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Dubrovnik

Coordinates:42°38′25″N18°06′30″E / 42.64028°N 18.10833°E /42.64028; 18.10833
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Coastal city in southern Croatia
This article is about the city in Croatia. For other uses, seeDubrovnik (disambiguation) andRagusa.

City in Dalmatia, Croatia
Dubrovnik
Grad Dubrovnik
City of Dubrovnik
Nicknames: 
"Pearl of the Adriatic", "Thesaurum mundi"[1]
Map
Interactive map of Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is located in Croatia
Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik
The location of Dubrovnik within Croatia
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Dubrovnik is located in Europe
Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik (Europe)
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Coordinates:42°38′25″N18°06′30″E / 42.64028°N 18.10833°E /42.64028; 18.10833
CountryCroatia
RegionDalmatia
CountyDubrovnik-Neretva
Government
 • TypeMayor-Council
 • MayorMato Franković (HDZ)
 • City Council
21 members
Area
 • City
142.6 km2 (55.1 sq mi)
 • Urban
12.1 km2 (4.7 sq mi)
Elevation
3 m (9.8 ft)
Population
 (2021)[3]
 • City
41,562
 • Density291.5/km2 (754.9/sq mi)
 • Urban
26,922
 • Urban density2,220/km2 (5,760/sq mi)
 • Metro
65,808
Demonym(s)Dubrovčanin (hr, male)
Dubrovčanka (hr, female)
Dubrovkinja (local, female)[4]
Time zoneUTC+1 (CET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+2 (CEST)
Postal code
HR-20 000
Area code+385 20
Vehicle registrationDU
Patron saintSaint Blaise
Websitedubrovnik.hr
Map
Interactive map of Dubrovnik
Official nameOld City of Dubrovnik
CriteriaCultural: (i)(iii)(iv)
Reference95
Inscription1979 (3rdSession)
Area96.7 ha (239 acres)

Dubrovnik,[a] historically known asRagusa,[b] is a city in southernDalmatia,Croatia, by theAdriatic Sea. It is one of the most prominenttourist destinations in theMediterranean, aseaport and the centre of theDubrovnik-Neretva County. In 2021, its total population was 41,562.[7] Recognizing its outstanding medieval architecture and fortifications,UNESCO inscribed the Old City of Dubrovnik as aWorld Heritage Site in 1979.[8]

The city probably dates to the 7th century, when the town known asRagusa was founded by refugees fromEpidaurum (Ragusa Vecchia). It was underprotectorate of theByzantine Empire and later the sovereignty of theRepublic of Venice. Between the 14th and 19th centuries, Dubrovnik ruled itself as afree state. Its prosperity was historically based onmaritime trade; as the capital of the maritimeRepublic of Ragusa, it achieved a high level of development, particularly during the 15th and 16th centuries, as it became notable for its wealth and skilleddiplomacy.

The city was almost destroyed in adevastating earthquake in 1667. During theNapoleonic Wars, Dubrovnik was occupied by theFrench Empire forces, and then the Republic of Ragusa was abolished and incorporated into theNapoleonic Kingdom of Italy and later into theIllyrian Provinces of France. In the early 19th to early 20th century, Dubrovnik was part of theKingdom of Dalmatia within theAustrian Empire. Dubrovnik became part of theKingdom of Yugoslavia immediately uponits creation, and it was incorporated into itsZeta Banovina in 1929, before becoming part of theBanovina of Croatia uponits creation in 1939. DuringWorld War II, it was part of theAxispuppet stateIndependent State of Croatia, before being reincorporated intoSocialist Republic of Croatia inSocialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.

In 1991, during theCroatian War of Independence, Dubrovnik wasbesieged by theYugoslav People's Army for seven months and suffered significant damage from shelling. After undergoing repair and restoration works in the 1990s and early 2000s, it reemerged as one of the Mediterranean's toptourist destinations, as well as a popularfilming location. Often called "The Queen of theAdriatic",[9] Dubrovnik is one of the most popular destinations in theAdriatic and inEurope.

Names

[edit]

The namesDubrovnik andRagusa co-existed for several centuries.[10]Ragusa, recorded in various forms since at least the 10th century (inLatin,Dalmatian,Italian; inVenetian:Raguxa), remained the official name of theRepublic of Ragusa until 1808, and of the city within theKingdom of Dalmatia until 1918, whileDubrovnik, first recorded in the late 12th century, was in widespread use by the late 16th or early 17th century.[11]

The nameDubrovnik of the Adriatic city is first recorded in theCharter of Ban Kulin (1189).[12] The most common explanation for the origin is from aProto-Slavic word*dǫbъ meaning 'oak', and the termdubrovnik referring to 'oak wood' or 'oak forest', asdǫbrava means 'oakwood', 'forest'.[13]

The historical nameRagusa is recorded in the Greek formῬαούσιν (Rhaousin, LatinizedRagusium) in the 10th century. It was recorded in various forms in the medieval period,Rausia,Lavusa,Labusa,Raugia,Rachusa. Various attempts have been made to etymologize the name. Suggestions include derivation from Greekῥάξ,ῥαγός "grape"; from Greekῥώξ,ῥωγός "narrow passage"; Greekῥωγάς "ragged (of rocks)",ῥαγή (ῥαγάς) "fissure"; from the name of the Epirote tribe of theRhogoi, from an unidentifiedIllyrian substrate. A connection to the name ofSicilian Ragusa has also been proposed. It has been proposed byV. Orel that theProto-Albanian *rāguša of Albanianrrush 'grape' is related toRagusa or the source of the name. Putanec (1993) gives a review of etymological suggestion, and favours an explanation of the name as pre-Greek ("Pelasgian"), from a root cognate to Greekῥαγή "fissure", with a suffix-ussa also found in the Greek name ofBrač,Elaphousa.[14] The name of the city in the nativeDalmatian language, now extinct, wasRagusa, as shown by a 1325 letter in Dalmatian.[15] In Albanian, the city was historically referred to asRush (Albaniandefinite form:Rushi), from LatinRagusium.[16]

The classical explanation of the name is due toConstantine VII'sDe Administrando Imperio (10th century). According to this account, Ragusa (Ῥαούσιν) is the foundation of the refugees fromEpidaurum (Ragusa Vecchia), a Greek city situated some 15 km (9 mi) to the south of Ragusa, when that city was destroyed in the Slavic incursions of the 7th century. The name is explained as a corruption of aDalmatae/Romance wordLausa, the name of the rocky island on which the city was built (connected by Constantine to Greekλᾶας "rock, stone").[17]

History

[edit]

Origins

[edit]
Painting of Ragusa from 1667
Territory of theRepublic of Ragusa in the early 18th century. Cropped from a map by French cartographerNicolas de Fer titledLe Golfe de Venise (etc.). Circa 1716.

Dubrovnik was inhabited by theIllyrian tribe ofPleraei in ancient times.[18] According toConstantine Porphyrogenitus'sDe Administrando Imperio (c. 950), Ragusa was founded in the 7th century, named after a "rocky island" calledLausa, by refugees fromEpidaurum (Ragusa Vecchia), a Roman city situated some 15 km (9.3 mi) to the south, when that city was destroyed by Slavs fighting with the Avars.[19] It was one of theDalmatian city-states.

Excavations in 2007 revealed aByzantine basilica from the 8th century and parts of thecity walls.The size of the old basilica clearly indicates that there was quite a large settlement at the time.There is also evidence for the presence of a settlement in the pre-Christian era, most notably the finding of ancient coins from the 3rd and 2nd century BC, as well as archeological fragments from the 1st century BC in the area of the old City port.[20][21][22]

Antun Ničetić, in his 1996 bookPovijest dubrovačke luke ("History of the Port of Dubrovnik"), expounds the theory that Dubrovnik was established by Greek sailors,[citation needed] as a station halfway between the two Greek settlements ofBudva andKorčula, 95 nautical miles (176 km; 109 mi) apart from each of them.

Republic of Ragusa

[edit]
Main article:Republic of Ragusa
A 1900photochrom of the Big Onofrio's fountain (1438)
Ariel overview of Lazareti of Dubrovnik
Aerial view ofLazareti complex

After the fall of theOstrogothic Kingdom, the town came under theprotection of theByzantine Empire. In the 12th and 13th centuries, Dubrovnik grew into an oligarchic republic. After theCrusades, Dubrovnik came under the sovereignty ofVenice (1205–1358), which would give its institutions to the Dalmatian city. In 1240 Ragusa purchased the island ofLastovo fromStefan Uroš I, king ofSerbia, who had rights over the island as ruler of parts ofZachlumia.[23] After a fire destroyed most of the city on the night of August 16, 1296, a new urban plan was developed.[24][25][26] By thePeace Treaty of Zadar in 1358, Dubrovnik achieved relative independence as a vassal-state of theKingdom of Hungary.

Between the 14th century and 1808, Dubrovnik ruled itself as afree state, although it was a tributary from 1382 to 1804 of theOttoman Empire and paid an annual tribute to its sultan.[27] The Republic reached its peak in the 15th and 16th centuries, when itsthalassocracy rivalled that of theRepublic of Venice and other Italian maritime republics.

There are also signs of a long establishedAlbanian population in the Ragusan hinterlands since at least the Medieval period.[28] And a Ragusan document dating to 1285 states: "I heard a voice crying in the mountains inAlbanian" (Audivi unam vocem clamantem in monte in lingua albanesca).[29]

For centuries, Dubrovnik was an ally ofAncona, the other Adriaticmaritime republic rival of Venice, which was itself theOttoman Empire's chief rival for control of the Adriatic. This alliance enabled the two towns set on opposite sides of the Adriatic to resist attempts by the Venetians to make the Adriatic a "Venetian Bay", also controlling directly or indirectly all the Adriatic ports. Ancona and Dubrovnik developed an alternative trade route to the Venetian (Venice–AustriaGermany): starting in Dubrovnik it went on to Ancona, throughFlorence and ended inFlanders. Ragusa was an important base for the traffic of theBalkan slave trade, from which slaves were transported from the Balkans across the Adriatic Sea to theAegean Sea,[30] from which they were sold on to eitherslavery in Spain in the West orslavery in Egypt in the South.[30]

The Republic of Ragusa received its own Statutes as early as 1272, which, among other things, codified Roman practice and local customs. The Statutes included prescriptions fortown planning and the regulation of quarantine (for sanitary reasons).[31]

The Republic was an early adopter of what are now regarded as modern laws and institutions: a medical service was introduced in 1301, with the firstpharmacy, still operating to this day, being opened in 1317. Analmshouse was opened in 1347, and the first quarantine hospital (Lazarete) was established in 1377.Slave trading (Balkan slave trade) was abolished in 1418, and anorphanage opened in 1432. A 20 km (12 mi)water supply system, instead of a cistern, was constructed in 1438 by the Neapolitan architect and engineer Onofrio della Cava. He completed the aqueduct with two public fountains. He also built a number of mills along one of its branches.

The city was ruled by the localaristocracy which was of Latin-Dalmatian extraction and formed twocity councils. As usual for the time, they maintained a strict system ofsocial classes. The republic abolished theslave trade early in the 15th century and valued liberty highly. The city successfully balanced its sovereignty between the interests of Venice and theOttoman Empire for centuries.

Latin was originally used in official documents of the Republic.Italian came to use in the early 15th century. A variant of the Dalmatian language was among the spoken ones, and was influenced byCroatian and Italian. The presence of Croatian in everyday speech increased in the late 13th century, and in literary works in the mid-15th century.[32] In the coming decades, Dubrovnik became a cradle ofCroatian literature.[33]

The economic wealth of the Republic was partially the result of the land it developed, but especially of seafaring trade. With the help of skilled diplomacy, Dubrovnik merchants travelled lands freely and the city had a huge fleet ofmerchant ships (known asargosy) that travelled all over the world. From these travels they founded some settlements, from India (cf.Ragusan trade with India) to America, and brought parts of their culture and flora home with them. One of its keys to success was not conquering, but trading and sailing under a white flag with theLatin:Libertas word (freedom) prominently featured on it. The flag was adopted when slave trading was abolished in 1418.

In search of Indian spices and textiles, merchants from Dubrovnik arrived in Goa, India, and settled in what is now called Gandauli. The people of Dubrovnik arrived in the Portuguese colony of Goa between 1530 and 1535, and after that they founded their own colony, Sao Braz, named after the patron saint of Dubrovnik, St. Blaise. The church was built around 1563 and was a replica of the original church of St. Blaise in Dubrovnik. About 12,000 inhabitants lived in São Braz and was a thriving colony until the 1570s when trade between Croats and Indians declined.[34][35][36]

ManyConversos, Jews from Spain andPortugal who converted to Christianity, were attracted to the city. In May 1544, a ship landed there filled exclusively with Portuguese refugees, as Balthasar de Faria reported to King John. During this time one of the most famous cannon and bell founders of his time worked in the city:Ivan Rabljanin (also known as Magister Johannes Baptista Arbensis de la Tolle). By 1571 Dubrovnik had sold its protection over some Christian settlements in other parts of the Ottoman Empire to France andVenice. At that time there was also a colony of Dubrovnik inFes in Morocco. The bishop of Dubrovnik was aCardinal protector in 1571, at that time there were only 16 other countries which had Cardinal protectors.

Dubrovnik was a tributary state of the Ottoman Empire at one time. From this, they gained benefits such as access to theBlack Sea, paid less customs duties (they however needed to make tribute payments) and had the diplomatic support of the Turks in trade disputes against theVenetians. This status also allowed increased trade with the inland regions through the Balkan overland trade which made merchants from Dubrovnik to build up a strong network unequaled with other Christian states.[37]

Dubrovnik before the earthquake in 1667

The Republic gradually declined due to a combination of aMediterranean shipping crisis and the catastrophicearthquake of 1667[38] that killed over 5,000 citizens, levelled most of the public buildings and, consequently, negatively affected thewell-being of the Republic. In 1699, the Republic was forced to selltwo mainland patches of its territory to the Ottomans in order to avoid being caught in the clash with advancing Venetian forces. Today this strip of land belongs toBosnia and Herzegovina and is that country's only direct access to the Adriatic. A highlight of Dubrovnik's diplomacy was the involvement in theAmerican Revolution.[clarification needed][39]

Early modern period

[edit]
Territory of the Republic before 1808

On 27 May 1806, the forces of theEmpire of France occupied the neutralRepublic of Ragusa. Upon entering Ragusan territory without permission and approaching the capital, the French GeneralJacques Lauriston demanded that his troops be allowed to rest and be provided with food and drink in the city before continuing on to take possession of their holdings in theBay of Kotor. However, this was a deception because as soon as they entered the city, they proceeded to occupy it in the name of Napoleon.[40] Almost immediately after the beginning of the French occupation, Russian and Montenegrin troops entered Ragusan territory and began fighting the French army, raiding and pillaging everything along the way and culminating ina siege of the occupied city during which 3,000 cannonballs fell on it.[41] In 1808Marshal Marmont issued a proclamation abolishing theRepublic of Ragusa and amalgamating its territory into the French Empire's client state, theNapoleonic Kingdom of Italy. Marmont claimed the newly created title of "Duke of Ragusa" (Duc de Raguse) and in 1810 Ragusa, together withIstria andDalmatia, went to the newly created FrenchIllyrian Provinces.

Dubrovnik's formerJesuit college and Jesuit stairs c. 1900

After seven years of French occupation, encouraged by the desertion of French soldiers after the failedinvasion of Russia and the reentry of Austria in thewar, all the social classes of the Ragusan people rose up in a general insurrection, led by the patricians, against the Napoleonic invaders.[42] On 18 June 1813, together with British forces they forced the surrender of the French garrison of the island ofŠipan, soon also the heavily fortified town ofSton and the island ofLopud, after which the insurrection spread throughout the mainland, starting withKonavle.[43] They thenlaid siege to the occupied city, helped by the BritishRoyal Navy, who had enjoyedunopposed domination over the Adriatic sea, under the command of CaptainWilliam Hoste, with his ships HMSBacchante andHMS Saracen. Soon the population inside the city joined the insurrection.[44] TheAustrian Empire sent a force under General Todor Milutinović offering to help their Ragusan allies.[45] However, as was soon shown, their intention was to in fact replace the French occupation of Ragusa with their own. Seducing one of the temporary governors of the Republic,Biagio Bernardo Caboga, with promises of power and influence (which were later cut short and who died in ignominy, branded as a traitor by his people), they managed to convince him that the gate to the east was to be kept closed to the Ragusan forces and to let the Austrian forces enter the City from the west, without any Ragusan soldiers, once the French garrison of 500 troops under GeneralJoseph de Montrichard had surrendered.[46]

After this, the Flag of Saint Blaise was flown alongside the Austrian and British colors, but only for two days because, on 30 January, General Milutinović ordered Mayor Sabo Giorgi to lower it. Overwhelmed by a feeling of deep patriotic pride, Giorgi, the last Rector of the Republic, refused to do so "for the masses had hoisted it". Subsequent events proved that Austria took every possible opportunity to invade the entire coast of the eastern Adriatic, from Venice toKotor. The Austrians did everything in their power to eliminate the Ragusa issue at theCongress of Vienna. Ragusan representativeMiho Bona, elected at the last meeting of the Major Council, was denied participation in the Congress, while Milutinović, prior to the final agreement of the allies, assumed complete control of the city.[47]: 141–142 

Regardless of the fact that the government of the Ragusan Republic never signed any capitulation nor relinquished its sovereignty, which according to the rules ofKlemens von Metternich that Austria adopted for the Vienna Congress should have meant that the Republic would be restored, the Austrian Empire managed to convince the other allies to allow it to keep the territory of the Republic.[48] While many smaller and less significant cities and former countries were permitted an audience, that right was refused to the representative of the Ragusan Republic.[49] All of this was in blatant contradiction to the solemn treaties that the Austrian Emperors signed with the Republic: the first on 20 August 1684, in whichLeopold I promises and guarantees inviolate liberty ("inviolatam libertatem") to the Republic, and the second in 1772, in which the EmpressMaria Theresa promises protection and respect of the inviolability of the freedom and territory of the Republic.[50]

Languages

[edit]
The "Libertas" Flag of Dubrovnik

Theofficial language until 1472 wasLatin. As a consequence of the increasing migration of Slavic population from inland Dalmatia, the language spoken by much of the population wasCroatian, typically referred to in Dubrovnik's historical documents simply as "Slavic". To oppose the demographic change due to increased Slavic immigration from the Balkans, the native Romance population of Ragusa, which made up the oligarchic government of the Republic, tried to prohibit the use of any Slavic languages in official councils.[51] Archeologists have also discovered medievalGlagolitic tablets near Dubrovnik, such as theinscription of Župa Dubrovačka, indicating that the Glagolitic script was also likely once used in the city.

TheItalian language as spoken in the republic was heavily influenced by theVenetian language and theTuscan dialect. Italian took root among the Dalmatian-speaking merchant upper classes, as a result of Venetian influence which strengthened the original Latin element of the population.[52][53]

On 14 July 1284 in Ragusa, theAlbanian language was attested for the first time in history when a crime witness testified: "I heard a voice crying on the mountain in the Albanian language" (Latin:Audivi unam vocem, clamantem in monte in lingua albanesca).[54][55]

Austrian rule

[edit]
Unveiling of the Gundulić monument in 1893
Dubrovnik'sStradun in 1910

When theHabsburg Empire annexed these provinces after the 1815Congress of Vienna, the new authorities implemented a bureaucratic administration, established theKingdom of Dalmatia, which had its own Sabor (Diet) or Parliament which is the oldest Croatian political institution based in the city ofZadar, and political parties such as theAutonomist Party and thePeople's Party. They introduced a series of modifications intended to slowlycentralise the bureaucratic, tax, religious, educational, and trade structure. These steps largely failed, despite the intention of wanting to stimulate the economy. Once the personal, political and economic damage ofthe Napoleonic Wars had been overcome, new movements began to form in the region, calling for a political reorganisation of the Adriatic along national lines.[citation needed]

The combination of these two forces—a flawed Habsburg administrative system and new national movement claiming ethnicity as the founding block toward a community—posed a particularly perplexing problem: Dalmatia was a province ruled by the German-speakingHabsburg monarchy, with bilingual (Croatian- and Italian-speaking) elites that dominated the general population consisting of a Slavic Catholic majority, as well as aSlavic Orthodox minority.

In 1815, the former Dubrovnik government (its noble assembly) met for the last time in Ljetnikovac inMokošica. Once again, extreme measures were taken to re-establish the Republic, but it was all in vain. After the fall of the Republic most of the aristocracy was recognised by the Austrian Empire.

In 1832, BaronŠišmundo Getaldić-Gundulić (Sigismondo Ghetaldi-Gondola) (1795–1860) was elected Mayor of Dubrovnik, serving for 13 years; the Austrian government granted him the title of "Baron".

Count Rafael Pucić (Raffaele Pozza) (1828–1890) was elected for first time Podestà of Dubrovnik in the year 1869 after this was re-elected in 1872, 1875, 1882, 1884) and elected twice into the Dalmatian Council, 1870, 1876. The victory of the Nationalists inSplit in 1882 strongly affected in the areas of Korčula and Dubrovnik. It was greeted by the mayor (podestà) of Dubrovnik Rafael Pucić, the National Reading Club of Dubrovnik, the Workers Association of Dubrovnik and the review "Slovinac" as well as by the communities of Kuna and Orebić, the latter one getting the nationalist government even before Split.

Dubrovnik railway station

In 1901, the narrow-gauge (760 mm) railway line was opened primarily to connect the port city of Dubrovnik with the interior of Bosnia and Herzegovina and further into Europe.[56] The line was operational from 1901 to 1976.[57]

In 1905, the Committee for establishing electrictram service, headed by Luko Bunić was established. Other members of the Committee were Ivo Papi, Miho Papi, Artur Saraka, Mato Šarić, Antun Pugliesi, Mato Gracić, Ivo Degiulli, Ernest Katić and Antun Milić.[58]The tram service in Dubrovnik existed from 1910 to 1970.

Pero Čingrija (1837–1921), one of the leaders of the People's Party in Dalmatia,[59] played the main role in the merger of the People's Party and the Party of Right into a single Croatian Party in 1905.

Yugoslav period (1918–1991)

[edit]
City plan of Dubrovnik in 1930s
Port of Dubrovnik in 1965

Withthe fall ofAustria-Hungary in 1918, the city was incorporated into the new Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes (later renamed toKingdom of Yugoslavia). Dubrovnik became one of the 33oblasts of the Kingdom. When Yugoslavia was divided among ninebanovinas in 1929, the city became part of theZeta Banovina. In 1939, Dubrovnik became part of thenewly createdBanovina of Croatia.

During theWorld War II in Yugoslavia, Dubrovnik became part of theAxispuppet state,Independent State of Croatia (NDH), occupied by theItalian Army first, and by theGerman Army after 8 September 1943. There were clashes between Italian and German troops in Dubrovnik when the Germans took over.[60] In October 1944,Yugoslav Partisans liberated Dubrovnik, arresting more than 300 citizens and executing 53 without trial; this event came to be known, after the small island on which it occurred, as theDaksa executions.[citation needed] Communist leadership during the next several years continued political prosecutions, which culminated on 12 April 1947 with the capture and imprisonment of more than 90 citizens of Dubrovnik.[61] After the war the remaining members ofDalmatian Italians of Dubrovnik left Yugoslavia towards Italy (Istrian-Dalmatian exodus).[62]

Under communism Dubrovnik became part ofSR Croatia withinSFR Yugoslavia. After the World War II, the city started to attract crowds of tourists–even more after 1979, when the city joined theUNESCO list ofWorld Heritage Sites. The growth of tourism also led to the decision to demilitarise the Dubrovnik Old Town. The income from tourism was pivotal in the post-war development of the city, including its airport.[63] TheDubrovnik Summer Festival was founded in 1950.[64] TheAdriatic Highway (Magistrala) was opened in 1965 after a decade of works, connecting Dubrovnik withRijeka along the whole coastline, and giving a boost to the tourist development of the Croatian Riviera.[65]

Siege of Dubrovnik and its consequences

[edit]
Main article:Siege of Dubrovnik
Stradun shelled during theSiege of Dubrovnik (1991)

In 1991, Croatia andSlovenia, which at that time were republics within SFR Yugoslavia, declared their independence. The Socialist Republic of Croatia was renamed as theRepublic of Croatia.

Despite thedemilitarisation of the Old Town in early 1970s in an attempt to prevent it from ever becoming a casualty of war, followingCroatia's independence in 1991,Yugoslav People's Army (JNA)–by then composed primarily ofSerbs–attacked the city. The newCroatian government set up a military outpost in the city itself.Montenegro–led byPresidentMomir Bulatović andPrime MinisterMilo Đukanović, who came to power in theAnti-bureaucratic revolution and were allied toSlobodan Milošević inSerbia–declared that Dubrovnik should not remain in Croatia. At the time most residents of Dubrovnik had come to identify asCroatian, withSerbs accounting for 6.8 percent of the population.[66]

On 1 October 1991, Dubrovnik was attacked by the JNA resulting ina siege that lasted for seven months. The heaviest artillery attack was on 6 December with 19 people killed and 60 wounded. The number of casualties in the conflict, according to theCroatian Red Cross, was 114 killed civilians, among them poetMilan Milišić. Foreign newspapers were criticised for placing heavier attention on the damage suffered by the Old Town than on human casualties.[67] Nonetheless, the artillery attacks on Dubrovnik damaged 56% of its buildings to some degree, as the historic walled city, aUNESCO World Heritage Site, sustained 650 hits by artillery rounds.[68] TheCroatian Army lifted the siege in May 1992, andliberated Dubrovnik's surroundings by the end of October, but the danger of sudden attacks by the JNA lasted for another three years.[69]

Following the end of thewar, damage caused by the shelling of the Old Town was repaired. Adhering to UNESCO guidelines, repairs were performed in the original style. Most of the reconstruction work was done between 1995 and 1999.[70] The inflicted damage can be seen on a chart near the city gate, showing all artillery hits during the siege, and is clearly visible from high points around the city in the form of the more brightly coloured new roofs.

TheInternational Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia (ICTY) issued indictments for JNA generals and officers involved in the bombing. GeneralPavle Strugar, who coordinated the attack on the city, was sentenced to a seven-and-a-half-year prison term by the tribunal for his role in the attack.[71]

Post-war Dubrovnik in Republic of Croatia

[edit]
Wreckage of IFO-21 on a mountain near Dubrovnik

The1996 Croatia USAF CT-43 crash, nearDubrovnik Airport, killed everyone on aUnited States Air Force jet, includingUnited States Secretary of CommerceRon Brown,The New York Times Frankfurt Bureau chiefNathaniel C. Nash, and 33 other people.[72]

In October 2023, Dubrovnik joined the European Network of Saint James Way Paths, with a 147-kilometer pilgrimage route "Camino Dubrovnik-Međugorje", expected to be open to visitors in May 2024.[73]

Geography

[edit]

Dubrovnik is located in the southern tip of theDalmatia region ofCroatia in theAdriatic Sea. It is part of theDubrovnik-Neretva County and borders the municipality ofDubrovačko Primorje to the north, more specifically theMajkovi village.

Islands

[edit]
Main article:Elaphiti Islands
Lopud Island
Lokrum island behind Dubrovnik's old town
Koločep island

There are several islands (part of theElaphiti Islands archipelago) off the coast of Dubrovnik, including from north to south (the islands in bold are larger and populated, and most of the others are uninhabited):

Another island disputedly part of theElaphiti Islands is:

Climate

[edit]

Dubrovnik has ahot-summer Mediterranean climate (Köppen climate classification:Csa), that is bordering closely on ahumid subtropical climate (Köppen climate classification:Cfa).[74] Dubrovnik has hot, muggy, relatively dry summers and mild to cool wet winters. Thebora wind blows cold gusts down the Adriatic coast between October and April, and thundery conditions are common year round, even in summer, when they interrupt the warm, sunny days. The air temperatures can slightly vary, depending on the area or region. Typically, in July and August daytime maximum temperatures reach 28 °C (82 °F), and at night drop to approximately 23 °C (73 °F). In spring and autumn, maximum temperatures are typically between 20 °C (68 °F) and 28 °C (82 °F). Dubrovnik has the mildest winters of any Croatian city, with daytime temperatures around 13 °C (55 °F) in the coldest months. Snow in Dubrovnik is very rare.

Since records began in 1961, the highest temperature recorded at the local weather station at an elevation of 52 metres (171 ft) was 38.4 °C (101.1 °F), on 7 August 2012.[75] The coldest temperature was −7.0 °C (19.4 °F), on 14 January 1968.[76]

Climate data for Dubrovnik (1971–2000, extremes 1961–2019)
MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDecYear
Record high °C (°F)18.4
(65.1)
24.1
(75.4)
26.8
(80.2)
30.3
(86.5)
32.9
(91.2)
37.5
(99.5)
37.9
(100.2)
38.9
(102.0)
34.8
(94.6)
30.5
(86.9)
25.4
(77.7)
20.4
(68.7)
38.9
(102.0)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F)12.3
(54.1)
12.6
(54.7)
14.4
(57.9)
16.9
(62.4)
21.5
(70.7)
25.3
(77.5)
28.2
(82.8)
28.5
(83.3)
25.1
(77.2)
21.1
(70.0)
16.6
(61.9)
13.4
(56.1)
19.7
(67.5)
Daily mean °C (°F)9.2
(48.6)
9.4
(48.9)
11.1
(52.0)
13.8
(56.8)
18.3
(64.9)
22.0
(71.6)
24.6
(76.3)
24.8
(76.6)
21.4
(70.5)
17.6
(63.7)
13.3
(55.9)
10.3
(50.5)
16.3
(61.3)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F)6.6
(43.9)
6.8
(44.2)
8.4
(47.1)
11.0
(51.8)
15.3
(59.5)
18.9
(66.0)
21.4
(70.5)
21.6
(70.9)
18.4
(65.1)
14.9
(58.8)
10.7
(51.3)
7.8
(46.0)
13.5
(56.3)
Record low °C (°F)−7.0
(19.4)
−5.2
(22.6)
−4.2
(24.4)
1.6
(34.9)
5.2
(41.4)
10.0
(50.0)
14.1
(57.4)
14.1
(57.4)
8.5
(47.3)
4.5
(40.1)
−1.0
(30.2)
−6.0
(21.2)
−7.0
(19.4)
Averageprecipitation mm (inches)98.3
(3.87)
97.9
(3.85)
93.1
(3.67)
91.4
(3.60)
70.1
(2.76)
44.0
(1.73)
28.3
(1.11)
72.5
(2.85)
86.1
(3.39)
120.1
(4.73)
142.3
(5.60)
119.8
(4.72)
1,064
(41.89)
Average precipitation days(≥ 0.1 mm)11.211.211.212.09.46.44.75.17.210.812.412.0113.6
Averagerelative humidity (%)59.958.461.264.266.763.858.259.261.962.262.460.361.5
Mean monthlysunshine hours130.2142.8179.8207.0266.6312.0347.2325.5309.0189.1135.0124.02,668.2
Source:Croatian Meteorological and Hydrological Service[77][78]
Climate data for Dubrovnik
MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDecYear
Average sea temperature °C (°F)14.1
(57.4)
14.2
(57.6)
14.4
(57.9)
15.6
(60.1)
18.7
(65.7)
23.1
(73.6)
25.5
(77.9)
25.4
(77.7)
24.3
(75.7)
20.7
(69.3)
18.2
(64.8)
15.7
(60.3)
19.2
(66.5)
Mean daily daylight hours9.011.012.013.015.015.015.014.012.011.010.09.012.2
AverageUltraviolet index1245789864214.8
Source: Weather Atlas[79]

Heritage

[edit]
Old City of Dubrovnik
Native name
Stari grad Dubrovnik (Croatian)
Top-down aerial view of old town Dubrovnik
Map
Interactive map of Old City of Dubrovnik
LocationDubrovnik-Neretva County, Croatia
Coordinates42°38′27″N18°06′36″E / 42.6408°N 18.1100°E /42.6408; 18.1100
TypeCultural
Criteriai, iii, iv
Designated1979(3rdSession)
Reference no.95
Europe and North America
Extension1994
Endangered1991–1998
Official nameStari grad Dubrovnik

The annualDubrovnik Summer Festival is a 45-day-long cultural event with live plays, concerts and games. It has been awarded a Gold International Trophy for Quality (2007) by the Editorial Office in collaboration with the Trade Leaders Club.

Thepatron saint of the city isSveti Vlaho (Saint Blaise), whose statues are seen around the city. He has an importance similar to that ofSt. Mark the Evangelist to Venice. One of the larger churches in the city is named after Saint Blaise.February 3 is the feast of Sveti Vlaho. Every year the city of Dubrovnik celebrates the holiday with Mass, parades, and festivities that last for several days.[80]

The Old Town of Dubrovnik is depicted on thereverse of the Croatian 50kuna banknote, issued in 1993 and 2002.[81]

The city boasts many old buildings, such as theArboretum Trsteno, the oldestarboretum in the world, which dates back to before 1492. Also, the third-oldest Europeanpharmacy and the oldest still in operation, having been founded in 1317, is in Dubrovnik, at the Franciscan monastery.[82]

In history, many Conversos (Marranos) were attracted to Dubrovnik, formerly a considerable seaport. In May 1544, a ship landed there filled exclusively withPortuguese refugees, as Balthasar de Faria reported to King John. Another admirer of Dubrovnik,George Bernard Shaw, visited the city in 1929 and said: "If you want to see heaven on earth, come to Dubrovnik."[83]

In the bay of Dubrovnik is the 72-hectare (180-acre) wooded island ofLokrum, where according to legend,Richard the Lionheart, King of England, was cast ashore after beingshipwrecked in 1192. The island includes a fortress,botanical garden,monastery andnaturist beach.

Among the many tourist destinations are a few beaches. Banje, Dubrovnik's main publicbeach, is home to the Eastwest Beach Club. There is also Copacabana Beach, a stony beach on the Lapad peninsula,[84] named after the popular beach inRio de Janeiro.

By 2018, the city had to take steps to reduce the excessive number of tourists, especially in the Old Town. One method to moderate the overcrowding was to stagger the arrival/departure times of cruise ships to spread the number of visitors more evenly during the week.[85] In 2023, Dubrovnik's mayor closed the terrace of a bar in Stradun for the nuisance it created for the neighborhood and announced a ban on wheeled luggage in the old town to limit noise on paved streets of the Old Town.[86]

Important monuments

[edit]
Rector's Palace

Few of Dubrovnik's Renaissance buildings survived the earthquake of 1667 but enough remained to give an idea of the city's architectural heritage.[87] The finest Renaissance highlight is theSponza Palace which dates from the 16th century and is currently used to house the National Archives.[88] TheRector's Palace is a Gothic-Renaissance structure that displays finely carved capitals and an ornate staircase. It now houses a museum.[89][90] Its façade is depicted on thereverse of the Croatian 50kuna banknote, issued in 1993 and 2002.[81] TheSt. Saviour Church is another remnant of the Renaissance period, next to the much-visitedFranciscan Church and Monastery.[82][91][92] The Franciscan monastery's library possesses 30,000 volumes, 216 incunabula, and 1,500 valuable handwritten documents. Exhibits include a 15th-century silver-gilt cross and silverthurible, an 18th-century crucifix from Jerusalem, amartyrology (1541) by Bernardin Gučetić and illuminatedpsalters.[82]

St Blaise's church was built in the 18th century in honour of Dubrovnik's patron saint. The baroqueDubrovnik Cathedral was built in the 18th century and houses relics ofSaint Blaise. The city's Dominican Monastery resembles a fortress on the outside and the interior contains an art museum and a Gothic-Romanesque church.[93][94] The Dominican monastery has a library with 216incunabula, illustrated manuscripts, an archive and an art collection.[95][96][97]

Lovrijenac and Bokar fortifications

The Neapolitan architect and engineerOnofrio della Cava completed the aqueduct with two public fountains, both built in 1438. Close to the Pile Gate stands the Big Onofrio's Fountain in the middle of a small square. It may have been inspired by the former Romanesque baptistry of the former cathedral in Bunić Square. The sculptural elements were lost in the earthquake of 1667. Water jets gush out of the mouth of the sixteenmascarons. The Little Onofrio's Fountain stands at the eastern side of the Placa, supplying water to the market place in the Luža Square. The sculptures were made by the Milanese artistPietro di Martino (who also sculpted the ornaments in the Rector's Palace and made a statue – now lost – for the Franciscan church).

St. Saviour Church (left) andFranciscan church and Monastery (right)

The 31-metre-high (102 ft)Dubrovnik Bell Tower, built in 1444, is one of the symbols of the free city state of Ragusa. It was built by the local architects Grubačević, Utišenović and Radončić. It was rebuilt in 1929 as it had lost its stability through an earthquake and was in danger of falling. The brass face of the clock shows the phases of the moon. Two human figures strike the bell every hour. The tower stands next to the House of the Main Guard, also built in Gothic style. It was the residence of the admiral, commander-in-chief of the army. The Baroque portal was built between 1706 and 1708 by the Venetian architectMarino Gropelli (who also built St Blaise's church).

In 1418, the Republic of Ragusa, as Dubrovnik was then named, erected a statue of Roland (Ital. Orlando) as a symbol of loyalty toSigismund of Luxembourg (1368–1437), King of Hungary and Croatia (as of 1387), Prince-Elector of Brandenburg (between 1378 and 1388 and again between 1411 and 1415), German King (as of 1411), King of Bohemia (as of 1419) and Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire (as of 1433), who helped by a successful war alliance against Venice to retain Ragusa's independence. It stands in the middle of Luža Square. Roland statues were typical symbols of city autonomy or independence, often erected under Sigismund in his Electorate of Brandenburg. In 1419 the sculptorBonino of Milano, with the help of local craftsmen, replaced the first Roland with the present Gothic statue. Its forearm was for a long time the unit of measure in Dubrovnik: oneell of Dubrovnik is equal to 51.2 cm (20.2 in).

Walls of Dubrovnik

[edit]
Minčeta Tower
Main article:Walls of Dubrovnik

A feature of Dubrovnik is its walls which run almost 2 kilometres (1.2 miles) around the city. The walls are 4 to 6 metres (13–20 feet) thick on the landward side but are much thinner on the seaward side. The system of turrets and towers was intended to protect the vulnerable city. The walls of Dubrovnik have also been a popular filming location for the fictional city of King's Landing in theHBO television series,Game of Thrones.[98]

The walls have been visited by 1.3 million people in 2018.

Demographics

[edit]
Historical populations
of Dubrovnik
YearPop.±%
188015,666—    
189015,329−2.2%
190017,384+13.4%
191018,396+5.8%
192116,719−9.1%
193120,420+22.1%
194821,778+6.7%
195324,296+11.6%
196127,793+14.4%
197135,628+28.2%
198146,025+29.2%
199151,597+12.1%
200143,770−15.2%
201142,615−2.6%
202141,562−2.5%
Source: Naselja i stanovništvo Republike Hrvatske 1857–2001, DZS, Zagreb, 2005
TheFranjo Tuđman Bridge across theRijeka Dubrovačka near Dubrovnik

The total population of the city is 41,562 (census 2021), in the followingsettlements:[99]

The population was 42,615 in 2011,[99] down from 49,728 in 1991[100]

In the 2011 census, 90.34% of the population identified as Croat, 3.52% as Bosniak, 2.73% as Serb and 0.4% as Albanian.[101]

City of Dubrovnik: Population trends 1857–2021
population
14445
13398
15666
15329
17384
18396
16719
20420
21778
24296
27793
35628
46025
51597
43770
42615
41562
18571869188018901900191019211931194819531961197119811991200120112021
Sources:Croatian Bureau of Statistics publications

Throughout history, there was a significantItalian-speaking community in Dubrovnik. According to the Austrian censuses, there were 331 residents of the central settlement that usedItalian as theirhabitual language[102] (4.6% of the total population) in 1890, and 409 (4.6%) in 1910.[103] The commune as a whole had 356 (3.2%) Italian speakers in 1890, and 486 (3.4%) in 1910.[103] In 2011, only 27 people declared themselves as Italians, corresponding to 0.06% of the total population.[101]

Transport

[edit]
Dubrovnik public bus system
Dubrovnik Cable car
Dubrovnik City Port

Airport

[edit]

Dubrovnik has its owninternational airport, located approximately 20 km (12 mi) southeast of Dubrovnik city centre, nearČilipi. Dubrovnik Airport is thethird busiest airport in Croatia afterZagreb andSplit.[104] In 2024, Dubrovnik Airport achieved a record number of arrivals with nearly 3 million tourists. It's the only airport in Croatia that has direct flights withUnited States, more specifically withNewark Liberty International Airport inNew York City, although seasonal service.[105]

Port

[edit]

Mainport in Dubrovnik is located inGruž and it serves as transport for passenger traffic and tourists. As one of Croatia's most prominent ports, it handles a significant amounts of cruise ships, ferries, private yachts and cargo ships. Dubrovnik Port is connected with others islands and tows includingSplit,Rijeka,Komiža,Korčula,Sobra,Pomena,Lopud andBari inItaly. There is a city harbour in old town of Dubrovnik, which connects Dubrovnik withLokrum island.[106]

Buses

[edit]

Dubrovnik has a public bus system which connects the airport with the Dubrovnik old mainbus station inGruž. In addition, a network of modern, local buses connects all Dubrovnik neighbourhoods running frequently from dawn to midnight including the Municipality of Župa Dubrovnik, the Municipality ofKonavle, the Municipality of Dubrovnik Primorje, the Municipality ofSton and the Municipality of Orebić. However, Dubrovnik, unlike Croatia's other major centres, is not accessible by rail;[107] until 1975 Dubrovnik wasconnected toMostar andSarajevo by anarrow-gauge railway (760 mm)[108][109] built during theAustro-Hungarian rule of Bosnia. In addition to the railway transit, Dubrovnik had atrain system, which was in operation from 1910 to 1970.[110]

Cable car

[edit]

Dubrovnik has a cable car service from Old town to the top ofSrđ mountain. The Dubrovnik Cable Car, known as "žičara" in Croatian, was first constructed in 1969. It was the first cable car in theAdriatic region and initially transported up to 15 people at a time. However, the cable car was severely damaged during theCroatian War of Independence in 1991 and ceased operations. After years of inactivity, the cable car underwent a complete restoration and reopened in 2010, offering modern and improved facilities to visitors.[111]

Highways and roads

[edit]

TheA1 highway, in use betweenZagreb andPloče, is planned to be extended all the way to Dubrovnik. Because the area around the city is disconnected from the rest of Croatian territory, the highway will either cross thePelješac Bridge whose construction was completed in 2022,[citation needed][112] or run throughNeum inBosnia and Herzegovina and continue to Dubrovnik.

Education

[edit]

Dubrovnik has a number of higher educational institutions. These include theUniversity of Dubrovnik, theLibertas University (Dubrovnik International University),Rochester Institute of Technology Croatia (formerAmerican College of Management and Technology), a University Centre for Postgraduate Studies of theUniversity of Zagreb, and an Institute of History of theCroatian Academy of Sciences and Arts.

Sports

[edit]

The city hosted the2025 World Men's Handball Championship at the new arena, along with the countriesDenmark andNorway.

Local football clubNK GOŠK Dubrovnik has been playing in the third tier of the Croatian football pyramid for years.

Local waterpolo clubVK Jug is among the most successful in Croatian history, with many of its players being members of theCroatia national water polo team.

The local chapter of theHPS isHPD "Orjen", which had 96 members in 1936 under the Đuro Orlić presidency. At the time, it also had aski section, acaving section and aphotography section.[113] Membership fell to 87 in 1937.[114]: 241, 244  Membership rose to 90 in 1938.[115]: 241 

Twin towns and sister cities

[edit]
See also:List of twin towns and sister cities in Croatia

Dubrovnik istwinned with:[116]

In popular culture

[edit]
Location of Kings Landing fromGame of Thrones

Roger Corman's 1964 war thrillerThe Secret Invasion is set in Dubrovnik and was filmed on location there.[117] Although the story is fiction the fighting between Italian and German troops depicted at the end is based on fact.[60]

TheHBO seriesGame of Thrones used Dubrovnik as afilming location, representing the cities ofKing's Landing andQarth.[118]

Parts ofStar Wars: The Last Jedi were filmed in Dubrovnik in March 2016, in which Dubrovnik was used as the setting for the casino city ofCanto Bight.[119][120]

Dubrovnik was one of the European sites used in the Bollywood movieFan (2016), starringShah Rukh Khan.[121]

In early 2017,Robin Hood was filmed on locations in Dubrovnik.[122]

In Kander and Ebb's song "Ring Them Bells", the protagonist, Shirley Devore, goes to Dubrovnik to look for a husband and meets her neighbor from New York.[123]

The text-based video gameQuarantine Circular[124] is set aboard a ship off the coast of Dubrovnik, and a few references to the city are made throughout the course of the game.

TheDubrovniks were an Australian Independent rock band formed in 1987. Often regarded as a 'Supergroup' due to the band members having played in various established bands such asHoodoo Gurus,Beasts of Bourbon, andThe Scientists. The band chose their name due to two members of the bandRoddy Radalj (guitar vocals) and Boris Sujdovik (bass) being born in Dubrovnik.[125]

Gallery

[edit]
Panoramic view of Dubrovnik
Panorama of Dubrovnik during sunrise and island ofLokrum
Panoramic view of Dubrovnik fromSrđ mountain

Notable people

[edit]

Acknowledgements

[edit]

Dubrovnik was included in theTravel + Leisure25 Most Beautiful Cities in the World list, ranked 18th.[127]

Honorary citizens

[edit]

Named by Dubrovnik City Council:[128]

See also

[edit]

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^Croatian:[dǔbroːʋniːk],[5]UK:/d(j)ʊˈbrɒvnɪk/dyuu-BROV-nik,US:/dˈ-/doo-;[6]
  2. ^Italian:[raˈɡuːza]

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