form of parkland, fields and woodland."Green Chain Walks" are signposted footpaths that run through or link the green spaces. Some are also bridleways or cycle routes.
Eltham Parks North and South, Avery Hill, Sutcliffe Park, The Tarn, Well Hall Pleasaunce and Horn Park all haveGreen Flag status.[16]
In the 1990s the defence ofOxleas Wood to the north east of the town became a focus for a pan-European campaign to resist high capacity urban roads. Significantly theEuropean Court of Justice found the UK government at fault for not adequately assessing the environmental impact of the planned road, that would have joinedBeckton to Falconwood and perhaps – if objectors' fears are to be believed – been a first stage of a widerorbital road throughCatford (a revival of aGreater London Council-backed Ringway Two).
Green places in Eltham
The Royal Borough of Greenwich maintains an online directory of open spaces.[17] Most parks have active Friends groups
In December 2010, the population ofEltham parliament constituency was 63,059,[18] although this figure includes the wards of Coldharbour and New Eltham, Kidbrooke with Hornfair and Shooter's Hill. 63,082 people live in theSE9 postcode district; of these, 30,398 are male and 32,684 are female.[19] People over 65 make up 17.9% of Eltham's electorate.[20]
At the census of 2011, the white population of Eltham was recorded at 80.95%; the largest minority group in Eltham was Black-African and Black-Caribbean people, who comprised 7.46% of the total population with Asians comprising 6.62%. Eltham's proportion of white residents is significantly higher than theRoyal Borough of Greenwich average of 62.5%. Eltham's population by ward in 2011 was as follows:
Eltham West[21]
| Eltham North[22]
| Eltham South[23]
| Middle Park & Sutcliffe[24]
|
Eltham has an unusually high quotient of green space, with large areas of woodland to the north and east, including the historic woodland ofShooters Hill and Oxleas Wood, the Woodlands Farm community holding, Eltham Parks north and south and extensive parkland heading into Avery Hill park. Thus it is both 'suburban' and 'urban', and it forms part of theRoyal Borough of Greenwich, anInner London borough.
The town centre supports a loyal core of shoppers, diners, and drinkers, but the nightlife is modest. In recent years there has been great effort by local town centre businesses and other important Eltham stakeholders, to drive business, community and tourism improvements, that will help sustain the town centre. These efforts resulted in the formation of an Eltham town centre partnership (ETCP), chaired by an elected local stakeholder. Greenwich council had a member and officer representatives along with the University of Greenwich. The ETCP encouraged the development of A new town centre commerce Association – The Association of Commerce for Eltham (ACE). ACE established a new Town Centre web portal,[25] which offered a basic business directory and tried to increase interaction between business and community groups. Both were offline as of June 2023.
In 2007, the new Eltham Centre opened just off the High Street including council offices and a new swimming pool and incorporating the early 20th century library.
The Eltham Society was founded in 1965 with the aim of "Preserving the past, Conserving the present, and Protecting the future". In 1993 it erected the Eltham Town sign in the high street. The Society is responsible for various publications.[26]
In 2006 the community magazine "SEnine" was launched.[27] As of 2023 it is published monthly and distributed free. As well as news and discussion of current affairs it also lists forthcoming events. It also carries many illustrated articles about Eltham history. Digitised copies of old issues are available on the SEnine website. A community website "This is Eltham" provides updates on current events.[28]
High Street and environs
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On 22 April 1993, 18-year-old black studentStephen Lawrence was fatally stabbed inWell Hall. The crime quickly became one of the most high-profile racially motivated murders in modern Britain. Five teenagers were later accused of his murder but the case was dropped due to a lack of evidence.[29] In 2011 as a result of new evidence coming to light, Gary Dobson and David Norris stood trial for the murder of Stephen Lawrence. They were convicted on 3 January 2012.[30]
Other instances of racial attacks were documented throughout the 1980s and 1990s, with Eltham compared to a "sundown town" a name used to describe communities in America's Deep South where black people were advised for their own safety to not be out in public after dark. Eltham was, for example, compared toJasper, Texas.[31]
During the2011 England riots, Eltham received national attention when, for three nights, avigilante group of 300–400 people occupied the centre of Eltham, saying they were protecting people and property from rioters.[32] Extra police from other UK forces were sent to maintain order. The group gathered after rumours that Eltham would be the latest place to be hit by unrest. A small number claimed to beEDL members.[33] BBC reporters tracked fans ofMillwall andCharlton walking along Eltham High St, with riot police following at a distance.[34] Police were forced to move the crowds on for fear of violence, and were involved in minor clashes, but Eltham did not have any riot damage.[35][36]
Primary schools in Eltham include: Alderwood, Christ Church (Shooters Hill Rd), Deansfield, Gordon, Middle Park, Ealdham, Eltham C of E (Founded 1814),[37] Gordon, Haimo, Henwick, Kidbrooke Park, St Mary's, St Thomas More and Wingfield.
Secondary schools in Eltham includeHarris Academy Greenwich,St Thomas More Catholic School,Eltham Hill School for Girls, andStationers' Crown Woods Academy[38] (built upon the land of King Henry VIII's hunting grounds, and until 2011 named Crown Woods School).
One campus of theUniversity of Greenwich was inAvery Hill Park, on the borders of Eltham andNew Eltham, but has closed.
In 1654, three men were prosecuted at Eltham for playingcricket on a Sunday, one of the sport's earliest references.[39]
Eltham Cricket Club, founded in 1863 and the last club for whom WG Grace played, are based at Footscray Rugby Club.
Eltham has aNon-League football clubCray Valley Paper Mills F.C., which plays at Badgers Sports Ground (shared withGreenwich Borough F.C.) in Middle Park. Cray Valley plays an annual charity match against their local non-league rivals Eltham Old Boys Football Club.
Eltham's parks provide many facilities for sports and fitness. Eltham Park South has a jogging track and six tennis courts. The Pleasaunce has a bowling green and pavilion. Avery Hill Park has changing rooms and half a dozen football and rugby pitches and with cricket pitches laid out in the summer. The land adjoining Avery Hill is occupied by many sports grounds which include Footscray RUFC, London Electricity Sorts and Social Club, Charlton Park RFC, Sparrows Lane Sports Ground, Cambridge Mission Sports Ground, Unilever Sports Ground, Metrogas Amateur Sports Association, St James Mar Thoma Amateur Sports Ground and the SRC2 Sports Club. The same area is also home to the training ground of professional football clubCharlton Athletic at Sparrows Lane.
Adjacent to Well Hall Pleasaunce is University of Greenwich Athletics Ground. This has a pavilion with changing rooms and six pitches for football and rugby
Preserving these sports areas from the encroachments of property developers is a constant battle for Elthams environmental and community groups. Currently (2014) the focus is on the long disused Gaelic Sports Field in Avery Hill Road, for which there is a planning application to build 150 houses.[40]
Eltham, along with most other suburbs in south east London, is not served by theLondon Underground. Commuters rely on two rail lines to central London, and the road network. Trains through Eltham terminate atLondon Charing Cross,London Cannon Street orLondon Victoria in a westerly direction, andCrayford,Dartford,Slade Green,Gravesend,Gillingham orRochester in an easterly direction. Given the lack of London Underground access, the two suburban rail lines work at, or above, their capacity during peak-hour commuting to central London. Fast trains take as little as 20 minutes to get to London Charing Cross. Eltham's closest London Underground station isNorth Greenwich tube station, a few miles to the northwest.
Bexleyheath line
Originally opened on 1 May 1895 by a private company, the Bexleyheath Line was taken over by theSouth Eastern Railway after it suffered bankruptcy. There were originally two stations in Eltham: Eltham Well Hall and Eltham Park. Eltham Well Hall station opened in 1895. Eltham Park station opened (after a prolonged legal wrangle) on 1 July 1908.[41] On 11 June 1972, aLondon-bound train came off the track at Well Hall, killing 6 and injuring 126. Both Eltham stations were closed in 1985 and replaced by a new ‘Eltham’ station; this coincided with the construction of the Rochester Way Relief Road part of which was built on the site of Eltham Well Hall station. Glenlea Road between Well Hall Road and Archery Road was replaced by the station forecourt and a bus station (this had previously been adjacent to Well Hall station). The new rail station was built above the new road at the point it travels through what is sometimes referred to as 'the Eltham tunnel'. The new station has a modernist feel.[42]
Dartford Loop
The Dartford Loop line, about 1 kilometre (0.6 mi) south of Eltham High Street, was opened by theSouth Eastern Railway on 1 September 1866. It is commonly known by locals as the 'Dartford line viaSidcup'. There are two stations on this line that serve the population living to the south of Eltham:Mottingham station, originally named 'Eltham Station' until 'Eltham Well Hall' opened, andNew Eltham station. Neither station is as large as Eltham station, but both have been heavily upgraded since opening.
Eltham High Street lies on the A210, the originalA20 London toMaidstone road. But the A20 has now been diverted southwards, passing through Mottingham, and it is adual carriageway that connects to theM20 motorway in Kent. Similarly, to the north, the dual carriageway A2 has replaced the Rochester Road section, which was always very congested (the old road had dangerous readings of lead pollution, close to schools, before the advent of lead-free petrol).
The upgrading of these two arterial routes in and out of London means that Eltham is handily positioned between the A20 and A2. Driving on either of these roads into London soon results in congestion, although the A2 does connect through to theBlackwall Tunnel under theThames, and thus into east London, all on dual carriageway. Driving eastwards allows access to theDartford Tunnel, and theKent countryside, in as little as 20 minutes in off-peak hours.
Crossing the two from north to the south is theA205 South Circular road, a busy arterial route.
The back streets of Eltham have been largely traffic-calmed by the local Council, but there are chronic rat-runs[43] as many of the measures are ineffective or insufficient. Provision for cyclists is modest, while there are some interesting footpaths along ancient rights of way, for example in Oxleas Wood and Avery Hill Park.
Scheduled coaches, marketed as part of theNational Express network, link Eltham Green toPimlico andVictoria in central London and to several destinations on the Kent coast viaBluewater (a retail-based development on a grand scale in Dartford borough) andCanterbury. Eltham Green is one of the few places in south London served by National Express coaches.
Eltham is served byTransport for London bus routes 122, 124, 126, 132, 160, 161, 162, 233, 286, 314, 321, B15 and B16.[44][45] These routes connect Eltham toBeckenham,Bexley, Bexleyheath, Blackfen,Bromley,Catford, Charlton,Chinbrook,Chislehurst,Crystal Palace,Foots Cray,Greenwich,Grove Park,Horn Park,Kidbrooke,Lee,Lewisham,Middle Park,New Addington,New Cross,North Greenwich,Plumstead,Ruxley,Sidcup,Swanley, Well Hall, Welling and Woolwich.
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