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Thedashiki (/dəˈʃiːki,dɑː-/,də-SHEE-kee, dah-)[1][2] is a colorful garment that covers the top half of the body, worn mostly inWest Africa.[3] It hasformal and informal versions and varies from simple draped clothing to fully tailored suits. A common form is a loose-fitting pullover garment, with an ornate V-shaped collar, and tailored and embroidered neck and sleeve lines. It is frequently worn with a brimlesskufi cap (which is worn inIslamic communities in Africa and the African diaspora) and pants. It has been popularized and claimed by communities in theAfrican diaspora, especiallyAfrican Americans.
The now trademark dashiki design was born from awax print pattern by Dutch designer Toon van de Mannaker for Netherlands-basedVlisco.[3][4] Van de Mannaker's print pattern was inspired by thesilk embroidered tunics worn by Christian Ethiopian noblewomen in the 19th century.[3][5] The pattern became known as theAngelina pattern in the West African market after the release of Ghanaianhighlife hit song "Angelina" by The Sweet Talks.[6] In Congo it is known asMiriam Makeba orYa Mado:Miriam Makeba was South African musician who often wore wax prints; "ya mado!" is a memorable lyric fromFabregas's song "Mascara", which features dancers wearing dashikis in its music video.[6]
The word "dashiki" comes fromdàńṣíkí,[7] aYoruba loanword from theHausadan ciki, literally meaning'shirt' or'inner garment' (as compared to the outer garment,babariga).[8]
The informal version of the dashiki is a traditional print or embroidered dashiki. Three formal versions exist. The first type consists of a dashiki,sokoto (drawstring pants), and a matchingkufi. This style is called adashiki suit ordashiki trouser set and it is the attire worn by most grooms during wedding ceremonies. The second version consists of an ankle-length shirt, matching kufi, andsokoto and is called aSenegalese kaftan. The third type consists of a dashiki and matching trousers. A flowing gown is worn over these. This type is called agrand boubou or anagbada.
There are several different styles of dashiki suits available from clothing stores. The type of shirt included in the set determines the name. Thetraditional dashiki suit includes a thigh-length shirt. The short sleeve, traditional style is preferred by purists. Along dashiki suit includes a shirt that is knee-length or longer. However, if the shirt reaches the ankles, it is aSenegalese kaftan. Finally, thelace dashiki suit includes a shirt made of lace. A hybrid of the dashiki and kaftan worn by females is a traditional male dashiki with a western skirt.
Grey is the traditional color for some West African weddings.[9] Some grooms wear white dashiki suits during wedding ceremonies. Some couples wear non-traditional colors. The most common non-traditional colors are purple and blue.
Black and red are the traditional colors ofmourning.[11]
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The dashiki found a market in America during theCivil Rights andBlack Power movements. The termdashiki began appearing in print at least as early as 1967. Reporting on the1967 Newark riots in theAmsterdam News on July 22, 1967, George Barner refers to a new African garment called a "danshiki". An article by Faith Berry inThe New York Times Magazine includes it on July 7, 1968.Dashiki formally appeared in theWebster's New World Dictionary, 1st College Edition of 1970/72. It cites J. Benning with the first written usage of the word in 1967. J. Benning, M. Clarke, H. Davis and W. Smith were founders of New Breed ofHarlem inManhattan,New York City, the first manufacturer of the garment in the United States.
The dashiki was featured in the moviesUptight (1968),Putney Swope (1969), and the weekly television seriesSoul Train (1971). TheSanford and Son episode "Lamont Goes African" features Sanford's son Lamont wearing a dashiki as part of his attempt to return to his African roots.Jim Brown,Wilt Chamberlain,Sammy Davis Jr., andBill Russell were among the well-knownAfrican-American athletes and entertainers who wore the dashiki on talk shows.Hippies also adopted dashikis into their wardrobe as a means to expresscounterculture values.[12] FormerDistrict of Columbia mayor and council memberMarion Barry was known for wearing a dashiki leading up to elections. Dashikis have been seen on many musicians, rappers and singers, mostlyAfrican Americans, includingBeyoncé,Rihanna,Chris Brown,Wiz Khalifa,ScHoolboy Q,Q-Tip, and many others.[citation needed]
Fred Hampton of theBlack Panther Party made note of black business owners wearing dashikis in his 1969 speech "Power Anywhere Where There's People": "[A]nybody who comes into the community to make profit off the people by exploiting them can be defined as a capitalist. And we don't care how many programs they have, how long a dashiki they have. Because political power does not flow from the sleeve of a dashiki;political power flows from the barrel of a gun."[13]
In February 2023, freshman lawmakerJustin J. Pearson was inaugurated to theTennessee House of Representatives while wearing a dashiki, prompting an immediate backlash from conservative lawmakers. The Tennessee House GOP tweeted that Pearson "should explore a different career opportunity" and referenced undefined attire rules for the house.[14]
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