Crêpe, also spelledcrepe orcrape (from theFrenchcrêpe),[1] is asilk,wool, orsynthetic fiberfabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically withmourning.[2] Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".[3]
It is woven of hard-spun yarn, originally silk "in the gum" (silk from which thesericin had not been removed). There traditionally have been two distinct varieties of the crêpe: soft, Canton or Oriental crêpe, and hard or crisped crêpe.[4]
An 1889 narrow-striped silkgrenadine overlaid with wider crêpe stripes. An earlier 1830s cotton/worsted fabric, spelledbalzarine, was probably not crêpe.[8]
Bark (or tree-bark) crêpe
A broad term describing rough crêpes with abark texture.[9][10]
A soft silk crêpe with a pebbly surface originally associated withCanton in China, with bias ribs. Made in Britain, but exported to China, hence its name.[13]
Caustic soda crêpe
Cotton treated with chemicals to create a crêpe-like texture, often in patterns.[14]
Japanese raw silk crêpe widely used to makekimono.[16][17] When woven with a dot it ismon-chirimen.[18]
Courtauld crape
1890s mourning crape made byCourtaulds. An 1894 variation, called 'Courtauld's new silk crêpe', was exceptionally thin and soft.[7] Courtaulds monopolised the export market for English crapes and crêpes, meaning that the textiles known as "crape anglaise" were almost always manufactured by Courtaulds up until 1940.[3]
Crêpe Algerian
A trade name for a printedpongee with a rough crêpe texture.[19]
Crêpe anglaise
A French term for English mourning crapes in black and white.[7] The only true 'crape anglais' was considered that made by Courtaulds (see Courtauld crape) which was last made in 1940.[3]
Crêpe Beatrice
Trade name for crêpe with a light warp stripe.[19]
Crêpe berber
Trade name for a piece-dyed crepe-textured pongee.[20]
Trade name. Lightweight worsted crêpe with heavier, looser filling.[20]
Crêpe mosseux
A type of opaquevoile which resists shrinkage.[20]
Crêpe myosotis
A later mourning crêpe made in the 1930s, in crimped silk with a soft finish.[7] Courtaulds launched this textile in the early 1930s as an alternative to the increasingly unpopular traditional stiff mourning crapes.[3]
Silk with crêpe dots. The name also describes a type offringe.[20]
Crepoline
A class of transparent fabrics with a warp-wise crêpe effect.[20]
Crepon
A heavier crêpe with an exaggerated warp-directional texture produced by several weaving techniques.[20] A soft silky version was introduced in 1866, and the second, much heavier version in 1882. In the 1890s crepon also described a woollen fabric that puffed between stripes or squares, including crepon milleraye (striped) and crepon Persian (with 'Oriental patterns').[7]
Also called mock crepe or (inaccurately) French crepe. A smooth, flat plain-weave fabric, typically a silk blend, with hard-twisted yarns and ordinary yarn warp. Also used to describe a similar fabric made without crepe-twist yarns.[27]
French crêpe
1. An inaccurately-applied name for flat crêpe.
2. Plain-weave light silk or rayon cloths similar to flat crêpe.
3. A lingerie weight fabric with ordinary yarn warp and a twisted filling yarn that is less twisted than typical crepe twist.[28]
Pekin (shiny and matte striped textile) woven with a crêpe weft.[34]
Plissé
Mainly cotton fabric with a crêpe effect created by chemically treating the fabric to pucker and crinkle, typically in stripes. Plissé satin is made using crêpe yarns.[35]
Ikegami, Eiko (2005).Bonds of civility : aesthetic networks and political origins of Japanese culture (Reprinted ed.). Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.ISBN9780521601153.
Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. (2011).The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc.ISBN9780810877856.
Panda, H. (2010).The complete book on textile processing and silk reeling technology (First ed.). Delhi: Asia Pacific Business Press, Inc.ISBN9788178331355.
_LACMA_41.11.8.jpg)
.jpg)
_of_rayon.jpg)
.jpg)
One or more of the preceding sentences incorporates text from a publication now in thepublic domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Crape".Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 7 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 379.