The traditional Cornish pasty, which since 2011 has hadProtected Geographical Indication (PGI) status in Europe,[4] is filled withbeef, sliced or diced potato,swede (also known as yellow turnip or rutabaga – referred to in Cornwall and other parts of theWest Country asturnip) and onion, seasoned with salt and pepper, andbaked. Today, the pasty is the food most associated with Cornwall. It is a traditional dish and accounts for 6% of the Cornish food economy. Pasties with many different fillings are made, and some shops specialise in selling pasties.
The origins of the pasty are unclear, though there are many references to them throughout historical documents and fiction. The pasty is now popular worldwide because of thespread of Cornish miners and sailors from across Cornwall, and variations can be found in Australia, Mexico, the United States,Ulster and elsewhere.
An old postcard from Cornwall showing a partly eaten pasty
Despite the modern pasty's strong association with Cornwall, its origins are unclear. The English word "pasty" derives from Medieval French (O.Fr.paste from V.Latpasta[5]) for a pie, filled withvenison, salmon or other meat, vegetables or cheese, baked without a dish.[6] In 1393,Le Ménagier de Paris contains recipes forpasté with venison,veal, beef ormutton.[7]
Other early references to pasties include a charter that was granted byKing John of England to the town ofGreat Yarmouth in 1208. The town was bound to send to the sheriffs ofNorwich every yearone hundred herrings, baked in twenty four pasties, which the sheriffs delivered to the lord of the manor ofEast Carlton who then conveyed them to the king.[8] Around the same time, 13th-centurychroniclerMatthew Paris wrote of the monks ofSt Albans Abbey "according to their custom, lived upon pasties of flesh-meat".[9] In 1465, 5,500 venison pasties were served at the installation feast ofGeorge Neville, archbishop of York and chancellor of England.[10] The earliest reference for a pasty inDevon or Cornwall can be found inPlymouth city records of 1509/10, which describe "Itm for the cooke is labor to make the pasties 10d".[11] They were even eaten by royalty, as a letter from a baker toHenry VIII's third wifeJane Seymour confirms: "...hope this pasty reaches you in better condition than the last one ..."[12] In his diaries written in the mid-17th century,Samuel Pepys makes several references to his consumption of pasties, for instance "dined atSir W. Pen's ... on a damned venison pasty, that stunk like a devil",[13] but after this period the use of the word outside Devon and Cornwall declined.[14]
In contrast to its earlier place amongst the wealthy, during the 17th and 18th centuries, the pasty became popular with working people in Cornwall and west Devon, wheretin miners and others adopted it because of its unique shape, forming a complete meal that could be carried easily and eaten without cutlery.[15][16][17] In a mine, the pasty's dense, folded pastry could stay warm for several hours, and if it did get cold, it could easily be warmed on a shovel over a candle.[18]
Side-crimped pasties gave rise to the suggestion that the miner might have eaten the pasty holding the thick edge of pastry, which was later discarded, thereby ensuring that dirty fingers (possibly including traces ofarsenic) did not touch the food or mouth.[19] However, many old photographs show that pasties were wrapped in bags made of paper ormuslin and were eaten from end to end;[20] according to the earliest Cornish recipe book, published in 1929, this is "the true Cornish way" to eat a pasty.[21] Another theory suggests that pasties were marked at one end with an initial and then eaten from the other end so that if not finished in one sitting, they could easily be reclaimed by their owners.[18]
The pasty is regarded as the national dish of Cornwall,[22][23][24] and an early reference is from a New Zealand newspaper:
In Cornwall, there is a common practice among those cottagers who bake at home of making little pasties for the dinners of those who may be working at a distance in the fields. They will last the whole week, and are made of any kind of meat or fruit, rolled up in a paste made of flour and suet or lard. A couple of ounces of bacon and half a-pound of raw potatoes, both thinly sliced and slightly seasoned, will be found sufficient for the meal. The pasty can be carried in the man's pocket.
The term "Cornish pasty" has been in use since at least the early 1860s:
The Cornish pasty, which so admirably comprises a dinner in itself—meat, potatoes, and other good things well cooked and made up into so portable a form—was a subject of much admiration, and reminded me of the old coaching days, when I secured a pasty at Bodmin in order to take it home to my cook, that it might be dissected and serve as a pattern for Cornish pasties in quite another part of the country.
Cornish pasties are very popular with the working classes in this neighbourhood, and have lately been successfully introduced into some parts of Devonshire. They are made of small pieces of beef, and thin slices of potato, highly peppered, and enclosed in wrappers of paste.
By the late 19th century, national cookery schools began to teach their pupils to create their own version of a "Cornish pasty" that was smaller and was to be eaten as an "economical savoury nibble for polite middle-class Victorians".[28][29][30]
On 20 July 2011, after a nine-year campaign by theCornish Pasty Association (CPA) – the trade organisation of about 50 pasty makers based in Cornwall – the name "Cornish pasty" was awarded Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status by theEuropean Commission.[31] According to the PGI status, a Cornish pasty should be shaped like a 'D' and crimped on one side, not on the top. Its ingredients should include beef, swede (called turnip in Cornwall),[32] potato and onion, with a light seasoning of salt and pepper, keeping a chunky texture. The pastry should be golden and retain its shape when cooked and cooled.[19] The PGI status also means that Cornish pasties must be prepared in Cornwall. They do not have to be baked in Cornwall,[33] nor do the ingredients have to come from the county, though the CPA notes that there are strong links between pasty production and local suppliers of the ingredients.[34] Packaging for pasties that conform to the requirements includes an authentication stamp, the use of which is policed by the CPA.[19]
Producers outside Cornwall objected to the PGI award, with one saying "[EU bureaucrats could] go to hell",[35] and another that it was "protectionism for some big pasty companies to churn out apastiche of the real iconic product". Major UK supermarketsAsda andMorrisons both stated they would be affected by the change,[35] as did nationwide bakery chainGreggs, though Greggs was one of seven companies allowed to continue to use the name "Cornish pasty" during a three-year transitional period.[4]
Members of the CPA made about 87 million pasties in 2008, amounting to sales of £60 million (about 6% of the food economy of Cornwall).[36] In 2011, over 1,800 permanent staff were employed by members of the CPA and some 13,000 other jobs benefited from the trade.[37] Surveys by the South West tourism board have shown that one of the top three reasons people visit Cornwall is the food and that the Cornish pasty is the food most associated with Cornwall.[19]
A traditional Cornish pasty filled with steak and vegetables
The recipe for a Cornish pasty, as defined by its protected status, includes diced or minced beef, onion, potato and swede in rough chunks along with some "light peppery"seasoning.[19] The cut of beef used is generallyskirt steak.[38] Swede is sometimes calledturnip in Cornwall,[39] but the recipe requires use of actual swede, not turnip.[32] Pasty ingredients are usually seasoned with salt and pepper, depending on individual taste.[40]
The type of pastry used is not defined, as long as it is golden in colour and will not crack during the cooking or cooling,[19] although modern pasties almost always use a shortcrust pastry.[40] There is a humorous belief that the pastry on a good pasty should be strong enough to withstand a drop down a mine shaft,[41] and indeed the barley flour that was usually used does make hard dense pastry.[42]
For Pasties sold in the United Kingdom, theMeat Pie and Sausage Roll Regulation 1967 states that Pasties must contain meat that is a minimum 12.75% of the weight of the pastry.[43]
Although the officially protected Cornish pasty has a specific ingredients list, old Cornish cookery books show that pasties were generally made from whatever food was available.[44] Indeed, the earliest recorded pasty recipes include venison, not beef.[45] "Pasty" has always been a generic name for the shape and can contain a variety of fillings, includingstilton, vegetarian and evenchicken tikka.[44]Pork andapple pasties are readily available in shops throughout Cornwall and Devon, with the ingredients including an apple flavoured sauce, mixed together throughout the pasty, as well as sweet pasties with ingredients such as apple and fig or chocolate and banana, which are common in some areas of Cornwall.[17]
A part-savoury, part-sweet pasty (similar to theBedfordshire clanger) was eaten by miners in the 19th century, in the copper mines onParys Mountain,Anglesey. The technician who did the research and discovered the recipe claimed that the recipe was probably taken to Anglesey by Cornish miners travelling to the area looking for work.[46] No two-course pasties are commercially produced in Cornwall today,[47] but are usually the product of amateur cooks.[40] They are, however, commercially available in the British supermarket chainMorrisons (under the name 'Tin Miner Pasty').[48] Other traditional fillings have included a wide variety of locally available meats including pork, bacon, egg, rabbit, chicken,mackerel and sweet fillings such as dates, apples,jam and sweetened rice - leading to the oft-quoted joke that 'the Devil hisself was afeared to cross over into Cornwall for fear that ee'd end up in a pasty'.[49]
A pasty is known as a "tiddy oggy" when steak is replaced with an extra potato, "tiddy" meaning potato and "oggy" meaning pasty and was eaten when times were hard and expensive meat could not be afforded.[50] Another traditional meatless recipe is 'herby pie' with parsley, freshly gathered wild green herbs and chives,ramsons or leeks and a spoonful ofclotted cream.[49]
Whilst the PGI rules state that a Cornish pasty must be a "D" shape, with crimping along the curve (i.e., side-crimped),[35] crimping is variable within both Devon and Cornwall, with some advocating a side crimp while others maintain that a top crimp is more authentic.[17][47][51] Some sources state that the difference between a Devon and a Cornish pasty is that a Devon pasty has a top-crimp and is oval in shape, whereas the Cornish pasty is semicircular and side-crimped along the curve.[40] However, pasties with a top crimp have been made in Cornwall for generations,[52] yet those Cornish bakers who favour this method now find that they cannot legally call their pasties "Cornish".[53]Paul Hollywood, writing forBBC Food, stated that a traditional Cornish pasty should have about 20 crimps.[54]
A "Cousin Jack's" pasty shop in Grass Valley, California
Migrating Devonian and Cornish miners and their families (colloquially known as Cousin Jacks and Cousin Jennies) helped to spread pasties into the rest of the world during the 19th century. Astin mining in Devon and Cornwall began to decline, miners took their expertise and traditions to new mining regions around the world.[55] As a result, pasties can be found in many regions, including:
Many parts of Australia, including theYorke Peninsula, which has been the site of anannual Cornish festival (claimed to be the world's largest) since 1973. A clarification of the Protected Geographical Status ruling has confirmed that pasties made in Australia are still allowed to be called "Cornish Pasties".[56]
A Lancashire pasty is a traditional variant originating inLancashire, especiallyWest Lancashire that is similar to its Cornish counterpart but uses carrot instead of swede.
The pasty has become a cultural symbol of theUpper Peninsula ofMichigan.[57][58] Pasty shops are a significant tourist attraction in the region. Additionally, the village ofCalumet is home to an annual Pasty Festival.[59] Many ethnic groups adopted the pasty for use in theCopper Country copper mines; theFinnish immigrants to the region mistook it for the traditionalpiirakka andkukko pastries.[60][61] The pasty has become strongly associated with all cultures in this area and in theIron Range in northernMinnesota.[62]
Mineral Point, Wisconsin, was the site of the first mineral rush in the United States during the 1830s. After lead was discovered in Mineral Point, many of the early miners migrated from Cornwall to this southwestern Wisconsin area. Pasties can be found in Wisconsin's largest cities,Madison[63] andMilwaukee, as well as in the far northern region along the border with Michigan's Upper Peninsula.[64]
A similar local history about the arrival of the pasty in the area with an influx of Cornish miners to the area's copper mines, and its preservation as a local delicacy, is found inButte, Montana, "The Richest Hill on Earth".[65] Miners referred to the pasty as a "letter from 'ome."[66]
A Mexican "paste"The Mexican state ofHidalgo and the twin silver mining cities ofPachuca and Real del Monte (Mineral del Monte) have notable Cornish influences from the Cornish miners who settled there, with pasties being considered typical local cuisine.[67] In Mexican Spanish, they are referred to aspastes.[68] A pasty museum is located in Real del Monte.[69] The annualInternational Pasty Festival is held in Real del Monte each October.[70]
When I view my Country o'er: Of goodly things the plenteous store: The Sea and Fish that swim therein And underground the Copper and Tin: Let all the World say what it can Still I hold by the Cornishman, And that one most especially That first found out the Cornish Pastie.
In the tin mines of Devon and Cornwall, pasties were associated with "knockers", spirits said to create a knocking sound that was either supposed to indicate the location of rich veins of ore,[75] or to warn of an impending tunnel collapse. To encourage the good will of the knockers, miners would leave a small part of the pasty within the mine for them to eat.[76] Sailors and fisherman would likewise discard a crust to appease the spirits of dead mariners, though fishermen believed that it was bad luck to take a pasty aboard ship.[76]
A Cornish proverb, recounted in 1861, emphasised the great variety of ingredients that were used in pasties by saying that the devil would not come into Cornwall for fear of ending up as a filling in one.[77] ACornish schoolboyplayground-rhyme current in the 1940s concerning the pasty went:
Matthew,Mark,Luke andJohn, ate a pasty five feet long, Bit it once, Bit it twice, Oh my Lord, it's full of mice.[41]
In 1959 the English singer-songwriterCyril Tawney wrote a nostalgic song called "The Oggie Man". The song tells of the pasty-seller with his characteristic vendor's call who was always outside Plymouth'sDevonport Naval Dockyard gates late at night when the sailors were returning, and his replacement by hot dog sellers after World War II.[78]
The word "oggy" in the internationally popular chant "Oggy Oggy Oggy, Oi Oi Oi" is thought to stem from Cornish dialect "hoggan", deriving from "hogen" theCornish word for pasty. When the pasties were ready for eating, thebal maidens at the mines would supposedly shout down the shaft "Oggy Oggy Oggy" and the miners would reply "Oi Oi Oi".[79][dubious –discuss]
As the 'national dish' of Cornwall, several oversized versions of the pasty have been created in the county. For example, a giant pasty is paraded fromPolruan toFowey through the streets during regatta week.[80] Similarly, a giant pasty is paraded around the ground of theCornish Pirates rugby team onSt Piran's Day before it is passed over the goal posts.[81]
^"Thursday 1 August 1667".The Diary of Samuel Pepys. Phil Gyford. August 2010.Archived from the original on 19 January 2012. Retrieved1 September 2011.
^Laura Mason & Catherine Brown (2007).From Bath Chaps to Bara Brith: The Taste of South West Britain. Harper Press. pp. 32–33.ISBN978-0-7524-4742-1.
^"COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 510/2006 'CORNISH PASTY' EC No: UK-PGI-005-0727-11.11.2008".Official Journal of the European Union. 14 July 2010.Archived from the original on 1 June 2013. Retrieved9 August 2015. "Assembly of the pasties in preparation for baking must take place in the designated area. The actual baking does not have to be done within the geographical area, it is possible to send the finished but unbaked and/or frozen pasties to bakers or other outlets outside the area where they can be baked in ovens for consumption."
^"Who ate all the pies",The Press, Christchurch, New Zealand, 5 September 2009
^"Havelok the Dane". University of Rochester Robbins Library.Archived from the original on 11 August 2011. Retrieved1 September 2011. (line 645)
^InThe Merry Wives of Windsor Act 1 Scene 1, Page saysWife, bid these gentlemen welcome. Come, we have a hot venison pasty to dinner: come gentlemen, I hope we shall drink down all unkindness.
^InAll's Well That Ends Well, Act IV Scene III, Parrolles states:I will confess to what I know without constraint: if ye pinch me like a pasty, I can say no more.
^Halliwell, James Orchard (1861).Rambles in Western Cornwall by the Footsteps of the Giants. London: John Russell Smith. pp. 40–41.In fact so universal are the contents of Cornish pasties, a local proverb states that the devil will not venture into Cornwall, for if the inhabitants caught him, they would be sure to put him into a pie
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