Thecioccolato di Modica (Modica chocolate or chocolate of Modica, also known ascioccolata modicana) is anItalianprotected geographical indication (PGI) specialtychocolate,[1] typical of thecomune (municipality) ofModica, in Sicily, characterized by an ancient and original recipe using manual grinding (rather thanconching) which gives the chocolate a peculiar grainy texture and aromatic flavor.[2][3][4] As aprodotto agroalimentare tradizionale (PAT), it is a specialty officially recognized by the ItalianMinistry of Agriculture, Food and Forestry Policies. Modica chocolate is made "cold" (a freddo) according to a traditional recipe and is notconched.
The specialty was introduced in theCounty of Modica by the Spaniards, duringtheir domination in southern Italy.[5][6] Their noble house was the most influential feudal power in southern Italy in the 16th century, during the Spanish domination of Sicily.[7] Even today there is a similar form of preparation in Spain in the form ofchocolate a la piedra; such varieties are also known inMexico andGuatemala. According toLeonardo Sciascia, the recipe comes fromAlicante; there were originally only two forms of preparation, with cinnamon and with vanilla.[8] Before the product became an internationally known specialty, it was a holiday dessert in noble families. The Spaniards probably learned from theAztecs the technique of processing cocoa beans through the use ofmetate; however, Modica chocolate uses sugar in addition to cocoa, an ingredient which would have been unavailable to the Aztecs.
Modica chocolate only became nationally known in 1999, when the chocolatier Franco Ruta published a newspaper article and subsequently appeared on theMaurizio Costanzo Show on television. Ruta was managing director ofAntica Dolceria Bonajuto, founded in 1880[9][10] and calledCaffè Roma until 1992.[11] It has been in the hands of Franco Ruta's son Pierpaolo Ruta since 2016. At the same time as Ruta's television appearance, the popular police seriesInspector Montalbano, which was partly filmed in Modica, was broadcast on Italian television. Thecomune (municipality) of Modica reinforced this publicity by hosting an annual chocolate fair ("Chocobarocco"). Within a short period of time there were 75 companies in Modica producing or selling chocolate. The chocolate industry thus became the city's largest employer.[12]
In 2003, 20 local producers founded theConsorzio di Tutela del Cioccolato di Modica to protectCioccolato di Modica as aprotected geographical indication (PGI).
In 2017, the consortium also applied for protection at EU level as protected geographical indication for the same designation, which was granted in October 2018 with the Implementing Regulation (EU) 2018/1529.[13]
TheAntica Dolceria Bonajuto, which is considered to be the oldest still existing chocolate shop in the region,[14] did not participate in the consortium. Rather, the Ruta family criticized the specification as insufficient[11][15] and, after the publication of the PGI, produced chocolates as a provocation[16] under the namecioccolato di un paese vicino a Ragusa (lit. 'chocolate from a village nearRagusa').
Modica chocolate is cold processed and has no cocoa butter added, at 45 degrees Celsius and without theconching process sugar does not dissolve; that's why it has a different texture. The finished chocolate therefore has a grainy, rough consistency, with the inclusion of small air bubbles; it crumbles when broken. When sold, the bars are slightly gray on the surface due to the cocoa butter that has been excreted. In the mouth, the chocolate unfolds an intense cocoa aroma. According to the age old Modica cold working process all the beneficial properties of cocoa are kept intact.
Groundcocoa, from which the cocoa butter has not been extracted, is heated to a maximum of 40 °C (104 °F). Sugar is added to the mass and possibly a spice such ascinnamon,vanilla,ginger,chili, ground almonds or nuts or grated citrus peel. The cocoa content is 45–90%. In traditional hand preparation, the mass was rolled out in a crescent-shaped, heated mold made of lava rock in several steps with rollers of different thicknesses until it had the desired consistency. Nowadays this is done by machines. The finished, warm chocolate mass is then poured into pewter molds in the form of thick bars.
Modica chocolate often has a white patina and tends to crumble. The cocoa butterblooming alters the traditional organoleptic properties of the product. Apart from the substances mentioned, Modica chocolate contains no other ingredients, in particular no milk, no butter, no vegetable fat and nolecithin.
From 2005 to 2008, Modica hostedEurochocolate alongside Perugia.[17] Since 2009 a festival named "Chocobarocco" is held every year in the city,[18][19] organized together with theFine Chocolate Organization.[20]
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