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Thecassock, orsoutane, is a Christianclerical coat used by the clergy andmale religious of theOriental Orthodox Churches,Eastern Orthodox Church and theCatholic Church, in addition to some clergy in certainProtestant denominations such asAnglicans andLutherans. "Ankle-length garment" is the literal meaning of the correspondingLatin term,vestis talaris. It is related to thehabits traditionally worn bynuns,monks, andfriars.
The cassock derives historically from thetunic ofclassical antiquity that inancient Rome was worn underneath thetoga, and thechiton that was worn beneath thehimation inancient Greece. In religious services, it has traditionally been worn underneathvestments, such as thealb.
In the West, the cassock is little used today except for religious services, save fortraditionalist and those other Catholic clergy and religious who continue to wear the cassock as their standard attire. However, in many countries it was the normal everyday wear of the clergy until the 1960s, when it was largely replaced by clerical suits, distinguished fromlay dress by being generally black and by a black shirt incorporating aclerical collar.
In Japan, malegakuran school uniform were inspired by cassocks.[citation needed]
The wordcassock comes fromMiddle Frenchcasaque, meaning a long coat. In turn, theOld French word may come ultimately fromTurkishkazak (nomad, adventurer – the source of the wordCossack), an allusion to their typical riding coat, or fromPersianکژاغندkazhāgand (padded garment) –کژkazh (raw silk) +آغندāgand (stuffed).[1] The name was originally specially applied to the dress worn by soldiers and horsemen, and later to the long garment worn in civil life by both men and women. As an ecclesiastical term, the wordcassock came into use somewhat late (as a translation of the old names ofsubtanea,vestis talaris,toga talaris, ortunica talaris), being mentioned in Canon LXXIV (74) of theAnglican1604 Canons;[2] and it is in this sense alone that it now survives.
The wordsoutane is a French word, coming fromLatinsubtana, the adjectival form ofsubtus (beneath).[3]
The cassock (or soutane) comes in a number of styles orcuts, though no particular symbolism attaches to these. ARoman cassock often has a series of buttons down the front. In some English-speaking countries these buttons may be merely ornamental, with a concealed fly-front buttoning, known as a Chesterfield front, used to fasten the garment. A French cassock also has buttons sewn to the sleeves after the manner of asuit, and a slightly broader skirt. AnAmbrosian cassock has a series of only five buttons under the neck, with a sash on the waist. AJesuit cassock, in lieu of buttons, has a fly fastened with hooks at the collar and is bound at the waist with a cincture knotted on the right side.
The ordinary Roman cassock worn by Roman Catholic clerics (as distinct from that worn as choir dress) is black except in tropical countries, where because of the heat it is white and usually without shoulder cape (pellegrina). Colouredpiping and buttons are added in accordance with rank: black for priests, purple forchaplains of His Holiness; amaranth red forbishops,protonotaries apostolic andHonorary Prelates; and scarlet red forcardinals.[4]
The 1969 Instruction on the dress of prelates stated that for all of them, even cardinals, the dress for ordinary use may be a simple black cassock without coloured trim.[5]
A band cincture or sash, known also as afascia, may be worn with the cassock. The Instruction on the dress of prelates specifies that the two ends that hang down by the side have silk fringes, abolishing the sash with tassels.[6] A black faille fascia is worn by priests, deacons, and major seminarians, while a purple faille fascia is used by bishops, protonotaries apostolic, honorary prelates, and chaplains of His Holiness, when wearing a cassock with coloured trim. A black watered-silk fascia is permitted for priests attached to thepapal household, a purple watered-silk fascia for bishops attached to the papal household (for example,Apostolic Nuncios), and a scarlet watered-silk fascia for cardinals. The Pope wears a white watered-silk fascia, sometimes with his coat of arms on the ends.
Inchoir dress, chaplains of His Holiness wear their purple-trimmed black cassocks with acotta, but bishops, protonotaries apostolic, and honorary prelates use (with a cotta or, in the case of bishops, arochet andmozzetta) cassocks that are fully purple (this purple corresponds more closely with a Roman purple and is approximated as fuchsia) with scarlet trim, while those of cardinals are fully scarlet with scarlet trim. Cardinals have the additional distinction of having both choir cassock sleeves and the fascia made of scarlet watered-silk. Thecut of the choir cassock is still a Roman-cut or French-cut Roman cassock.
In the past, a cardinal's cassock was made entirely of watered silk, with a train that could be fastened at the back of the cassock. This train was abolished by themotu proprioValde solliciti ofPope Pius XII with effect from 1 January 1953.[7] With the samemotu proprio, the Pope ordered that the violet cassock (then used in penitential periods and in mourning) be made of wool, not silk,[8] and in February 1965, under Pope Paul VI, a circular of the Sacred Ceremonial Congregation abolished the use of watered silk also for the red cassock.[9]
An elbow-length shoulder cape, open in front, is sometimes worn with the cassock, either fixed to it or detachable. It is known as apellegrina. It is distinct from the mozzetta, which is buttoned in front and is worn over arochet.
The general rule of the Roman Catholic Church is that the pellegrina may be worn with the cassock by cardinals and bishops.[10] In 1850, the year in which herestored the Catholic hierarchy in England and Wales,Pope Pius IX was understood to grant to all priests there the privilege of wearing a replica in black of his own white caped cassock.[11] Since then, the wearing of the pellegrina with the cassock has been a sign of a Roman Catholic priest in England and Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand, although sometimes imitated by Anglican priests.
In his 1909 book,Costume of Prelates of the Catholic Church, John Abel Felix Prosper Nainfa proposed[12] the use of the English word "simar", instead of the word "cassock", for the garment with shoulder cape, which he treated as distinct from the cassock proper. Others too have made the same distinction between the "simar" (with pellegrina) and the "cassock" (without), but many scholars disagree with Nainfa's distinction.[13] More particularly, documents of theHoly See make no such distinction, using the termcassock orvestis talaris whether a pellegrina is attached or is not. Thus the 1969 instruction states that, for cardinals and bishops, "the elbow-length cape, trimmed in the same manner as thiscassock, may be worn over it".[10]Cassock, rather thansimar, is the term that is usually applied to the dress of Popes and other Catholic ecclesiastics. The instruction also gives no support to Nainfa's claim that the cassock with shoulder cape should not be worn in church services, which moreover would be of difficult application, since the cassock with pellegrina is generally made as a single garment, with a non-detachable pellegrina.
Nainfa wrote that at that time the garment with shoulder cape was in Italian called azimarra, a term, however, that in that language is today used rather of a historical loose-fitting overgown, quite unlike the close-fitting cassock with pellegrina worn by Catholic clergy,[14][15] and similar to the fur-linedSchaube [de] that was used in northern Europe.[16][17] Images of the historical zimarra as worn by women can be seen at "Dressing the Italian Way"[18] and "The Italian Showcase".[19]
In cold weather, the manto, an ankle-length cape with or without shoulder cape, or thegreca, also known as the douillette, an ankle-length double-breasted overcoat, is traditionally worn over the cassock. For bishops and priests both the manto and greca are solid black in colour, while for the pope the manto is red and the greca is white.
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TheAnglican church uses single and double-breasted cassocks. For many this is to indicate tradition (single-breasted in theAnglo-Catholic tradition and double-breasted in theevangelical end of the church).[20]
The double-breasted cassock fastens at the shoulders on the opposing side of the breast and at the waist with one concealed button. The latter usually has a single small stem-button sewn at centre front about 12–15 centimetres (4+1⁄2–6 in) below the centre-front neck line which is used to secure theacademic hood, worn for Choir Dress.
The single-breasted cassock worn by Anglicans traditionally has thirty-nine buttons as signifying theThirty-Nine Articles, or as some would prefer "Forty stripes save one" – the punishmentSaint Paul the Apostle says he received from the Jews.
Cassocks are often worn without acincture and some opt for a buckled belt.[21]
Black is the most common colour for priests (presbyters),readers, vergers, and server cassocks. Lighter colours, such as white are used in tropical countries and some cathedrals have colours specific for their location. Piping is also used in the Anglican church to indicate position held with red being used for Deans, Archdeacons and Cathedral Canons. Bishops andArchbishops often wear purple cassocks. This has been practise since the 19th century. More recently the Archbishops have chosen to wear black, this can be seen in the ministries ofRowan Williams andJustin Welby. A comparatively recent custom – since the reign ofEdward VII – is that scarlet cassocks are properly worn only byChaplains to the King and by members of Royal foundations such asWestminster Abbey and some Cambridge college chapels.[22] They are also worn by the Head Master and Master of the King's Scholars ofWestminster School.[23] Nonetheless, many cathedral canons wear full crimson cassocks rather than with mere piping,[citation needed] as do many servers guilds and choirs due to longstanding practice.
Cassocks are sometimes also worn byreaders,altar servers, andchoir members, when they do this is the double-breasted style. Readers and altar servers usually wear black cassocks, but those worn by choirs are usually coloured.[citation needed]
Ministers (presbyters) of theMethodist Church of Great Britain also traditionally wear a double-breasted cassock (as in the evangelical Anglican tradition).[24]
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In the Evangelical Lutheran Churches ofDenmark, theFaroe Islands,Iceland, and the North GermanHanseatic cities ofHamburg andLübeck, clergy wear the cassock with theruff asvestments.
The Cassock is also worn occasionally in American Lutheran churches. In previous years, the cassock was worn in combination with a white surplice which almost entirely covered it. It is customary for a minority of clergy to wear it on special high holidays such as Good Friday and Ash Wednesday. Most commonly, Lutheran pastors wear analb over a clerical shirt (with clergy collar).Vestments, most commonly astole, are worn over the alb.
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In theChurch of Scotland, and Presbyterian churches which trace their heritage back to the Scottish church, they typically use the Anglican style of cassock. In addition, it is not uncommon to see full-length cassocks worn in the blue of theFlag of Scotland, which is also tied to the academic dress of theUniversity of St Andrews. As is the custom within the Church of England, ministers of the Church of Scotland who are chaplains to the royal family also wear a scarlet cassock. Over this is typically worn apreaching gown or theacademic gown of the minister. During theEdwardian andVictorian era, it was common to see a shortened, double-breasted black silk cassock worn under the gown. It generally reached to the knees and was tied with a simplecincture. However, with theliturgical movement of the 20th century, the classic cassock came back into fashion.
Presbyterians in Canada tend to follow the custom of the Church of Scotland, whereas Presbyterians in the United States typically wear an American Geneva gown over a sleeveless cassock or a non-cuffed gown over an Anglican or Roman style cassock. The AmericanGeneva gown is often supplied with a cuff sewn into the double-bell sleeve (this innovation is a remnant of the cassock sleeve that was formerly worn underneath).
As is the practice in the Anglican churches, cassocks may be worn by others who are not ministers. Ordained elders and deacons, as they serve as worship leaders, readers, and administer communion may also wear cassocks which tend to be black. Those worn by choirs and other worship leaders are usually coloured (for instance, The Shadyside Presbyterian Church (U.S.A.) choir is dressed in red cassocks under white surplices).
In Eastern Christianity there are two types of cassock: the Inner Cassock and the Outer Cassock or Rason. Monastics always wear a black cassock. There is no rule about colouration for non-monastic clergy, but black is the most common. Blue or grey are also seen frequently, while white is sometimes worn forPascha. In the Eastern Churches, cassocks are not dress for any lay ministry. Generally, one has to be blessed to wear a cassock usually in the case of exercising a clerical duty.
The termcassock can also refer to a loose-fitting, pullover, hip-length jacket worn by ordinary soldiers in the 17th century.[citation needed] A cassock has attachedsleeves and is open down the sides, similar to amandilion. Such garments are popularly recognized as the formal uniform of theMusketeers of the Guard inThe Three Musketeers – though this is suspect historically.
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{{cite book}}:ISBN / Date incompatibility (help)In the Roman Catholic version the 33 buttons are said to represent the years of Jesus's life; in the Anglican the 39 buttons are thought by some to represent the 39 Articles of Faith. The Ambrosian cassock has only five buttons, with a broad sash at the waist; the French cassock has buttons elegantly up the sleeves as in a modern lounge suit; Jesuits prefer a fly fastening and no buttons on show whatsoever.
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