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Thecuisine of Basilicata, orLucanian cuisine, is the cuisine of theBasilicata region of Italy. It is mainly based on the use ofpork andsheep meat,legumes,cereals andvegetables, with the addition of aromas such ashot peppers, powdered rawpeppers andhorseradish. The local gastronomy is, for historical-cultural reasons, typically peasant, based on simple recipes and on the culture of reuse, in particular of meat andbread.[1]
Some dishes have undergone variations and enrichments in modern times, losing the connotations of "poor" cooking which characterized them in the past. The most ancient manuscript available about Lucanian cooking dates back to 1524, by Antonio Camuria fromLagonegro, cook at the service of theCarafa family.[2][3]
The cuisine ofBasilicata is mostly based on inexpensive ingredients and deeply anchored in rural traditions.
Pork is an integral part of the regional cuisine, often made into sausages or roasted on a spit. Famous dry sausages from the region arelucanica andsoppressata. Wild boar, mutton, and lamb are also popular. Pasta sauces are generally based on meats or vegetables.Horseradish is often used as a spice and condiment, known in the region as "poor man's truffle".[4] The region produces cheeses such aspecorino di Filiano,canestrato di Moliterno,pallone di Gravina, andpadraccio and olive oils such as the Vulture.[5] Thepeperone crusco (lit. 'crusco pepper') is a staple of the local cuisine, defined as the "red gold of Basilicata".[6] It is consumed as a snack or as a main ingredient for several regional recipes.[7]
Among the traditional dishes arepasta con i peperoni cruschi, pasta served with dried crunchy pepper andbreadcrumbs;[8]lagane e ceci, also known aspiatto del brigante (lit. 'brigand's dish'), pasta prepared with chickpeas and peeled tomatoes;[9]tumact me tulez,tagliatelle-dish ofArbëreshe culture;rafanata, a type of omelet with horseradish;ciaudedda, a vegetable stew with artichokes,potatoes,broad beans, andpancetta;[10] and thebaccalà alla lucana, one of the few recipes made with fish. Desserts includetaralli dolci, made with sugar glaze and scented withanise andcalzoncelli, fried pastries filled with a cream ofchestnuts andchocolate.
The most famous wine of the region is theAglianico del Vulture; others include Matera, Terre dell'Alta Val d'Agri, and Grottino di Roccanova.[11]
Basilicata is also known for itsmineral waters which are sold widely in Italy. The springs are mostly located in the volcanic basin of theVulture area.[12]
The region is characterized by many small towns,villages and rural centers often separated by geographical barriers, therefore determining the necessity of cooking and eating what was produced on the spot, according to techniques developed on the spot. The most common recipes, passing from an area to another, from a village to another take on different connotations, and are made with different raw materials.
Pork has been a fundamental ingredient of Lucanian cooking sinceancient Roman times. According toMarcus Terentius Varro, in ancientLucania (which included most of today's Basilicata) originated the sausage, at the time calledlucanica, which spread, later, in the whole national territory and from which originated theluganega, typical sausage ofnorthern Italy.
Little used fish in the hinterland and only widespread in the limitedTyrrhenian and Ionic coasts.[13] In the past,salt cod was the most common variety in inland areas because of its long shelf life.
Among the most used legumes and cereals there arebeans,chickpeas,chickling peas,broad beans,barley andspelt, which are widely used in different recipes such ascrapiata andciaudedda; and used for the production ofmischiglio, a mixture of flours dating back to the sixteenth century, used for the preparation of dishes served on the tables of counts, barons, marquises and landowners of Basilicata.[14]
Fruit has always represented an essential component.Figs, in particular, were considered a versatile food: consumed both in holidays and in the most intense working periods such as harvesting.[15]Grapes, besides the production ofwines, have a culinary use in the preparation of first courses (lagana chiapputa) and desserts such aspan minisc. Dried fruits, such aschestnuts, are used in many ways in first and second courses, as well as in sweets such ascalzoncelli.
Peperone crusco, a variety of driedbell pepper, is a key element of the regional cooking, so much to be labeled as "the red gold of Basilicata".[16] It is consumed both as a snack and in the preparation of first courses, second courses and appetisers, such aspasta con i peperoni cruschi,baccalà allaLucana (salt cod) andacquasale. A very used aromatic element ishorseradish, defined by people from Basilicata as "poor man's truffle", historically common on the tables of labourers because of its accessible costs and its wide spreading in the territory.[17] Horseradish is a fundamental ingredient of condiments such asndruppeche, main courses such asrafanata or by mixing it with bread andpotatoes to preparemeatballs, as well as to flavor meat.
A condiment frequently found in Lucanian dishes isbreadcrumbs which was considered the "poor man's cheese", representing an alternative to more expensive dairy products.[18]
Ancient is the art ofcalzone, known in Basilicata with different names such aspastizz orfalagone, datable at least between the eighteenth and nineteenth century.[19]
Basilicata is considered the region with the highest consumption ofpasta. The figures reach 42 kg (93 lb) per capita per year, compared to the national average of 24 kg (53 lb).[20] Typical pasta formats of the region are strascinati,cavatelli (also known as rascatielli), ferretti (also known as ferricelli,fusilli or frizzuli),orecchiette, maccaronara,lagane (not to be confused withlagane, better known as "lasagne"), an ancient pasta format dating back to Roman times, similar totagliatelle but slightly shorter and thicker, and manate, a long pasta rather thick and irregularly shaped.[21]
Some notable pasta dishes are:
| Name | Image | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Calzoni di pezzente e fagioli | pasta stuffed with pezzente salami and cooked ham, seasoned with beans,pecorino cheese and parsley.[22] | |
| Cavatelli o strascinati con cime di zucca | pasta served with pumpkin tops, crusco peppers and tomatoes.[23] | |
| Cavatelli con cime di rapa or senàpe selvatiche | pasta seasoned with vegetables andgarlic. A variant foresees the addition oftomato and pecorino cheese.[23] | |
| Cauzunciedd | ravioli filled withricotta cheese,eggs andmint, seasoned with tomato sauce.[24] | |
| Ferrett' cu pezzent e rafano | pasta seasoned with a sauce ofsalami pezzente and horseradish, with the addition ofcacioricotta cheese or grated pecorino cheese.[25] | |
| Lagane e ceci |  | pasta with chickpeas, garlic orleek andlaurel. They are also called "piatto del brigante" (dish of thebrigand) because it is said that they were very appreciated by the Lucanian brigands of the nineteenth century who were, therefore, called "scolalagane".[23] |
| Lagana chiapputa | lagh' na chiappout in dialect. Typical of the municipalities of Alto Bradano. Pasta seasoned withcooked wine,walnuts,almonds,pine nuts andraisins.[26] | |
| Orecchiette alla materana | baked pasta with tomato,minced lamb,mozzarella and pecorino cheese.[27] | |
| Pasta con fagiolini e cacioricotta | typical recipe from Bernalda, with green beans from the eye and tomato puree.[28] | |
| Pasta con peperoni cruschi |  | first course with cruschi peppers, bread crumbs and cacioricotta cheese. Types of pasta used are strascinati,[29] frizzuli[30] and cavatelli.[31] |
| Pasta con ragù alla potentina |  | generallystrozzapreti or strascinati served withl'ndruppeche, ragout prepared with pork and beef meat and seasoned with grated horseradish.[32] |
| Pasta mollicata |  | known in dialect as pastaammuddicata orpasta ca muddica, is present in many culinary traditions ofSouthern Italy. In Basilicata it is prepared withbreadcrumbs and with the addition of other seasonings such as chopped tomatoes or meat sauce, powdered crusco bell pepper oracciughe sotto sale.[33] |
| Strascinati con la menta | typical pasta dish ofTito with chopped mint, lard, crusco bell pepper and horseradish.[34] | |
| Timballo di riso al forno | topped withprovola cheese, sausage, chicken livers, bread crumbs, pecorino cheese and tomato sauce.[35] | |
| Tumact me tulez |  | dish of thearbëreshë lucana tradition typical ofBarile; tagliatelle with tomatoes and anchovies, seasoned with breadcrumbs and nut grains.[36] |
Ingredients which stand out in Lucanian second courses are pork and sheep meat, with some exceptions of chicken andfish. Among these are to be mentioned:
| Name | Image | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Agnello alla contadina | lamb cut into pieces with potatoes cooked in the oven.[37] | |
| Anguilla di Pantano | eel served with tomatoes and chili pepper, flavored withbay leaf and mint.[38] | |
| Baccalà alla potentina | also called baccalà a ciauredda. Dish based on fish with different variations. Generally seasoned with tomato puree, onion, black olives and raisins.[39] | |
| Baccalà alla lucana or Baccalà all'aviglianese |  | seasoned with cruschi peppers.[23] |
| Brodetto | 'Vredett in dialect. Lamb meat with wildfennel, eggs, pecorino cheese and tomato (optional).[23] | |
| Cappucci e cicorie | second course that combines vegetables with pork rind andpig's foot.[40] | |
| Cutturidd | also known asPastorale orPignata, sheep meat stew with different ingredients and variations such as tomatoes, potatoes,lampascioni andcardoncelli.[41] | |
| Frascatula | cornmealpolenta with potato andlard prepared in different versions, usually with pork sauce or cooked wine.[42] | |
| Gnummeriedde |  | widespread in all of central-southern Italy. Also known with other names such asGnommariell orMigliatiedde, they are entrails of lamb orkid twisted and seasoned with different aromas according to the area.[43] |
| Grattonato or Trippa risottata | typical of thePollino area, made with offal of sheep (bovine in the most recent version), eggs, pecorino cheese and powdered bell pepper.[44] | |
| Maiale con cipolle | pork with onions and drywhite wine.[45] | |
| Pollo alla potentina | prepared with tomato, onion, potatoes, lard and fresh chilli pepper.[46] | |
| Pollo ripieno al ragù | chickengiblets stuffed with breadcrumbs and sausage, seasoned with pecorino cheese andtomato puree.[23] | |
| Rafanata |  | high baked omelette flavored with horseradish and pecorino cheese, boiled potatoes and/or sausages can be added.[47] |
| Sarde con origano e pane | sardines seasoned with grated bread crumbs, pecorino cheese,oregano,parsley andgarlic.[48] | |
| Spigola alla malvasia lucana | fish dish withmalvasia, seasoned with grapes,orange andlemonpeel,thyme,rosemary and garlic.[49] | |
| Zucca lunga sposata | in dialectCocuzza logna maritata.Pumpkin seasoned with a sauce of tomatoes,onions andcelery.[50] |
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Among the most famous bakery products offered by the region there isMatera bread, certifiedI.G.P. Other types of bread to be mentioned areTrecchina bread andSan Severino Lucano potato bread, both recognized astraditional food products.[65]
Among thefocaccias there are thestrazzata, a variety with pepper; thecarchiola, an unleavened corn focaccia cooked in a fireplace, both typical ofAvigliano; focaccia with powdered crusco bell pepper and focaccia with honey. Other bakery products arefriselle andtaralli, as well as those ofarbëreshë origin such as cugliaccio (kulac), a sweet linked to weddings and Easter festivities; and petulla Shën Paljit, a thincrepe with a savory taste stuffed with cheese and cold cuts.
Like other Italian regions, Basilicata also has its own version ofEaster bread, which has many variations and different names such as picciddat[66] andpiccilatiedd.[67] Other products of the Easter period are ficazzola (f'cazzol), panierino (u' panaridd) and bambolina (a' pipua), typical ofOliveto Lucano.[68]
In the cuisine of Basilicata, an important and essential element is the oil, present in almost all regional dishes. In fact, in Basilicata, the olive tree covers over 85% of the cultivated area.[69] The areas with higher production areVulture-Melfese, low Val d'Agri and lowCollina materana.[69]
The most common quality of olives in this region is the Ogliarola del Vulture (also called Ogliarola di Melfi or Rapollese)[70] andMajatica di Ferrandina. The oil produced is mainly extra-virgin olive oil, but virgin olive oil is also produced. The predominant color of the oil is golden yellow with green reflections.
Typical porkcold cuts are:
Picerno is the undisputed pole in this sector, producing about 50% of Lucanian cold cuts. Typical regional cold cuts are thelucanica di Picerno, the chain sausage ofCancellara and thenuglia di Laurenzana. InTricarico are typical products derived from black pig. Pork is also used to produce lard andsanguinaccio dolce.Wild boar is also used for the production of sausages and of borzillo (U' burzill), a spreadable sausage with sweet bell pepper paste, typical ofPietragalla.[71]
Traditional cheeses from Basilicata are:
Among the most famous types arepecorino di Filiano,canestrato di Moliterno,padraccio,toma andtreccia dura (ortreccione), the latter defined as "cheese of Basilicata" since it belongs to the cheese-making tradition of Basilicata, as stated in "La statistica del Regno di Napoli" (lit. 'Statistics of the Kingdom of Naples') of 1811.[72]
Typical fruits of the region are Pear Lady of Sinni Valley, Pink Fig ofPisticci, strawberries "Sabrosa" and "Candonga", and orange Staccia of Metapontino. Common types of dried fruits are almonds, pistachios (the ones fromStigliano are well known)[73] and chestnuts, in particular those of Vulture such as the marroncino ofMelfi which are a central ingredient of first and second courses, desserts,liqueurs[74] and sought after by the processing industries for the preparation ofmarron glacé.
Among fruit and vegetables are to be mentioned thePeperone di Senise, theMelanzana Rossa di Rotonda and thePomodoro Ciettaicale di Tolve. Legumes are widely used, such as beans (in particular theSarconi bean, but also the ones fromRotonda,Muro Lucano andRivello), chickpeas fromLatronico, and lentils fromPotenza.
Theconfectionery tradition is, for the most part, simple and not very elaborated, based on easily available ingredients that the land offered. The products are, mainly, dry and of small dimensions, which allowed an easy transport and an easy consumption to the laborers during the working activities. Among typical sweets there are:
Basilicata is one of the most ancient regions of Italy having a viticultural vocation; at the end of the XX century, 154 different cultivar denominations were registered in the municipalities of Basilicata.[92] Vines cultivated are mainly black berried. Among the most relevant wines there areAglianico del Vulture,Grottino di Roccanova,Matera andTerre dell'Alta Val d'Agri. White wines are also produced, even though to a lesser extent, from greco and Malvasia, in particular in Vulture and Metapontino.[93]
Typical spirits areAmaro Lucano fromPisticci, elderberry liqueur fromChiaromonte and Sempre Freddo fromAvigliano, made of Aglianico and black cherry; other types produced arenocino,fragolino,limoncello cream, citron and orange liqueurs. Among beverages there isBirra Morena, produced inBalvano, and thesoft drink Avena from Potenza.
Mineral waters in Basilicata represent the largest reservoir in Italy, amounting to more than 30% of the nationalwater resources.[94] The sources of Vulture, the area of greatest production, have volcanic materials that provide the spring waters with a natural effervescence, a rare characteristic in the panorama ofmineral waters.[95] Among mineral waters to be mentioned are those produced byFonti del Vulture andGaudianello, both operating atMonticchio Bagni, a hamlet ofRionero in Vulture.
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