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Corsican wine

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Regional French wine
Wine-growing areas on Corsica and the location of the various appellations.

Corsica wine iswine made on theMediterranean island ofCorsica. Located 90 km west ofItaly, 170 km southeast ofFrance and 11 km north of the island ofSardinia, the island is aterritorial collectivity of France, but many of the region'swinemaking traditions and itsgrape varieties areItalian in origin. The region'sviticultural history can be traced to the island's settlement byPhoceans traders in 570 BC in what is now thecommune ofAléria. In the 18th century, the island came under the control of France. Following theindependence of Algeria from French rule, many AlgerianPieds-Noirs immigrated to Corsica and began planting vineyards. Between 1960 and 1976 the vineyard area in Corsica increased fourfold. In 1968,Patrimonio was established as Corsica's firstAppellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC). Today, Corsica has nine AOC regions including the island-wide designation Vin de Corse AOC. The majority of the wine exported from Corsica falls under theVin de pays designationVin de Pays de l'Île de Beauté (Country wine from the Island of Beauty). The three leading grape varieties of the region are Nielluccio (Sangiovese), known as the spice wine of France,Sciacarello andVermentino.[1]

History

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The island of Corsica was settled by Phoceans traders shortly after their founding ofMassalia on the southeastern coast of France.[2] The Phoceans were active wine growers, cultivatingindigenous vines andcuttings brought from abroad.[1] During the late 7th and early 8th century AD, the island came underIslamic rule. Wine production was severely limited due to theIslamic prohibition ofalcohol.[3] In the earlyMiddle Ages, Corsica first came under the rule of the city ofPisa in theTuscany region, then in the 13th century under that of theRepublic of Genoa.[4] During this time someampelographers believe that a clone of theSangiovese grape was introduced to the island which became Nielluccio.[5]

The future French emperor Napoleon Bonaparte was born to a Corsican winemaking family in Ajaccio.

Over the next 500 years, the Genoese established strict laws governing the harvest and winemaking practices of the island. They also banned all exports of Corsican wines to any port outside of Genoa.[1] The most sought-after wines from Corsica were described as being made in the "Greek style" from theCap Corse region. In 1769, a year after the Genoese ceded control of the island to the French, the Scottish writerJames Boswell praised the diversity and quality of Corsican wines, comparing them favorably to the wines ofMalaga andFrontignan.[4] That same year, the future French emperorNapoleon Bonaparte was born in the Corsican city ofAjaccio to a wine-producing family. UnderNapoleon's rule, Corsica was allowed to export wine andtobaccoduty-free across theFrench Empire.[1]

In the 19th century, the Corsican government launched several efforts to improve the nation's economy by promoting Corsica's wine industry. These efforts included the widespread planting of the indigenous Sciacarello grape and the construction of a large cellar near the city ofVizzavona, which was located on the highest point on the railroad line that linked the east coast city ofBastia with the capital city of Ajaccio. Thephylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century dealt a crippling blow to the Corsican wine industry, and was followed by a period of mass depopulation as Corsicans emigrated to other countries. The Algerian war of Independence ushered in a new period of growth as Frenchpieds-noirs immigrated to Corsica and began new plantings.[4] During this time, the number of vineyards increased fourfold. The overall quality of Corsican wine was poor due to the emphasis on quantity over quality, with Corsica becoming a prominent contributor to Europe'swine lake problem. In the 1980s, theEuropean Union began issuingsubsidies to encourage the uprooting of vines and to renew focus on limited yields and quality wine production. By 2003, these programs had contributed to a reduction of over 17,300 acres (7,000 ha) in the number of vineyard plantings in Corsica, as well as the introduction of modern winemaking techniques and equipment such as temperature-controlledfermentation tanks.[1]

Climate and geography

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Most of Corsica's vineyards are located around the coast.

The island of Corsica is the most mountainous island in the Mediterranean. The climate is warmer and drier than in mainland France. During the peak growing month of July, themean average temperature is 74 °F (23 °C). The average annual rainfall for most Corsica's wine growing regions is 29 inches (740 mm) and 2.6 inches (66 mm) during theharvest month of September.[6] Very little rain falls during months of August and September allowing for a dry, rot-free harvest for mostvintages. Corsica averages around 2,750 hours of sunshine a year, with the nearby sea absorbing most of the heat during the day and radiating it back to the island at night. This creates a more consistent temperature and sharply reduces thediurnal temperature variation. Throughout the mountainous terrain there are severalmesoclimates created by the differing degrees ofaltitude,latitude andmaritime influences.[1]

There are several differentsoil types found in the wine growing regions of Corsica. In the northern region consisting of the Cap Corsepeninsula the soil is mainlyschist. Just south of the Cap Corse is thelimestone-richchalk andclay soil of thePatrimonio region. Along the west coast, the soil contains a high concentration ofgranite. The vineyards planted on the east coast of the island between the cities ofSolenzara and Bastia are planted mostly onmarlysand.[1]

Wine regions

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Corsica's wine regions:(1) Cap Corse, (2) Patrimonio, (3) Calvi, (4) Ajaccio, (5) Sartène, (6) Figari, (7) Porto-Vecchio, (8) Greater Vin de Corse region. The Muscat du Cap Corse region overlaps with part of the Cap Corse and Patrimonio regions.

Corsica has nine AOC regions and an island-wide vin de pays designationVin de Pays de l'Île de Beauté that accounts for two thirds of the island's entire wine production. ThePatrimonio region on the north coast was the first to receive AOC designation when it was established in 1968. On the west coast is alarge region centered around the island's capital city of Ajaccio which includes some of Corsica's highest elevated vineyard land. The generic Vin de Corse AOC covers the entire island and includes the smaller sub-regions ofVin de Corse-Coteaux du Cap Corse,Vin de Corse-Calvi,Vin de Corse-Figari,Vin de Corse-Porto Vecchio andVin de Corse-Sartène AOCs covers specific regions and generally mandates loweryields than the Vin de Corse AOC. TheMuscat du Cap Corse AOC includes thevin doux naturel wines produced in the northern peninsular tip of the island.[1]

Patrimonio

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The Patrimonio wine region is located on the northern coast of the island, west of the city of Bastia, on the chalk- and clay-based soils around the city of Patrimonio. The Nielluccio grape is the main variety and usually composes up to 95% of the regions AOC red androsé wines. The white wines of the regions are often 100% Vermentino.[7] In 2002, the region changed it AOC regulations on theencépagement (grape composition) of the wines to where at least 90% of the red wines and 75% of the rosés must be Nielluccio, withGrenache, Sciacarello and Vermentino permitted to round out the rest. According to wine expertTom Stevenson, the wines from this region typically drink at their peak within 1–3 years after vintage.[8]

Ajaccio

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The Ajaccio wine region includes the vineyards surrounding the southwestern coastal town of Ajaccio. The region produces mostlymedium-bodied red and rosé wine made primarily from Sciacarello. White wines from Ajaccio are often blends ofUgni blanc and Vermentino.[7] Under AOC regulations, the red wines must contain at least 40% Sciacarello, which together withBarbarossa, Nielluccio and Vermentino must compose a minimum 60% of the total wine blend. The remaining maximum of 40% can come from a blend of Grenache,Cinsault andCarignan-though Carignan is relegated to comprising no more than 15% of the blend. Stevenson notes that these wines typically have the samelongevity as the wines from Patrimonio.[8]

Vin de Corse

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This region-wide designation and its sub-regions account for around 45% of all AOC wines produced in Corsica. Red and rosé wines here must include at least a 50% composition of Nielluccio, Sciacarello and Grenache. The white wines are composed primarily of Vermentino.[7] This region includes many of Corsica's oldest established wineries that were founded in the 1960s on the island's eastern plains. TheVin de Corse-Coteaux du Cap Corse is located on the northern peninsular tip of the island and producessweet wines made fromMuscat andAleatico. The wines made from the latter are commonly labeled asRappu wine.[1]

A vineyard in the Figari region of south west Corsica.

The sub-region ofVin de Corse-Calvi is located around the northwestern coastal town ofCalvi, located north of Ajaccio. The wines of this region must follow the same AOCencepagment as the greater Vin de Corse, with the red and rosé wines containing at least 50% Grenache, Nielluccio, and Sciacarello, and no more than 50% of combined blend of Barbarossa, Carignan, Cinsault,Mourvedre,Syrah, andVermentino. Carignan and Vermentino are further relegated to comprising no more than 20% of the entire blend. The white wines must contain at least 75% Vermentino, with Ugni blanc permitted to be included in the blend. The sub-region ofVin de Corse-Porto Vecchio is located on the southeastern coast around the city ofPorto Vecchio. The sub-region ofVin de Corse-Figari is situated around the southwestern town ofFigari, located betweenSartène and Porto Vecchio. The sub-region ofVin de Corse-Sartène is located northwest of Figari and is centered around the town of Sartène.[8]

Around the communes of Figari and Sartène are the few remaining vines ofBariadorgia/Carcajolo blanc remaining.[9]

Muscat du Cap Corse

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The Muscat du Cap Corse region includes primarily the northern peninsular tip and overlaps with the Vin de Corse Coteaux du Cap Corse AOC as well as five communes that produces wines in the Patrimonio AOC. The sweetdessert wine from the Cap Corse region is produced in the vin doux naturel style and is composed entirely ofMuscat Blanc à Petits Grains.[8]

Viticulture and winemaking

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A 2003 breakdown of the amount of AOC Corsican wine is produced compared toVin de Pays andVin de Table.

The average elevation of vineyards in Corsica is 300 metres (1,000 ft) above sea levels where they are susceptible to strong winds. Vines were traditionallypruned to agoblet style, but modernviticultural practice andmechanical harvesting have encouraged more widespread use of singleguyot andcordon de royattraining styles. Vines are typically planted to a density average of 1,000 vines peracre (2,500 vines perhectare). The use ofirrigation is prohibited in all AOC regions. Vineyards in Corsica are prone to occasionalcicadelle attacks, which makes the vines susceptible to thephytoplasmicgrape diseaseFlavescence dorée. Additional viticultural hazards includedowny mildew andpowdery mildew.[1]

The European Union grant programs have encouraged many Corsican wineries to upgrade their facilities with temperature controlled stainless steelfermentation tanks. This allows the white and rosé wines from this warmer climate wine region to be fermented cool at between 64–68 °F (18–20 °C). Reds are often fermented in excess of 86 °F (30 °C) though some winemakers have experimented with cooler fermentation. Rosés are produced using thesaignée method withmalolactic fermentation being intentionally suppressed (as they usually are with Corsican whites as well). Red wines normally will go through malolactic fermentation and spend some time aging inoak barrels, though the use of new oak and extended oak aging has been a relatively recent development in Corsican winemaking. The white wines of Corsica are rarely exposed to oak, though some winemakers have experimented with making aBurgundian orMuscadet style wine from Vermentino which includes barrel fermentation and significant amount oflees stirring.[1]

Reintroduction of old grape varieties

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In 2007,ampelographers discovered throughDNA testing that the Licronaxu bianco and itscolor mutation grapevine Licronaxu nero growing on the nearby island of Sardinia were actually the old Corsican wine grapeBrustiano bianco. This discovery has allowed for the grape's reintroduction to Corsica where it is often blended with Vermentino,Biancu Gentile andScimiscià.[10]

References

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  1. ^abcdefghijkJ. Robinson (ed)"The Oxford Companion to Wine" Third Edition pp. 203–204 Oxford University Press 2006ISBN 0-19-860990-6
  2. ^H. JohnsonVintage: The Story of Wine p. 39 Simon and Schuster 1989ISBN 0-671-68702-6
  3. ^H. JohnsonVintage: The Story of Wine p. 98 Simon and Schuster 1989ISBN 0-671-68702-6
  4. ^abcH. JohnsonVintage: The Story of Wine p. 309 Simon and Schuster 1989ISBN 0-671-68702-6
  5. ^J. Robinson (ed)"The Oxford Companion to Wine" Third Edition p. 484 Oxford University Press 2006ISBN 0-19-860990-6
  6. ^H. Johnson & J. RobinsonThe World Atlas of Wine p. 147 Mitchell Beazley Publishing 2005ISBN 1-84000-332-4
  7. ^abcE. McCarthy & M. Ewing-Mulligan"French Wine for Dummies" pp. 241–242 Wiley Publishing 2001ISBN 0-7645-5354-2
  8. ^abcdT. Stevenson"The Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia" pp. 245–247 Dorling Kindersley 2005ISBN 0-7566-1324-8
  9. ^J. Robinson, J. Harding and J. VouillamozWine Grapes - A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours pgs 89-90 Allen Lane 2012ISBN 978-1-846-14446-2
  10. ^J. Robinson, J. Harding and J. VouillamozWine Grapes - A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours pgs 140-141, 1076 Allen Lane 2012ISBN 978-1-846-14446-2

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