 A typical 1000-yenekiben fromTokyo Station | |
| Type | Boxed meal |
|---|---|
| Associatedcuisine | Japan |
Ekiben (駅弁; railway bento) are a specific type ofbento boxed meals, sold on trains and attrain stations inJapan. They come with disposablechopsticks (when necessary) or spoons.Ekiben containers can be made from plastic, wood, or ceramic. Many train stations have become famous for theirekiben made fromlocal food specialties (tokusanhin).
Ekiben were first sold in railway stations in the late 19th century, and developed at a time when meals on trains were necessary during a long train journey. The popularity ofekiben reached a peak in the 1980s, but declined as air travel became more affordable and trains becamefaster. However, numerous types ofekiben can still be purchased at stands in the station, on the platform, or on the train itself, some of which may be presented in unique containers that can serve assouvenirs or collectibles. Despite undergoing a decline in popularity in the 1990s and 2000s,ekiben remains popular among travelers, and gained popularity on theShinkansen ever since the dining car service that replaced it was discontinued when Japan'sasset price bubble burst in the early 1990s, leading to theLost Decades.
The wordekiben comes from "eki", meaning railway station, and "ben", which is short forbento (box meal).[1] Before the introduction of rail travel, travellers would prepare their own meal or buy meals kept in woodenbento boxes sold in tea houses. During the intermission ofkabuki theatre performances,makunouchi-bento ("between-acts box lunches") were also sold. These would evolve intoekiben with the coming of railways. The first sale ofekiben is generally believed to have been at theUtsunomiya Station in 1885 which opened when theNihon Tetsudo line linked the station toUeno Station inTokyo.[2] In the beginning, theekiben offered were simple fare; theekiben offered at Utsunomiya Station were simplyonigiri (rice balls) wrapped in young bamboo leaves.[2] The idea of sellingekiben quickly spread to railway stations around the country, and in 1888, the first standardekiben with rice and a few side dishes were sold atHimeji Station.[3]
At the beginning of the 20th century, many stations began to offerekiben that served meals prepared from local specialties, andekiben then evolved into a form of meal distinct from otherbento boxes. These may be developed specially and are unique to each region, and often found only at the local railway stations.[4] A well-known example isikameshi, squid stuffed with rice, served at theMori Station inHokkaido. It was first produced as anekiben meal but has since become a noted regional dish.[1] In many places,ekiben have become souvenirs of local specialty for tourists with unique containers and attractive packaging.[3][5]
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Rail travel in Japan boomed after theSecond World War, and with it the popularity ofekiben. Sales ofekiben was further spurred on in the 1970s byEkiben Hitoritabi, a drama based on a manga about a person who travelled round Japan to taste theekiben in different parts of the country. At its height in the mid-1980s, it was estimated that twelve million boxes were consumed daily.[3] This "Golden Age" ofekiben, however, ended in the 1980s when air travel became popular and the introduction of faster trains became more widespread. Prior to the 1980s, air travel was expensive and travelers tended to use trains which were then much slower, thereforeekiben were necessary during their long train journeys.[6] Faster trains such as theShinkansen also eliminated many stops along a railway journey, which contributed to its decline, and some stations no longer offerekiben.[1] From 1987 to 2008, there was a 50% decline in the number ofekiben makers.[3] However, the popularity of theekiben increased when the dining car was discontinued in the 1990s, eventually gaining popularity on theShinkansen aside from remaining popular on the slower but cheaper commuter trains.[citation needed]
Ekiben are now also available outside of railway station in department stores and airports. Annualekiben fairs are held at various department stores, the first of which was held in 1966. The largest of these are the ones at the Keio Department Store inShinjuku Station, Tokyo, andHanshin Department Store inOsaka.[1]Japanese railfans who have a particular enthusiasm forekiben are known asekiben-tetsu.[7]
There many types of differentekiben available. The standardekiben available throughout Japan is known asmakunouchi-bento, which typically features rice, grilled fish, fish cakes, pickles, and other standard elements. There are also regional varieties ofekiben that incorporate elements of the local cuisine. For example,masuzushi is a variety ofekiben fromToyama Prefecture that featurestroutoshizushi (pressed sushi) wrapped in bamboo leaves.
A similar style of meal is also popular inTaiwan, known asTaiwan Railway Bento.
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