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Edith Rosenbaum

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
American fashion designer, war correspondent and RMS Titanic survivor
Edith Rosenbaum Russell
Edith Rosenbaum Russell shortly after her rescue from theTitanic, carrying the toy pig with which she escaped the ship
BornJune 12, 1879
DiedApril 4, 1975 (aged 95)
London, England
Occupation(s)Fashion journalist, stylist and buyer
Known forsurviving the sinking of theTitanic

Edith Louise Rosenbaum Russell (June 12, 1879 – April 4, 1975) was an American fashion buyer, stylist and correspondent forWomen's Wear Daily, best remembered for surviving the 1912 sinking of theRMSTitanic with a music box in the shape of a pig. The papier-mâché toy, covered in pigskin and playing a tune known as "The Maxixe" when its tail was twisted, was used by Edith Russell to calm frightened children in the lifeboat in which she escaped. Her story became widely known in the press at the time and was later included in the best-selling account of the disasterA Night to Remember byWalter Lord. Russell was also portrayed in the award-winning British film produced byWilliam MacQuitty that was based on Lord's book.

Biography

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Early life

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Edith Louise Rosenbaum was born inCincinnati,Ohio, into a wealthy Jewish family in 1879.[1] Her father was Harry Rosenbaum, who rose to prominence in the dry goods field as a director of Louis Stix & Co. in Cincinnati. He was later influential as a cloak and suit manufacturer in his own right and an investor in garment industry real estate in New York, where he moved with his wife, the former Sophia Hollstein, and daughter Edith in 1902.[2] Edith was educated in Cincinnati public schools and a succession of finishing schools, including the Mt. Auburn Young Ladies Institute (later called the H. Thane Miller School) in Cincinnati and Miss Annabel's in Philadelphia. At age 16 in 1895 she attended the Misses Shipley's at Bryn Mawr and later Bryn Mawr College.[3]

Career

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Edith's career in fashion began in 1908, when she moved toParis to become a saleswoman for thehaute couture house ofChéruit in thePlace Vendôme. Shortly thereafter, she joined the Paris office ofLa dernière heure à Paris, an in-house fashion journal for the Philadelphia department storeWanamaker's. She also provided fashion sketches for the Butterick Pattern Service and to a number of American clothing stores and textile suppliers.[4]

In 1910 Rosenbaum was hired as a Paris correspondent for the newly established New York garment trade publicationWomen's Wear Daily. In this role, she reported regularly on the seasonal collections of the leading couture salonsPaquin,Lucile,Poiret,Doucet and her former employer Chéruit. At around this time, she became friends with the upcoming young couturier Jenny (Jeanne Sacerdote) and was one of her first customers, wearing her designs in a series of publicity photos for the house. In addition to covering the couture openings, Edith wrote a front page column that appeared almost daily in which she shared analyses of current trends, insider tips on new fabrics and styles, and impressions of the events and personalities of the French fashion world.[5]

Rosenbaum was involved in a serious automobile accident in 1911 in which her wealthy fiance, Ludwig Loewe, whose family owned a noted German arms manufacturing firm, was killed. She was traveling with friends to the races atDeauville when the car, driven by Loewe, crashed nearRouen. Edith suffered a concussion which caused some memory loss but no other significant injuries.[6]

By 1912, along with writing and reporting forWomen's Wear Daily, Rosenbaum worked as a buyer and purchasing agent in Paris for a number of American firms.[7] She also advised several well-known entertainment personalities on their wardrobes such as Broadway actressIna Claire and opera singerGeraldine Farrar, becoming one of the first known celebrity stylists.[8] At the same time she branched into designing, producing a clothing line called "Elrose" for the New York department storeLord & Taylor.[4] Among her Elrose clients were actressesMartha Hedman andEleanor Painter.

Edith Rosenbaum in 1911, the year she began work as a fashion stylist.

Between 1914 and 1919 Edith Rosenbaum was American press attaché for the governing body of the French fashion industry, the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, now called Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and a division of theFédération française de la couture.[9] She was a highly critical observer of the fashion industry, both in New York and Paris, and her opinions were frequently quoted in the press.[10] In 1915 she served as an advisor on the American Fashion Exhibit at thePanama–Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco.[11] Edith continued as a correspondent forWomen's Wear Daily until about 1917, although she contributed occasional articles thereafter.[12] In 1916 Edith designed a collection of sportswear for Sidney Blumenthal & Co., including golf skirts and jackets.[13] One of her coats for Blumenthal she officially copyrighted.[14]

For about three months during theFirst World War, Rosenbaum took a break from reporting on fashion by accepting a journalistic post with theAmerican Red Cross, dispatching news from the frontlines to the organization and the press. In this capacity, Edith was one of the first femalewar correspondents, sharing that distinction with theNew York Evening Journal'sNellie Bly. Other letters she wrote, detailing her experiences in the trenches, where she was embedded with French and British troops in 1917, were published sporadically, and independent accounts of her work appeared in theNew York World, theNew York Herald and several syndicated newspapers.[15] Edith's wartime correspondence was poignant and extensive but was unfortunately never published in full, although a number of original letters exist today in private collections. Edith was in the trenches four times, according to theNew York Herald, and in April 1917, while serving in a Red Cross hospital set up in a convent, was caught in the bombardment of theChemin des Dames during the famousSecond Battle of the Aisne.[16]

By 1916, through connections in the garment trade, Edith launched a secondary vocation as dog fancier, specializing in thePekingese breed.[17] A member of the Pekingese Club of America, Edith displayed her "Pekes" nationally until the mid 1920s and frequently traveled with them overseas.[18] She also bred dogs for a number of famous clients, includingMaurice Chevalier.[8] Her operation was called Wee Wong Kennels and was located in Freeport, Long Island, known for its champion brood, including Edith's own award-winning "Tiny Toy."[19] The kennels' popularity with theatrical celebrities inspired a spate of newsreel coverage in 1919.[20]

By 1920, due to rampantanti-German sentiment in Paris during and just after the war, Edith Anglicized her surname to "Russell." The French fashion industry in particular was rife with discrimination; couture houses were banning journalists, and in some cases former clients, who had German names.[21]

A 1922 advertisement for Edith Russell's fashion consulting and importing business.

In 1923 she was recognized by the Associated Dress Industries of America for her achievements and honored two years later by theInternational Ladies' Garment Workers Union for her work during the war. In the 1920s, Rosenbaum wrote for the magazinesCassell's in London andModa in Rome. From 1934, she slowly withdrew from the fashion industry.

Titanic and later life

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On April 5, 1912, Edith Rosenbaum, in her capacity as Paris correspondent forWomen's Wear Daily, filed a report on the fashions worn at the Auteuil races.[22] Eager to get back to New York with her purchases for the season, she booked passage on the George Washington to sail two days later, Easter Sunday.[23] But a wire from her editor, asking her to cover the Paris-Roubaix races on Sunday, caused her to delay her crossing until April 10 when she boarded theRMSTitanic, en route from Southampton to New York. In addition to her own First Class stateroom, A-11, she is believed to have reserved another for the accommodation of her 19 pieces of baggage; this extra room was possibly E-63. Before boarding atCherbourg, Edith asked about insuring her luggage but was reportedly told it was unnecessary since the ship was "unsinkable." After theTitanic's collision with an iceberg on the night of April 14, Edith said she felt a bump and went outside, where she saw the iceberg as the ship passed by it. She claimed to have locked all her trunks, containing the valuable couture merchandise she was importing, before going out on the deck. While sitting in the lounge, watching the general evacuation, she spied her room steward, Robert Wareham, and called to him. She told him she had heard theTitanic was going to be towed to Halifax while passengers were transferred to another ship, and she was worried about her luggage. But when she handed Wareham her trunk keys so he could check her bags through Customs for her, he told her to "kiss your trunks good-bye."[24]

The steward did return to Edith's cabin to fetch her "mascot," a small papier-mache music box in the shape of a pig, complete with black and white spotted fur. It played "The Maxixe," a then-popular song, when its tail was wound.[25] Discovering that in France, the pig was regarded as a good luck symbol, her mother had given the toy to Edith after the car wreck she survived the year before. Edith had promised her mother she would keep it with her always. When Wareham came back with the little trifle, wrapped in a blanket, Edith headed for the boat deck, ending up on the starboard side of the ship. There she was noticed byJ. Bruce Ismay, chairman of theWhite Star Line, the steamship company that owned theTitanic. He admonished her for not having gotten into a lifeboat yet and directed her down a stairwell to the deck below where one was being loaded.[26] There she was helped intoLifeboat No. 11 by a male passenger, after a crewman had seized her toy pig, perhaps thinking it was a live pet and tossed it in ahead of her. Boat 11 was lowered with an estimated 68 to 70 people aboard, including many children. Boat 11, overloaded by about five passengers, is believed to have carried the largest number of occupants of any lifeboats launched that night.

As Boat 11 rowed away from the sinking ship, Edith found herself surrounded by crying and fidgety children. She played her musical pig to calm and amuse them, twisting its tail to emit strains of "The Maxixe."[27] One of the children was 10-month-old Frank Aks, with whom she was reunited many years later, showing him the pig that had once entertained him.[28]

Rosenbaum later sued theWhite Star Line for the loss of her luggage. It was one of the largest claims filed against the shipping company in the aftermath of the disaster.[29]

Although retired from her work as a fashion buyer in Paris from about 1937, Edith Russell continued traveling extensively.[30] She remained active socially, befriending many celebrities during her stays in thesouth of France,Majorca,Lucerne, andRome, including theDuke of Windsor,Benito Mussolini andAnna Magnani. In addition, Edith maintained a close friendship with the couturier Jenny and actorPeter Lawford and his wifePatricia Kennedy Lawford, who made her a godmother to their children.[31]

Edith lived at London'sClaridge's Hotel in the 1940s, moving eventually to a suite at the Embassy House Hotel in Queens Gate, London. She seems to have been expatriated by the early 1950s. At this time, she became increasingly in demand as a pundit on theTitanic tragedy, which had reentered public consciousness due to recently released films and books about the event. She attended a special media preview of the movieTitanic in 1953, afterward giving interviews toLife magazine and the New York daily press.[32] She posed for photos carrying her famous toy pig, standing beside the dress she had worn on the fateful night. In 1955, historianWalter Lord published his best-sellerA Night to Remember, which featured Edith's story.[33] She later served as an advisor on the 1958 British film adaptation of Lord’s book, produced byWilliam MacQuitty. She and her lucky pig were also portrayed in the film.[34]

In her later years, Edith Russell and her toy pig were in demand for TV and radio talk shows.

In her later years, Edith became a regular guest on television and radio programs. Most of these aired on BBC-1 and BBC-2 channels, but she was also interviewed on television in France and Germany.[35] For her first TV interview in 1956, she brought along her trusty pig and retold the famous story of their escape from theTitanic. The pig's musical apparatus had broken by this time, however, and she was not able to play the tune.[36] In 1963, when theTitanic Historical Society was formed in the United States, Edith was made an honorary member. During these years, Edith also wrote a number of articles about herTitanic experiences for the popular press, among which were pieces appearing inPageant (1953),Woman's Own (1962), and theLadies Home Companion (1964).

Edith Rosenbaum Russell died at the Mary Abbott Hospital in London on April 4, 1975, at the age of 95.[37] Most of Edith's belongings were dispersed piecemeal among relatives and friends, including Walter Lord, who inherited her legendary pig. On Lord's death in 2002, the toy was bequeathed to theNational Maritime Museum in Greenwich, London, which also received the floral-printed boudoir slippers Edith had worn when she boarded Lifeboat 11.

Legacy

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In his 2001 expedition to the wreck of theTitanic, filmmakerJames Cameron and his team discovered Edith's cabin with its dressing table mirror still upright and intact. Photos of the room and an account of its exploration were published in the 2003 bookGhosts of the Abyss by Don Lynch and Ken Marschall. Edith was also portrayed in the accompanying documentary, released by Walt Disney Pictures.[38]

Pig on the Titanic byGary Crew, an illustrated children's book about Edith and her lucky mascot, was published in 2005 by HarperCollins (ISBN 0060523050).

During the 2012 centennial commemoration of the sinking of theTitanic, Edith's story resurfaced in newspaper and magazine articles as well as in museum exhibitions, notably at the National Maritime Museum, where her pig and slippers were displayed. The museum has since restored the mechanism within the music box which has allowed its tune to be heard for the first time in over 60 years. The song the toy played was confirmed to be that of "The Maxixe," otherwise known as "La Sorella march," a Brazilian tango ditty, originally written by Charles Borel-Clerc and Louis Gallini.[39]

Edith's story was extensively revisited that year in two well-received books about theTitanic: Hugh Brewster'sGilded Lives, Fatal Voyage and Andrew Wilson'sShadow of the Titanic. She was also featured in a further 2012 title,The Osborne Titanic Sticker Book, geared to children.

In 2014 an illustrated biographical account of Edith was included in the digital book that accompaniedTitanic by Sean Callery, part of Scholastic's "Discover More" children's series.

Portrayals

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Notes

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  1. ^Cincinnati Enquirer, June 16, 1890 and June 13, 1895
  2. ^New York Times, August 20, 1927
  3. ^Cincinnati Enquirer, June 9, 1895 and September 19, 1895;Kentucky Post, December 9, 1896
  4. ^ab"Edith Louise Rosenbaum Russell (1879-1975)". 28 August 2003.Archived from the original on 16 April 2017. Retrieved16 April 2017.
  5. ^Women's Wear Daily, May 25–26, July 25, August 22, September 6–8 and September 13, 1911 and February 8, March 5, March 7, April 10 and April 13, 1912.
  6. ^Le Figaro, August 22, 1911;Women's Wear Daily, August 23, 1911;New York Times, August 22, 1911.
  7. ^New York Herald, April 16, 1912.
  8. ^abThe National Examiner, August 27, 1973
  9. ^Women's Wear Daily, May 15, 1915; Crawford, M.D.C.,The Ways of Fashion (1948), pp. 121-122.
  10. ^American Cloak & Suit Review, March 1914, p. 167.
  11. ^Women's Wear Daily, June 30, 1915.
  12. ^Women's Wear Daily, March 27, 1916
  13. ^American Cloak & Suit Review, March 1916, p. 184a.
  14. ^Library of Congress Catalogue of Copyright Entries, No. 4, V. 11-12 (1916-1917), p. 7325.
  15. ^New York Herald, July 22, 1917;Kansas City Star, September 12, 1917.
  16. ^New York Herald, July 22, 1917.
  17. ^New York Herald, April 2, 1916;New York Times, January 17, 1922.
  18. ^American Kennel Gazette & Stud Book, September 30, 1922, p. 843;Freeport Daily Review, December 20, 1924.
  19. ^Nassau Daily Review, July 1, 1926.
  20. ^South Side Observer & Nassau Post, March 14, 1919.
  21. ^Women's Wear Daily, December 22, 1915.
  22. ^Women's Wear Daily, April 16, 1912.
  23. ^Ladies Home Companion, May 1964, p. 90.
  24. ^"BBC - Archive - Survivors of the Titanic - Line Up - Edith Russell".Archived from the original on 13 March 2017. Retrieved16 April 2017.
  25. ^BBC History Magazine (Titanic supplement), April 2012, p. 8.
  26. ^New York Times, April 23, 1912.
  27. ^"Listen to eerie music from Titanic sinking, 101 years on". Archived fromthe original on 3 June 2017. Retrieved16 April 2017.
  28. ^Life Magazine, May 18, 1953, p. 91.
  29. ^New York Herald, February 12, 1913.
  30. ^CinecittaLuce (17 June 2012)."Arrivi e partenze. Napoli. Palermo. Roma".Archived from the original on 10 March 2016. Retrieved16 April 2017 – via YouTube.
  31. ^Brewster, Hugh,Gilded Lives, Fatal Voyage (2012), p. 287; Lawford, Lady,Bitch: The Autobiography of Lady Lawford (1986), pp. 103-107.
  32. ^Life Magazine, May 18, 1953, p. 96.
  33. ^Lord, Walter,A Night to Remember (1955), pp. 44, 123, 187.
  34. ^MacQuitty, William,A Life to Remember (1994), p. 326.
  35. ^Observer, May 10, 1970;1963 French TV interview with Edith RussellArchived 2014-07-27 at theWayback Machine
  36. ^1956 BBC-TV interview with Edith RussellArchived 2014-05-31 at theWayback Machine
  37. ^New York Times, April 5, 1975;The Guardian, April 5, 1975.
  38. ^Lynch, Don and Marschall, Ken,Ghosts of the Abyss (2003), pp. 32, 106-107.
  39. ^Bennett-Smith, Meredith (23 August 2013)."Musical Toy Pig Rescued From Titanic Repaired, Once Again Plays Eerie Tune That Soothed Survivors".Archived from the original on 16 April 2017. Retrieved16 April 2017 – via Huff Post.

General references

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Further reading

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External links

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