| Effigy Mounds National Monument | |
|---|---|
Big Bear Mound at Effigy Mounds National Monument | |
| Location | Allamakee /Clayton Counties,Iowa, USA |
| Nearest city | Marquette, Iowa andDubuque, Iowa |
| Coordinates | 43°05′20″N91°11′08″W / 43.0888°N 91.1856°W /43.0888; -91.1856 |
| Area | 2,526 acres (10.22 km2)[2] |
| Created | October 25, 1949 (1949-10-25) |
| Visitors | 77,195 (in 2016)[3] |
| Governing body | National Park Service |
| Website | Effigy Mounds National Monument |

Effigy Mounds National Monument preserves more than 200 prehistoricmounds built bypre-ColumbianMound Builder cultures, mostly in the first millennium CE, during the later part of theWoodland period of pre-Columbian North America.Numerouseffigy mounds are shaped like animals, including bears and birds.
The monument is located primarily inAllamakee County,Iowa, with a small part inClayton County, Iowa, in the midwesternUnited States.[4] The park's visitor center is located inHarpers Ferry, Iowa, just north ofMarquette.In 2017, the Effigy Mounds were featured in theAmerica the Beautiful Quarters Program.

Prehistoric earthworks bymound builder cultures are common in theMidwest. However, mounds in the shape of mammals, birds, or reptiles, known as effigies, apparently were constructed primarily by peoples in what is now known assouthernWisconsin, northeast Iowa, and small parts of Minnesota and Illinois. An exception is theGreat Serpent Mound in southwestern Ohio.
Effigy Mounds National Monument takes in the western edge of the effigy region. The North Unit (67 mounds) and South Unit (29 mounds) are located where the counties meet along theMississippi River. They are contiguous and easily accessible. TheSny Magill Unit (112 mounds) is approximately 11 miles (18 km) south of the other units, and offers no visitor facilities. Other mounds are located on remote parts of the Monument property.[5] The monument contains 2,526 acres (10.22 km2) with 206 mounds, of which 31 are effigies. The largest, Great Bear Mound, measures 42 meters from head to tail and rises over a meter above the original ground level.
In northeastern Iowa, the Effigy Mounds area was a point of transition between the easternhardwood forests and the central prairies. Native Americans and early settlers would have been able to draw on natural resources available inforests,wetlands, andprairies. These areas were occupied by humans for many centuries.
Effigy Mounds is adjacent to theUpper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge, theDriftless Area National Wildlife Refuge, theYellow River State Forest, and a short distance to the south,Pikes Peak State Park. There are also a number of state-owned wildlife management areas, such as the one atSny Magill Creek, where Clayton County also maintains a county park.
Numerous federally recognized tribes have linguistic and cultural ties to the ancestral peoples who built the effigy and other earthwork mounds at the monument site. The National Park Service recognizes a cultural association between the monument and the following present nations:[6]



Thevisitor center, located at the park entrance, contains museum exhibits highlighting archaeological and natural specimens, an auditorium, and book sales outlet. The park has 14 miles of hiking trails. No paved public automobile access roads exist in the park. Rangers give guided hikes and prehistoric tool demonstrations that are scheduled and advertised, mid-June through Labor Day weekend. Educational programs are presented on- and off-site by appointment.
Natural features in the monument include forests,tallgrass prairies, wetlands andrivers. There are no lodging or camping facilities in the park. Camping is available at nearbyPikes Peak State Park andYellow River State Forest in Iowa; there is alsoWyalusing State Park inWisconsin. Various primitive campgrounds exist in the area as well. The national monument is quite close to the town ofMarquette, Iowa, and is just across the Mississippi River from the city ofPrairie du Chien, Wisconsin, where ample motel and gambling-boat facilities exist.
Effigy Mounds was proclaimed aNational Monument on October 25, 1949.Charles R. Keyes, head of the Iowa Archaeological Survey, and Ellison Orr, chief field supervisor for the Iowa Archaeological Survey, worked to survey and map the area, and to establish its significance for preservation.[7]
The Effigy Mounds National Monument is noted for being in theDriftless Area, an area of North America which escaped glaciation during the lastice age. The adjacentDriftless Area National Wildlife Refuge takes its name from this region.
The Park Service writes:
Patchy remnants ofPre-Illinoian glacialdrift more than 500,000 years old recently have been discovered in the area. Unlike the rest of Iowa, thePaleozoic Plateau was bypassed by the last of thePleistocene glaciers (theWisconsin), allowing the region's fast cutting streams to expose and carve out deep channels in the bedrock-dominated terrain. The area is characterized by thinloess soil cover, isolated patches of glacial drift, deeply entrenched river valleys, andkarst (sinkholes,caves, and springs) topography.[8]
From 1999 to 2009, Superintendent Phyllis Ewing "oversaw more than $3 million in illegal construction of boardwalks, trails and other structures that damaged irreplaceable archaeological artifacts."[9] She failed to conduct consultation with affiliated American Indian tribes and follow procedures of theNational Historic Preservation Act and other statutes. The Park Service conducted an internal investigation, finding numerous violations but no intent to damage the park.[9]
In July 2016, Thomas Munson, Superintendent for 20 years of the Effigy Mounds National Monument, was sentenced to several days in prison after pleading guilty to stealing bones in 1990 of 40 ancient Native Americans, who lived between 700 and 2,500 years ago, from the holdings of the museum at the site.[10] The remains had been excavated along with artifacts from burial mounds at the park. Munson was apparently trying to evade the proposed provisions of theNative American Graves Protection and Repatriation Act (NAGPRA), which was passed by Congress that year.[10] The act provides for artifacts and bones to be returned or repatriated by governmental agencies and other institutions to tribes who are affiliated with the peoples who buried the items.
Tracing the bones could have demonstrated a link to the affiliated tribes and required return of both the remains and related artifacts from grave goods. Without that evidence, most of the artifacts have been retained by the park museum. The government conducted a five-year investigation through the US Attorney's Office, following questions raised in 2011 by Iowa Tribe of Kansas and Nebraska member Patt Murphy. As tribal representative under NAGPRA to receive "remains and funerary objects for repatriation and reburial," he had requested an inventory from the national monument of all remains and goods, which they could not provide. This began the inquiry. Murphy has praised the work of the US Attorney's Office and others in this case.[10]
Munson was sentenced to a year of home detention, 10 weekends in jail, and paying "$108,905 in restitution for the damage he caused to the bones and a $3,000 fine."[10] Munson had retired from the National Park Service in 1994.
Jim Nepstad, who was appointed superintendent at the monument in 2011, worked to restore those disturbed areas of the park. He also worked to rebuild the Park Service's standing with area residents and members of the site's affiliated American Indian tribes.[9] He was featured in the documentaryIn Effigy.
In 2022, archaeologist Susa Snow was appointed superintendent of the monument.[2] That same year, theNational Park Service and leaders of theIowa Tribe of Kansas and Nebraska (ITKN) signed a first-of-its-kind agreement establishing the first Tribal Sister Park relationship between a U.S. national park and a Tribal Nation’s National Park.[3]