The county covers an area of 1,327 km2 (512 sq mi), making it the smallest of Northern Ireland's six counties by size and thesixth-smallest county on the island of Ireland. With a population of 194,394 as of the2021 census,[7] it is the fourth-most populous county in both Northern Ireland and Ulster. It is the10th most populous of Ireland's 32 traditional counties, as well as the fifth-most densely populated. In addition to the city of Armagh and the western portion of the city ofNewry, notable towns in the county includeLurgan,Portadown andCraigavon.
The nameArmagh derives from the IrishArd Macha, meaningMacha's height/Macha's high place. Macha is a mythological figure who is mentioned inThe Book of the Taking of Ireland. Macha is also said to have been responsible for the construction of the hill site ofEmain Macha (now Navan Fort nearArmagh City) to serve as the capital of theUlaid kings (who give their name toUlster) and is believed to be the high place from which the county takes its name.
From its highest point atSlieve Gullion, in the south of the county, Armagh's land falls away from its rugged south with Carrigatuke, Lislea and Camlough mountains, to rollingdrumlin country in the middle and west of the county. In the north it gives way to flatlands where rolling flats and small hills reach sea level atLough Neagh.
An orchard near Drummannon
County Armagh's boundary withLouth is marked by the ruggedRing of Gullion rising in the south of the county, whilst much of its boundary with countiesMonaghan andDown goes unnoticed with seamless continuance of drumlins and small lakes. TheRiver Blackwater marks the border withCounty Tyrone, and Lough Neagh otherwise marks the county's northern boundary.
Numerous uninhabited islands are located in the county's section of Lough Neagh: Coney Island Flat, Croaghan Flat, Padian, Phil Roe's Flat, and the Shallow Flat.
Despite lying in the east of Ireland, Armagh enjoys anoceanic climate strongly influenced by the Gulf Stream: featuring damp mild winters, and temperate, wet summers. Overall temperatures rarely drop below freezing during daylight hours, though frost is not infrequent in the months November to February. Snow rarely lies for longer than a few hours even in the elevated south-east of the county. Summers are mild and wet and, although with sunshine often interspersed with showers, daylight lasts for almost 18 hours during high-summer.
On 22 July 2021 the record for highest outside air temperature ever measured in Northern Ireland was set in Armagh City when a reading of 31.4 °C was registered atArmagh Observatory's weather station.[8]
Ancient Armagh was the territory of theUlaid (also known as Voluntii, Ultonians, Ulidians, Ulstermen) before the fourth century AD. It was ruled by theRed Branch, whose capital wasEmain Macha (or Navan Fort) near Armagh. The site, and subsequently the city, were named after thegoddessMacha. The Red Branch play an important role in theUlster Cycle, as well as theCattle Raid of Cooley. However, they were eventually driven out of the area by the Three Collas, who invaded in the 4th century and held power until the 12th. The Clan Colla ruled the area known as Airghialla or Oriel for these 800 years.
The chiefIrish clans of the county were descendants of the Collas, the O'Hanlons andMac Cana, and theUí Néill, the O'Neills of Fews. Armagh was divided into several baronies: Armagh was held by the O'Rogans, Lower Fews was held by O'Neill of the Fews, and Upper Fews were under governance of the O'Larkins, who were later displaced by the MacCanns. Oneilland East was the territory of the O'Garveys, who were also displaced by the MacCanns. Oneilland West, like Oneilland East, was once O'Neill territory, until it was then held by the MacCanns, who were Lords of Clanbrassil. Upper and Lower Orior were O'Hanlon territory. Tiranny was ruled by Ronaghan. Miscellaneous tracts of land were ruled by O'Kelaghan. The area around the base ofSlieve Gullion near Newry also became home to a large number of the Clan McGuinness as they were dispossessed of hereditary lands held in theCounty Down.
St. Patrick is considered the first bishop of the Diocese of Armagh. The 9th-century Irishilluminated manuscriptBook of Armagh (also known as theCannon of Patrick) contains accounts of Patricks' life, his Confessio and a complete New Testament.[16] The book is now held at the library ofTrinity College Dublin.
County Armagh is presently one of fourcounties of Northern Ireland to have a majority of the population from aCatholic background, according to the2011 census.
The southern part of the county has been a stronghold of support for theProvisional IRA, earning it the nickname "Bandit Country".[18] South Armagh is predominantlynationalist, with much of the population being opposed to any form of British presence, especially that of amilitary nature. The most prominent opposition to British rule was theProvisional IRA South Armagh Brigade.[19]
On 10 March 2009, theContinuity Irish Republican Army (CIRA), a republican paramilitary group that emerged from a split in the Provisional IRA, claimed responsibility for the fatal shooting of aPSNI officer inCraigavon, County Armagh—the first police fatality in Northern Ireland since 1998. The officer was fatally shot by a sniper as he and a colleague investigated "suspicious activity" at a house nearby when a window was smashed by youths causing the occupant to phone the police. The PSNI officers responded to the emergency call, giving a CIRA sniper the chance to shoot and kill officer Stephen Carroll.[20][21]
The -XZ suffix is currently used onvehicle registration plates for vehicles registered in County Armagh. Other suffixes have been -IB and -LZ. These marks are followed by up to four numbers, e.g., JLZ 6789
As of the 2021 Census, County Armagh recorded a population of 194,394.[7] It is one of four counties in Northern Ireland with a Catholic majority, with 58% of the population coming from a Catholic community background. Around 10% of the population was born outside the United Kingdom and Ireland, mainly immigrants from the European Union and concentrated in the Craigavon urban area (Lurgan,Portadown andCraigavon).
County Armagh is traversed by two major highways – the M1 linking Belfast toDungannon crosses the north of the county whilst the A1/N1 fromBelfast toDublin runs in the far south east. Other major roads in the county include theA3 andA29.
Ulsterbus provides the most extensive public transport system within the county, including frequent bus transfers daily from most towns to Belfast.Northern Ireland Railways/Iarnród Éireann'sEnterprise service provides connections to Dublin in little over an hour and Belfast in little over forty minutes, several times daily.
Andrew Nesbitt (born 1960), raised in Aughnagurgan, County Armagh, professional rally driver and winner of the 2000 and 2002 Irish Tarmac Rally Championship
Armagh Public Library on Abbey Street in Armagh City, especially rich in 17th and 18th century English books, including DeanJonathan Swift's own copy of the first edition of hisGulliver's Travels with his manuscript corrections
Navan Fort, now a tree ring mound which once housed the rulers of Ulster with a modern interactive visitor centre
Saint Patrick's Roman Catholic Cathedral, commenced in 1838, seat of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Armagh, Primate of All Ireland, stands on a hill and dominates the local countryside
Gosford Castle, mock medieval 19th-century castle with substantial grounds
^Northern Ireland General Register Office (1975). "Table 1: Area, Buildings for Habitation and Population, 1971".Census of Population 1971; Summary Tables(PDF). Belfast: HMSO. p. 1.Archived(PDF) from the original on 23 July 2019. Retrieved28 August 2019.
^Lee, JJ (1981). "On the accuracy of the Pre-famine Irish censuses". In Goldstrom, J. M.; Clarkson, L. A. (eds.).Irish Population, Economy, and Society: Essays in Honour of the Late K. H. Connell. Oxford, England: Clarendon Press.
^Norwitz, Jeffrey, ed. (2009).Pirates, Terrorists, and Warlords: The History, Influence, and Future of Armed Groups Around the World. Skyhorse Publishing. p. 107.ISBN978-1-626-36987-0.