| Double bowline | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Names | Double bowline, Round Turn Bowline, Double-Knotted Bowline |
| Category | Loop |
| Efficiency | 70-75% |
| Related | Bowline,Water bowline,Double sheet bend,Bowline on a bight |
| Typical use | climbing |
| ABoK | #1013 |
Adouble bowline (orround turn bowline) is a type ofloopknot. Instead of the single turn of the regularbowline, the double bowline uses around turn. This forms a more secure loop than a standard bowline.[1]
Though called "double bowline" byClifford Ashley, this name is also reasonably descriptive of a different knot: thebowline on a bight. Because of this ambiguitysome sources differentiate by using one of the alternate names above. And at least one other source uses the name "double bowline" for a mid-line loop knot made by tying a basic bowline with abight of rope instead of the end.[2]
First, learn to tie the bowline by laying the working end on the standing part and twisting to form a loop (the "hole" that the rabbit comes out of). Wrap the loop once more around the working end. Then pass the working end behind the standing part and back down through the double loop.
The double bowline is one of the typical tie-in knots used inclimbing, along with thefigure eight follow through[3][4] and theYosemite bowline.[5] The advantage of the double bowline over the figure 8 is that it is easier to untie after being weighted in a fall,[3][4] and so is used bysport climbers who take multiple lead falls and then have trouble untying their figure eights.[3][4] The disadvantages of the double bowline are that it is less secure than a figure eight knot, takes longer to tie, and is not as easy to check.[3][4] Unlike the figure eight, there are many variations of the bowline, with ambiguous names, and some are not safe for climbing.[6][7][8][9]
TheBowline on a bight, when re-threaded instead of being tied on a bight, can also be used for tying into a climbing harness and provides more strength and security than the double bowline.
double bowline is more complicated than the Figure Eight and partner checks are harder to verify. ... single bowline is not safe while the double bowline is difficult to tie but is easier to undo after taking strain
there are many versions of the bowline, some of which are unsafe for climbing ... Bowline on a Bight, Retraced Through Harness w/ Yosemite Finish ... is the safest option
Because this knot unties so easily, sometimes even by simply rubbing against your body
A knot that can be shaken loose to spill of its own accord, such as the bowline ... is an insecure knot.
